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About Krush

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  • Location
    Neustadt Ontario
  • Biography
    Blacksmith and Farrier trained
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Industrial Forging/Technical/Troubleshooting Manager
  1. i find it strange that a fifty pound rated hammer would have an 86 pound head. i can see 10 or 12 pound difference but 36 pound seems to be way off but i did weigh it 2x to make sure it was correct. would be interesting to know what that big beaudry is. wonder if that was common with beaudry of if my hammer is just an odd duck!
  2. interesting, good to know!
  3. just pulled the ram out of my no 2 Beaudry hammer, degreased and tool dies out. The number beaudrys are rated to be a 50 pound hammer but when I weighed my ram it came in at 86lb! machine says no.2 on it but thought id weigh the ram and came in at higher than i expected. should have a real wallup when shes mounted and running.
  4. thank you basher, im working with a local hydraulic supply guy. he has built compactors and other hydraulic equipment and has been great as a resource in helping me figure out how to do what i want.
  5. thanks for the replies, it is taking time to be thorough and get it right the first time, gotta make sure i dont run to close to the kickout pressure for highstage psi on the pump or may have to explore the option of running the high psi unit with low volume, getting the right hydraulic motor for moving the mass will be key in this and i think the starting point. i want to make the powerhammer a 100lber ram with LG style linkages so if they run off a 3hp electric motor i have to figure out what will be an equivalent in hyd. motor roughly and then i will go even a little larger just for good measure. Plan is to have a 5hp electric motor running the 2 stage pump and run the hydraulic press along the spine of the hammer mast and a telescoping mast with adjustable gibs and a hydraulic cylinder for lifting and adjusting throw height of hammer. this way i will have an infinitely adjustable hammer similar to the DP hammers without a bottle jack or bolts to tighten and untighten and no treadle adjustments. just turn on main hammer walk to back of hammer and use valves to operate the press and walk to front use treadle valve to operate hammer and a valve on the side for simple raising the mast up and down via the cylinder. this is the goal anyway, i wont be happy with anything else if i dont achieve that. I want it to be a truly utilitarian tool lot of farmgineering going into it before i start. for sure appreciate the response, looking at it from different angles will give me the best perspective on how to solve the problem
  6. I am designing a little giant style hammer similar to the DP hammers that move up and down the mast. i plan on building mine on a mast that is mounted in a box with gibs to raise and lower the height of the entire mast on the fly using a hydraulic 2 stage pump with a 5 horse electric motor with a cylinder connected to the mast and main frame. i can use the pump system to lift and lower the ram assembly and will run a smallish hydraulic press of the back of the unit with everything built into one animal. i want to setup the hammers flywheel drive using a hydraulic gear motor. Ive seen it done on another site where the fellow used a 6 cubic inch motor running an eccentric shaft for an appalachian style hammer and ran the pump at 500 psi getting 300 bpm with an 85 pound hammer head. now that ive thoroughly confused all of you does anyone know if a 2 stage pump could do this? if its staying in the high volume (13gpm) stage which runs from 0 - 600 psi (the ones ive been looking at) and kick into high pressure stage anything over 600psi? Another question because i am not as proficient with hydraulic engineering as id like does anyone know what rpm, pressure or flow a 6 cubic inch gear pump motor would need to be for this application? theres alot of selection out there and i want to make sure i go with the right one. ive tried registering on the other site to contact the fellow who created the appalachian style unit but unfortunately to no avail. Please enlighten me if you know anything on the hydraulic motor and 2 stage pump. thanks!
  7. Thank you, completely done with a grinder, welder and hand files. no milling or lathing, no doubt that would have expedited some of the work and made it flashier but you can do nearly all of it with relatively basic tools. love that about the LIttle Giants.
  8. thank you for the responses, i ended up using the abrasive disc with skil saw method and then finished with a long mill file by hand upper and lower turned out very well. I've stripped the hammer right down to nothing over the winter and cleaned repaired and replaced everything top to bottom. just have to finish my lower die and shes ready to move some metal. I fabricated new pit-man, cross-head, toggle arms, spring retainer, Toggle links, gouged out and re-welded the hammer and welded up the ram ways on the hammer then ground down and shimmed main shaft and the ram guides over the winter. Its been really rewarding and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again for another hammer. lots of fun! attached are a bunch of pics before and after repair. thanks for checking it out. 25_Pound_rebuilt_little_giant.MOV
  9. i will have to look for that thread, im in mid western ontario but theres a guy next door with all the equipment to help me do the job too, it was a machine shop during WW2 where they made bomber airplane parts. thanks for the tip, will see what can be dug up.
  10. Torbjorn was kind enough to send me a bunch of dimensions on that hammer, I was and still am considering building a helve hammer and would build it as close to the abno as possible. the best designed helve style ive ever seen
  11. i measured and theres enough room to cut off the sides of the dovetails and get flat in relation to the ram slides but I agree that the cast iron may not be fond of being threaded and havig bolts pulling a plate down on top, probably call roger rice end of week
  12. Hi all, im in the middle of rebuilding an old little giant, original style that didnt have the replaceable sow block. Im making new toggle arms and dogbones as well as welding up and reworking the ram slides. problem im looking at is where the lower die sits. My hammer has old beads of weld laid down in there and they are cracked and lifting up i saw a good article on how to utilize a skil saw to get close and then just use blue and hand srape or dremel to resurface and get back to flat and level then shim it from there. im considering just taking off the top parts of the dovetail side and milling down until i get a flat surface right across the top and then get a block of 4140 for a cap and then bold it into the remainder of the the hammers original sow block (casting) then making dies that just bolt onto the top cap of the 4140. I worked on large presses and hammers in the past and that is how all of our tooling was put together and it held up and repeated blows and vibration and tonnage so Im confident it would work but im concerned about the depth of the casting on the original, does anyone know how deep it goes below where the die originally sits? my only concern is not having enough wall thickness and cracking the base, if thats a risk i will repair with known method of scraping and grinding. i prefer to bolt the dies in and i dont care for the die tapered keys but if thats the safest route for the hammer i will go that way. the pic is of the upper and lower dies before i got them out. the ram is ok but like i said the lower will need work, it was welded in there anyone have any experience or thoughts, words of wisdom
  13. i wonder if the wifey left him before or as a result of the rubber band fetish
  14. I have a 25 pound Canadian Giant arriving friday and refurbishing it over the winter. Anyone else know if the rebuild videos or books are available from a canadian supplier? Im happy to pay Roger Rice or Pieh Tools for either or but the shipping costs are silly. Just wonder if theres a supplier here who possible carries the video or book that I can avoid the prohibitive cost for shipping. I will go the expensive route if necessary but would rather not.
  15. thanks patrick i will see what i can dig up on that chart, i understand the velocity play a part in what can be done one the speed you try to move material also plays a role as there is material resistance when trying to move steel quickly like with a hammer or a standard press compared to a linkage drive press or a hydraulic press. my specific question was just in regards to build a homemade hammer. i wanted to understand if there is any value in building a heavier ram which if its a mechanical hammer will have more moving around in comparison to building a smaller ram head and ideal ram weight if i can get the same job done. If i can dig up the info from chambersberg i will see if an old contact of mine who was a hammer designer for AJAX hammers may be able to clarify. thank you interesting paper Judson thank you for posting it My last post is kind of incoherent! Im going to build my own hammer so want to ensure i maximize energy efficiency and lose as little through the anvil as possible. Im definitely going to look for the chambersberg info and see if one of my old contacts at AJAX can help me with any other outstanding questions i might have thereafter.