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About Krush

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  • Location
    Neustadt Ontario
  • Biography
    Blacksmith and Farrier trained
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Industrial Forging/Technical/Troubleshooting Manager
  1. its not the ram weight, did it run steadily if you push the foot treadle just enough to get it to run a little slower?
  2. I cant tell how heavy the ram is but doesnt look heavy enough to need more than the 1 hp I had a 60 pounder that ran fine with a 3/4 hp motor. if its the spring harmonics speed or spring stiffness needs to be looked at. Definitely increasing hp would stop the thermal trips but wont address the underlying issue if harmonics are an issue.
  3. if i could just dedicate about 14 hrs with no interruptions i think id be there but i can only get a bit working on it here and there right now. I guess being too busy in shop is a good problem to have
  4. so i have a 5 hp motor now with a 2.25 inch 3 5/8 belt drive on it to the jackshaft driven pulley diameter of 10.5 and the jackshaft driving pulley of 7 inches to the 19 inch flywheel. makes for a 7.36 gear reduction and 235 RPM on the hammer. if my math is correct then should be only 5 rpm under target speed. It will have to do. thanks for the information Artfist!
  5. thanks for the information Jason, i couldnt find out much about it from the info i found. will give it a try.
  6. just my .002 of a cent. i have an idea for a telescoping throat so throw height adjustments could be done on the fly when running just like how a high hoe has an extendable boom. similar to the Dave preston hammers but no bolts to tighten, just flick the switch up or down to adjust die clearances with a hydraulic cylinder or heavy linear actuator. it would make using hand tooling alot easier than stopping to adjust the pitman arm. im going to build that into the one that i am going to build one day
  7. ok i will answer what i can here, try to size your hammer head by the largest weight anvil you can get. a laminated anvil will work but one solid mass will work better and try to get 10 to 1 minimum ratio or higher. if you dont you will have all kinds of energy flying around with the ram and the energy would be lost if you have an anvil that doesnt size up. check this link, a counterweighted flywheel wether a tire clutch or not is one option but this link will show an old patent which would give single hits and negate the requirement of a counterweight on the flywheel for the ram by using a heavy spring to always pull the ram back up and serving the same function as a counterweight, you could use a heavy spring and tire clutch setup. also notice in the picture that the Pitman arm on my industrial helve hammer has 2 pieces of 3/4 by 1.5 inch flat bar that has a bow in it, the bow is not to pass material through the pitman arm but acts like a spring and takes alot of the shock instead of transmitting that resonant energy into the frame or eccentric setup. Also the hammer has 36 individual springs sideby side 1 inch wide and a little less than a quarter inch in thickness. The Rusty appalachian hammers ive used in the past only had 3 or 4 wide flat springs. I had the springs fail and launch the broken parts out and nearly hit someone in the head. The many springs together are like a bundle of wood and will flex and take more stress than a few thick ones. This is a significant difference. It makes for a little more cost but service and safety of the hammer would be improved. check out the following link and you will see a pretty good video of how an industrial unit works. I might build a nice 50 pounder in a year or so but need to get this one up and humming before starting the next project. also here is a nice little read on the hammers laying out specs. the rusty is the same thing just doesnt use the drifting slack belt from wheel to the other as a clutch. one other thing, make the frame solid as you can, or you will get yawning in the frame when the hammer hits, if you use too light a wall tubing and dont reinforce it well enough there will be too much flex and you will lose energy that should go into your workpiece or brake with time the machine will tear itself apart. sorry for long winded reply but those are the things i see alot of and its a shame when a lot of effort, time and money goes into building a machine with the best of intentions but if the few things mentioned are over looked the machine performance will not be as good as it could be. ajax hammer.pdf
  8. if you message my account i can forward some pics and extra info to make your hammer perform. ive had homemade helves and worked on industrial ones. im rebuilding an old federhammer now which the appalachian hamers are based on. there are a few basic design features that will make your hammer perform significantly better. how heavy a ram will you make it?
  9. and that is the information that i needed! thank you
  10. Dreams do come true..

    finally got it dirty, chimney draws very well. Reminds me of being in school 20 years ago. Anyone in the Hanover area of midwestern ontario welcome to stop by anytime!
  11. Hello all, finally got my hands on a rebuilt GE 5 hp 1730 rpm motor for the hammer. I have to build the treadle system from scratch. from all the federhammers ive seen they run the belt on the outside flywheel which is always spinning and then with the treadle it drifts over to the right flywheel and slowly starts the hammer. For my setup I think im going to do it differently, im going to run a jackshaft and slack belt setup so I have the kinetic energy to start the hammer quick and build a brake for the main flywheel to stop the hammer similar to the bradley compact strap hammers that ive seen. I already made a 6 inch idler pulley which will also serve as a counterweight for the treadle, the flywheel is 19" and weighs roughly 60 pounds. i know the machine is supposed to run at 240 BPM. ive rebuilt the LGs in the past and figured out the sizing of pulleys and all that. However I kind of hit a road bump figuring out how to size the jackshaft setup. the motor has a 4" pulley on it and i would like the jackshaft pulley that drives the hammer to be large enough to have the kinetic energy to start it quickly as well as being big enough to provide good contact when pushing the treadle down. Let me know if you have an equation for figuring out the jackshaft pulley setup. The only things that will not change are the motor speed of 1730 RPM and the hammers flywheel pulley of 19" running at 240 RPM. everything else can be changed also anybody ever used P20 material for hammer dies? Industrial forging environment i came from never used the stuff, always H13 and W360. the fellow i got the hammer from had the dies professionally made but he was from a stamping background. Im a little concerned the material will not handle the temperatures and cant find any information on its ability to handle high temp exposure. Ive picked shrapnel out of my stomach before when large press dies were setup incorrectly and dont want to use the P20 unless i have more information on it. Thank you Gents
  12. She will definitely get a liberal rub down with Grease before each use. Really fascinating to see how they were built. The design approach could be used in the home built hammers and make them safer and run better. The spring pack is made up of 36 flat springs 1.5” wide side by side and many stacked instead of 3 or 4 large wide thicker ones which will not flex as much and fatigue faster increasing odds of breaking. I thought the bow in the jackshaft was simply to pass material through but found some old documentation that was actually to reduce shock on the bearings and eccentric which makes sense. thanks again all for your help
  13. Thank you Gergely, much appreciated. Here are some pics of mine. The Sow block being Wrought was severely impacted and beat to heck so i spun the block 180 degrees to take advantage of the less chipped out area where the die would sit. i dont have a big enough mill or want to pay someone to do the work so i made a bolster cap similar to what I used to have in the hot forging shop working with presses and Hammers that we had. i milled a block to slide in the dovetail that fit just right, ground everything flat as i could with hand grinder using blue and a straight edge which took forever. Then made the table out of 1/2 inch plate thats 22 wide and 16 deep. the table is bolted with rod to the base (all the rods do is keep the plate and die plate assembly down on the sow block. they do not take and compression. on top of the table i have a 1" mild steel plate that is big enough to distribute the pounding across a larger surface of the sow block compared to the old one and the holes are drilled and ready for a 1/2 inch plate the dies will be welded to. With this setup i can service anything that may wear or break moving forward in future. The same system worked well in the Japanese factories i worked in for years so im not concerned it wont hold up. Surprisingly good amount of rebound even though its just mild steel for the sow block table. Have to make a foot treadle and and idler and mount a motor then should be ready to go
  14. Good info, I appreciate it. Now gonna hunt one down.
  15. Unfortunately I don’t have 3 phase but do have the 220