Jim Coke

Greetings JT, I have a few and use them for various operations at the forge. They are real handy when you want to hold stock for a hard brushing or a quick tweak. The movable jaw is very usefull for holding tapers and odd shapes. I think a reproduction upsetting block is still available from a firm that makes small swage blocks.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Mike, Glad to see you back on IFI. If that anvil could talk I'm sure it would have quite a tale to tell.. Seems like I saw one just like it on CL for 1000... LOL .. I hope things are going well for you and family, The forge is always open if you find yourself in the north country.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Littleblacksmith, You are a very skilled young smith and I think the reason some of the older smiths offer you comments is that we see your potential. Just my 2c.. I do not see why the speed of drawing out a bar is so important. I encourage my students to work slower and more detailed first. Looking at your finished parts you started with square bar and the scroll portion on one stayed square and the other transistioned into round. What's the rush? Quality first quantity last.. I only wish you lived closer to spend some time in my shop. I'm sure I would learn a thing or two from you. Keep up the great work . Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Bryson, The one is an industrial production foot operated hydraulic vise. These were used for production work where the operator needed both hands to work on the part. Neet stuff great find.. Have fun with your new toys. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings X, That would be a steering shaf from I would guess a piece of farm equipment. I don't think it is automtive because the pinion would have been in a lube atmosphere. Nope not stainless. I would spark test it for some idea of carbon content. More than likely lower content carbon. I hope this helps. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Dickb, For starters you could just cut a 3/8 plate and cover the whole wall. The coal will hold it in or just add a few screws. I don't think I would attempt to weld that old cast. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Reynolds, I think you should give more consideration to your design it is way to top heavy and lacks enough footprint to keep it stable. Just this ol boys 2c who has made a bunch of candle holders. A few others will chime in with opinions. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Farmall, If cutting and cleaning the threads does not work well I would cut it flush and drill and tap for a new stud. Easy fix. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings, I wish Sheila well with her surgery. I will put her on my prayer list. ( love the shirt ) Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings 58ER, Last night I was talking to my friend Dave about his new press build and he told me he is selling his power hammer to a MABA member . As mentioned above by others your new hammer should be positioned a few free steps from your forge taking into consideration your anvil position to the forge. I have my shops set up so I can look out the big door when forging at the anvil and the power hammers .. Best advise is to start at the forge and do a trial run in your head to determine your hammer and anvil position. Good luck .. you will do well. Oh tell Dave ya know me from IFI.. I'm sure he will have lots of story's about me. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Reynolds, I make mine from one piece of 1/2 inch stock with no interruptions or welds and only one rivet. Just 7 hours to make free hand. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Just a style of penny scrolls.. Yes the ends are tapered long and thin than rolled up for the volume.. I learned that years ago from Peter Ross

Greetings David, Either will work just fine . It won't get that hot to cause any danger. Slick project it will serve you well. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Reynolds, I make mine from one piece of 1/2 inch stock with no interruptions or welds and only one rivet. Just 7 hours to make free hand. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Nodebt, You could put it over the edge of a flat weld table clamp it down and heat just a small area with a rose bud a little at a time bending back to flat. Just a thought. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Bad Creek, Life is short but good friends are remembered forever.. Sorry for your loss. Carry on and forge in his memory. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Reynolds, Just a thought. Some jigs were designed to start the scroll than drive the flat stock into the inside of the jig form . It would take a full heat to do so. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Reynolds, The best way I have found in the past when using scrolling jigs is to form the eye and than use two bending forks to ease it along the jig. I guess I am old school I form all my scrolls free hand. After about 3 or 4 hundred you don't have to use the jig. My friend finished a job last year with more than 2000 scrolls most free hand. I made him a trophy and crowned him king of the penny scrolls.. Keep on working you will get it. An afterthought... If you cool the end that locks into the scroll form it will hold better and not deform.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Michael, You might look at chemistry tools. I have seen similar tools for lifting beakers and test tubes. Just a thought. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Arkham, It looks like you have built yourself a very slick set up that will serve you well. You might check into the blower orientation and lubrication of the gears. Some blowers have a level of oil indicators or proper lube. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Michael, Yes arc or tig weld the grove. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Eli, That's a slick set up. I would love to volunteer in a shop like that. I have a line shaft shop that I have been working on for years but nothing like that. A few pictures and notice the post drills ... Your a lucky man... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Eli, I have several post drills . I put one up in my shop years ago so young students could safely drill a hole in the hooks they just forged for the first time. The only problem is that after I show the new young blacksmiths how to set it up and properly use it I turn around and Guess where their fathers are.. yep drilling holes . I use them all the time for various operations. No need to reset pulleys or chuck speed just crank slower. Have fun. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Michael, Looks to me that you have enough stock on the high part to forge it round and twist to the correct orention. Another trick that I have used is a thin shallow saw cut , twist to correct than weld the cut and reforge and grind. Ahh ... been there ... done that.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Kevin, You might consider just using a router to drop the anvil just an inch. The set down into the anvil pattern works exceptionally well and you will only need a small bracket for a hold down. I have several that I have done this way. forge on and make beautiful things Jim

Greetings Windancer, I have many spring swages and what most require is a pre-form to control the squish factor. I'm also with LB on this one "why" a leaf is not hard to duplicate several of the same. Maybe a picture of your swage would clear it up. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim