Vises

Hi everyone, I thought I'd start a new thread for this after mentioning it in my post asking about old vise forging techniques. I've started making a small vise out of 20mm square bar. Its proportions are based loosely on common post vise proportions but instead of the leg, it will attach to a clamp system to clamp it to a bench as a portable filing vise. The two arms of the vise are roughly 150mm high and the jaws are 75mm wide. Here's the two pieces layed out. If you look really close you can see the centre punch marks in the soapstone lines. I started with the moving jaw side and upset the end for splitting. I forged back to thickness in one d…

Im restoring an old leg vice i found in my grandmothers shed in Scotland, no idea how old,she didn't know it existed, my guess would be early 20th century. The leaf spring that separates the jaws still works, but only to about halfway open at which point it no longer wants to expand and just sits there. Could it have been designed this way or is it just old and no longer as springy as it was? If it is old how could i "respring" it so it expands fully? Thanks

I found a Wilton vise at yard sale for $5 ... it's an undercounter mount woodworkers vise I believe. All parts there and in very good shape ... but the vice will not screw open/shut. I can push/pull the vise open/closed. Took it apart and as you will see in the photos the acme type threaded rod goes into a large "nut" that is threaded on one side only internally ... there is a fat pin that is held in place with a spring clip - it does not move at this time ... I've soaked it in WD-40. I am guessing that the fat pin somehow holds the "nut" (is it really a follower or block?) to one side thus allowing the device to move open/closed. This "nut" remains within the bracket…

Hey. I have a vice that has no clear branding. I have been told that it is a Colombian from the seller, but I don’t see a confirmation. the stationary jaw has the date 1912 on the outside, and on the inside is a 4 (but it’s jaw is 4 3/4”) the underside of the mounting plate has a 2 with a “ below it. That is all I really know, photos for more. Few pieces aren’t in the full photo but they shouldn’t help?

Hello. I have a small post vice that I have started to restore. I really have two, that I bought for $75 each. Anyways. One is missing a mounting plate, but has a spring. Can I get any suggestions on making a mounting plate? The hardware like the retainer and the wedge are things I know how to do, but the plate itself is what confuses me. Thanks.

Seen in the little town of Gaming, Österreich:

Has anyone made one? I am not a blacksmith, but I am always in need of having a vice available in different parts of the yard. I have a post vice/ leg vice, that I want to be able to beat on occasionally. I was thinking of mounting it on a wood shipping pallet ( approx. 4 ft x 4 foot) which would have skids underneath, so that I can drag it around the yard. I realize that it will not be anchored firmly into the ground and that depending on what I am doing, it might want to 'spin' a bit. But I can try to deal with that if it becomes a problem. does anyone have any ideas on how I can mount this beast so that it can be moved from one spot to another without too much di…

Show me your vise and how it is set up.

Hi everyone, One of my long-term plans (unless I come across an absolute steal of a deal) is to forge my own leg vise. I have seen some of the other DIY leg vise threads on here and I'm inspired. In the short term, I'm hoping to attempt a very scaled down version with a clamp assembly in place of the leg, to use as a portable filing/small assembly vise. My question is, does anyone know, historically, how the jaw shapes were formed? To me it looks like they could have been either: 1. upset, drawn out into a "T" and bent over, at minimum with a striker, if not using a steam hammer or similar. 2. Split at the end to make a "T" (possibly still a …

Happy Monday, Ive recently acquired an Iron City vice, and I have noticed that the spring is very strong. Winding and unwinding is hard, and not fast. I believe that it is the original spring. What is the best course of action? Thanks all, Asa

I'm not big on Chinese products, especially tools. However, I've kept this one around because it has a feature I occasionally find very handy... the jaws will swivel 360 degrees. It's a little older, and a little better quality than your typical Chinese stuff. I also like it because it was free!

What are y’all’s thoughts? I haven’t seen it yet, I know to look at the screw and other parts. It’s 100 bucks and close by. Might be able to argue them down on price.

Just wondering how old this leg vise is.

I guess I'd better put this in the vise topic and quit taking up space in the "what did you do in the shop" topic. It all started off with a need for a suitable post vise. I'd been looking and what I've found is a Vise that needs to be melted down for scrap will run about $300 because it's rusty. So, I decided to build one. I figure that if a man could build one 100 years ago, I can build one today. I have a chunk of square stock that I decided to start with. It has been a learning experience to say the very least. I have one jaw well on it's way. and #2 is catching up quickly. But requires many heats, and many upsets, and many flattenings, to get the jaw wi…

I recent got my first post vise and I have no idea how old it is or who might have made it. I've been trying to learn as much as I can about it but, I'm finding out that a lot of different people/companies made them and never put any identifying marks on them. I thought it would be worth a shot to ask here. It looks (to my untrained eye) to be hand forged so that makes me wonder if it was made around the mid to late 19th century. I also wonder if the screw and screw box might not be the original parts. I wonder about the screw box because the "duck tail" looking part on the back of each jaw looks like someone with skill made them but, the screw box looks like it…

I'm in the process of restoring an old leg vice, and I've discovered some deep cracks and rifts in the metal underneath a thick layer of rust. The entire vice seems to have been hand forged at least 50 years ago, and some of the cracks are in between layers of steel that weren't completely welded together during the manufacturing process. Others seem to have formed from heavy use throughout the life of the vice. I was wondering if any of the cracks would require welding before I reassemble the vise post-restoration. Attached are some pictures of cracks I've found. I'll post more as I uncover them and remove their rust.

I was wondering if someone here could help me with info (age, manufacturer, specifications) of this large vise. It has 11 inch jaws and weighs at least 400lbs. The scale I used only went up to 400lbs. Appears to be much heavier.

I bought this vise for $50 just because I have never seen on and it swivels 360 deg. Markings on it say it was made by M&P Tool MFG. Co., Saginaw Mich. It works great but would like to know a little more history. Any help would be great. Thanks

So I recently bought an old post vice and the handle is wrought I can tell by the banding in the cracks that are splitting across the grain my question is should I replace the handle or just use it until it breaks the cracks started as minor marks but now are a decent size maybe a 1/8 inch deep

I thought I'd post some pictures of this, maybe someone can use the idea. Mark-B set me up with this monster old Chas. Parker vise. (Thanks again, Mark!) It has tall jaws with recesses built in for accepting vee-jaws for gripping round stock. I used this void to make a fixture for holding the carving block steady whilst making animal heads. It seems like I always waste the first few seconds of fresh heat fumbling to get the carving block in the right place to tighten the vise. I like using 2 x 3 inch angle iron to make the carving block, so I can get 2 different attack angles to the work. That's why the block has two different bushings, one for each side. Being pinned in…

Does the weight have anything to do with the quality of the vice. I believe I read somewhere about some imports beeing light for the jaw width and these were cheaper. I see significant changes in weight amongst vises with the same width jaws. My 5.5 inch weights 67 pounds but have seen 5.5 inch vises advertised up to 90 pounds or so. I've located an 8 Inch vice but it weighs in around 190 pounds and a 7" vise that weighs 175 pounds. This seemed light to me. Anyhow, the hunt for tools is part of the fun. Scott

I picked up a couple of leg post vices today (yes I know I’m a slow learner). One (4”) has a couple of parts missing and the other (6”) is complete but seized. Have tried a bit of heat but not coming free so have left it soaking with a penetrant. Will leave it soaking for a while and then give it another go with a big hammer. Any magic places to hit to free the thread (or not hit)?. Also whichis the better size for hobby use - the 4” or 6” and which one for a piece of garden art? Cheers Allan Perth, Western Australia.

Seems newer and better built than most post vices I encounter. The mini anvil on the back was a nice touch too. No point to this, just cool to look at.

Recall that I purchased a fairly decent 3" post vise for $12 recently. In the intervening weeks, I have put it into working condition. I tore it down, soaked it in WD40, then wire brushed all the loose rust off. I then applied a coat of boiled linseed oil. Gave it a very nice brown patina. The threads were in good shape but the thrust washers on either side of the screwset were missing. Forged two thrust washers from rusty, pitted 1/4" hex and it almost looks original. My regret is that I cannot find a 5/8" bolt, nut and washers made with a black oxide finish. All I could find was a gaudy cadmium plated set and it sticks out like a sore thumb. Anyone know where I …

This has a nice screw but is missing the spring. I have some ability in the shop and might be able to make the spring. At least will give it a shot. Anyone here done that and have tips or tricks? Spent $100 because the screw was nice and handle isn’t bent. Still has some crosshatching texture on the face of the jaws. if I can’t make it work, it will look good with my others.