Kevin Olson

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About Kevin Olson

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Minneapolis Minnesota USA (Brooklyn Park)
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, playing drums, making salsa
    I'm a painter/bodyman/mechanic in a autobody shop.

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  1. Forge on it. Then decide what to do with it. You have a real anvil. Not perfect, but more then some of us have.
  2. I am going to assume that where the rust appears now was already rusty before you started to work on it. Maybe not bad enough to really see but it was there. To stop rust(oxidation) you have to 1.remove oxygen or 2. Remove moisture. In your case I think what happened was with the copper blasting was not aggressive enough to actually remove metal to get to the bottom of the rust pits and remove the rust. And your sander only smoothed off the top not removing those pits. Those little pits still have rust in them and absorb moisture and oxygen. When you then coat the surface with penetrol it might block further oxygen and moisture from getting to the surface but does not remove the the moisture and oxygen in those tiny rust pits and they keep oxidizing even though they are sealed from the elements. In the body shop industry the only way to fix rust is to replace the rusty metal. The next best "fix" is to aggressively grind the area to remove all those tiny rust pits. 40 grit on a grinder. 80 grit on an orbital is not aggressive enough. And those pits can go more than half way through the metal. I work in a body shop and to really get those out takes alot of careful attention(magnifing glasses and a good light) to get all the pits. Now you have to remove those aggressive grinder marks(alot of work) to get it to look like the un rusted areas. Then apply the top coat for protection. Then on the other hand. If the metal was perfect, you have you be faster between sanding and top coating.
  3. Hey Gergely. Can you tell how you made the medals. They look like something i could pedal at the renaissance festival here.
  4. I've messed around with some cast iron in the forge and it crumbled kinda like that. But a cast iron hammer. That doesnt seem right. Should be much to brittle for a hammer.
  5. Wow. 3 feet of mass under the striking surface. Yup. That will work just fine.
  6. Glen was very popular back in the day. In fact, he sold more records in 1968 then the Beatles! He will be missed :-(
  7. Read through the anvil section. Lots if ideas for anvils.
  8. It gives off hydrogen gas
  9. Glad everyone is ok. Help comes to those who believe. Hey Das, whats up with those extensions on the frame horns. I've never seen those before. And wheres the impact bar? Never saw one totally gone. Weird looking hit.
  10. Im wondering if you could post a pic of the bottom?
  11. I have to hand it to you thats a cool hand. I would like to see a tutorial on how to forge one. That would be handy
  12. A cheap ASO now has a purpose. Im going to start looking for one.
  13. I like glens idea. I haven't gotten extreme with unmounting my anvil but have used her beautiful curves to form stuff although I do get into some interesting positions to do it. Lol.
  14. Wash off the WD. Its not good for long storage. Others will chime in on formulas for oil treating it. I use lite house hold oil from ace hardware store in a 6 once jug
  15. He's a central minnesota blacksmith and metalworker with 2 employee's and his wife. Sells a good butchers block brush. I'm glad I bought one.