Repairing and Modification to Anvils

I just received a Hay Budden 200 pound anvil. I appears the horn has been beaten down over the years. I am wondering if it is worth the trouble to try and straighten it or leave it alone. It was made in 1893

I want to mount my 110 lb anvil on a steel stand. I was wondering why I dont see people taping 4 threaded bolt holes into bottom of the anvils and bolt them to the stand. Just asking before I do something possibly stupid.

Hello, I came across four freebies I couldn't pass up from an injection molding process. I was looking for some ideas on heat treatment. Two slabs are. 3x11x29 weight is about 275lbs each and two slabs that are 4.25x22x29 and weight is about 800lbs. The material is 420 stainless steel. Im looking to use the 800lbs slabs. Any thoughts on how I can heat treat the top few inches? I have kaowool (4ft wide roll) and a few 55 gallon drums. My initial thoughts were to hang it from an engine lift 2 feet off the ground with the face of the anvil pointed down. Then build a makeshift forge around the bottom 10 inches of the slab using some 1/8th 316 p…

So uh this is my first time posting since we heard the news about frosty (may he rest in peace) so it is going to be weird not having him tell me how stupid and not worth the time it is but we all must move on so I know this is an extremely stupid idea but I had the insane thought of using all the scrap steel I have and attempting to weld together it all (I am currently going to a trade school for welding and have for a little over a year so I do have the skills for this since it is just sticking pieces of metal together) and then making a large full anvil i know this is insane but I think it might be something I am insane enough to find fun especially considering I…

Feel free if to tell me if I'm thinking too hard: This is my one and only anvil, a 1938 vintage 80 lb Vulcan. My paternal grandfather owned it, dad held on to it for sentimental reasons, and when the smithing bug bit me, it became mine. Tons of sentimental value to me as well, I'll never part with it. Grandpa never did any smithing to our knowledge, so us descendants don't know why he bought it. It was pitted/worn when I got it, and of course my use added more. I know that Vulcans are cast iron bodies with a welded steel face plate, so there's not a lot that can be done in terms of machining a flat face to it. I don't have access to a Bridgeport nor any mil…

https://www.facebook.com/share/1D6Sr2818Q/ Hi, I am looking to purchase this anvil, I have some concerns over the top plate, would anybody have any comments regarding condition or things to look at if if I view? Thanks

Good evening everyone. I have just acquired this 133lb Peter Wright anvil out of an old auto shop that used to be an old blacksmith shop. The mechanic I bought it off of just retired from the shop after being there over 30 years and when he left he was gifted the anvil since he used it for all those years for driveshaft yokes and bearing removal. Needless to say he miss used it for all those years and took a large chunk off of the anvil. This is my 3rd anvil so I don't really need it other than owning a part of history. I am just curious what the groups thoughts are, should I leave it as is or try and repair it. From What I have found in my research is this anvil wa…

Hi, my name is Wagn. And I'm from Denmark. I recently got this forged anvil, and I would love to know what era it's approximately from and what country. My own guess is British and early 1900 but I have absolutely no clue. The only markings is 256 stamped in the foot under the horn. I'm a fabricator and welder, so I'm pretty confident in welding those horrible scars, made by an angle grinder. I think I'll get some esab OK weartrode 55 (84.58). But would you guys "open" the scars up? And how would you heat the anvil up to 200°C (ish) I think it's can spot a crack on the underside of the horn, but it could be a bad hammerstroke from when it was fo…

Hello, my name is Brenda Holman. I am the daughter of Jim Holman and friend of Junior Stracil. My brother in law is looking for someone to repair forged steel on an anvil. Please contact me via PM for Tim Smith email address or myself. Brenda Holman

All- i have an anvil in need of repair. Before people jump on me about need for the repair or my abilities to execute this kind of welding, please know I've done this on numerous occasions in the past and I'm well aware of when and when not to do this kind of work. In this case, the anvil in question is definitely in need of repair. My go-to rod for hard facing has been a Hobart product-Hardalloy 58, which was recommended by them years ago specifically for this application. However, I can no longer find this rod. It is a self hardening rod that does not crack or cross check provided the layers thickness is limited to 2 passes. It appears to be similar to tool steel grade …

Anybody else resorted to this solution?

I bought this anvil a couple of years ago to try the tapered heel to see if liked it. I do like having the tapered heel but I wasn't happy with the overall performance. It had good rebound and the ring was nearly deafening. My son got a chunk of steel where he works and and milled it to fit in the cavity between the feet. I welded it in then welded it to a piece of 1 inch steel plate. I still have nearly 100 percent rebound, the ring is gone, and I'm happy with the performance. It now weighs about 185 pounds.

I recently acquired an Acme anvil and some has painted it a horrible blue. I have not found anything that will take the paint off. I have tried Aircraft Remover and gasoline. I'm Tempted to put in my blast cabinet and send blast it but I'm not sure this is a good idea. any advise would d be greatly appreciated.

Hello all, For starters, this would not be my first anvil or only anvil. I am also aware of the different schools of thought pertaining to repairing anvils via welding. It is for sale local to me and I’ve thought about picking it up specifically to have a go at repairing one. I’d like to gauge the forum’s opinion. The heel is the most pressing concern, but i would also want to address the sway. I prefer to work on a flat face. I’ve read up (briefly) on Rob Gunters anvil repair process. I’m wondering if this is a good candidate? How would you address the sway? For me, not being able to address it would be a deal breaker. thanks!!

I'm new here have been a farrier for 30 years. Retired too young but still enjoy working hot metal. While I have spent a ton of time working iron I am still amazed at the abilities of a smith. Anyway all that aside for now, when I changed states I sold a couple of anvils and kept two. One a future 3 anvil that is portable for farrier work. The other is the face and horn of an anvil that was given to me by my father in law. The latter I would like to make int a shop anvil and wondering if anyone here might have an idea of how to replace the base. I have thrown around the idea of milling the bottom flat then drill and tapping for studs, then either a stacked st…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zziSro6yEvw&ab_channel=AnvilRepairs https://www.youtube.com/@anvilrepairs

Before anyone asks "why"?? The answer is just because I can and like building things. I want a 300lb anvil for my heavy work. I have read and seen many homemade anvils but I have yet to see one done as I'm thinking, and I'm not sure why! I have a full machine shop, so my idea is to take block of solid tool steel, run out my anvil design on the shaper and mill, then send it out for heat treating. Most I've seen are welded up chunks, or mild steel with hardfacing, or steel with a tool top arc welded on. Machining one from solid seems like the simplest way and the only way to get the performance of a quality manufactured anvil. Is there a reason this …

Hi, Hope this is the right place. I am writing to try and figure out what I have and what would be the best way to preserve/restore this anvil. This anvil belonged to my old lady's father and i want to do it Justice (if possible) by cleaning it up and identifying it. He was an artist in NYC back in the day and from my understanding he used it to make carving chisels and various tools for his sculpture. The mrs remebers cranking his forge by hand when she was 6 or 7 yrs old ( 60ish years ago shhhh). I cleaned the paint off it and soaked in vinegar then rinsed with water. Have a wire brush in the angle grinder for the surface rust. That's as far as I ha…

I am just starting out and in the process of building an anvil. I am using a chunk of steel that was a counter weight off a cherry picker. I know mild steel can't be hardened but I was thinking about using 9018 welding rod to face the top to make it tougher. Anybody think this would work or have a better idea?

Greetings from Massachusetts, USA. I've got a line on an American Star 220lb anvil. Rough shape. Faceplate is chewed up. Weird cut or slice horizontally, running the length of the horn. $350.00 Would you buy it? What is the likelihood of repairing it? Fully intend to use it. Thanks for any advice. Mike

I have a colonial anvil but it is somewhat damaged. I would like to make the top surface flat, fix the edges and make the horn point... how do I do it?

Recently acquired (first!!) anvil, 106lbs. I'm thinking its from maybe 1780-1830s. The swayback in the face is ~1/5 inch; I know some is common especially with older anvils but is this depth something to worry about?

Acciaio anvils have some really large hardie and "prichel" holes. Worked on making this one a little more user friendly. I did lay blocks of ice on the face while welding. Cool idea for a broach Shainarue.