Sean Duffy Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 I recently acquired an Acme anvil and some has painted it a horrible blue. I have not found anything that will take the paint off. I have tried Aircraft Remover and gasoline. I'm Tempted to put in my blast cabinet and send blast it but I'm not sure this is a good idea. any advise would d be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 A wire wheel on a 4" grinder will do it. Don't use the knotted wire wheel, it will take metal off with the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeJustice Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Make sure that you use PPE. Those spinning, high-speed wires that separate from the hub can penetrate your skin and eyes! Ouch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stash Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Well, you have the blast cabinet. I would be tempted to use something that won't etch the metal of the anvil- walnut shells or glass beads, or..... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Duffy Posted September 27, 2022 Author Share Posted September 27, 2022 I thought about about Walnut shells but wasn't sure it would be OK. If it wouldn't hurt anything it would be a lot faster and more fun to use the blast cabinet than the wire wheel. If the experts here think that the blast cabinet is fine I'll change out to walnut shells and go for it. If I go with walnut shells what grit would you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 On a side note, I think paint that pre dates the 70s can sometimes contain lead in it so I’d feel more comfortable with it in the cabinet then on the work bench with a grinder if ya have that setup, can’t be to carful ya never know!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Yes, lead paint can certainly be an issue. A chemical stripper (I like Strypeez) allows you to remove the paint without lead dust getting into the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Duffy Posted September 27, 2022 Author Share Posted September 27, 2022 A chemical stripper didn't even touch it. just made the paint dull. My blast cabinet has a fan and a catch bag with a filter that should catch all the fine paint particles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 Paint it a color you like, protects from rust, just don't paint the face. Of course someone may have painted it to hide flaws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frf Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Try soaking in an electrolysis tub setup that reverses rust. On 9/27/2022 at 3:34 PM, Irondragon Forge ClayWorks said: Paint it a color you like, protects from rust, just don't paint the face. Of course someone may have painted it to hide flaws. Paint on an anvil results in constant burning paint fumes in your face. Use boiled linseed oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 Just a point about paint stripper, it works better when the surface is scratched up by around 80-150grit. It needs to reach the surface to get under the paint to be affective on quality paint. Also it works better kept wet as in after coating, wrap it in a plastic bag to keep it from evaporating and to keep it tight to the surface for a while. Have had many times where it needs a few attempts to get the job done. Newer paint stripper is less effective than the older stuff because of chemical and VOC laws. Same with paint gun cleaner. Lots of auto body techs are displeased with the changes. Even happened with some buffing compounds years ago. No reason why a sand blast wouldn't work. I would wire wheel after to smooth out the surface. Then coat with your preferred rust preventative. I like a quality matte clearcoat on everything but the face and top and end of the horn. Then oil or wax the rest as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 14 hours ago, Frf said: Paint on an anvil results in constant burning paint fumes in your face. Not if you do not paint the face working surfaces. BLO on the working services (face) will also give you fumes. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frf Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 2 hours ago, Irondragon Forge ClayWorks said: Not if you do not paint the face working surfaces. BLO on the working services (face) will also give you fumes. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Boiled linseed oil fumes (after it is dry) aren’t toxic like burning paint fumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Must be magic then to get burning paint fumes from a surface that has no paint on it. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 20 hours ago, Daswulf said: Newer paint stripper is less effective than the older stuff Same with brake cleaner. Used to be made with trichlorethylene, now is just basically nail polish remover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 The old ATF stripped paint like nobody's business. We'd get a butt chewing if we checked or topped the ATF level without a shop rag under the dipstick or can. A drop on paint and in a couple seconds you can just pinch it off to bare metal. FRF If you're really concerned about paint smoke use paint that can't smoke. Header paint is sold at any auto supply. Building a coal fire puts more B A D smoke in your lungs than could conceivably come off an anvil even if you painted the face with Krylon. I'm not giving you grief for being cautious but it isn't nearly as bad as you seem to think. My go to anvil is finished with Alex Bealer recipe bees wax metal finish and doesn't smoke when I'm forging over the edge on it's side. I've never seen the side of a painted anvil smoke but I've never seen someone using a freshly painted one so . . . Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frf Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 18 hours ago, Irondragon Forge ClayWorks said: Must be magic then to get burning paint fumes from a surface that has no paint on it. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus All the surfaces of an anvil are working surfaces/swages to the initiated. As well as noxious fumes, Paint can also add a shrill pitch to the ring of an anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 Have it your way. Frosty the retired safety officer for S.C. Alaska, DOT. What's an OSHA, something to eat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike BR Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 I probably shouldn't jump into this, but hardware store "boiled" linseed oil contains driers -- metal salts that catalyze polymerization. These remain toxic even after the product has hardened. You can get true boiled linseed oil, without the driers, as a specialty product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frf Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 7 hours ago, Mike BR said: I probably shouldn't jump into this, but hardware store "boiled" linseed oil contains driers -- metal salts that catalyze polymerization. These remain toxic even after the product has hardened. You can get true boiled linseed oil, without the driers, as a specialty product. Yes, usually cobalt salts. Not like the lead, cadmium, and zinc in paint fumes. The things in spray paint, you don’t want to breathe in. https://www.krylon.ca/document/SDS/en/724504015796_SDS_English.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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