Itsnick

I have a 25 ton h frame press built using the plans found in Jim batson’s book build your own forging press. I’ve been thinking recently, if I were to buy a set of dies commonly made for an Ironworker or punch press, any reason I couldn’t also make them work in my forging press? Things are so much easier to do when the work isn’t hot. If I can punch plate cold (within the tonnage limitation of my press) it would save a ton of time either drilling or heating the piece. thoughts comments concerns appreciated! -nick

Frosty, I rarely used the step on my old London pattern so I wouldn’t know to miss it. I’m sure a simple hardy block could work just the same. I find the addition of a tapered heel and side shelf to be well worth the loss. I don’t know where you call home, but if you happen to be close by (Maryland) you’re welcome to come take it for a spin. -Nick

George, a fine suggestion. However, I usually make my hardy tools from larger stock under the press anyway. Rarely do I weld a shank to something so it really doesn’t bother me that much. But I agree, it would be a pig of a job.

It’s just under 1”. I say that because 1” square hot rolled will not fit from the factory… but JUST barely not. A couple minutes at the grinder is all it would take. My hardy tools from my previous anvil fit with just a little slop. All hardies are slightly different in my experience so I kind of expected that. I use it every day, it’s held up just fine so far with the exception of one errant hammer blow hitting on the corner at an angle (corner of hammer hitting corner of anvil…Brent Bailey hammer, not sure what he hardens them to). Left a nice little dent which looked like the start of a chip (I could catch my nail on it). A few seconds with the angle grinder got it out of there no worse for wear. Hurt though, like getting a scratch on a new car… I haven’t rounded the edges much yet as I’m still figuring out where I’d like different radiuses to be. I basically just took the sharp edge off everything. Possible this exacerbated the situation. The horn is perfectly conical and as it happens almost exactly the same size as my holland anvil hardy mandrel. It’s not overly sharp, the smallest it gets is maybe 3/4”. I’ll probably make a hardy tool for more intricate things. the indent in the casting on the far side (side with shelf) is kind of annoying the infrequent times I use the side of the anvil. I’ve learned to work around it. upsetting block works as intended. May require some clean up, it has the same sand casted finish as the rest of the anvil aside the face. I’m not worried about it. Overall, happy with the purchase and look forward to many years use out of the thing. -Nick

My thought was that little angled spot at the transition just gives me yet another shape to work steel into if I so choose. Much of this craft breaks down to different shapes, the more you have at your disposal the better.

Yes, it is more or less in the same plane. I don’t find it to be an issue at all. Here’s a couple more pictures.

I decided to go ahead and purchase their 120kg model. I haven’t had it long, but in comparison to my old brooks I really like it. Rebound is excellent, seems plenty hard though I don’t have Rockwell files to check. Finishing is plenty good enough for me. It came milled smooth and flat. The only thing that will take some getting used to is the hardy hole location, as I am a lefty and prefer the horn to my left. I knew that going into it though, so no surprises or anything. It’s quiet, didn’t ring much on its own but I have it bedded in silicone so even less so now. All in all I’d say I agree, it’s as good or better than any anvil I’ve worked on.

Looking for the forums opinion. Not the opinion of the people selling them. It is surely biased.

I searched but could not find much info. Does anyone here have any experience with the Dtx brand name anvils sold through blacksmithsdepot? All I’ve been able to come up with is that they are made in China? sorry if this isn’t in the right location, I did not see a better suited sub forum. thanks

That’s a great idea. I think I’ll rebuild it out of some thicker stuff and paint it. Thanks!

I do have a cap, but being under just a roof as I am, there’s plenty of moisture that still gets to things. I keep my coal in covered storage. in my area, coal is FAR less expensive to buy than propane or coke. So much so that replacing my hood/chimney system every few years would still work out financially. I’ve read that even stainless class A chimney pipe would also suffer from burning coal as we do. To what extent I am unsure. Do you find this to be true? If it’s a battle between 50$ in corrugated pipe that lasts 2 years vs 1000$ in class A that lasts 10 it still works out in favor of replacing the cheap stuff more often. same problem with the hood. at this rate, if I build it out of 1/4” plate I’m only looking at it lasting 6-8 years. Will stainless fair better? if the stainless isn’t a permanent solution, it simply becomes a cost per year analysis at that point.

Hello, I noticed today my side draft hood and chimney have rotted out. It’s too bad, because they’re both only about 1 1/2 years old! My original plan was to replace with stainless, but I have some concerns. I’ve read in other forums that even stainless (316T being the preferred grade) don’t hold up particularly well to the acid from burning coal? 12” flue pipe is crazy expensive. I’d rather not spend the money if it won’t last. The other option I’m considering is building a new hood with much thicker plate. (the current one is 16 gauge) but even the 1/4” flat bar around the opening looks closer to 3/16 now…so I’m not sure how long that would last either. I was also considering using thicker walled pipe for the chimney (something like schedule 40) if I could source a piece reasonably. I’m starting to think I need to treat them both as consumables. Unfortunate because id love an option that’ll last more than a few years. what would you guys do? oh, here’s my set up. It’s under cover but only a lean to. Burning bituminous…Quality stuff. I do have a cap (simple U shape bent over the pipe and screwed in place) thanks!

Hello all, For starters, this would not be my first anvil or only anvil. I am also aware of the different schools of thought pertaining to repairing anvils via welding. It is for sale local to me and I’ve thought about picking it up specifically to have a go at repairing one. I’d like to gauge the forum’s opinion. The heel is the most pressing concern, but i would also want to address the sway. I prefer to work on a flat face. I’ve read up (briefly) on Rob Gunters anvil repair process. I’m wondering if this is a good candidate? How would you address the sway? For me, not being able to address it would be a deal breaker. thanks!!

We are one in the same. I’d rather be at the anvil than in front of the grinder any day. I too loath hand sanding and file work. However, I try to keep this hobby as self sustaining and possible and unfortunately clients just love a Damascus chefs knife. Until it rusts in their knife block since they refuse to dry it properly anyway.

Valid concerns for sure. Yes a good working fan and duct work to pull the dust out of the space would be a part of this for sure. I’m envious of the space some of you have. Unfortunately I have to make do. My shop doubles as storage space and I’d really enjoy not having not blow an inch of dust off the camping gear every time we want to use it. I thought about putting the grinder outside, as I have a lean-to structure off the side of my shop where I’ve situated my coal forge. Unfortunately, I’m in a pretty dense neighborhood and my grinder (home-built) is rather obnoxious. Then again, so is coal smoke and I’ve yet to have complaints. So maybe that’s a better option. I see guys like Alec Steele who have grinding rooms. They seem to make it work. He wears a full hood with respirator. Atleast in his videos. How do you guys control the mess? A bucket of water under the grinder seems to catch maybe half of it in my experience.