Thesterlingcrab

So I have an old hatchet head that has the back entirely mushroomed and then has a crack going all the way from the top of the eye to the bottom and this crack entirely parts the axe so it can bend open I am taking it to my trade school to fix it today as it is the last day we can actually weld I cannot get pictures at this time as I spoke to my high school resource officer the previous day and he agreed to keep it in his office until I go to tech before I brought it in i ground the edge down to a quarter inch thick so it won’t be considered a weapon My question is am I going to have to anneal the entire axe before weld this or should I heat it up then weld it while it is hot? I can always re harden the edge and what process do you think I should run? Or would it be best to braze it I could if necessary. -Ryder

I do have a tendency to create jobs for my self that are not necessary so you are very correct also to everyone who says I should have just JB welded it or something I do agree in hindsight but I was very excited to try out some large cast iron repairs as I have never done them before I will see how it turned out today when I get to my trade school so will update y’all! -Ryder

Thanks for the concern about the pulling out of flat but I am in no way shape or form concerned about that as it is solid 3/4 inch thick cast iron (hence why I am brazing and not welding it) since cast iron is such a stable material it will not pull or warp when heated this is why you can not weld cast iron it will not move with the contractions of the cooling metal and in turn builds up stress until it cracks

Thanks I have created an account and started to look for information and at some point when I get to it will post on there about it. Also on said drill press there is an old black coating of some kind covering the whole thing it is about a eighth inch thick and it is very flaky the best way I can describe it is that it is almost like compressed graphite from a pencil. while I am replying to this I figured might as well ask if you have any ideas on it.

So on my old drill press table there is a lot of holes drilled partially into it where oil likes to pool today when I get to my trade school I am filling all of the partially drilled holes with oxy-acetylene brazing I need to flatten the surface back down afterwards so my question is how flat should I get it should I go as far as to stone it or should I just file it down or hit it with a grinder? Will an oilstone even work with the patches of brass from the braze? Should I file it down ? Also should I put some kind of finish on it?, if so how and what kind? Sorry for all the random questions just figured it would be better to ask people who understand my stance on properly restoring it if I were to ask my welding instructors they would just tell me to hit it with a grinder and be done with it, but I want to do it properly soooo… This post is a prime example of when I let the ADHD take over lol -Ryder

I need help trying to find any type of information on my drill press I will supply pictures later today but it is a 15 inch line shaft driven floor standing drill press made for the Erie manufacturing co if anyone has any spare time and would be willing to look into it i would really appreciate it!!! -Ryder

Ah I forgot gotta tag y’all

Here she is the body of one completed I haven’t put the set screw in but I don’t think I will need to

The reason I put threads on them is because at first I had planned to just make this myself using what I had and for the 1/4 20 over 1/4 28 that was also because of what I had available but if I was to redo this I probably would just use a flat for a set screw

My one concern is that the threads on the aluminum inserts will get damaged as the threads themselves are also aluminum the center punch head and the hardened steel punch are going to be made out of an old hydraulic cylinder so I’m going to have to try and figure out what the best heat treatment is going to be for this steel

The inserts have a quarter twenty thread turned onto them that thread into the body and then the body has a set screw that will register against a flat spot I will file onto the threads in around an hour and a half I should be able to get the drawings and will upload them

I am currently having my one busy that goes to my trade school for machining (I go for welding) make me a cold working punch with interchangeable centers I designed the entire thing in CAD and made drawings for him (I will put the drawings in here later) i currently have a center punch with a sixty degree tip that I am going to harden and I have a I don’t know how to describe it it is almost a pin punch but they are half an inch in diameter I am having him make me one insert made of aluminum, one of brass, and one of steel that I am going to harden I am having him make me two of these as I plan to give one to my dad as a gift my question is does anybody have any other suggestions as to what inserts would be good to have?

So I have this VERY old 15 inch floor standing drill press it was originally run off of a steam driven line shaft but has since been converted to a massive 1/2 hp motor I am currently having the female Morse taper in the spindle re-reamed as it has taken a little abuse over the years i also have the original MT-2 chuck that came with the machine and the taper on it is VERY beat up I am wondering are the tapers themselves hardened? If not is there a reason they are not? If they are not I will probably tig weld the abused parts and have it re-turned down as I currently have the ability to have this done for free so why not? I know overall it would be best to just buy a new chuck but why give into consumerism if you give in on something that you know you can do and just buy something because it isn’t that expensive then that will lead into a spiral of doing this with more expensive things become self sufficient if you want to see the press look at my other posts one of them has it I have a lot more planned for this press but I am at school so I don’t have much time so yeah

Nice it reminds me of an old saw makers anvil with that nice wide face I am assuming it is not hardened then correct? Update everyone!!! I just had a thought I wanted to run by and see what everyone thought about it i currently just have a little probably 45lbs anvil I made last year made from a section of railroad track it does not have a hardy hole I have around like 2 yards of railroad track left and I just had the thought of using a chunk of the railroad track as almost like the core of the welded anvil obviously I would still have a lot of beads to run but If I used that as the base in combination with just welding random pieces of scrap steel what is everyone’s thoughts on this i plan on having the anvil in the end be around like probably 100 lbs i would love to be able to get it up to like 140 or even 200 lbs but I’m not sure how reasonable that is

I mean 7018 does have around .3 percent nickel so lol but if I’m going to go that way I am going to buy some either mig wire with a higher nickel content or some 8018-C1 electrodes which contain around 2 to 2.5 percent nickel