Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Kandar

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I noticed this happening with my burners before. You can actually smell the propane dumping out of the forge if i drop a choke slide wide open. I ended up using a much larger gas jet. Im using 0.035s with an unmodified bore. I only run at 4 to 6psi usually with the step nozzle pulled back to 1 1/4. It gets hot faster than ever before and more importantly the burner is no longer fussy. It just runs well. As long as i can optionally eliminate any dragons breath on command im happy.
  2. Well that did it. They run through the full range from green to dark blue Just had to relocate the choke screw. Silly that i learned that before but failed to apply it. I feel like the mixing quality was slightly better with the choke slipped around the other direction. Ill make another air intake body and increase the distance from the bottom of the air intake slot to the start of the reducer and see how it goes when i can. They run great right now. Ill get them in the forge and test the heat soon. Pics at 10psi on the .023 tips bored .004 over thank you both
  3. I wonder if it is turbulent air because of the distance between the bottom of the air slots and the beginning of the reducer.. Also i haven't seen any but has anyone tried lightly rifling the mixing tube in the correct direction?
  4. That actually does help. Thanks. I previously made a set of burners that had to be configured that way and it made a difference. I totally forgot! Thanks for the reminder. More tests to run. /runs off excited!
  5. I tinkered with it a bit this weekend. I oversized the 0.023s using my torch tip cleaners without oblonging it. Made a step nozzle using a 1 inch sch.40 ring and a piece of 1 1/4 sch.40. The burner runs from super rich to oxidizing inside or out of the forge at any pressure from 3 to 30. Random pic but i know that the cone is 2 inches past the end of the mixing tube in this pic. I was trying to get the choke to open up. With any type of step flare or a flare made from 1in sch.40 that is longer than 1.5 inch. i cannot get it to really roar. My choke mus
  6. Ill have some time to tinker with it this weekend. I have some 0.023s an plenty of torch tip file sets so ill see how that goes. I have the new jets setup with the 1/8 nipple threaded for mig tips. They need a little more clean up and run a polish on the ports. Works for engines. Why not burners! Ill be pulling them out to try some flare adjustment. I will get some pics of the flames and different nozzle options. I found a perfect 12 degree mandrel in the scrap yard that is 3 inches wide at the base. Makes nice flares easily. Thanks for any assistance.
  7. Interesting. Iv read through this thread. I remember most of the important stuff. Since i started reading it from page one i also started making some burners. I went through a few different designs and have one that works well now. So thank you to the peeps of this thread. Downside is that the latest burners are not really where i want them just yet and i have a few questions. I made two of these. Sorta looks like a hybridburner t-rex style. I used 3/4inch mixing tube. 1 1/4 schedule40 for the air intakes that i forge reduced to mate with the 3/4. forged the noz
  8. Yeah the big forge would have been great but I did not build a forge for the anvil prior to that point. Just used a really good fire. It actually turned dark blue sitting next to it. Thats it before i cut the horn off and welded a whole new rail on top of it. Turns out it was for the best. Being two rails thick and having the whole center webbing area full of steel makes a very solid anvil compared to what it was prior. Beyond the point of this pic i made a forge to heat treat it in. The fire was good though. All cherry.
  9. My Railroad track anvil. It was a learning experience and i went through a lot of mistakes learning to work with the steel. It taught me a ton. It was quenched and tempered twice to straw and the horn and heel to dark blue or a little above. This was v1.0. All was good. But something happenend on the day that i was heat treating it. After the quench was done it looked great but i literally had to run and didnt have time to temper. It imploded on itself. The horn cracked. Wife put a bandaid on it.. and then i cut it off.. So for 5 bucks at the scrap yard i got a
  • Create New...