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I Forge Iron


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  1. Kandar

    Burners 101

    I noticed this happening with my burners before. You can actually smell the propane dumping out of the forge if i drop a choke slide wide open. I ended up using a much larger gas jet. Im using 0.035s with an unmodified bore. I only run at 4 to 6psi usually with the step nozzle pulled back to 1 1/4. It gets hot faster than ever before and more importantly the burner is no longer fussy. It just runs well. As long as i can optionally eliminate any dragons breath on command im happy.
  2. Kandar

    Burners 101

    Well that did it. They run through the full range from green to dark blue Just had to relocate the choke screw. Silly that i learned that before but failed to apply it. I feel like the mixing quality was slightly better with the choke slipped around the other direction. Ill make another air intake body and increase the distance from the bottom of the air intake slot to the start of the reducer and see how it goes when i can. They run great right now. Ill get them in the forge and test the heat soon. Pics at 10psi on the .023 tips bored .004 over thank you both mikey and frankenburner for your assistance.
  3. Kandar

    Burners 101

    I wonder if it is turbulent air because of the distance between the bottom of the air slots and the beginning of the reducer.. Also i haven't seen any but has anyone tried lightly rifling the mixing tube in the correct direction?
  4. Kandar

    Burners 101

    That actually does help. Thanks. I previously made a set of burners that had to be configured that way and it made a difference. I totally forgot! Thanks for the reminder. More tests to run. /runs off excited!
  5. Kandar

    Burners 101

    I tinkered with it a bit this weekend. I oversized the 0.023s using my torch tip cleaners without oblonging it. Made a step nozzle using a 1 inch sch.40 ring and a piece of 1 1/4 sch.40. The burner runs from super rich to oxidizing inside or out of the forge at any pressure from 3 to 30. Random pic but i know that the cone is 2 inches past the end of the mixing tube in this pic. I was trying to get the choke to open up. With any type of step flare or a flare made from 1in sch.40 that is longer than 1.5 inch. i cannot get it to really roar. My choke must remain 90+ percent closed. There is less heat and it feels a little short on gas. Running the step nozzle at shorter lengths didn't seem to work. I ran it at 1/4inch intervals starting at 2 and worked downward to 1 inch. All had the same effect. Nice flame and fully adjustable... but quiet and my choke was only 10% open. This could be good or bad. So far almost nothing beats that ward coupling that i ground out into a flare. It turns into a screamer. I will do some experiments with it and see if i can figure something out. Because i was having no luck and every nozzle seemed to work the same (except the short non-step ones) i made a big flare for fun. Same effect with the choke.
  6. Kandar

    Burners 101

    Ill have some time to tinker with it this weekend. I have some 0.023s an plenty of torch tip file sets so ill see how that goes. I have the new jets setup with the 1/8 nipple threaded for mig tips. They need a little more clean up and run a polish on the ports. Works for engines. Why not burners! Ill be pulling them out to try some flare adjustment. I will get some pics of the flames and different nozzle options. I found a perfect 12 degree mandrel in the scrap yard that is 3 inches wide at the base. Makes nice flares easily. Thanks for any assistance.
  7. Kandar

    Burners 101

    Interesting. Iv read through this thread. I remember most of the important stuff. Since i started reading it from page one i also started making some burners. I went through a few different designs and have one that works well now. So thank you to the peeps of this thread. Downside is that the latest burners are not really where i want them just yet and i have a few questions. I made two of these. Sorta looks like a hybridburner t-rex style. I used 3/4inch mixing tube. 1 1/4 schedule40 for the air intakes that i forge reduced to mate with the 3/4. forged the nozzle from 1 inch pipe and made it 12 degrees then welded a 3/4 npt weld-o-let which is about 1.5" OD to the back of the 1 1/4 pipe air intake In the last pic here the ports were not done yet. The air intakes are 2 inch long and about 11/16s wide. The jet size is currently a 0.030. Id like to see it be able to do 0.035 tips before im done with them. Currently the gas jet is 1/4 copper pipe with a brazed in 0.030. Iv got some schedule 80 1/8th nipples and 1.5 long tapered tweco tips on the way in both 0.030 and 0.035. They will be nicer and threaded. The current jets are filed down to a nice taper for testing. They run anywhere between 2 and 30psi. Just depends how hot the flare gets. They also melt face. But i need them to hit an oxidizing atmosphere a little harder with the 0.030 jet so that i can move to a 0.035 I learned quite a bit working on these burners but still have questions that someone may be able to help with. The state of these burners in my forge isnt bad. With the air choke wide open i have almost no flame coming out of the forge. Just a few inches of yellow tips on a 0.030 tip and it is even throughout the gas pressure range. Other than that they make stuff yellow. Pyrometer sows up tomorrow. One thing i noticed is the burner flare. These run in or out of the forge just fine but i was tuning it out of the forge and noticed that sliding the nozzle up and down the pipe had about the same effect as sliding the choke up and down and that this burner is very picky about burner nozzle specs. So i used a grinder and ground out a ward coupling to 12 degrees and it worked very well. Suddenly i had a functional burner. So i cut the burner tube threads off which left my 3/4 mixing tube at 6.5 long and started forging flares from 1 inch pipe to test. These burners do not work at all with a coupling or thread protector on the end which is what i tried first. Currently they are set at only 1 inch beyond the end of the pipe @ 12 degrees of flare. As i slide it outward the flame dies down and the flame peaks around 1 inch out and then gets worse as it gets shorter. Iv tried step flares using 1 1/4 as well with a similar result. Any ideas about this burner flare? Could its adjustment get me what i need? Once its final ill make them from stainless steel. Or is it the port shapes and how they are beveled? Perhaps too many ports or just too big?
  8. Yeah the big forge would have been great but I did not build a forge for the anvil prior to that point. Just used a really good fire. It actually turned dark blue sitting next to it. Thats it before i cut the horn off and welded a whole new rail on top of it. Turns out it was for the best. Being two rails thick and having the whole center webbing area full of steel makes a very solid anvil compared to what it was prior. Beyond the point of this pic i made a forge to heat treat it in. The fire was good though. All cherry.
  9. My Railroad track anvil. It was a learning experience and i went through a lot of mistakes learning to work with the steel. It taught me a ton. It was quenched and tempered twice to straw and the horn and heel to dark blue or a little above. This was v1.0. All was good. But something happenend on the day that i was heat treating it. After the quench was done it looked great but i literally had to run and didnt have time to temper. It imploded on itself. The horn cracked. Wife put a bandaid on it.. and then i cut it off.. So for 5 bucks at the scrap yard i got another piece $$ torched the top off of the new rail. Popped the drift through it and shaped / normalized then welded it (full weld all the way through) to the old one. I Heated it again and ran the drift through the hardy after the welding was done and annealed the whole thing. After that it was just some grinding on the welds to level it out. i grabbed some big rods and filled in between the two lower supports. Cleaned it up a bit and tossed it in a makeshift forge i made out of some 18x18 stones and two 1 inch forge burners that seem to work really well. Didn't take long to make it 1500+ degrees and had to be careful not to overheat.. quenched and temper to straw twice on the grill. I wrapped it in a foil envelope on the bottom to even the grill heat out. The straw coloring was uniform so i was ok with it. Then i tempered the horn farther to lower the risk of cracking it off. Happy i did it this way. I learned so much. Id never recommend going this route though.
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