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Found 23 results

  1. Hey all! I bought this old rust bucket coal forge. I believe the term I’ve seen used is “rivet forge”. Zero make/model marks, that I can find. Tore the whole thing apart, replaced the pump handle, drive belt, and all the nuts n bolts. Three of the blades were busted off the blower fan, so I fabbed up some new ones, and attached them to the existing fan. Sprayed all the parts with a high temp, rust resistant paint, and reassembled the whole thing, only to have it NOT PUMP, SPIN, OR BLOW AIR!!!! Please help. The belt is nice n tight, the handle has room to maneuver, and the new fan blades fit inside the blower housing....what’ve I done wrong?? Also, there are extra holes in the pan. Any idea what those would be for? TIA, - Kagé
  2. Hey y'all! This is my first official post on the site, thanks for having me! Just yesterday I bought my first anvil from a guy on Craigslist, I got it for $180 so it was a good deal in my opinion, despite the damage to it. As far as I know it's a Hay Budden, probably around 125lb (it weighs about 100lb without the heel.) there's an indication of a hardened steel plate welded to what I assume is a wrought iron base. The heel is missing, and I can't seem to find a serial number anywhere, so I would really appreciate any help identifying this beauty. Considering this is my first anvil, and I'm a newbie blacksmith at best, I don't plan on trying to repair this anvil any time in the near future. I know how you all feel about taking a grinder to an anvil face, so I won't ask, however there is a considerable amount of chipping on the face, and with a missing hardy hole, I can't easily make a striking plate either. In the eventual possibility that I need a more refined edge for forging, what repairs should I consider making? Any and all help is greatly appreciated! Edit: Also it appears this gal got rusted up pretty bad, and someone tried to paint over it. I don't want to risk ruining a patina that's older than I am, so I'm wondering if removing the rust and paint is worth doing, or if it's best to just leave it be. Thanks!
  3. Howdy smiths, I saw this posted locally for $65. I know very little about bellows except that they are big collectors items and usually sell for alot. Some nut job made this one into a table, and even though I wouldn't use it if I bought it I'd probably try to resell it. Does this look like something that I could make money on in its current state? Should I buy? Thanks
  4. The man who owned this forge died in the 1980s he used it before electrucity came to oklahoma in 1937 he inherited it from his father it was the main forge in the dibble/Blanchard Washington region for a long time how long I'm not sure. Any ideas of the origin before that or how to restore it?
  5. I'm looking for some help identifying this forge I recently picked up. Instead of a hand crank, it uses a lever/pump action to move the blower. It's definitely been repaired on top at some point over the years as it looks like the pan probably rusted through. Everything else is in original shape and works great, although the legs are pretty wobbly at this point. Should I restore them and make it usable again or leave it as-is and sell it to someone who needs a decoration? The hand crank mechanism works, ie. it blows a bit of air, but it's a lot more work than turning a hand powered version, even one without a flywheel. Just seems very over complicated and inefficient, which is why I'm wondering if it's not somehow "special." I can't find any identifying marks anywhere except for a 526 and 527 on either side of the tuyere. I hadn't ever seen anything like it and figured it had to be worth something!
  6. Hi guys, I bought recently antique bellows on an auction near Brisbane. Because this was apparently passed trough for the 3rd time when i went to that auction. This amazing piece was calling me contstantly and therefore i couldn't resist to make an offer. I will find a nice place in my house for it. But there is a but. The tag that was with it, said that those bellows was used in one of the movies of The pirates of the Caribbean. Cool that was a plus. So i am watching the movies now :-) Could someone give me more information about this amazing very heavy and very large piece or artwork? Mayby time period, origin, and name of the parts. I know it measures 230cm long and 96cm wide. The nossle is 53cm long. Looking forward for some more information Rudy
  7. I am freshly out of the USMC. 12.5 years and 100% VA disabled. My dad was a farrier/blacksmith for 30+ years and I wanted to learn the art. I use his forge when I visit, but I live 500 miles away. To get started, I bought an old stand forge and wanted to get it up and running. It was in disrepair, but I've got the blower moving and bought a new ashgate and tuyere grate. It had a small crack in the pot on the edge, which I will weld. I am pretty resourceful, so I can rig a belt. In pictures of similar forges, I have seen, there is an additional piece to attach the lever. I have seen how to rig it to work without that piece, but I would still like to find one to complete the forge. there are 4 bolts in the side that appear to have been to hold a wind/heat shield. I can make one from tin, but I would much rather at least be able to see what it is supposed to look like. I am very new to the community and know very little as it pertains to antique forges. Any and all information, from you seasoned guys, about this forge will assist me in learning and will hopefully help me narrow my search for parts. I would like to know things as simple as what this style forge is called. Also, I was wondering about lining/insulating the bottom of the forge. Fire brick would be too thick. I was thinking some type of clay or mortar. How were they originally insulated? the first photo is a similar forge with a complete handle/lever assembly. I am missing the metal piece between the bracket and the wood. The following 3 photos are the forge I bought. once again, any and all information on this forge would be extremely helpful.
  8. I live on a farm house and the barn next to me is full of old equipment. The main thing that caught my eye was the belt grinder. The entire thing is rusted. Keep in mind I know next to nothing about these things. I would absolutely need to rewire it and clean it up thoroughly but I'm wondering if it is doable for someone who has no experience. hopefully this imgur link works. if anyone can give me more info on this thing I'd appreciate it https://imgur.com/gallery/KvwwR
  9. Hey there fellas just picked up this gem this weekend. I saw a Soderfers and John Brooks anvil but I liked this one better but I've got no idea what anvil maker branding is it. It says 2 1 4 which is 256lbs Im guessing it's a John Brooks. I know it's not a Peter Wright or Soderfers Cheers
  10. I work at a forge which has a collection of old farrier tools, , masons tools, and assorted old tools, as well as a bunch of old wrought iron bars removed from a fence that's about 75 or 100 years old, I made a few fire strikers from some of the old farrier rasps. The teeth on these rasps are not all in nice precise alignment like a modern rasp so my guess is they were hand made. I heat treated to non magnetic and quenched in water. They do not generate sparks when struck with a sharp flint. I have made dozens of similar strikers using 1095 and/or modern farrier rasps and never had a problem, I ran a couple of tests. I made quarter inch notches on either side of a two inch wide rasp and then fully hardened it. I tried breaking it on the anvil with no success so I put it in a vice and tried to break it using a four pound hammer, I could not break it, It was not at all brittle, just behaved like a well tempered spring. Most of these will harden well, but rarely will any of them generate sparks. Does anyone know what they might be made of ? Thanks PS I have used mystery metal occasionally and get consistent results. Almost always bad. .
  11. I recently came across an anvil at a local antique store that I frequent. I understand that prices can range from $0.25 - $3 or more per pound, so want to know if this is a decent deal. I cannot find any markings on this particular piece, but they may be hidden underneath layers of repaint. It feels roughly 50 lbs, maybe a little more. Below are a few photos, but what's a good price on this item? Thanks!
  12. We have an OLD American Scale Company Vise that we can't find anywhere for the year and worth. It has 8" Jaws and opens 14", pictures attached. Any information you can provide would be great. Thumbs.db
  13. I recently acquired the following anvil and was hoping that this community could help me get some more information about it. What I know about it: It was recovered from a farm in Bourges, France (about 3 hours south of Paris). It was part of a larger set of wood working and metal working tools and benches dating from the mid 18th to mid 19th century. There aren't any visible cracks in it. There aren't any visible repairs or welds. It has a date of "1825" and "PPR" engraved on the face along with a design. I don't know exactly how much it weighs yet but I'm thinking in the neighborhood of 300lbs. I can't find any other markings on it that would indicate origin or maker. I rubbed a little flour on the face so the markings are more visible in the pictures. Dimensions: 36" tip to tip of horns, main face is 6x14", height to main face is 9.5" #1: Where was it made (country, forge)? #2: Was the artwork on the side likely created by the maker or the owner? #3: What is the appropriate way to clean up an anvil of this age. Should I take a wire brush to it? Naval jelly? Should I just rub it down with linseed oil? #4: Is it appropriate to use an anvil of this age? #5: Any ideas as to the value? Apologies if some of my questions are covered in the forum elsewhere. I did a quick search and it seemed like it made sense to keep all of the questions together. I really appreciate all ideas and thoughts. Cheers, Mike
  14. I got this hammer off an auction website for $20 The face on it was a bit munted so today I set about making it a bit more useable and shiny. I am unfamiliar on what the peen on it would be used for though. Any ideas?
  15. Hi everyone i've been wanting for the last few years to start a little furniture making project, and at long last i've got all the materials and most of the tools and knowhow needed for it. Unfortunately however, i'm having a little trouble with one detail in particular since i've got almost no experience in cold chiselling thick iron or steel, and the chest i'd like to make would probably feature a lot of it. I'm just wondering if anyone knows of any hand tools aside from cold chisels that could allow me to produce this kind of pierced work with roughly 1.5-2mm thick corten/weathering steel? '> http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~s-mingei/cyoubako2.html Or, alternatively, if there's no other way aside from cold chiseling it, can anyone give me some pointers on the types i should look into getting before starting or any other useful tips? For anyone curious about the chests in the links, they're mid 1850's to 1900's traditional japanese safes, used by merchants but generally called ships chests, funa dansu or funa tansu, the first would sell for about $5000-$6000 and the second's closer to the 10-16k mark
  16. I recently found this vise and have been trying to find information about it online with no luck. It has the Pennsylvania Seal on it with 703 written inside. It also have a swivel base and is very heavy. I'd appreciate any information on it. I'm really interested in finding out about what year the vise is from. Thanks!!!
  17. Hey everyone, I hope your all doing well. I was digging through some of my stuff in storage when we moved it home and found something that I forgot I had. Its a forged "chopping" style blade. I found it when my Dad and I were looking for native arrow heads and stuff like that. Do any of you have an idea on the age of something like this? sorry the pictures are so big.