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I Forge Iron


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About Goods

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    South central Indiana, USA

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  1. Could it be used as the 1st layer? After 1” of #8 and 1/2” of refactory coating, it would drop a few hundred degrees, would it?
  2. As long as the blower is in good shape, I think you will be happy with it. I would forge a lever with a counter weight to replace the wooden one. Also, most of the shops I’ve been to have an electric blower mounted directly to the hand crank blower. I haven’t done it or looked at how they’ve rigged it up, yet. David
  3. You could take a piece of heavy angle iron and upset one leg. Then forge the extra mass over so it’s flat on the inside of the angle. Finally, file the step good and square. Clamp this up with you blank and the step should support your blank. Just make sure the step is wide enough for support and high enough to hold the blank where you need it. Of course, you could just hold it between you legs with a heavy set of locking pliers lock on just past the bit to let gravity help hold the blank vertical and work right at the anvils edge. (Selection cooling is very important with this approach i
  4. Muncie? My son graduated from the Indiana Academy last spring. I was up that way pretty often. When you said east central I was thinking along I70... Steve is definitely your stomping ground, and he would have better recommendations for you. (I am an hour south of Indy...)
  5. There are a few of us from Indiana on here. I’m south central myself... Not sure if you exact location, but see if you can catch up with the Fall Creek Blacksmith Shop satellite group of the IBA. Hammer-In aren’t happening right now, but at least you could lay some ground work. We have a pretty strong community here in Indiana.
  6. Don’t get to hung up on the water based finish on hammer handles. I’ve been using BLO and it has worked out fantastic. It’s a self hardening penetrating oil. Actually hardens the surface of the wood, and there are no VOCs to worry about. I’ve come to learn the BLO is very versatile around the shop. (Just don’t let a BLO soaked rag or paper towel around. It heat up as it polymerizes and can spontaneously combust. Just ask King Tut.)
  7. Tool steel drops at reduced prices? My local steel yard carries a wide variety of tool steel, but they sell it cut to size down to pretty small pieces. Their rack has what I would call drops on it, all at full price. (I haven’t seen any simple mid to high carbon stuff though. Plenty of alloy: 4140, 4340, A2, D2, O1, H13, etc.)
  8. How a about BOB (Best Of the Beasts)?
  9. If you want to keep all the original leather pieces in, and the tang is now to short, take the leather off, preheat the tang and weld on a mild steel extension with full penetration. Don’t forget to post heat and cool slowly. The reassembled and cold rivet it. David
  10. I’ve pulled stubborn “weed” trees by looping a strap around the base of the tree, tied a rope to the strap, and ran the rope to a tow hook on the car over a 4”x4” piece of scrap lumber braced against a temporary heavy stake at a 45degree angle. If it only pulled part way, I’d reset the lumber to 45degrees and go again. Worked pretty good. (Hope that description is clear...)
  11. Yes, Vernon. I don’t usually check the IBA site, it always seems a bit dated and I’m not on Facebook. David
  12. Well today was supposed to be our hammer in so I brought a scrapped out 36mm injection screw to throw into the “iron in the hat” pot, but when I got to the forge the sign on the door said hammer-ins are cancelled for November and December. Guess I didn’t get the news... On a positive note, one of the other smiths showed up also and he had a load of charged fire extinguishers to give out. Just what I’ve been worried about! Made the trip well worth it. David
  13. If you want to track down good blacksmith coal, try to hook up with your local ABAN affiliate. (I know there is a group the meets in Cincinnati. I’ve heard talk of meetings over there.) They can tell you were to find some good coal and when the whole COVID19 thing calms down, it’s always good to hang out with other smiths a pick their brains. David
  14. 50mm stock sounds like pretty big work on a 10kg anvil... Punching a hole on the anvil should go fine. Your punch shouldn’t have to go all the way through, and the slug itself will protect the anvil’s face. Drifting is another story. If you have good fitting tongs you can work on the edge of the anvil with the drift sitting against the side. (Better yet, if you stock it long enough, punch and drift before you cut it off. Much lower chance of flying glowing steel.) When I made my first axe, I used two 25x150x300mm plates bolted together with spacers. It wasn’t the best setup but it worke
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