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I Forge Iron

Goods

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About Goods

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    South central Indiana, USA

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  1. Can you set a small block beside you fire? That way you can take the work from the fire in just a few inches and set the weld. David
  2. Yes, Alexandr, I was joking also. (I’m assuming translation takes the fun out of some jokes.) David
  3. I guess that cold weather just keeps blowing round the globe... David
  4. Good idea Thomas. tjdaggett, I’ve been going to our hammer-ins for a few years now and they’ve changed a little in that time. When I first started going, we would have a semi-formal demo setup. The demonstrators would go through and explain all of the steps in making a particular item. Recently, it’s more of just come and hang out. Bring a project if you want to work on something, or get some help/direction on how to do a specific step. If there is a new smith there, everyone is keen on helping, and everyone is on the look out to correct dangerous actions. Of course our local cha
  5. Blackbear forge put out a video last night that show him doing a similar finial (two others also). It’s a little different that what you’re going for, but the technique should be similar. It may worth checking out. David
  6. Stunning as always! David
  7. Be careful with A2 for a struck tool. If I remember correctly, it’s an air hardening tools steel. Personally, I’ve wondered what the best way to deal with air hardening tool steels in this type or application. Hopefully, someone here with more experience with give some direction... David
  8. I would also recommend starting with mild steel for tongs. Jumping straight into forge tongs with spring steel adds a bit more difficulty. Spring steel is harder to move and you have to be more careful with heat control. (It will burn at lower temperature, then start cracking on you...) Looks good for your first set. David
  9. I’m not sure if this what you mean, but do not put a propane tank in an enclosed area like a 55 gallon drum, or enclosed cabinet. If you have even a minuscule leak, in such a small space it will get to explosive levels faster. You will also be less likely to smell the leak. Be safe, David
  10. When I’m finished with a part I’ll bring it up to a red heat and aggressively brush it with a butcher block brush and wire brush to get into the smaller details. I keep brushing till a low black heat a go straight to beeswax or BLO finish. Works pretty good on smaller pieces. For delicate or very detailed parts, this may not we much of an option though. May not be a option for large quantity runs either, where I would really want to stay in a rhythm... David
  11. Not in my shop, it’s still not done and everything is still packed away. But, I demonstrated at my local IBA chapter’s forge during a festival. Two long days of swinging the hammer, and I’m worn out. (Gotta get back in shape.) Here are pictures of some of the items made. Didn’t get pictures of everything. I hand no inventory and almost everything made by request or sold as soon as it hit the table. It was good to be back at it. I absolutely love demoing! (Maybe I just haven’t had a bad crowd yet...) David
  12. One thing I just thought of that may look good with scrolls like that could be to wrap it with 6 coils of 1/8” diameter wire. I have a huge amount of old tension garage door springs that would certainly be up for the task, but it would probably work best with a torch for heat. A torch, if I had one... David
  13. If you concerned about the strength of the rafters, use a long pipe to bridge several rafters. Of course if you can barrow an engine hoist that would work...
  14. My son is working on a satellite project that he started when he was 16yrs old, now at 18yrs old and a few scope changes they have a launch date of Jan 2023. He has at least an initial invitation to the launch and we’re hoping to be there with him. I’ve always wanted to see a launch, but I never expected my son, at his age to be the senior software engineer on a government satellite project, before he even graduates from college. (Sorry, proud father...) I hope we are close enough to feel it! David
  15. Paul, if you want the window to function again, track down a sash knife. They work wonderfully for freeing up windows that have been painted shut. Pretty easy to use, but you need to be careful about not cutting into the wood. I couldn’t find a good picture online, but if needed I can dig mine out a get a picture of it. David
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