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I Forge Iron

Goods

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    South central Indiana, USA

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  1. Are you rotating the axe blank after every few hit? This helps make up for any inconsistencies in the punch, how you hold the punch, and how you swing your hammer. Also, keep and even heat on the blank. David
  2. Can you provide a sketch of the final part and a picture of your current tooling? That may clear up a lot of questions. Also, what material are you using for the tooling? To me it looks like you are trying to do too much in one operation, but I’m not sure what the final part is meant to look like. David
  3. TW, sorry I missed your question before… In the manual it shows the max cutting size as 8”x8”. (I imagine it would take a very long time to get through a block that large!) I doubt this saw will handle that size. It has some wear that will have reduced it’s max. Maybe I’ll report back when I get it setup. Right now, I have much higher priority projects. David
  4. Gazz, what condition are the vise parts you have? The ratchet jaw on mine needs welded up and ground in, and the rack for the ratchet “rack” needs cleaned up. Probably just file work needed on the rack. I would be interested in hearing what all you have available. PM me if interested… Thanks, David
  5. Excellent buy TW! I was at our regional “mini-conference” for a while today and picked up a new toy: It needs clean up and the vise need some work, but it runs great and the price was really good! As a bonus, came with five née blades. (I’ve really got to get my shop setup moving…) David
  6. The scribes that I have made I didn’t temper at all. I want the point as hard as it will get. Yes, it’s brittle, but it’s a scribe not a center punch. (Also, I only hardened the last 1/4”. David
  7. My guess is a cistern cover. Very similar to the cover on one of mine: David
  8. Goods

    Press idea

    Ok, is that a cylinder with different mounting options than the original CAD model? (Just a bit confused…) That setup should hold up very well. Is your plan to just weld your frame together? If it were me, I’d put two 3/4” bolts through the top plate into the side frames and then weld all the way around. Again, I would recommend some stout 90 brackets on the end of you upper tooling plate to help keep in keeping it parallel. David
  9. Here’s my first feather: Made at a demo by request about 2.5 months ago. If I remember right, it was 1/2” round also… David
  10. At my old house, I never had any security concerns. I moved two block and now everything gets locked up tight. (Moved closer to the train tracks, and in old grand house that makes it look like we have money…) For my area, it’s all about location. Generally, my town has very low crime rates, just a lot of questionable foot traffic at my particular location… David
  11. Joe, when I saw you were in OH I thought to say stop by and go though my pile for what may be useful to you, but it looks like you much farther away that I initially thought. Either way, if you find yourself coming to my area, drop me a PM… I’ve go some good stuff lying around, that I may never get around to using. David
  12. MJ, when I first saw you CAD, I wanted to say this didn’t. I haven’t built my own press, but work in a big auto parts plant and I’m responsible for a large portion of the process equipment. I was hope others, like John who have build there own presses would jump in first… Here’s my two cents: You’re going to want that frame strong and rigid. You will also need thicker sections to hold the pin for the cylinder as John shows, at least 1/2”~3/4” thick. If it’s too thin it’ll mushroom and/or cut into the pin. The load bearing surface should probably be more the the cross sectional are of the pin. You’re going to want the pin/bolt to wear before anything else. Not hard to replace a pin if it not too worn, but do you really want to have to cut your weldment a part to fix a simple wear issue? As a side note, if you can put some type of floating coupling between the upper die holder and the cylinder and put a longer vertical guide on the sides riding in the frame to keep it square. It will save wear and tear on the cylinder rod and seals. (I really wouldn’t want a leaking rod seal on a forging press, and bend the rod and it’s done… ) As it’s drawn now, if you put your steel in off center, that’s going to put on heck of a bending moment on the rod. David
  13. Having a good carpenter’s hammer around the house can be quite useful. I’ve never found one the be particularly useful at the forge though, so I don’t collect them like I do other hammers. I have considered buying cheap ones (cost, not quality) to forge weld the claws together to make a handled punch or chisel, but my project list is already too long… David
  14. I was thinking the handle material from the pancake compressors may be strong enough for legs on such a small forge and would be a lot lighter than sucker rod. For portability, you could weld pipe unions to the forge and pipe nipples to the handle material and be able to quickly screw/unscrew the legs. Could even set three legs angle out with 1/4” rod bar hooked on the ends to brackets on the legs to prevent them splaying out. David
  15. Panel looks like most of the industrial panels I’ve dealt with and you even have a clear schematic on the door. I’d be a little curious about that wire nut hanging out though… David
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