Goods

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  1. I have to agree with ForgeDad on this one. We would use 8~12% material thickness per side depending on material type for trim steels and punches/die buttons with tighter clearance around sharp corners. It’s all a trade off on die roll, shear percentage, burr size and tool life. Always exception to the rules... Of course “fine blanking” is another ball game all together. 100% shear requirements, zero clearance between punch and die (which never enter...) everything made to micron tolerances. But I doubt any of us are going to be stamping out precision gears in our shops.
  2. How tall is that? It looks a lot taller that the power hammers I’ve been around... Looking forward to seeing how everything works out.
  3. Finally got the wrought iron hatchet finished (Sorry about the image size. If there is a good way to fix it from an old iPhone let me know) David
  4. Or cut it as planned use one piece like mentioned above and make the other into a striking anvil. Lots of options!
  5. I’m glad I got mine there last year!
  6. Congratulations Jennifer! You deserve it, you’re an inspiration to us all. I would love the opportunity to take classes from you when you training center is up and running. Unfortunately, I don’t see the happening. Time, distance, and all... Speaking of inspiration, I was able to light the forge tonight for a short while. (Cut it short when I remembered we are under a burn band!) I heat treated a small hatchet started two weeks ago. Wrought iron with 5160 bit and poll forge weld in/on. (Inspiration form Jennifer’s video of making a wrought iron hammer. I did say you were an inspiration right?) While I was getting the heat treat setup, also made some scrap. It was supposed to end up as a tomahawk of wrought iron with 5160 bit, but the wrought iron got the best of me and broke when I was making the bends for the face transition before wrapping the eye. I need so much more practice with this material! Hope to have a chance to get the the steelyard soon to buy more forgiving stock. I have a lot of work to get done before a two day demo in three weeks. Love seeing everyone’s work, David
  7. I’m looking at trying my hand at making a couple of tomahawks. I’m planning to use A36 with a 5160 bit. I was thinking about using 1/8” x 1” bar stock for the body, but now I’m afraid that may be too thin. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks! David
  8. I’m by no means an expert, but I wouldn’t worry about the drift being rectangular. Just make sure it has good radii at the corners. I personally prefer a more rectangular eye. It’s easier for me the fit the handle if I can just plane a rectangular tapper on the handle, then just round the corners. Enjoy, David
  9. Just a word of cation, you will much happier with a hardy hole setup that is a through hole. Many time hardies will jam in place and being able to drive them out is important. Also, you may find material building up in the blind hole could cause you trouble as well. Just my thoughts, David
  10. Let us know how it works out. Also, what are the depths you have on the setup? Surface to turye(sp?), surface to bottom brick? I’m considering reworking my own JABOD. It’s just not as easy to work with as the one at the “shop” I frequent. Enjoy, David
  11. For a first pair of tongs, those are outstanding! Can’t wait to see what you are making a year from now... Take Care, David
  12. Do you really want that much steel around the tureye? I’ve just been using a 3/4” black pipe without any additions is a side blast. The clay around it seems to take most of the heat, but to me, it seems like the cold air rushing through it keeps it from over heating. I would think adding more thermally conductive mass around it would only make matters worse, pulling heat away from the fire faster that the air can remove it. Are you thoughts off base here?
  13. Very nice job! Can you shear small stock in the jaw near the boss like you can with some pliers?
  14. I put a little oil in mine, but for some reason that didn’t do the job (maybe not enough). Then my son added a splash of acid. No mosquitos now, but quenched items do rust faster. (Not sure I’d really recommend this method...)
  15. Mark Aspry gave a demo at the IBA conference last year including punch making. I know he was using tool steel, I forget the type, but he would quench in water, moving the punch up and down vigorously. The last inch stayed submerged, while next half inch was moving in and out of the water to make a transition zone. He would the polish and let the colors run and repeat unit the heat was gone. He was also very insistent on heat treating punches.