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I Forge Iron

Goods

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About Goods

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    South central Indiana, USA

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  1. My experience with Ti was that is forged really easy at yellow, almost to easy, but when it dropped to red it was almost the same as hitting it cool. (I was afraid to take it above yellow! I really didn’t want it to burn! It my understanding that Ti will burn like magnesium... not sure if that correct.) David
  2. Billybones, dividers are one of the things on my project list. I’m jealous, they’re looking good! Here’s what I got done at the local IBA meetup. Not real happy with it. Was supposed to have a forge welded cutting edge, but after two failed weld attempts, I gave up. (At home I probably would have pushed through until it worked, but felt strange doing that with an audience...) I may also have to put some weld beads on the shank, apparently the anvil’s hardy hole at the shop is a bit smaller than both my anvils. Way to wobbly in mine! It was made from 2” round 1045 (originally hydraulic pre
  3. Use what you have to mount it down. It doesn’t need to be anything special, just so long as it pulls the anvil down tight. The tighter it is the lower the ring, which your ears and your neighbors will appreciate. Of course a good bed of cheap silicone caulk makes a dig difference in the ring also... I just used rr spikes in predrilled holes for mine. (It’s what I had and got me to work fast. It’s not going to be fun if I ever want to remove it from the stump though!) David
  4. Ok, so I have to ask, how location is local, Localsmith?
  5. Looks like a fair amount of rust on the fisher and that could interfere with the rebound. Clean the face up real good with a wire brush and test it again. If the result doesn’t change you not out anything but a few minutes of cleaning. Honestly, it should still work as well as an improvised anvil and if you can avoid dinging it up too badly, it should work harden over time... With today’s prices you did good! David
  6. For the cheap hair dryer, some of the cheap ones have a momentary push button for cold air. For the one I use on my JABOD forge ($10 at Wally Eorld), I just put a wire tie on the button and had constant cold air flow and no over heating. That will leave you with an extension cord thought... David
  7. Wirerabbit, a 3# hammer should draw the reigns out pretty quickly. What technique are you using to draw the reigns out? I usually use half face blows for most of my drawing out. That seems to work the fastest for me, but I’ll occasionally use the peen, or draw over the horn, or a combination. Honestly, I’d be proud to use those tong. Looking good. David
  8. I may have to do that myself, but I’ll have to use the hardy hole. I’m often using a hold down in the pritchel hole.
  9. Made a little more progress on a fire place set. These piece still need a lot of work and need to make the broom and stand. Anyone have any recommendations on what to use for the “brush” end of the broom? David
  10. You could alway PM Glen to buy some kast-o-lite in reasonable quantities from this site. Could get the ceramic blanket also to reduce the volume and up the insulation amount... I’ll probably do that if I ever get around to building a gas forge.
  11. Looks like you could cut that into thirds. Draw out the reigns more and still have stock for another project.
  12. I’m with you Steve! I wouldn’t even mind buying up some of the scrap... Honestly, just looking around an old shop would be fun!
  13. My next question was if it’s an attached garage... We’ve all heard the stories of families never waking up after someone got home late at night excited about something, left the car running in the attached garage, and flooded the house with CO... Dangerous stuff! David
  14. What is you indoor area and how much ventilation do you have in that space? David
  15. My neighbors have a huge old Ginkgo tree. I’ve spent a lot of time looking at the leaves for my project and there seems to be two variations on this one tree. The lower branches have leaves similar to what I forged (shown above). Small random splits long the outer edge. The upper branches have more of the leave type with a deep split in the outer edge with a ~1/16” radius at the bottom of the split. Also the leaves all sprout from a the end of the woody twigs in groups including the fruit. (I hope this description is understandable?) If there is interest, I’ll try to get pic
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