Laynne

I built a furnace by putting a 55 gallon barrel inside a 500 gallon tank and forcing air through the tank. This may not work for the chunks of wood you are talking about.

With Chesty Puller no doubt.

I didn't keep track but it was roughly 2 pounds of each rod.

Around the pritchel and hardy hole it was a half an inch and it tapers to 3/8 of an inch at the step. I did the initial grinding with a 4 1/2 grinder and finished with a 3 inch belt sander.

I recently repaired a mousehole anvil using the Gunter Schuler method, see "Repair or retirement" thread. It's not perfect or pretty but it's a good solid anvil. I'm not sorry I did it. I have enough rod left to do several more but, I won't be looking for any. It's a lot of work and can be frustrating. Be sure and use copper chill plates to contain the edges and keep the welds out of the pritchel and hardy hole.

It's not perfect but it's solid, weighed in at 160 pounds. 80 percent rebound across the face. My AC225 welder struggled with the Stoody 1105, would probably have been better with DC. Twenty hours, $100 of rod plus propane and abrasives. I'm happy with it.

After and before Gunter/Schuler. It's not perfect but it will replace the 148 pounder and see how it does. 80 percent rebound.

Thomas/Anvil, thank you for your input. I've become familiar with the Gunter/Schuler method over the last few days. I'm going to get the rod on order and do it. The face that remains is 80 to 85 rebound. Laynne

It's a mousehole stamped 163 pounds. I'm into it for about $80.

The first picture is of the standard coal/coke firepot that was my grandfather's. The second picture is what I have done to use charcoal in it. Two pieces of angle iron and two bricks. It performs as well and is as economical on fuel as the sideblasts I built. Charcoal does like a trench.

I picked up this file handle at the local junk store yesterday.

It's my experience that more air causes more sparking, for drawing out, bending, twisting, etc it's ok. When bringing the air up to reach welding heat is when things get interesting. I've not noticed any issues with creosote build up.

Hedge, Osage orange, Bois d'arc whatever you want to call it does burn hot and I have used it. Be sure you have PPE and a fire extinguisher handy because it will pop and scatter burning coals out of the forge. It's my main firewood so I don't use it for forging much. I would have to say I prefer pine charcoal.

Here's what I came up with. It's bottom blast using an inherited fire pot. I made the grate to raise the fire and used angle iron to form the trench. It took some experimenting to get the air flow right. I can go all day on less than five gallons of charcoal and still have the convenience of the ash dump. I was daydreaming and burned some half inch round in no time.

I made a wooden handle for my three pound Fiskars club hammer. They are fitted like a pick or mattock. I have used it for a couple of days with no issues. I am unable to attach an image. Hope the description makes sense. If anybody else is using one and are developing hot spots or blisters, it is possible. Laynne