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I Forge Iron

Jclick45

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About Jclick45

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hereford, AZ
  • Interests
    Metalwork, welding, blacksmithing, machining. Shooting, gunsmithing, motorcycles, diesel trucks, etc!

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  1. Charles are you just clamping these in a vice?
  2. Thanks for the great ideas! I am definitely tempted to make a big beast as I just always default to "bigger is better". However in this case i am trying to remember my purpose, small for small jobs. Frosty It is imperative for me to at least have a flat section, say 4-6" long. I think I will lightly mill a small flat, and leave the rest untouched. This is very old rail and is very hard and has great rebound on the original surface! ThomasPowers i did find a well worn and old piece which will require no more than 1/8th to flatten. Thinking of hinging the bottom of the rail/anv
  3. Thats a great thread, I have quite a bit of track i may do a "conventional " but definitely will be making use of an end anvil as you have!
  4. Hello all! Question for y'all about the best way to build a RR track anvil. I know these aren't the greatest, but I don't need the greatest, I have big anvils. I need a small one for small jobs. I plan on creating a double horn style. Here's my questions. I have a machine shop and can mill the track top and sides nicely square, but if I do that will I loose all the hardened surface? If I simply create a flat as wide or nearly as wide as the track itself I'd be loosing about 1/4" of material up top. Again, this won't be a heavy use anvil but I also don't want to loose what little re
  5. Agree, one of these days I hope to sink it in concrete so that it's flat, but still be able to pull the whole thing up if need be. Till then it'll bet sunk flush in the gravel of my work area.
  6. Well she's all done. After a good cleaning, a few little tweaks and adjustments and a good oiling the jaws line up very parallel and even. Just the slightest bit off. It functions very solidly and smoothly. I think she is a beautiful old girl, and she's ready to work now. After a good wire wheeling I can see clearly that the stamping says COL F&I CO. Thanks for all the input guys!
  7. Yes Thomas I'm with you there, I don't mean to do much to it, just flatten it out a bit. It rocks slightly anyway so it needs some base work. I may lay a little rod on it while its already preheated for the face finishing, just have to see how I feel after 5-10 lbs of 1105 have been burned! John M that is too funny tho, I never thought about the scale! You have a good point there!
  8. Lol I agree with you completely frosty, been welding and fabricating for about 30 years now. Thanks for the replies! The face is already half done, the 2110 is already on and the 1105 is waiting to be burned. My question was more directed towards the base of the anvil, the lean drives me crazy and forces me to work with the horn on my left (hope I don't start a war there haha). I was going to build up the base on the low side and mill it flat, so the face would sit level. I have been using 6013 for the wrought repairs, like where they beat the cutting shelf to death. It has held up well, I wil
  9. No one?? A friend has "anvils in america" he said it was a 1900, which is earlier than I thought! I will hopefully heat it up and finish the face repair soon, and figure I will build up the low side of the base a little. Would love some recommendations on rod if anyone has any!
  10. That is very interesting with the hex nut, It's something to watch for I wonder how many have that. As for the screw box, yes it may not be a definitive identifier, but you are saying that it matches your IC, and it matches perfectly with a friend's IC. I'm sure that parts could be replaced, but also I'm sure that many went out the door with differences from one to another, it's just the way manufacturing was, you used what you had sometimes, even if it was for an "older model" or such. Here is an Indian chief that matches mine exactly, the spring, arms, leg, screw box, everyt
  11. TBI, haha maybe that's why I like to beat on hot metal, thanks frosty you figured it out! take a look at your I C when you can, I really think that's what it is from searching around, but it's labeled as a COL I&F, which seems pretty cool! I don't know if that makes it newer or older, cant find anything on that. Daswulf I keep hoping that all the people who want to be a blacksmith will get bored and sell off all the iron they bought, but it hasn't happened yet! I think these tv shows drive it, like you said. But I know from my own friends, it's just something cool that fades away qu
  12. It was indeed a tool steel top, harder than heck! This is all that's on the front except the 81. It had been used for years after the top came off, it was in really bad shape. It'll be nice when it's done it's great now.
  13. Thomas Powers that brings up a topic that I wanted to post on here, why the heck are blacksmithing tools so xxxxxxxx expensive? I have tens of thousands in tools, it's what I do I live by my tools. But people want insane prices for simple tools! I saw the 4" and just couldn't justify that. People around here want 3-4000$ for a 500 lb anvil. I bought my lagun mill for less than half of that, it just doesn't make sense. JHCC you're probably right maybe I'm too picky haha!
  14. That's cool frosty, you know how I feel then! I think I will leave it, maybe I'll change my mind later. I couldn't find anything for F&I either but I think you nailed it Kozzy! The reason I say that is because it looks almost identical in every way to a friend's Indian chief vise! That makes perfect sense, COL I&F for Columbian iron and forge! That's great I love knowing what I have. Thomas Powers it was the vise in Gallup! Work had called me to Albuquerque and so it was perfect! Check out the jaws super cool still has the checkering! Frosty the screw and box are tight as
  15. Thanks Frosty! Sorry I am in the process of updating my profile. The machinist part of me wants the jaws perfect, it irritates the heck out of me lol. The blacksmith part of me says leave it alone! I'll probably do as Daswulf recommends and check or even adjust at the pivot pin. I can fill in, and remachine the hole and make a new pin real easy in order to re align. Does anyone have any ideas who made this baby?
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