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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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6 hours ago, CrazyGoatLady said:

I've never eaten bear, but I'd try it. 

By far my fav game meat!   It’s illegal to bait bear in Washington so we don’t have many trash bears.  Bears I hunt are all fattened up on berries.   Whole family  would tell you bear is our fav!

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Thanks GFH. And That's on my husband's bucket list is to go bear hunting. 

Nice organization Judson. My stuff is either in a bucket or leaned up against the wall in the corner. If it's something small I want to keep up with, it usually goes on the forge table. My forge sits on the frame of an old barbecue grill with a piece of sheet metal so I have enough room to store odd pieces of metal also for preheat of said material and my tongs, etc. Your system looks good and tidy

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Went bear hunting 1 time in my life. We used to raise Norwegian Elk hounds when i was a kid. One night we let them out to run the mountains and the next morning our big male was found next to the chimney tore to pieces an about half dead. So being the bunch of hillbillies we are we grabbed our shotguns and went looking for the bear that did it. The dog healed up and got better. 

Welcome aboard DBTomlinson. IDF&C should be along shortly to give you the link to the "read first" thread. I would but i am not that savvy as to how to put up links to a thread. But do read it, lots of good info on how to maneuver around here. Looks pretty good for a first thing, much better than the burned up thing i made my first time. Keep it around and you will see the progress you make over time. Anyway have fun and be safe. 

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Billy, I'd have went out to find that bear also! You don't mess with my dogs. Most folks would probably call us, rednecks haha. Glad your dog got through that. 

DBTomlinson, it's a good feeling to make something successfully isn't it? Good job. Welcome to the crew and keep posting pictures. It gets said a lot, but we really do love pictures. I still have the first crusty burnt thing I made. I heavily flattened a piece of round rod and sort of turned an eye. Thankfully, I can do much better now. Keep your first forgings so you can look back on them later

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Today, I got one half of a siabashi set(?)(cooking chop sticks) finished for my older son. They started as 7/16”dia x 6” (each) of 304 stainless steel. Taper forged out to 15 inches long from about 3/8” squat down to a little lest than 1/16” square. Draw filed, then a vinegar soak, finally (only one so far) hand finished down to 1000 grit. Intentionally left some of the forge finish as a nod to the fact that they were hand forged. Next time I may try a harden able stainless steel...

Forge on and make beautiful things!

David

D372271F-2863-4E55-AB3A-646C7904E133.jpeg

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new grinder (2x48)
120 scr controller, added some extra filtering and kept the surge protection left over from the power conditioner i gutted mostly for the enclosure 
new anvil stand made from 4x12's and lag bolts.  lastly a small dagger im working on. gonna switch to hand filing to work out some a-symmetry. 

 

belt grinder 3.jpg

belt grinder.jpg

belt grinder2.jpg

dagger1.jpg

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On 12/31/2019 at 11:08 AM, DBTomlinson said:

I made this Dutch oven lid lifter.

Good job DB, well done. Hows it work? 

Bluerooster: Take a look at the little dark streak in the broken end of piece on the left in the picture. This was a flaw and the initiation point of the break. It's dark because it's been in contact with air and oxidized. 

Keep at it buddy, this happens to us all now and then. No big deal.

Frosty The Lucky.

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 Thanx for pointing it out.  I thought it was delamination.  I'd drawn and folded it several times, and I figured that was a non weld of one of the folds.  Due to the direction of it running edge to edge. 

  Here's how it began it's life:    On left is inner race, the other things are made from the outer race. Top is half the outer race, flattened, drawn, and folded, 2 folds. The broken blade below is the other half of the outer race, drawn and folded about 10 times, and formed into the blade shown.  The next pic is that chunk in the fire, with a handle attached.IMG_20200101_104449061.thumb.jpg.7f38db243b78866cf4eeefac88b6a113.jpgIMG_20200101_132538484.thumb.jpg.d29019cee55b43d5a7de8f8383a5a944.jpg

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Being forge welded then you're probably right, not a delamination specifically, more likely a cold shut. A bit of crud or scale gets trapped in the weld makes an initiation point for a catastrophic failure. 

I recall reading your work in progress posts earlier but I don't recall if you said why you folded and welded bearing race steel, it's already crazy strong hard steel. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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  No particular reason, other than being a complete newbie, and wanting to try it.  I learned a lot doing that. Like 52100 likes to be hot worked, but not too hot. It also quits moving before it loses color.  Small parts get cool real quick, so be accurate with the few licks you have. It takes more than one heat and slow cool to get it to the point that it can be filed.

Also, my "ALO" is not the best in the world for working such material, but with patience it can be done.

Here is the finished letter opener made from the other half of that same race:

IMG_20200102_120913229.jpg

IMG_20200102_120923820.jpg

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Didn't get much dedicated shop time over the holidays, too much traveling to family and the 14 hours in the ER Christmas night did not help---lost the 26th trying to recover from the hospital stay. (My first episode of Diabetic Keto Acidosis...)  Did start retrofiting the new stove for Propane and got the old stove out of our packed house. (And there was great rejoicing!)

I did get the tools I bought at another smith's estate sale handled.

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Yesterday I had a friend stop by and got to spend a little time at the forge; finished consolidating the billet of ??? I had been working on and decided to start work on a Ti hammer head.  Hot cut it off the 1.5"x2"x6' bar and then used the screw press to do the preliminary punching. I hope my friend will send his pics...

CGL:  A tool I found useful for 2 tine eating forks is a sq bar with the end shaped to fit the top of the tine area.  Mine are usually fairly pointed so it's a wedge shaped end.  This allows you to center the tines and compress them against it---hammer or postvise, to get straight parallel tines. Post vise is great for tweaking handles straight too. IIRC I have ones in 3/8" and 1/2" on my tool rack (and have trouble with students assuming they are scrap suitable for reforging!)

Spoons have changed quite a bit over the centuries, with broad flat to deep narrow to...This reflects what they were made from and how they were used.  Earlier spoons look to have been sipped from rather than placed in the mouth like modern ones.  For a real odd one look at Bone Marrow Spoons!

Almost forgot I did get to spend an hour at the scrapyard and bought about 6' of hammer rack welded wire and 3 more hardy holes in a piece of Dozer? (Caterpillar yellow!)  They are 7/8" and so make a nice increment down from my 1.5", 1" ones.  Cost US$2----One doesn't need an anvil to have a hardy hole!

 

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