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I Forge Iron

Goods

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Everything posted by Goods

  1. Another gift that would be invaluable, would be a membership to your local ABANA affiliate, assuming you have one close by. When I first started, I hooked up with our Local IBA (Indiana Blacksmiths Association) chapter and that was the best step for me. You can read and watch YT, but having an experienced smith work with you and give advice at a hammer-in is the fastest way to get started and grow through some frustrating learning curves. When we are meeting at our shop, it’s a 25min drive, in the winter months we meet at members personal forges which is any from a 5min walk to an hour drive, but the drive is well worth it! (Especially to see different smith’s setup’s.) David
  2. TW, I envy you. I can’t bring myself to spend time organizing, and I’ve got a lot to do. If I have free time, I just want to be working at the anvil. The only way I think my leather working will improve is if I spend some money on some decent tools and spend time working with them. I watched Torbjorn Ahman’s latest video last night after finishing the sheath and realized having the right tools would make it much easier/neater. Of course I still need much more practice before I would get anywhere near his level of perfection… David
  3. I hate contracting work out. My shop was supposed to be done in April, one thing still left to be done! They really want there last payment… At least it’s basically done and usable.
  4. I finished up the cable knife and sheath and gifted it to my wife. She’s very happy with it. I’m still pretty pleased with the knife, but I really need to improve my leather work. Now, I have to make one for the shop… David
  5. Might sound strange, but try shortening you connection points and put both springs in the picture on linked together end to end. That should give much more weight reaction. I believe the calculation for springs constants in series is the same as electrical resistors in parallel. David
  6. After about 16hrs in vinegar, I’m not happy with the etch. (Is the cloudy area on one side a ham on?) At least all the welds look good. (Please ignore the grinding, I’ve got a lot to learn!) I’ve moved up to murratic(sp?) acid. Hopefully, I won’t destroy it.
  7. Jennifer, I feel so much better now. The last pair of tongs I made took me probably 4hrs and turned out pretty horrible and I left them for scrap. (Another smith, picked them up at our next meet up and used them, saying they weren’t that bad…) I guess everyone can have an off day, especially outside of their own environment.
  8. I would assume that household appliances would be designed to be perfectly neutral for efficiency purposes, or slightly oxidizing to avoid any possibility of CO in a house.
  9. Made four more leaves for my wife, ginkgos requested this time. Also made a blacksmith’s knife. Started with 1/2 cable about 9” long. Mig welded the ends, heated it up, opened fluxed it and brought it up to a forge welding heat. At that point I twisted it crazy tight and continued the weld (multiple heats) in 1/2” round swage, then a 3/8” round swage. At this point I knew the bar was too small for a knife, so I reversed the twist on half of the bar, forged it down to a rectangular cross section, cut it in half, put the ground faces together, Mig welded the ends and forge welded it back together. At this point the welds looked good, so I drew out the blade width along the face of the last weld hoping to see a reverse pattern, and finished the rest of the shaping. Now, it’s hardened and tempered. I have to finish grinding it, but any recommendations for bringing out the pattern, if it’s even possible? (Sorry, for the long winded description…) Thanks, David
  10. It would be pretty easy to make a custom trowel edge…
  11. 0.55% doesn’t seem like much, but think of the differences in forging 1018 (~0.18%C) vs 1070 (~0.70%C). That’s only 0.52%C difference. Very small percentages of alloys and how their interactions with in the steel can make a very large difference. I have some training from back in my college days, but honestly, I can’t remember near enough to be very useful… David
  12. Daswulf, I would be amazed if that’s not the same individual that demonstrated for us when I was in grade school. (I didn’t get any turkey though…) Well, now that I think about it, that was back home in Hanover, PA. Not that far from you, and we’re probably in the same age group… it’s a small word. David
  13. You could use a grid, and space bars to rotate through the grid and break up the clinker. That way you not disturbing you fire every time you need to clear the grate.
  14. Very glad to hear you are well! My wife is from Morgan City and has yet to hear from all of her old friends down there. Equipment can be replaced and helping others comes first… David
  15. The best thing I’ve used for finding the studs under the thick plaster in my old house is a very strong rare earth magnet. (It’s pulled towards the nails holding the plaster lath.)
  16. Another good option would be to make a bick or cone for the hardie hole in you anvil. The horns of my anvils are in good condition, but I like to use a hardie cone for small detail work. It’s easier for me to look straight down on the work piece to see any imperfections. (Not that I can get them perfect…) David
  17. Here in the US, if I was really set on the idea, I would get a good ink thumbprint, scan it in, mirror it, then talk an industrial stamp manufacturer to see what the cost would be. There are makers on Esty and other internet sites, but I’m not always sure of how legitimate those “businesses” are. (EDM/CNC work doesn’t normally come in cheap.) David
  18. Beautiful hammer Jennifer! What is the radius on the peen? It looks pretty aggressive. David
  19. Reminds me of a seafood restaurant in Morgan City, LA. Along the back wall they had very similar stuffed frog dioramas in display cases. I believe the restaurant closed down a few years ago… I have been down there for at least five years now. David
  20. Get it running while you’re looking, a lot of skill can be built up and fun had. I’m assuming these gears would be difficult to find intact on otherwise unusable forges, but you never know… David
  21. JHCC, I appreciated your idea for using an ASO as an upsetting block on the floor and have since move one of mine to right in front of the forge and is it that way the other day. I worked out pretty good!
  22. PHDforge, I love doing demos, and kids are the greatest parts. They soak everything up. Honestly, I think the they get more from it that 90% of the adults! I end up giving most of the small items I make at the demos to the kids. Just makes my day seeing them so interested and seeing their expressions when I had the items over! I believe my demo for next week is cancelled, that county is in the red for COVID19. (I believe it’s the 1st time for that country since the ranking came out…) I was really looking forward to it, and the even in October is at risk also. Oh well, there’s always next year. David
  23. I’m not sure how well that grate will work for you. I just replace the clinker breaker in my Buffalo forge with one from centaur forge. Not not the same design as the original and a little smaller, but I seems to be working quite weld. I have not seen anyone lining a cast fire pot with clay, and I can’t really offer advice on claying the forge pan itself. My first attempt at doing so was pretty dismal and just picked up some more clay for a 2nd attempt. David
  24. That would be built up from forge welded wrought iron with a forge welded steel face.
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