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I Forge Iron

Glenn

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Everything posted by Glenn

  1. From the photo of your set up, there is a very large open area between the forge and the hood. This tries to gather air from everywhere and send it up the chimney. When you put sides on the hood, this limits and reduces the gathering of air from everywhere to just the open area. For this forge may I suggest side skirts on both sides to just above where they do not interfere with your work at the forge, say 6-9 inches above the forge. At the front, add a skirt that allows you to see the back of the forge as you stand in front of the forge. This should greatly reduce the air gathering ability of the hood to just where the smoke is being produced and not the entire room. This forge and hood is similar. The cone shaped hood is what is gathering the smoke, not the square top portion. Make a site line from where you stand at the front of the forge to the back of the forge. Use this as the height of the top of the new addition. Close the sides from that height to comfortable height above the forge in order to channel air into the hood, and up the chimney. This causes the air to move across the fire, the forge, and up the chimney. Play with loose sheet metal panels and try things out to see what configuration works for you. You are not blocking your view of the fire, or the forge, but are reducing the area for gathering air to where the smoke is being produced.
  2. A lot of this depends on the size of the forge and how much fire you have in that forge. 10 inch and 12 inch diameter chimneys are suggested for most forges, single blacksmith usage. I have tried 14 inch, 16 inch on the same side draft hood and they worked but anything larger started to reduce draft and not draw as well. The 4' (1.25m) -- or more -- above the peak/highest part of the roof if suggested in order to get the smoke above the way the roof redirects any air currents. Take notice of anything that will affect the air currents at the top of the chimney, trees buildings, etc. They suggest 10 away from the chimney. Look for air redirections, eddies, etc and anything that can create a downdraft or stall at the top of the chimney. Heavy weather can create this in some instances. Pre warm the chimney with a couple of sheets of newspaper in the chimney to get a draft started before you build a fire. Build the first of the fire HOT so it encourages a good draft before you add fuel. When adding fuel, add a little at a time until it catches fire, then add more as needed. Keep a 1 inch or larger hole at the top of the fuel to let the fire escape and burn any smoke. Think volcano. In order to test the wind direction and currents you may want to build a fire where you plan on putting the building and watch the smoke. Not just one fire but one on a clear day, an overcast day, a rainy day, and during heavy weather. Just because you have a building with a chimney, do not think you are going to change the wind and which way it blows. A straight chimney works best. If you have to make a bend use 45s rather than a 90 degree bend. Lock at the top of the chimney. The amount of smoke coming out the top of the chimney is the amount of fresh air you MUST bring into the building. There is a discussion on the site about putting the chimney directly through the wall at the forge and then outside put the chimney straight up. Scroll down to the bottom of the page.
  3. If you had only found that video when you needed it 2-3 months ago.
  4. Safety glasses are a consumable item. They get impacted, scratched, and damaged while in use and need replaced from time to time. Keep them clean as part of your daily routine.
  5. Get some IR glasses. Start by looking at the welding supplier. Practice NOT looking into the fire all the time, Only look for brief periods, glances, to see what you need to see, then look away.
  6. I have NEVER seen a tick crawl out of a piece of folded over tape.
  7. Seems to be a good year for ticks. One maybe two a week so far. Best way I found to be sure they do not return is to stick them to a piece of tape, fold it over, and stick the tape to itself, sealing the tick inside.
  8. Bringing it home every day and one piece at a time saves you from having to use the BIG truck several times.
  9. Try to keep an air gap just under the roof, that is between the roof and the insulation. Leave the peak of the roof open, think ridge vent, for the air to escape as well as the opening at the bottom soffit. This lets hot air go up and out by normal convection.
  10. Try the doo rag down to where it touches or hides the eye brows.
  11. Next time you build, separate the two bottom containers so that a 3rd container can by used to cover and span the gap between them. You get a cover over the open space plus a sealable 3rd container in the process. Bolt all three containers together into one unit. The roof can then be put on to enclose the two side triangles plus a roof over the whole thing.
  12. The images, pulled from the deep archive. They should fit into the numbers Bellows 01, 02 etc.
  13. A special shaped chisel with make short work of clipping corners on a production run. Even faster when you set up a stop for how far from the edge for the chisel to hit. Think of a fence with the metal sliding under the fence and hitting the stop. Put the chisel against the fence and whack. This is also where a guillotine fuller can be used.
  14. Off Site Storage is great IF they still have it and you have a week or so to get it. An extra copy in the shops log book is great. The log book starts when you have several of the extra copies that need gathered together in one place so you can find them. Early on I put a copy of the rods I usually used on each welder, the amp setting, AC or DC, etc and covered it with clear tape for protection. Some amp settings are now crossed out and a better number is listed. You would be surprised how many times you check that list just to be sure.
  15. Make a second copy and store it in a fire resistant enclosure, say taped under the shelf of the table. It will come in handy later. (grin).
  16. Any manufacture that recognizes an issue, then recasts the batch gets my attention. A little extra time to get a good tool that meets their standards is not a problem. It is refreshing to see a manufacturer honest enough to say something had issues and is being remade. Makes you trust the other products they make.
  17. Some folks are able to carry a tune in a bucket if they use music written on paper.
  18. Blacksmiths use ball pein hammers, and the pein end, to form rivets. They do not seem to have any problems with hitting the end of the rivet material many times and in many different directions to end up with a rounded end and a secure rivet.
  19. Depending on how much wood you gather and stack, there are several methods that make small quantities workable.
  20. It is not your English as I did not understand the question either at first. recipes a set of instructions for preparing a particular dish, including a list of the ingredients (food materials) required.
  21. For the sake of discussion we should limit this to using hand held hammers, and anvils. The eye scans the metal for information which is then sent to the brain for processing, resulting in many calculations. The brain then factors in a multitude of variables in order to produce a solution for the body to swing the hammer. This results in the amount of force used, the impact point of the hammer head, as well as the X, Y, Z tilts and axis of the hammer needed at the point of impact. The results of the impact is then scanned again and the information again sent to the brain for the next calculation to achieve a solution for the next hammer swing. All this goes into the background and becomes instinctive after a while. How would you go about putting laser sights on a hand held hammer so that the laser beams would cross exactly where the hammer was going to hit? Not putting static lasers to light up the proposed impact point, but to attach them to the hammer itself to indicate you needed to adjust the direction of the swing, the tilt of the hammer head, or the intensity of the impact?
  22. The ball end of a ball pein hammer is actually rather large in relation to the head of 16 penny nail. Hitting the nail is not the issue. Hitting the nail straight on or at least straight enough not to cause a glancing blow, or bending the nail, is the challenge. Like with anything, practice makes you better. Blacksmiths quickly learn not to aim the hammer, but to KNOW where the hammer is going to hit, and use that to their advantage. Out of the hundreds if not thousands of hammer impacts a day, they manage to hit the hot metal where they want the impact to go, and how to use that impact to move metal.
  23. Autocorrect is just a first pass tool to improve what you typed. You then need to review what autocorrect did with the words and spelling to see if that is what you actually wanted to say. Then read what was written again to see if it is clear and understandable. Tools are suppose to help make life easier, but you have to learn how to use them.
  24. Your you tube channel has 3 videos. The first video is blank, a black screen. The second video shows trying to lightly sand the unsupported wooden handle of a wire brush with one hand, leaving the low spots and stains, and applying finish. The third video is showing that the drill press can move.
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