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  1. Thanks for the response! I must have just not cut deep enough.
  2. The file should skate pretty well, yes. If it's a hard file (like a chainsaw file) it may bite a little bit, but it shouldn't much. You could also file the foot or another soft part of the anvil for hardness comparison. EDIT: Be sure to test several spots along the edges for hardness, since if it was milled, it could have been un-level and taken off more of the face in some places than others.
  3. With a 5.25" wide face 250lb is pretty believable. I'm not sure about the hole going through it, but that shouldn't affect its usefulness. However, it does look suspiciously like someone milled the face down.
  4. Really nice looking hammer, HammerHeart. I've always avoided using hydraulic cylinder rods because I thought they were chrome plated. Is this not the case?
  5. Hi Jennifer, I just have a quick question. How do you break the stock into lengths for the chain links like you did in the beginning of the video on the chain-making session? I don't have a cold-cut or a hardy hole to hold a cold cut, so I tried making the notch with a cold chisel instead. However, when I tried to break it, the bar just bent, and didn't snap off like yours did. I tried it with 5/16 round bar, which looked similar to the stock you used. How deep are you cutting through it before breaking it? Is there a specific technique you need to use when breaking it off? It looked really easy at the competition when you did it, but I just couldn't get it to work right. Thanks
  6. Has the face plate been milled down? It looks rather thin, especially on the left in the photo.
  7. The alignment of the cheeks is fine. As I understood it, the bolt helps to keep it that way by taking some of the load off the forge welds. However, if I'm mistaken, I'll just leave it as-is and not worry about it. Yes, the original bolt does have the indexing nub.
  8. I guess I'll keep it simple then, thanks! I'll see if I can find a nut that fits.
  9. Hi, a couple months ago I got a 6.25" jaw post vise, and it was missing some parts: the spring, mounting plate, wedges, and nut for the pivot screw. I made all the replacement parts except for the nut, which I just didn't think was too important since the bolt stayed in fine without it. However, after stumbling across a thread on here about vises, I learned from one of jlpservices' posts that the pivot nut and bolt assembly is an important part of holding the tapered vise cheeks together. Having learned this, I would like to find some way to replace the nut. The threads on the original bolt are rather messed up near the end, so I'm not sure if there's enough good threads left to work with: What should I do? Is the original bolt salvageable, or do I need to make a replacement? The other bolt in the second photo is just a bolt of the same diameter. Thanks!
  10. Really interesting video. Thanks for taking the time to make it!
  11. Really nice looking hammer. Do you have a photo of the punch/punches used?
  12. I'm interested in learning more about this as well. I've used a rather crude oval shaped punch on all the hammers I've made, but I like the idea of using a round punch. Is your method of punching the eye similar to how Torbjörn does it in the video linked below (minus the power hammer of course), or is it a different technique when working with a hand hammer?
  13. Nice video Jennifer. I missed most of the herb hook portion of the competition in person, so it's nice being able to watch it now.
  14. Looks great to me; certainly a lot better than the anvil I've been using for well over a year now, which is missing its entire heel and has several chunks missing from the edges. It still works for nearly everything though, especially with a few work-around tools I've made. You even have an intact hardy hole on yours, so all you need if you want perfect polished edges is to make an edge block to go into your anvil. That way you can have four different edges to use, each with a different radii ground into it.
  15. I believe that's a Soderfors. Very nice anvil if it still has its hardness. How's the rebound tested with a ball bearing? If it isn't good, the anvil could have been through a fire and ruined the temper. Otherwise, I'd guess it's just the dirt deadening it.