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I Forge Iron

Chelonian

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About Chelonian

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  1. Personally I'm not a fan of the patterns that have an artificially wide face by having it flare out at the top like that. I prefer having a narrower working face to begin with, and I like having flat sides for some operations. I myself would go with the Holland, but I'm sure either anvil would work fine.
  2. Here's an 8" long piece of 6" round mild steel that's a great anvil (~70lbs). I welded on a small horn and heel, but if you're planning on making knives there's not much need for that. I've used it a for a while and despite being mild steel it holds up just fine. If this were my main anvil I would have made the heel and horn heavier duty, but I made this more to act as a nice solid bick and bridge tool. And if for no other reason, starting with a block-of-steel anvil will let you learn hammer control on a much less expensive anvil. While learning, if you put dents in a block of stee
  3. Really interesting! I've never seen someone do this before. For "A", I believe the face curves down because the downward hammering while welding the face on causes the face to mushroom out a little, and when they hit from the side to knock the edges back it pushes some of it down the sides of the anvil. This is why anvil faceplates always look thicker judging by the edges than they really are. The rest is pretty much a mystery to me as well. Hopefully others with more ideas will chime in. I really wonder if a slice from an anvil that did not break would show nearly as many inconsistencies
  4. Given Joey's recent videos on forging on his miniature anvils, you really have to wonder what someone did to break the heel off a 700lb anvil. Must have had a pretty major flaw from the start. Still a really amazing looking anvil!
  5. IIRC stands for "If I Recall Correctly".
  6. He did later build a 1490lb vise similar in design to the old floor mounted chipping vises.
  7. I think that anvil has been around on Craigslist under different listings for years. To me it looks like someone welded a lot on the face as a "repair", covering the original holes and giving it razor sharp edges.
  8. It's not uncommon for forged anvils to be uneven on the bottom. If it causes rocking you can use shims and something like silicone caulking between the stand and the bottom on the anvil. The silicone also helps reduce the ring.
  9. Those are the handling holes for manipulating it around with long bars when it was being forged.
  10. Is the hardy hole side-exiting? it kind of looks straight through, just offset from center.
  11. There were lots of makers, so without any markings it would be tough to identify maker or age.
  12. To me it looks like forged WI with a steel face. It should be an excellent anvil! In what part of the world are you located?
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