• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Chelonian

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

807 profile views
  1. Welcome to the forum! Your anvil looks a lot like the anvil I've been using for the past year and a half. It's not too difficult to work around not having the heel/hardy and pritchel holes once you make/scrounge some tools to take their place. I would remove the mushroomed edges, and I did grind the broken heel edge on mine to make it more useful. I would not recommend doing anything else to the face though. I keep a railroad track anvil next to mine which is very useful for replacing some of the anvil's shortcomings.
  2. Chelonian

    Post vise info

    It's a John Brooks cast steel vise. They were made with the leg as a separate piece that threads into that hole and extends to the ground. It should be pretty doable to make a replacement leg.
  3. Welcome the the forum! That would be 248lbs. By "cleaning" it, I hope you don't mean grinding the face at all. Any material removed from the thin steel faceplate removes a lot of life and usefulness from an anvil. We will need to see the stampings and general shape to determine the age.
  4. That looks like a really nice anvil. I would suggest creating a radius on the edges somewhat (a variety of edge radii is best), since they look rather sharp right now. This will help avoid forming cold-shuts in your work and make the anvil edges less prone to chipping.
  5. Thanks for the response! I must have just not cut deep enough.
  6. The file should skate pretty well, yes. If it's a hard file (like a chainsaw file) it may bite a little bit, but it shouldn't much. You could also file the foot or another soft part of the anvil for hardness comparison. EDIT: Be sure to test several spots along the edges for hardness, since if it was milled, it could have been un-level and taken off more of the face in some places than others.
  7. With a 5.25" wide face 250lb is pretty believable. I'm not sure about the hole going through it, but that shouldn't affect its usefulness. However, it does look suspiciously like someone milled the face down.
  8. Really nice looking hammer, HammerHeart. I've always avoided using hydraulic cylinder rods because I thought they were chrome plated. Is this not the case?
  9. Hi Jennifer, I just have a quick question. How do you break the stock into lengths for the chain links like you did in the beginning of the video on the chain-making session? I don't have a cold-cut or a hardy hole to hold a cold cut, so I tried making the notch with a cold chisel instead. However, when I tried to break it, the bar just bent, and didn't snap off like yours did. I tried it with 5/16 round bar, which looked similar to the stock you used. How deep are you cutting through it before breaking it? Is there a specific technique you need to use when breaking it off? It looked really easy at the competition when you did it, but I just couldn't get it to work right. Thanks
  10. Has the face plate been milled down? It looks rather thin, especially on the left in the photo.
  11. The alignment of the cheeks is fine. As I understood it, the bolt helps to keep it that way by taking some of the load off the forge welds. However, if I'm mistaken, I'll just leave it as-is and not worry about it. Yes, the original bolt does have the indexing nub.
  12. I guess I'll keep it simple then, thanks! I'll see if I can find a nut that fits.
  13. Hi, a couple months ago I got a 6.25" jaw post vise, and it was missing some parts: the spring, mounting plate, wedges, and nut for the pivot screw. I made all the replacement parts except for the nut, which I just didn't think was too important since the bolt stayed in fine without it. However, after stumbling across a thread on here about vises, I learned from one of jlpservices' posts that the pivot nut and bolt assembly is an important part of holding the tapered vise cheeks together. Having learned this, I would like to find some way to replace the nut. The threads on the original bolt are rather messed up near the end, so I'm not sure if there's enough good threads left to work with: What should I do? Is the original bolt salvageable, or do I need to make a replacement? The other bolt in the second photo is just a bolt of the same diameter. Thanks!
  14. Really interesting video. Thanks for taking the time to make it!