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I Forge Iron

Chelonian

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About Chelonian

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  1. George N. M. : Thank you; I will keep it around for special uses like you mentioned.
  2. Recently someone gave me a bar of mystery steel that had been sitting in their barn for many years. Despite the conditions, it had not rusted and was still fairly shiny ( it was not plated). I spark tested it, and it strangely produced almost no sparks. The few sparks it did produce were reddish-orange. It is attracted to a magnet, and is soft and easy to file. Today, I tried forging it. Oddly, it hardly produces any scale at all, and only at high temperatures (at about bright orange, it seemed). I also drew a taper on the end and test quenched it it water. It did not harden at all and I was able to bend the quenched end of it over cold without it cracking. After this, I was satisfied that it was a decent material, and I decided to make a pair of bolt jaw tongs from it. It forged fine; it was just a little bit harder to move under the hammer than mild steel, but nothing like 5160 or anything like that. After the tongs were done and I was just doing the final tweaking of the jaws at a low heat, one of the jaws broke right off. The material did not give any prior indication that it was prone to cracking in my earlier tests, but it did here. The grain structure was pretty large at the break; I wonder if all the heats while forging it grew the grain size and made it weaker? I guess it was just another lesson on using mystery steels. Anyone know what sort of steel it could be, given the information above?
  3. That thing looks enormous to me. Good luck!
  4. It's the anvil part of a vise + anvil combination. Since they're cast iron and hollow, they aren't very suitable for forging.
  5. Those tongs all look really good! What size was the starting stock for them?
  6. I would try to get it to sit as flat as possible, and then use caulk. The caulk will also help reduce the ring.
  7. I really like the narrow face, and the horn transition looks very useful.
  8. Please be careful disassembling magnetrons. Most have a fragile beryllium oxide ceramic insulator that can easily break and become airborne. Breathing any of the dust can lead to Berylliosis.
  9. Photos of the anvil would be very helpful in identifying when it was made.
  10. Looks like the markings are 1, 0, 7. These are hundredweight markings and equate to 119lbs.
  11. The low spot is called sway, and is common with older wrought iron anvils. It is not generally a problem, and can sometimes be beneficial.
  12. The face certainly does not need to be repaired! It is in quite nice shape. The missing feet will likely not affect it's usefulness. And yes, it does look like a William Foster anvil. They are wrought iron anvils, with a high carbon steel face welded on top. The hardened face is usually only 3/8"-1/2" thick, hence why grinding or milling the face is almost always a bad idea.
  13. If it says "William" on it, it is most likely a William Foster anvil.
  14. As long as the threads are in working condition, it seems like you only need to make a handle bar to get the screw functioning again. Can you temporarily just use a bar for leverage to unscrew the lead screw to inspect it? That is a really remarkable vise you have.
  15. Welcome to the forum! Your anvil looks a lot like the anvil I've been using for the past year and a half. It's not too difficult to work around not having the heel/hardy and pritchel holes once you make/scrounge some tools to take their place. I would remove the mushroomed edges, and I did grind the broken heel edge on mine to make it more useful. I would not recommend doing anything else to the face though. I keep a railroad track anvil next to mine which is very useful for replacing some of the anvil's shortcomings.
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