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Frosty

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Everything posted by Frosty

  1. I like it, nice yard art. It has me thinking a few LEDs to light up the bottles might be nice. Larger leaves would balance with the branches better to my eye too. All that aside, WELL DONE! Mom'll love it. Frosty
  2. A 0.030 jet is small enough it should be running lean, not rich. I run 0.035 in mine and have to be careful tuning to keep them from running lean. When you trim your mig tips back do you debur them? A torch tip file pushed from the threaded end out works best. Don't overdo it or you can enlarge and or deform the jet. You want it round and smooth so the propane stream emerges in a smooth cone straight down the center of the mixing tube. I don't know what to do about the hose's influence on alignment right now. Maybe as a temporary measure prop it up as close to the burner as practica
  3. A couple things. First the only thing wanting it RIGHT NOW guarantees is making your mistakes permanent more quickly. Old type IFBs ran $13 ea. on the shelf in Anchorage Ak. K-26 are becoming industry standard and are available on the shelf in Anchorage for just under $4 ea. with our club discount, under $6 retail. Old type IFBs have a very short lifespan in a propane forge, their tamp rating is way too low and they can't tolerate the rapid temp changes a propane burner causes. Seriously an IFB lined forge will go from room temp to 2,800f.+ in under 5 minutes. You get to light your old t
  4. A still pic tells me all I usually need to know, they don't move around and such so I can focus on what tells me the story. However a really short video's sound track sometimes fills in details. Your burner is running way rich largely because the gas stream isn't right. The flame is bushy and soft, actually fluttering. You said you've used different size mig tips. What size is this one? About your forge. The only dimensions that matter where burners are concerned is the volume and shape. One well tuned 3/4" burner will bring between 300-350 cu/in to welding temperature. Odd sh
  5. Sure Mike, all you need is a laser powerful (bright) enough to fuse the desired ceramic. MY, you HAVE been away too long or use burners in ways we can't discuss here. NO! Please don't PM me and tell me, I don't want to know! Not having you around to poke fun at has been a hole in the forum. Oh, if a person wanted to sexify a 3D ceramic burner a laser printed glaze flame job would be a start. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Agreed, cracking water electrically is an economic negative. Thermally cracking water is less so. It takes a heat exchanger in the exhaust circuit that can amplify the temperature. The water being cracked controls the final temperature and prevents damage to the system. Recirculating the furnace exhaust through the cracker would save energy as well. While thermal cracking works you don't see anybody doing it so it's not an economic positive. A good example of a thermal amplifying device is the "Vortex Tube." Nifty things. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. Welcome aboard confusing scramble of letters guy, glad to have you. If you'll sign your posts with a name, nick, or something less clunky we won't make one up for you. Also if you put your general location in the header you'll have a chance of hooking up with folk within visiting distance. The reason using HHO or H2 for forge fuel makes brittle steel is called, "hydrogen embrittlement" and is probably why you don't see: foundries, mills, etc. using hydrogen as fuel. It's cheap enough to make if it were a suitable fuel it'd be in use. You can crack water in a heat exchanger on the exhaust
  8. The air hammer bits are for driving, ground rods like Billy suggests or say studs. You don't need ATF and acetone, it's just the best home brew we've run across so far. You can use oil and a solvent, gasoline say. Being VERY CAREFUL of the fumes, acetone produces flammable fumes but not as much as gasoline. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Being farther from the opening could mean it was getting cleaner air. Exhaust gasses from the opening WILL go up and probably be sucked in by the burner. When you start making changes, make ONE then test. If you make more than one change you'll never know what did what, the vagaries in cause and effect are exponential, 2 changes introduce at least 8 variables. It's a nightmare. Also we'll need to do some talking before I can make good suggestions, the above were guesstimates based on incomplete information and specifics I can't see. Yes, just moving a burner can move the jet o
  10. Personally I feel putting a ceramic blanket refractory in a solid fuel forge as shown in the Whitlock pic is pointless. It's probably a "good" idea to make it LOOK advanced from marketing. I also seriously dislike the full length slit air blast, it makes it impossible to control fire size. Heating that length of blade worthy steel without refining the grain under a hammer damages the blade. A JABOD is a superior forge in all aspects. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Glad to hear you've gotten what problems you were dealing with dealt with. There are a few things I have to agree with here: First, not making a larger forge than you need. Oh yes, hoping I learn that lesson someday. Second, I like a hot spot in my general smithing forges too. If I want to heat a large area I can move it back and forth. Oh yeah, I expect ceramic nozzles to rule, I love ceramics. A good BRIGHT laser and a person could 3D print the entire burner less jet in ceramic. Glad you're back, I missed you. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Goodess Tink that's a heck of an endorsement. Welcome aboard Mabaile, glad to have you. Did you actually follow MY forge build plans or someone on the internet's interpretation? I have detailed build instructions posted here in the gas burner section, "Illustrated T burner instructions" I think, I can never remember the name. When you look up the mixing tube to check jet alignment, do it in a dark place with a light shining in the supply side of the gas fittings. The pinpoint of light should be centered. The problem you run into with a pic as you've posted is the mig tip is lit on o
  13. How high do people have to be to question your standards Glenn? Frosty The Lucky.
  14. That is ONLY as a cement to bond two bricks together. It works pretty well for mending broken bricks. To avoid having to mice the drill table up and down and recenter the bit, use an assortment of nipples. However it may not be worth the hassle if you can drill the T without the bit wandering. If you have a lathe use the center drill. A little bit at a time, I have a cheap hole saw set that makes short work of IFBs without damaging them if you take it slow and don't bottom it out in the hole. Drill the limit pull the saw and chip the slug if it didn't break loose when you stopped
  15. Yes, muriatic (hydrochloric) acid is a haz mat and requires proper PPE and procedures to use safely. I don't understand a difficulty neutralizing it though, it's a pretty standard practice for acid, Dilute then add a suitable base, typically baking soda. Various combinations of: vinegar, peroxide and salt are pretty standard for patination. Salt is corrosive. I got some neat colors on copper with garlic but couldn't reproduce them with any degree of reliability. <sigh> Frosty The Lucky.
  16. NICE work! I like the head a LOT. I looked at the tractor for an embarrassingly long time thinking I was looking at a tractor through the gate. I LOVE that kind of illusion, good framing on the photo! I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing more of your work. Frosty The Lucky.
  17. Welcome aboard Chris, glad to have you. As a FYI, this isn't a blade or archeology forum, it's a blacksmith forum. There are a number of world class bladesmith members and more than one member holds degrees in archeology. Still this isn't really in our wheel house. Then you get to guys like me, I'm not a bladesmith nor hold a degree inn anything but I read a lot and am not shy about opinions. Just do NOT quote me I'm surmising from general knowledge. Please feel free to skip my response if you wish, won't hurt my feelings. 19c is hardly old so expect to find the steel is from a large
  18. We got the Moderna vaccine and my arm felt bruised from the day after for 3 days, I've had worse injections. No symptoms of illness: temp, sniffles, aches, lethargy, etc. It's an RNA vaccine not an attenuated virus so there is NO virus present to infect you on any level. I understand symptoms may occur caused by the immune system itself but NADA here. Didn't happen to us, we're looking forward to the booster and a Mexican dinner at our favorite place, "Chepos." I am DYING for a #1! I'm salivating as I type. Chili Reno, Mmmmmmm. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. We used to live next to a large walnut grove, about 60 acres I think and green walnuts make excellent ammunition but you have to get them exactly right in the pouch or a sling shot is likely to bounce it off your hand. Cumquats are excellent sling shot ammo and we never did learn what ripe was so the tree in the yard was an ammo store. My parents weren't big on spanking Dad had an abusive step father and he never struck us. A cuff for doing something grossly stupid in the shop was the only exception. EVER. Mother on the other hand had the dreaded wooden spoon and if she said, "Do I have t
  20. You look good in purple. A twisting wrench isn't a precision tool you can just lay the pieces on a wooden surface and tack it up. A little of isn't a thing. I've picked up all my monkey and similar adjustable wrenches at yard, garage, estate, etc. sales. Hard to find 24hr. yard sales though. I feel for you brother. On the other hand twisting wrenches are easy to scratch make. A suitable bar, preferably flat stock, 3/8" x 1 1/2" or 2" works well. Drill a hole the size of the stock you wish to twist, say 1/2". Then using a square mark from the OD of the hole to the side of the
  21. Wasn't limited to getting too rough, any activity that was dangerous, mean, destructive, illegal, etc. was expected to be punished by adults. Believe me when your parents are meeting the new neighbor and they tell them if I acted up paddle my butt, tended to make me careful about how I acted up. Rock fights got everybody paddled but dirt clod fights were okay. I REALLY liked grass fights, for a week or two after a good rain you could pull a handfull of grass and the roots would have a good lump of dirt attached. You could throw a grass: bomb, grenade, etc. (depending on the war) a lot far
  22. Your plan for broaching a round hole square is a proven method. If you hollow grind the end of the broach slightly the cuttings will curl into the center of the hole and you can clear them with the drill bit. Just be careful the bit doesn't gall and jam. Slow and easy does the trick. You'll probably need a Dremel spherical stone to put a hollow grind on 1/4" sq. That's probably going to be the tricky part. Frosty The Lucky.
  23. I second the nomination of "safe pain stripper" as typo of the month. This is looking to be a good month. I do so love a good typo, this one brought to mind high priced specialty ladies of the night. Ooh ooh, I've been enjoying safe pain in my left arm since Tuesday where I got my Covid vaccine! Feb 11 for the booster and wait for full effect and Deb and I are going out for dinner! Frosty The Lucky.
  24. I wasn't gigging you Phil, we all tend to get in over our heads picking up new skills. It's as much for other folks wanting to build burners as you. Mike, I and other knowledgeable guys spend I don't know how much time talking new folks through burner mis-builds. Welcome to the club. Thank you RToons, it's my pleasure. Phil isn't building a T burner, he's building one close to a Mikey type 4-5(?). Other than offering encouragement, THE man is doing the tutoring, so I'm just following along to pick up what I can. Frosty The Lucky.
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