Frosty

Members
  • Content Count

    31,794
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Frosty

  1. Have you searched out the patent drawings? That's just a reed valve. Does it work satisfactorily? Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Shady cool concrete on a hot day, delicious. Now how about tossing me some of your breakfast? Frosty The Lucky.
  3. No. Wasp waste is a venturi, a decrease in diameter followed by a widened one. I meant to say your sleeve mount is an adjustable "step" flare as described by Mike, where the thread protector I put on Ts is a fixed step flare. The effect on induction is as you describe for said reason, just not a wasp waste. I've never owned nor had the use of a pyro so if I'm curious beyond perceived color I put a 1" cube of cold steel in the forge and time it till color equalizes. I found using long bars wasn't consistent as different parts of the bar were in different temp zones. However in a ribbon burner forge this may not be an issue. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. I love your ghosty things CGL. Clean simple and very expressive. Well done. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Looks to be in pretty good shape, congrats. Just one thing; that's not what's meant by knuckle height, Michael. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. It'd be helpful if you put your general location in the header, you never know how many members live within visiting distance. Lots of smiths are willing to help someone learn, especially in exchange for cleanup, lawns, etc. Lots of us old geezers appreciate a teen around to help out, say ride along to the salvage yard or steel supplier to help load, tiedown, unload stack. Good way to get rides to meetings, shop time and a share of the scrounge or purchased stock. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. While the banister is always worth looking at the OP is from Dec. 2017. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. If I'm not mistaken "flow check valves" are internal to smaller propane tanks to prevent blow out leaks like a cut hose. While they can be inconvenient they aren't onerous to work around feeding a forge burner or four. If you open the draw gradually they aren't a problem, I've run my 4 burner shop forge from a 20lb. tank with a flow check valve, without problem. Just not for very long before it started to freeze up. I've been doing inherently dangerous things since I can remember I just do them carefully. I was metal spinning when I was 10 or 11 I'm a firm believer in safety and am a frequent clarion on IFI. Warnings and precautions can be taken too far though they desensitize the people who need a warning. Unfortunately the boy's been crying wolf so long they ignore him and warnings. A couple casters I know dewax with steam. No, they don't use a steam cleaner but they introduce water into the burnout kiln. Neither of them know each other, one lives here in the Mat Su Valley, the other on the east coast but there is a lot of similarity in their methods. About the only thing I remember about one method was to soak the mold before putting it in the kiln. I think another method was to put a pan of water in the kiln but I'm really fuzzy on that one. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Frosty

    Vise won't open

    No need to repeat your own post if nobody responds, if you make a habit of being impatient it'll irritate admin and the curmudgeons. Is there an ID plate on it? A name? If so look them up online and contact the maker. If not, estimate the size of the bolt, hit the hardware store bolt bin and buy a couple few as close as you can estimate. Go to a REAL hardware store, not a big box, real hardware stores have a better selection and might have replacement parts that'll work on your vise. You can ask the counter guy at a real hardware store and have a chance of him/er knowing the answer or where to look it up, they have order books galore. A counter guy at a big box isn't likely to know much of anything but how to ring you up. Another pointer is providing folk enough information to be able to give you meaningful answers. Bolt, isn't much info at all but you don't know what if anything special it's called. Next time you have this kind of problem take a picture so we have a better chance. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. There you go, it's a step nozzle/flare(?) I don't recall the name Mike. It acts in the same manner as a flare by increasing the area of the cross section in the mixing tube. Lengthening it increases the length of the flare and lowers pressure in the tube. This increases how much combustion air is drawn leaning the flame down. Nothing odd about it, this is how Mike fine tunes his burners. It also allows you to vary the forge atmosphere in real time. The T burner isn't designed to be tuned in real time, it's a variable I deleted from the basic design to keep it as simple as possible. Once a T is tuned that's it across it's psi range. It's been KISSed. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Don't sweat it, nobody's born knowing this stuff and we're learning all the time. That IS a real anvil, put it to work but keep your eyes open for something more effective. Whatever you use to beat against is by definition an anvil. The London pattern is just a fairly recent shape and not the most common around the world. Please don't get locked into thinking The London Pattern is the Real anvil. The device we screwed into the top of: Penetrometer Rod, casing or drill rod to drive a split spoon sampler is the anvil and the automatic hammer we drove it with weighs 350 lbs. or 140 lbs. You don't drive a split spoon with the 350 or they crush and you have to pull everything to finish the hole. I was an exploration driller, drilling test holes for bridges and foundations. I only bring this up as an example of a 30 lb anvil being struck with a 350 lb hammer. The hammer delivers the energy the anvil receives it. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Oh Bo! Do you know how much I love a good straight line? Are you torturing me on purpose or is it just happenstance? Do you have any idea how hard it is to type while biting my tongue this hard? Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Glad you delurked good to see you posting. I had to look a few times but that has to be a shadow or something pattern to make it look like the anvil has sagging skin. It's too grainy to see much. She's seen some use though most of the wear is at the hardy hole sort of like small square stock was being bent in it. One edge has been radiused nicely and I can see very little edge damage. It looks like it sat in a garden too many years. In general it's a gracile anvil, long thin heel and thin waist similar to my Soderfors. I don't see any obvious forge marks so if I had to guess from these pics I'd say it's cast. It isn't cast iron though, I'd put a few bucks on that, the damage to the hardy hole doesn't look like iron, it looks like steel. The horn is still sharp and iron anvils tend to have blunt horns or they break under use. Were I looking for an anvil I'd give serious thought to making the drive unless it's crazy far say >4 hrs one way. Let us know what you do and find out. If you go take a ball bearing with you and give it a rebound test. Brush as much crud off it as you can, drop the bearing and estimate how far back it bounces as a %. This is just an eyeball test for now and it's going to bounce dead because of the rust and dirt but it's an indication. You might be better off using a SMALL ball pein hammer and tapping a pattern across the face listening for sudden changes in tone. It'll sound pretty dead for the dirt and rust but sudden tone changes will tell the story. Expect rebound and tone to change gradually as you work from the center towards the heel, the thinner section will have a lower rebound and different tone. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Not so odd really, sliding the nozzle in or out is how Mike fine tunes his burners. Even slight changes in induction change the fuel air ratio. You get it pretty close with the regulator and air valve but it takes finer control to get the FAM just right Hmmmm? Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Come ON man, that's not a crate of beer, it's an Alaskan 12 pack. I like the hand truck, I'd even clear a spot in the shop for it to live. Frosty The Lucky.
  16. Dirty hugs and kisses? Okay, I like those. Beautiful as always. Thanks for the look see. Frosty The Lucky.
  17. Crimped aircraft wire = skidrow padlock. Quoth the Slag. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. Not being able to read what's in the refractory I can't say if hanging a light bulb inside is the mistake I think it is. Most refractories don't DRY, they hydrate like Portland cement concrete does. Moisture is molecularly bonded to the refractory "cement" and needs plenty of additional moisture to cure to full strength. Do NOT take that last as a statement of fact about the product you used I do NOT know what it is or how to use it. I certainly could be wrong. I've almost given up completely on troweling castable refractory, next forge will be cast and vibrated to de-air. Ah, the: good, fast, cheap, pick two doesn't always count when you're doing it yourself. Nothing wrong with your forge or anvil. You could've spent less time by not trying to make a rail anvil look like a London pattern. The London Pattern is just a shape I do probably 95%+ of my forging on the face and edges, the hardy hole is in the heel so I use it I guess. I almost never use the horn they're really over rated. Give your forge plenty of time to cure before firing it up the first time. It looks like a good working shape and size. You're off to a good start. Well done. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. Welcome aboard Wezz, glad to have you. Bug bit you eh? Heh, heh, heh. Join the club buddy, blacksmithing is addictive, you HAVE TO: Play with FIRE! Hit things with hammers! Drag road kill scrap home! It's: dirty, smelly, smoky, dangerous and LOUD! Tell me Bro does ANYTHING sound like more fun? The best part? (oh yeah, I'm not done) You learn what makes for true self confidence, how to do for yourself. Believe me, few things feel as good as using tools you make with your own hands. pnut lays it out pretty well but there is a minimum list. You need: a hot fire, something to beat against, something to beat with and lastly, something to beat. A JABOD is a modern version of forge that is literally thousands of years old, copper age or earlier. Something to beat against can be anything relatively smooth and heavy enough it doesn't bounce around under the work too much. I've used a nice smooth boulder a few times and you'd be surprised how well they worked. Vikings forged on limestone anvil stones. NOT always of course but often enough and look at what they made. My favorite field expedient anvil was a broken axle of some sort I buried on end flange up to my working height. I still kick myself for not pulling it and bringing it home with me but . . . <sigh> The anvil only needs to be a LITTLE larger than the hammer face. Any smooth faced hammer 32 oz. or less until you develop good hammer skills. More weight will mostly make your mistakes permanent more quickly, fatigue your arm and possibly injure you. Vikings used (yeah Viking smiths again. Am I developing a theme in this post?) hammers in the 1.5 - 2 lb range for the most part. Search out the "Mastermyr Chest", it is a 1,000+/- year old Viking era blacksmith shop in a chest. There isn't a tool a blacksmith won't recognize and probably put to work. Do NOT wait to start hammering hot steel till you have everything you need. You have eyes? Hands with thumbs? a Brain? There's your kit, the rest just makes it easier. Oh, NO FIRE BRICK PROPANE FORGES! If you're not going to buy Morgan ceramics K-26 IFB you aren't going to be able to build a very effective or economical forge. Hard fire brick is a serious heat sink so it'll take a lot of fuel to heat up and being about as good an insulator as limestone it'll take about as much fuel to keep hot. If you use common light insulating fire brick expect to replace their crumbling remains every other time you use your forge if you're lucky. Go JABOD and a piece of heavy steel of some sort as an anvil and get to learning. There are a number of good beginner projects that are decent sale items so you can eventually buy a cookie jar and start saving for better gear. You have your hammers don't go spending a bunch more till you've had a chance to scrounge at local heavy equipment shops for a piece of shafting, axle, etc. A box of doughnuts and something nice for the receptionist pay dividends WAY above and beyond their cost. Remember a bulldozer is made of anvils! You can buy a mattress inflator new at Walmart, they'll be going on closeout sale about now. I pick them up at yard, garage, etc. sales for under $1 usually sometimes they get dumped on me, take it all or leave the one thing I was interested in. You'd be surprised how many tables we come home with, I have a sweet little metal cart I got that way, it lives under my NARB forge. I could go on but this and more has been said hundreds or thousands of times here over the years. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. Interesting thought Kozzy. I'd be wondering how the pattern would effect heating and expansion. Increased surface area on the fire side would cause it to absorb IR at a higher rate wouldn't it? Coupled with the increased area on the plenum side's increased cooling rate I can envision some strange expansion differentials at work. Worth a try is you have the gear and time though. We'll work out something to seal it to the plenum. Frosty The Lucky.
  21. Yeah and we're all about a foot taller than our great grand parents. I put my 50# Little Giant on 4" x 12" laid flat to get it closer to a good working height and wish I'd sprung for 6" x 12"s, it's still too low and I've shrunk to 5' 7". Frosty The Lucky.
  22. Well, so much for attending YOUR estate sale. I don't know what Deb'll sell my stuff for if I go first, she keeps talking about having a yard sale to make more room for things she want's space for. Frosty The Lucky.
  23. If we're not looking at your AVATAR your eyes haven't crossed. His pyro does say 2379, I was joshing him about 1 degree so of COURSE I strike the wrong key and end up the butt of my own joke. . . AGAIN. Break out the rubber cyber chickens and whack away boys, I deserve it. Frosty The Lucky.
  24. The flare burner nozzle started out as a misunderstanding maybe 30+ years ago. I was reading industry sales pamphlets and patent drawings back when you could read such things without having to wade through endless "suggestions" from marketing software. We were messing with different plumbing pipe burners and I mentioned the mixing tube should be tapered outwards at no more than 1:12 ratio. Ron Reil and someone else I can't recall the name just added a flared end and it improved performance making them more stable and easier to tune. Since then folks have assumed a flared end is a must. It's sort of an urban myth but they do enhance performance. I keep the T burner more or less as it is because it's as easy to build as it gets for a reasonably effective burner. I met that goal so except for a couple improvements making it easier to build I've left it as it is. Except a couple minor changes the design is at least 30 years old. The thread protectors I put on them is mainly to make mounting them easier. Frosty The Lucky.