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I Forge Iron

Frosty

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Everything posted by Frosty

  1. Heh, heh, heh. It's just a matter of striking with the hammer face parallel to the desired face of the stock. On a wedge like a knife blade you need to angle the hammer to match. It's just a practice thing. Making leaves is excellent practice and don't sting as much as a blade if you screw one up beyond salvage. Frosty The Lucky.
  2. You're right George, I started out just being direct and let myself get caught up in the foolishness. My bad, thanks for the swift kick. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. Welcome aboard Brandy, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header we won't have to keep asking. Right now the club hasn't decided on the next meeting. There are a number of club members living in Anchorage but I think most folks are staying to themselves right now. I'll PM contact info so you can start talking to the local gang. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. I wasn't talking about grind, and finish I was talking about the hammer marks. Better control and you can forge a blade and hardly need to clean up marks. There are just a couple marks where the hammer wasn't parallel with the anvil face. It's a matter of practice is all. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Structural steel isn't hardenable. If it didn't flatten the edge then you didn't hit it nearly hard enough to cut even if you had a proper hardy. Spring steel is tough stuff. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Judging by the knowledge you exhibit with your questions I'd say it'll probably take you about a year to make a presentable bottle opener. However if you were to stop trying to convince everybody you're smarter than you are you'll probably pick up the necessary skills more quickly. Jumbling all those processes together on a simple project is most likely going to cost you a bunch in buying legal RR spikes to get one. If you REALLY want to know how long it takes you, start making things and keep notes. Include the things you think important. What possible good can it do YOU to audit MY work? Not that it's any of your concern in the first place it won't do you one bit of good. If you bid jobs based on my skills you'd end up owing the customers money. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. You're getting better Justin though you need to work on hammer control, a knife doesn't need that many hammer marks. Looks like a good working shop knife but you don't want to forge anything without trying to make it your best unless there's a pressing need for quick and dirty. Say the old lady next door can't get her seat belt unlatched and she accidentally got a flash fire in her mug of Vodka lighting a Cheroot. In tense emergency situations, quickly whacking out something sharp to free the old lady and defend yourself when you can't save her mug of vodka is PERFECTLY okay. It's a nice profile and size. well done. Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Disagree all you like you still haven't asked a question that can be answered. IF you can compose a cogent, question I'll do my best to answer it. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Welcome aboard Mighty Sea Turtle, glad to have you. Thank you for serving. I'll be looking forward to seeing pics of your forge in action. It sounds good so far. Be safe out there, we're pulling for you. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. I don't know how I missed this Randy. You're in our prayers here. Hang in there Brother we're pulling for you. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. Frosty

    Burners 101

    I've thought about making the spacers into vanes to direct the flow, I figure if I can get some moving the way I want more will follow. Unfortunately I'd have to know in advance which direction it WANTS to flow before I can direct it my way. I don't want to make a clear plastic model and use smoke streamers. It is an option I'd considered and the overall PITA factors have kept it on the back burner for 30+ years. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. My thought after reading THAT question is you need to learn a lot more about the craft before you try and quantify things. Honestly I don't know what you're asking. How long to make a dinner triangle? Not one of the aspects listed effect that, let alone ALL OF THEM. Seriously that's a disjointed jumble of . . . things, unanswerable in a meaningful way. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Like there ARE illegal herbs in Cal. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Frosty

    Forges 101

    I didn't drill wells, we took soil samples, set instruments and did infield tests. You would've been the person taking samples and logging the holes. Puts you in charge of where to drill and when to move on. Ayup, we did a couple of those kinds of jobs, though we were more interested in foundations for bridges and the like. I don't think I've ever met a blacksmith that didn't like fire. Maybe bring out a comfy chair side table for snacks and beverage, turn on some music and watch the flames swirl in your forge. Doesn't sound like a bad thing to do, especially if the honey do list is too long. Look how many times John has posted pics of the flame swirling in his forge. Frosty The Lucky.
  15. I've picked so many wires out of my hid I sometimes wish I'd saved them to weld up a billet. I have a heavy duty split moose hide apron I wear when I need armor, it's taken a couple fragmenting 9" grinding disks without a mark to it or much of a hit to me. Love that apron but MAN it's heavy. So, after going on and on about how dangerous wire wheels are I was doing a little touch up on a split cross, maybe 30 seconds if that. So, the straight brush naturally catches between the cross and the vise's jaws and there I am. After all the dire warnings about how dangerous the things are and I'm running mine without gloves or apron. Picked 3 bristles out of the back of my left hand for that one. Teach me to ignore my own self. Frosty The Lucky.
  16. Frosty

    Forges 101

    I call the flat floored cylindricals a "Vaulted" forge others call them mail box shaped. I think Vault sounds better and is architecturally accurate. Forges with burners firing up from the floor work pretty well, one of the guys in our club has been building them since I showed him how to make a T burner. They work really well and a good kiln wash, Plistex, takes care of the flame impingement issue. What surprised me was how little fell in his burners. I figured they'd be magnets for any loose item in the forge just because Murphy's law says it will. I think all his forges are up drafts now. You're over thinking the turbulence it's not an issue normally and if back pressure is an issue you'll know by it's tuning characteristics. So you have to build it a stable stand 10"-12" tall, or make a hole in the table. You're a blacksmith, making holes in things is a problem? Were you a driller I'd be mocking you in public, even calling drillers I swore I'd never speak to again. !! Frosty The Lucky.
  17. I agree Dick, I wonder if it ever occurred where throw bristles were going to poke holes in him. Loneronin: Moving a disk grinder, wire brush, etc. around fast isn't necessary, the motor does the work. In fact swinging a cup brush around wildly like that is a good way to catch an edge and have to pick steel wires out of your privates. It's a beautiful anvil, congratulations. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. Welcome aboard Jamie, glad to have you. I don't know anything about S&H anvils but that one looks to be in darned good conditions and its obviously been well used. If you're talking British pounds then that's a pretty decent price but we don't know what a fair price is on your side of the planet. I'd want to look at in person and take a ball bearing to test the rebound. The bigger is better trend has guys taking 1" / 25mm. bearings to do rebound tests but 12mm is plenty large enough and much easier to carry in a pocket. I have a couple 3/8" bearings in each of our vehicles in case I stumble on a deal. The idea is to drop the bearing on the anvil's face AFTER you wipe off any dirt and estimate how far it bounces back to your hand as a %. Doing it in front of a ruler is more accurate method if you're not good as this kind of estimation. 80%+ rebound is good to excellent. Don't be surprised the rebound goes down as you move out the square horn or tail on a London Pattern anvil, this is normal and to be expected. What you want to look out for are dead spots which indicate problems with the anvil's face. If it's a wrought iron body with a forge welded high carbon steel face it should have a uniform rebound falling off as the anvil thins moving out the heal or square horn in this case. If there are places where the rebound falls off suddenly it indicates damage, a face plate weld failure (delamination) or perhaps spot heating caused by heating something with a torch using the anvil as a bench. You see a LOT of this sort of abuse mostly in the form of cutting torch cuts. Anyway, I think it's a good looking anvil and probably a good price provided there isn't any hidden damage. I'd call it a good score and where I live it'd be a terrific score worth years of bragging rights. Blacksmith tools of any kind are hard to find here. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. Structural shapes: I beam, wide flange, channel iron, angle iron, etc. are mild steal designed to NOT get hard and completely inappropriate for a hot chisel. If you have another leaf spring grind a CONVEX edge on one side a little longer than the other spring is wide. You can hold it in one hand and hit it with a HEAVY hammer to cut steel under it. This tool is called a HACK. Maybe more properly a "Top Hack." Do NOT grind a concave edge "hollow ground" it's good for slicing meat and shaving and is as wrong for a hot cut as a bic razor. Convex edges are better supported against impacts and the geometry spreads the steel being cut so it's in contact with the blade over the minimal distance for less friction and heat transfer into the cutter. You could start hitting yard/garage/etc. sales and pick up old chisel sets or try a tool rental for worn jack hammer bits. Spade bits are ready made hot cuts they just need shortening, a square shank for the hardy hole or a handle and sharpening. Worn jack hammer bits are excellent for the stock pile and cheap. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. Frosty

    Forges 101

    If you've already paid for it then mix the ITC about the consistency of latex paint and apply it in a thin coat. If you can buy Plistex or Matrikote both are better products for a forge. A single burner forge wants to be reasonably monodimensional, same measurement in all 3 dimensions. Long and narrow like Mr. Frankenburner describes is pretty useless except for special cases. Frosty The Lucky.
  21. Frosty

    Burners 101

    Things have come a long way or are very different between large furnaces and household. The oil boiler in our basement completes combustion in about 8" after leaving the burner. Talking with the guys who service our boiler they say if the flame comes into contact with the liner it will burn the 3,000f split hard brick out quickly and the IFB behind it doesn't stand a chance. The flame exits the burner with a strong spin and spreads more sideways than lengthwise across the chamber. All that touches the walls or boiler tubes is super heated exhaust gasses. They tune to neutral exhaust atmosphere, either lean or rich damages or at a minimum inhibits performance. It's neat to watch through the site glass. A couple times anyway, the flame is pretty but doesn't do anything entertaining. It burns as cleanly as natural gas. It's a different thing entirely but unless I'm missing something a neutral burn especially with fuel oils produces the most heat per gal. Regardless of the efficiency or effectiveness of the burner, a recuperative wall does one thing. It transfers as much heat from the flame as possible to the flame face. It does this largely by heating it from both sides. Which as Panik surmises reduces the need for insulation. Still it's not possible to heat only one wall of the annulus. I dislike that as a term for the discussion it only describes a space, and the "space" under discussion is another component of a machine. Anyway, the outside flame face of the annulus absorbs energy but I'd REALLY like it better if it didn't. Reflecting it back at the outside of the inner flame face would be oh so much better. Ever check the price for Inconel sheet? Ever try working it? It'd do though, staying shiny at 2,000f is well within it's range. Monel might do as well but it's in the same range for price and workability. One of my jobs in Dad's shop was holding torch on some of the exotic alloys he spun, usually jet and rocket engine parts but occasionally reentry vehicles, Mars and Venus probes to be specific. They spun at high orange and got me yelled at if I grazed yellow. Not because it'd mess up the part but it caused problems spinning. Anyway, once it was cool you could wipe them off with a rag and they were like a mirror with spinning tool marks. The dark gray was from burned lubricant, not discoloration of the Monel / Inconel. The sphere on the top of the Washington State, capitol building is 20 gauge Monel Dad spun in the 40s. I think it was the 40s, he may have been working for Boeing at the time. Anyway, if you're close take a look at it through binoculars or a spotting scope, it's as shiny as the day it was installed. Well, was the last time I was there in the 90s. It may make the sweetest most effective forge going but talk about adding at least one zero to the price and a whole drawer of skills to your mental tool box. WhoOo EE! Making the annulus is easy enough if I cast the liners and use melt or burn out cores. Kastolite is sticky enough preplacing spacers will connect and support the two making it a almost a space frame structure. Then wrap the outside in Kaowool, rigidized like a stone and a final shell. My main issue in this mental image design is controlling flame flow in the annulus. It WILL want to take the most direct path NOT circulate around the whole liner. What I really want hot is the floor and dome, HOT walls are nice but it's the floor and dome that are really my target radiators. I'm pretty settled on corrugating the floor in a tight spiral to maximize surface area for heat absorption and re-radiation. It will allow flame to flow under stock and help maintain the forge floor's temp for maximum heat transfer to the work. I want the flame faces of the dome and walls as smooth as possible and largely zirconia. Smooth to radiate IR in as uniform a manner as possible. I mentioned using the burner flame as an induction engine to draw flame into the annulus. I don't know how well NARBs will work as primary jets in an induction device. They're low velocity but can effect darned large intake area. That's going to take some sperimentin and I need to come up with a test method. Circulating under the floor is an interesting problem. The NARB outlets will be angled to induce a cyclonic action. (Avoided saying vortex nicely don't you think?) This puts the higher pressure zone at the circular walls so slotting the floor just inside the walls should put positive pressure at the intakes and HOPEFULLY induce horizontal circulation in the annulus. Putting the final outlet in the dome puts it right AT the NARB driven flame recirculation inducer so that's out. I'd LOVE to put the exhaust port in the center of the forge floor but it'd need either a complicated fan assist or a really in the way vertical stack high enough to overcome all the other actions I want working. The best and most workable "solution" I can think of is just let it flow out the doorways. Hmmmm? Frosty The Lucky.
  22. Pretty good video, excellent production values, lighting, angle, etc. Nice tongs too, another good instructional video. Where have you been? You don't write, you don't call, we hardly ever see you. Don't you love us anymore? Frosty The Lucky.
  23. How hot does your chimney get? I've never seen a coal or charcoal hood stack get hot enough to burn zinc, it'd be glowing near orange hot. Sure you can paint it, stove paint works a treat and our wood stove gets close to 300f when it's really rolling. Header paint comes in lots of cool colors and it's good to probably 500+f. No problem with the vinegar soak, find something that fits inside the pipe and leaves an inch or two space. Carefully fold a BIG plastic bag over the inside spacer thingy and insert it in the stove pipe. Being VERY careful NOT TO CUT the bag. Yes? Now fold the remainder of the bag up over the outside of the stove pipe adjust till the inside and outside have about the same amount of plastic bag. Fill the plastic bag with vinegar, standing on end of course and in a plastic tub too catch the vinegar in case you did cut the bag. The giant lawn and leaf bags might give you 3' and cover the whole length. Another alternative is to wrap the pipe in a old towel and wet with vinegar to soak. It'd be a little harder on the inside but you can do it one side at a time and just lay the towel in it. Make sense? Frosty The Lucky.
  24. You're welcome, it's my pleasure to share how I have had to work around some of my mistakes so you can make new ones. Shafts usually get peined in place like that by someone using a center punch rather than a flat pin punch or going to town on them when they're locked up. Frosty The Lucky.
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