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Everything posted by Frosty

  1. I'm with Biggun, the only work that old lady needs is hot steel and a hammer, the edges are just right and her face will clean right up when you build her a stand put her to work. Excellent score by the way. Frosty The Lucky.
  2. Welcome to the club Meatman, we've all found out what we should've done after we did what we did. That'll still make an excellent anvil when you put it on a stand and you have a bushel basket of useful steel to make good stuff from. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. Those look like outdoor dogs alright. We have one long haired dog but she's Deb's service dog and lives indoors, the smooth coat Dachshunds are definitely indoor dogs in winter. We can't let ours run anyway, we live on a busy road. We use child gates to keep them from chasing the upstairs cat or jumping on Deb to play. You humble me every time you show your work Alexandr. You're a blacksmith artist in the truest sense of the term. Thank you for showing us your work. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. The topic of shop expedient crack checking might be a good subject of it's own. Dykem layout fluid works pretty well in this capacity. In Dad's shop we'd transfer blue prints to sheet steel, aluminum, whatever, to make a permanent template or cut out precise parts. It is VERY penetrating and reveals cracks when sanded off. I don't believe that's its intended purpose but it is hard as heck to clean off mechanically, it gets in every nook and cranny. I just looked at Dykem company and they make a bunch of different kinds of makers and fluids, they may have a crack detection product but I don't want to search the site. Frosty The Lucky.
  5. Welcome aboard Bob, glad to have you. Please slow down, your last post doesn't really make a lot of sense. I'm old and don't text folk on my phone. I'm looking at my laptop and use a keyboard. Hmmmm? I have to assume you have a pretty major car repair and may have to sell the anvil. If you aren't a blacksmith or collector the money makes it tempting. Am I close? I'm no anvil guru, I don't have THE book, "Anvils n America," that is the current reference manual for identifying and dating anvils. . . In America. What I can say is that old lady looks like she was made that way and is probably DARNED old. Maybe colonial or older. Possibly a sawyer's anvil or a similar specialty anvil. I'd leave her just like she is. I'd dust it with flour and wipe the surface off to bring out surface features like stamped marks and photograph it with oblique lighting; ONE light at a shallow angle to bring out features. Id take several photos from several angles of each side. Yeah, I'd be taking probably 40-50 pics. If she's what I think she may be worth a pretty penny. So please don't try to pretty her up, no grinding, heck I wound't take a wire brush to her. Wipe her down with an oily rag maybe but that's about it. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Not a thing wrong with tinkering around no matter how well a thing is working right now. I wouldn't have lucked into a working NARB if I wasn't willing to tinker and accept the high probability my idea wasn't going to work and bull ahead anyway. It just worked with a little tweaking. It was a lucky thing and I'll take it. About that animation. It's cool but everybody needs to bear something in mind. The animator is ASSUMING particles actually behave THAT WAY. I think there's a good chance they do behave that way but that's an assumption on my part. It's an animated model and probably holds true with a physical model say, clear plastic and smoke or colored water. To A DEGREE. No matter, they're still MODELS not working devices. That's why we draw pictures, bounce ideas off each other, make models then prototype and test in the real world. It's all part of the process. Right now we're brainstorming static mixers in HOME MADE devices. AKA SkyBalling. Skyball on Brothers. This is Fun Stuff. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. I have to agree, trim it down to YOUR working height and mount it on end. The remainder is good stock for anvil tooling , top or bottom. Anvil face height for ME is approximately 31" but I can adjust how I address an anvil to take up for other people's anvil height. You can determine your comfortable working height with the, very general departure point meter of standing in your work shoes and measuring from the your hammer hand wrist to the ground. THAT is a good starting height for the anvil face. It is ONLY the departure point it isn't THE right height for you. A good test to determine your best within reason anvil height if you can't use it a while and adjust the anvil, would be to make a practice or test stand anvil. Cut a piece of 4" x 4" lumber wrist height and practice hammering 2" x 4" or 1" x 4" lumber and examine the hammer marks. The hammer marks made to the 2" x 4" will probably be crescent dents open away from you. This indicates the impact point is high but t hat's to be expected if you were forging on a piece of stock 2" thick. Yes? If the hammer marks on the 1" thick lumber are even all round then the hammer face is striking parallel to the (test anvil) face. Yes? Good. Yes? Now try it on a piece of 1/2" plywood and look at the dents, are they circular? Good, yes? If they're open towards you then the model face is low IF you plan on working 1/2" thick stock or less. Yes? On the other hand as a working blacksmith you need to be able to adjust your hammer strikes to account for different stock thickness. You can't be changing your anvil height every time you change stock can you? Sure 2" is pretty darned thick stock but not if you're using a top tool, say a swage or chisel. Is it? A reasonably common stock STARTING thickness is 1/2" to 1/4" and every darned time you hit it it gets thinner and wider or longer. THAT is WHAT WE DO. Yes? As a practical matter the blacksmith MUST be able to adjust his strikes to match the project while he's working. That's just a matter of practice. If you are going to be working with top tools: swages, fullers, chisels top dies, flatters, etc, or on bottom tools: swages, fullers, dies, closed or spring dies etc. frequently, then you may want the anvil face closer to the lower knuckle height, as for strikers. So, I recommend you make some cheap lumber mock ups and see where YOU strike comfortably with a moderate, 2 lb. smooth faced hammer. Take into account what you'll be using as a stand. That's a LOT of heavy steel so you WILL want a stable safe stand that won't get in your way. Were I making the stand I'd probably torch a 2" diameter circle from 1/2" or a little thicker depending on what I had at hand or could buy cheap from a steel supplier's drops, (OLD timer tip!! As the guys in the yard NOT the counter!!) The guys at the counter have a minimum and cut charge they HAVE to charge. Yes? HOWEVER the guys in the yard are allowed to charge by the LB. and can cut to transport. Steel in the drop racks are often sold by the lb. at retail or scrap without the minimums. Okay, that's the old timer's tip for finding small quantities of steel plate and shapes. It also applies when you buy a couple 20' sticks of mild steel to practice with, say 1/2" round or 3/8" square mild. do NOT ask to have it cut to transport at the counter. The counter guy MUST charge per cut, usually in the $10 per cut range. The yard dogs just tick it on the say and whack it in half gratis. It keeps you from clamping it to your tail gate and cutting it with a hack saw. a 30 - 60 second job but you're in their way. Yes? Anyway, about a stand for a PRIMO anvil like your breaker bit a 24" diameter disk of 1/2" or a LITTLE thicker, 5/8" is't excessive but don't get silly okay? Weld your now trimmed breaker bit in the center and it's not going to fall over on your toe. and the stand won't trip you. Grind the edge at an angle if you catch your toe on it. No big deal yes? As a last thing I REALLY like about round plate stands like this is moving your anvil. Just tip it up on edge and roll it where you want it, Hmmm? Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Ditto Buzz. Any propane that doesn't burn in the forge will burn as dragon's breath and you will NOT smell the odorant. If you smell propane the fittings are leaking a little dish soap in water and applied to fittings will show you which one(s). Check everything including the regulator at the tank while under pressure. Flare fittings can have issues if you don't flare the right amount of tubing, too long is more a problem than a LITTLE to short. I recommend gas rated thread paste over tape. It does the same job but can't release particles that interfere or block gas jets down line. If a little paste gets pushed out of the threads it just sits there, it's sticky. I don't put thread dope (paste) on the mig tip it's IN the burner, any leakage can't go anywhere but in the fire so it's no hazard and too insignificant to effect burner efficiency. Make sense? Frosty The Lucky.
  9. You can't mix them too much, it's not like they'll turn to butter or something. The trick is to find the point of diminishing returns where increased drag exceeds the value the flame improvements. ( Shhhhhh, I'm being Cagey here Mike. The more folk wanting to prove us wrong the more likely we'll see something really sweet come down the pike and not have to do the work ourselves.) You are aware I can unscrew the T inducer off the NARB Plenum by hand, I don't even need a wrench. Right? I can adapt and adopt a cool mixer thingy fast and easy. Two of my favorite kinds of improvements you know. Frosty The Lucky.
  10. I don't know what's wrong with you Thomas, at that rate it'll be gone, zippo, pfft, nothing but a memory, in only 320 years! I have to say I would've liked to ask for a 30"- 32" length. Standing on end it'd right in MY happy anvil face zone. If it's not high carbon and spark testing would tell me enough, it'd be a prime candidate to lay two or three of hard face build up rod and lay another two passes of steel on stone hard facing rod for the final face. Grinding it smooth WILL be a job of work though, believe me. Still . . . The Gunter method's recommended Stoody rods are perfect, they're just not available to me here so I went with equivalent rods but can NOT for the life of me recall what. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. The best cure method according to the maker is to treat it just like hydraulic concrete. It water SETS, it does NOT DRY. These are two entirely different things. Read up on working, and curing a patio or shop floor. Portland cement, concrete and Kastolite set and cure very closely to the same in time and steps. Kastolite refers to concrete procedures as THE way to cure Kastolite for maximum strength and temperature rating. Except for water % details the comparison is across the boards close enough to the same as to be interchangeable. So, when it sets close it up in a 100% humidity atmosphere for up to 7 days. We do NOT need a max strength cure, we aren't subjecting it to the kinds of forces temps and atmospheric changes a commercial forging or scrap furnace does. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Not really, I've just been messing with the things longer. After spending crazy money for an All State oxy. prop. torch set and showing others how much better it worked than oxy. acet. I got a call from Lyle, the inventor and owner of All States, seems I was selling more sets than the guy he hired and we hit it off. That and the boxes of induction device information Cruz gave me gave me a leg up of trying to figure it all out myself. It's getting pretty exciting in the last couple years. Lots of guys are trying off the wall ideas and coming up with some darned effective burners. I haven't said anything so far, I've been proven wrong too many times and am gun shy but I don't think an enhanced mixer will do much if anything in the NARB. The inside of the plenum just screams extreme turbulence and I don't see anything but clean flames. Like I said though, I've been wrong so often I'm more surprised when I'm not. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. You butter with plain water or you CAN add a couple DROPS of Elmer's milk glue but I don't think it makes a difference with Kastolite, the stuff sticks to every darned thing. If you're applying 3/8" +/-- there's no need to sift out aggregate, it's there for a reason. I ONLY sift to fit into the small spaces between burner outlets in NARB or the one experiment using it as the binder in a kiln wash. You are NOT doing either, use it as mixed by the company. Be ready to move when you start mixing just stirring won't do the trick, you need to kneed it hard, I used a large stainless spoon and flipped and pressed very and over. When I do it again I'm going to make something to use like a pestle say 1" pipe with a cap so I can smash it then turn with a spoon and smash it. Don't be worried about getting it too wet, it doesn't take much water but a LITTLE too much is better than not being able to trowel it in. Just don't get carried away. Remember you only have about 25-30 minutes after you stop mixing before it begins to set up so don't dally around. Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Another beautiful piece Alexandr. Open or closed it's a work of precisely planned and executed art. How does your dog like it? Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Jack hammers don't make the right kind of impact though there are a couple guys who do hollow forming in steel plate with jackhammers. It'd be more practical Incorporating a roll forge and impact forge processes laying down a thick steel plate on a really solid floor and running over it with a vibratory roller. The kind used to compact road grades, yes? It'd be a neat video but . . . Frosty The Lucky.
  16. You're close enough to make Quad State and give a wide selection of forges a try. I assume there will be induction forges available too. If I could scrape up the lucre I'd do 90%+ of my heating with induction. Keep the gasser handy for need and the coal forge for demos but . . . No fumes, fast, Fast, FAST heat and as localized as you wish. Sounds like heaven to me. Charcoal is always available and making an air blast is silly easy, a paper bag works a treat. Frosty The Lucky.
  17. Different folks different techniques and opinions. As always YMMV Frosty The Lucky.
  18. Ah HAH we're typing at the same time! If I had a can I'd have to experiment and see if I could get it to harden up, otherwise I'd put it on a shelf in case I found something to do with it. I've had half a can for probably 20 years what I applied to my forge liner rubbed off probably 18-19 years ago. It stayed chalky and I'd have to look in deep seams or cracks to find any now. There's a lot of confusion about kiln washes, some think they're IR reflectors but they're actually re radiators. That means they conduct heat more slowly so they get hotter and then radiate the heat. Half goes back into the forge the other half goes into the liner. The "almost diamond hard" thing about ITC 100 relates to it's containing zirconium silicate which is almost diamond hard. The binder is kaolin clay and doesn't fire like pottery so it does not get hard. While it contains extremely hard particles the over all product doesn't get very hard. Please bear in mind the above is MY experience using the product and yes I followed the directions that came with it. I wouldn't buy another can if it were 1/4 the price. It's very effective for what it is formulated to do, act as a release agent in pottery kilns, it prevents glazes and pottery from firing to the kiln furniture. Either Plistex or Matrikote are excellent kiln washes for our purposes. They fire porcelain HARD to the walls of our forges, withstands the rapid thermal cycling a propane forge is famous for and is very resistant to: mechanical and chemical erosion. Scraping with work and being coated with welding flux. Some of us have played around with making high % zirconia silicate kiln washes. I added 3 pts Zircopax to 1 pt. sifted Kastolite 30 and it's ugly but has stayed the course for a couple years of occasional use. Other folk have had good results with approx less than 3% bentonite clay to 97% zircopax. He's using a clay called "Bentone" in the Netherlands but there are lots of clays in the bentonite group to play with. I've had interesting results plopping bentonite at toothpaste consistency directly in a yellow hot forge and it fired hard in about 5 minutes. The cool effect is it foamed as the water boiled out and it fired. I haven't figured out how to use that little effect though. Anyway, as you may have guessed we've been talking about forges, liners and washes a LOT. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. Frosty

    Barn Find

    But the cats track oil all over the place. I only tried filling the case to the "level" plug ONE time and that spot in the old tarp tent smithy is the only place with nothing growing on it. I'm betting an old school blower would be perfectly happy with a little dollop of bacon grease for lube. The things are from a time where "remote" machinery was intended to work well for decades on whatever was at hand. Heck, I've turned cranks on blowers that were dry as your yard and they just hummed around and made air. Any oil, no grit and they'll last centuries. eh? Frosty The Lucky.
  20. RR rail makes a fine anvil, especially on end. Take a look at Charles Stevens rail anvil thread, URL below. He shows many bottom tools you can grind into the web and flange, it's an eye opener of possibilities. The junctions between cap, web and flange are useful swages of different radius. Frosty The Lucky.
  21. Welcome aboard Alex, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many members live within visiting distance. Max laid out the proper order but I certainly would not spend the money for ITC 100, it just isn't effective nor durable enough to justify the price. Frosty The Lucky.
  22. Actually copper tubing and fittings are a lot less expensive than propane rated hose. The manifold on mine is 3/8" iron pipe because that's what propane hose couples are. Put the 1/4 turn shut off valves on the manifold so it there's a fire you don't have to reach into the fire or wait for the lines to empty using the tank valve. If you keep your eyes open at garage, yard, etc. sales you can find weed burners for cheap and as long as the hose is in good condition it's the right stuff. Certainly better than paying up to $30 for an 8' hose. Darned propane hose is the most expensive part of setting up a forge, regulators are cheaper than a safe length of hose. Yeah, I like being able to keep my propane tank a few feet away from the forge and have the hose laying flat on the ground. It's less of a trip hazard. I lucked into a road kill weed burner with a 10' hose in good condition. YMMV. Plumbing off the burners with iron pipe puts too much leverage against the jet mounts and tends to knock them out of alignment. Commercial forges run iron pipe between the burners as a manifold then T off to a hose connection. The problem with that set up is where you must put the 1/4 turn shut offs, directly on the burners so if there's a fire you have to wait for the lines to empty or reach into the fire. I like copper because it's soft and flexible. If someone trips or drops something on the hose the tubing just bends, isn't likely to break fittings and can't knock the forge off the stand. Copper doesn't care about the chimney effect, heat from a shut off burner may turn it old penny dark after a while but it won't cause it to fail. Sometimes I don't bother to block off the forge chamber or unused burner and let flame blow up and out. I know I should plug the burner as it becomes dangerously hot and folk don't think the burner should be nearly red hot but I'm almost always within screaming & swatting distance. Frosty The Lucky.
  23. Excellent anvil Adam, good score. Radius edges as you need a new radius. No reason to rush anything. Frosty The Lucky.
  24. Frosty

    Barn Find

    I oil mine with a couple drops of chainsaw bar oil, it's formulated to be both sticky and remain fluid at low temps. Then again the lowest temp you probably have to worry about is mid 30s in dead of winter. If I put 90w in mine it would be a solid block on cold days. If I put more than 1/4c in mine it runs out on the floor so work your way up to enough lube or you might find out how far oil will spread on a concrete or whatever you have, floor. Frosty The Lucky.
  25. Rescue dogs NEVER forget, thanks for saving Dudely. Aussies are good gate keepers and make good team mates for LGDs, I have some pretty emotional memories of our Great Pyrenees mtn. dogs. I'm alive because Libby a rescue Pyr got Deb's attention when I was hit by a falling tree. I have a T shirt that says, "Who rescued who?" Rescues RULE! Goats are my favorite livestock, Deb raised African Pygmies when we met and I miss the mischievous little stinkers. We never lost so much as a duckling to predators with Pyrs on duty. Shaun the Sheep. We rehomed our last sheep before I saw Shaun, too bad. Good save Bart, a Lab, Setter cross hard not to be a friendly dog. I don't know anything about Swiss Shephard dogs but he's a beauty. Shephards are a working breed so he WANTS, needs to work. Dogs are an excellent way to prevent your property from walking off with strangers. I believe that's a sweet looking Lap Setter you have there, or should I say has YOU. Frosty The Lucky.