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Everything posted by ThomasPowers

  1. As compared to firing a 7000 grain ball from my falconette? Fun to measure powder "by the handful".
  2. Crushed glass has been used and is easily sourced and worked with. (Dirt Daubers nests, rice straw ash, back when working real wrought iron; it's higher temperature tolerance allowed many different silica containing compounds to be used. One of the nice thing about borax is being able to remove it from the piece with boiling water, rather than chipping it off like glass.)
  3. As it is an animation you could portray the gas molecules any way the animator wanted.
  4. JF looks to be an owner's stamp to me. Nothing visible above the weight stamp?
  5. Ten minutes is a rough limit; I consulted on a project using cut nails as rivets to build a small viking faering. (They were having trouble annealing them; I sorted that out and went on to introduce some more "traditional" tools that worked better than modern ones for what they were doing.)
  6. By which time he will probably have sourced enough london pattern anvils to pave his smithy floor with them!
  7. If you only had a hammer and an anvil.... We have sand dunes out here and you could select finer sand wind or water sorted.
  8. With decent rebound at least US$300; with a rebound under 60% more like $150. Ohio tends to have cheaper anvil prices; at least during the 15 years I spent in Columbus. However the market is pretty high all over. How high you can get can depend on how it6's advertised and how long you can sit on it. Last Quad-State I saw several hundred old anvils for sale in Ohio. If you are not in a hurry you might wait and check anvils out at the next one. A bit faster would be to attend a meeting of an ABANA Affiliate; there were a couple in OH IIRC. Probably find some knowledgeable people and mayhap a market for it!
  9. ThomasPowers

    Fulton vise?

    Well that depends on the condition and the LOCATION neither of which you have provided.
  10. "Where do I get some?"---------Check with Timothy
  11. Or every 5 years mill a quarter of an inch off. (Boy suggesting milling an anvil's face seems WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!)
  12. Used to be Meehanite; I don't know what changes may have been done lately.
  13. The extra carbon is also an oxygen scavenger. However I think that sounds like way too much for most alloys. I recall folks using brake lathe turnings *shoveled* onto a particularly weird billet to help to get it to weld in a very very messy trial. I have come to the opinion that a lot of the functions of flux can be replaced by using Dumbo's Magic Feather and excellent process control.
  14. One of the neat things about using a charcoal forge for armouring---besides being "traditional"---is that you can localize heat by placing the area of interest over the hot spot in the forge and putting a shovelful of hot coals on the upside right in that area and it will glow and the rest won't so much. The downside is that most armour is curved and seems to make an excellent IR emitter that is focused on your tong hand. Having some weirdly bent tongs---like wagon tyre tongs---can help a lot.
  15. Heating for normalization or were you working hot?
  16. Of course coal has only been used for smithing less than 1000 years; charcoal has been used more than double that!
  17. Inefficient and difficult to apply pressure for rolling and then syncopate it. What is it that you want to accomplish that is not being done in the rolling?
  18. My part of the USA specializes in cheap and rugged not "aesthetically pleasing". For example the carport at my rental house is held up by 6 old wooden utility poles with a corrugated steel roof screwed down to the wooden beams running between them. We hit 100 kph winds pretty much every year and it's still here. *UGLY* but still here. (I have a postvise attached to one of the creosoted utility poles holding up the carport roof, recycled poles are a common building material out here---my shop extension at my house uses 20 40' ones I cut in half to get 4 20' ones. They last a long time out here in the desert!)
  19. Old machinery with "flow through" oiling is great for keeping the dust down on dirt shop floors! I've seen some hand crank blowers with a pan of kitty litter under them after their owner over oiled them.
  20. I thought about that too; but a 250# he won't be flipping it often! I remember Honest Bob Cruikshank (sp?) demoing at SOFA using a piece of round shaft as an anvil. He had a stump carved so he could use it standing on end for the flat or laying on it's side making a lovely curve to draw against.
  21. 90 weight is way too heavy anywhere that gets chilly! "Light machine oil" is what I use---in fact the squeeze bottles they sell for oiling swamp cooler bearings. I get a new one every year and the old one(s) go to lubing post vises and hand crank blowers. Also check that film; if it's "sticky" you probably want to clean it off and refresh it.
  22. I use Glen's method but in a non-volatile storage---I use a pen. Working in Software Engineering I tell the young engineers that's it's been all downhill since they made us stop using damp clay tablets and a reed!
  23. I always figured that if they didn't post a location they were offering free international shipping! This is the World Wide Web after all---(what the www stands for in the address.)