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I Forge Iron

ThomasPowers

2021 Donor
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Everything posted by ThomasPowers

  1. I'd guess bolts into the shaft of the T.
  2. Yes, *good* coal cokes up into "chunks". Yes, the center of the fire burns out leaving a void. For open fire welding you can just pull coke in from the sides. For closed fire welding you can take your slice and shove it down along the sides breaking the coke up and driving it to the middle while maintaining the "cap" and following up by adding fresh coal where needed. In general; for a coal fire you want to build it up towards the end of the day to make sure you have a goodly amount of coke ready to build the next fire! Letting the fire burn down is a false economy as it makes the next fire take so much longer to get to using state.
  3. Hard firebrick is a MASSIVE heat sink and should not be used for a forge that will not be run continuously for large periods of time---say months. I read your question as being similar to "My car has 4 flat tires, what can I do to my engine to get it to go 60 mph" The answer of course is to fix what is wrong rather than mess with what is right.
  4. Even camping I tend to wear a lighter knife; I guess having made it, I'm not afraid to work it hard as I can always make another!
  5. In general I find I carry and use knives more the lighter they are and so "just heavy enough to do their job" is what I aim for.
  6. I like the cookie info sites that say "if we don't store your info; how can we direct ads at you?" As pretty much the only places I "shop" at is the fleamarket and scrapyard I don't see why having directed ads is useful. (I'm currently really down on ads as they make people think they should or have to be "living" like they portray and so I know someone basically making minimum wage that just spent thousands of dollars on their wedding and the loans may last longer than the marriage! Just the flower bill was 4 times what my wedding cost, we've made it 37 years so far and starting out without a huge debt helped a LOT!)
  7. Welcome, (from down close to the US/Mexico border), I have fond memories of welding up a pattern welded steel billet at a Freilichtmuseum, Bad Windsheim back in the later 1990's. Have you looked into working with a Museum group of smiths yet? I remember visiting a water run industrial smithy, now a museum, that still did demos in Lauf auf der Pegnitz; but they wouldn't let a nonmember forge due to restrictions.
  8. You can also hold the match in a pair of tongs to lite the forge: Light match and place in tongs, hold in front of door while opening the gas valve on the tank, Cackle (optional).
  9. With a bit of help you can twist even larger stock when it's hot!
  10. Well the metallurgists consider it a solid phase weld and I've seen Billy Merritt weld at temps I would consider too cold for proper forging. The 2300 degF commonly given as welding temp is several hundred degrees below melting temp. "The Solid Phase Welding of Metals", Tylecote, has a lot of information on how it actually works. I was first taught to weld, (by an ABS MS), to see the stuff molten on the surface; but I don't know if that is steel or molten scale or ?. Removing that liquid doesn't prevent welding---which it does when welding with torch or arc... (If I recall correctly aren't you a sling it off before welding person?)
  11. Yes the old texts are like that; I enjoy reading the "disposable apprentice methods" to my shop minions---like XXXXXXXX; hmmm not even going to explain that in public---stupidly dangerous! I'll start saving my change to buy a copy when it comes out.
  12. Looks to me like it's running too high and not enough coal stacked up as it is. Don't know how a bigger one will improve things. Have you been to affiliate meetings and seen how other folks run their coal forges?
  13. If you are using Google Chrome have you made use of the "Opt Outs" also when a site talks about cookies do you always go and turn off as much as possible?
  14. I don't end up with that; but I do have to do several weld runs just on the tip. I talked with my neighbor and he said I could go collect rusty old barbwire on his land so I have some now to work on my Christmas gifts, it's pretty corroded though.
  15. Big slab would make a nice upsetting plate on the floor of the shop. Got out to the scrapyard Friday morning and they were closed; called and they said they were running errands and would be open about the time I would be 50 miles down the road.
  16. Stainless costs more to buy, forge and finish, the last two because it takes more work. Brass will be expensive to buy and most brasses don't forge so that lets blacksmith's out. While that's not a big job for a professional smith; their time is more expensive as they are paying for the tooling and education. I'd look for a hobby smith. Did you check with BABA for smiths in your area? Note cost of materials can be surprising; when I was working for a professional swordmaker; we would get people wanting to buy a sword but wanting to pay the price we would buy the high tech steel at.
  17. Weygers did a lot of chisel making as he also sculpted in wood and stone and he taught tool making as well; so he may have gotten more use out of his V block system.
  18. Your could forge some nice supports for the barrel and fasten them to the legs or even the utility pole.
  19. Got a publication date nailed down yet?
  20. Actually I would have suggested using the round piece vertically for the anvil and making it more of a stake anvil with the horn and hardy area added. The working area of the anvil is where there is steel from top to bottom; so filling in the sides will help.
  21. Now you got me thinking. I had been planning to arc weld up some horse shoe pumpkins; but I doubt I will have power in time. However I could forge out the ends of the shoes flatten and punch a hole in them and make a horse shoe pumpkin that can have the horse shoes moveable so you could spread them out for display and move them together for storing...
  22. Sure looks like it has a forge welded on face plate---which is good. Several brands used cast steel bases that were welded to the upper section at various times. Any chance the R was arc welded on? (Any chance of getting a picture of the underside of the base and no numbers on the front of the foot under the horn?) In my opinion: if the ring and rebound is good; the anvil is good no matter who made it. If the ring and/or rebound is bad then it's a bad anvil no matter who made it. If you need to get to town; is a Mercedes with a blown engine better than a working Ford pickup?
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