Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Daswulf

  • Rank
    Just Your Imagination

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Skype
    Daswulf Dinzel

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
      Charleroi PA.

Recent Profile Visitors

9,968 profile views
  1. There are a Lot of people out there that have been buying rolls, going through them looking for silvers then exchanging them for years. Probably more a rarity to find them anymore. The one you got might be because they were looking for 1964 and older.
  2. Yeah the old in ground lifts were all getting replaced when I was starting. Newer shops obviously didn't have them. The first shop I worked at had a few. The one in the body shop section was a single post. I remember the older tech telling me how one weekend the boss had his 69 Camaro up on it to remove the rear differential. Well, weight distribution and bracing is important on a lift. When he removed the differential suddenly the front had more of the weight and down it went onto the front end.
  3. You definitely don't want a leaky gas tank when you are practically sitting on it. The parts for this jeep were pricey. I'm hoping they last the same mileage as the originals.
  4. Yup, most floor Jack's could use a little more "up". I remember some old ones at my trade school that would lift high. They were also long and looked like something out of ww2 military surplus. Lol. That was when I did whitness the importance of jack stands. One student had a car jacked up with only the floor jack. He was laying under it on his back working on something. Some other students were hanging around and talking. On was leaning on the floor jack handle. Well as he was talking he was bebobing with "that" knob on the end of it. Well, that was the release knob. And yup, the car cam
  5. Nice RP. They have their uses and are handy to have. Try some painters masking tape around the hardy stem. It will snug it up in the hole and bounce around less. It doesnt last long with installing and removing the tool but it will work when you need it more steady. Just try with one wrap first then see if it is more snug. Repeat the wrap untill it fits more snug and wiggles less. I prefer masking tape over duct tape. It's easier to remove when it needs redone or just needs removed, and it is less likely to get the tool more stuck in the hardy hole. Another better tape than duct t
  6. That jack was given to me by a guy that taught me a lot on bodywork back when I started. It's a true workhorse. They seemed to fall from style when you couldn't jack up a car from the front bumper anymore. Funny enough it is still good for jacking up a car from the rocker pinchwelds and usually can reach the jack points. (Strengthened sections meant for lifting, since not all of the pinchweld area is strong enough to lift from and would crush under the weight.) <--- just for those that might not know. But unlike regular floor jacks with their 4 wheels, this one doesn't roll as the car
  7. Normally they would be there with just using a normal hydraulic jack. This bumper jack is securely mounted to the frame and has a mechanical lock, much like a lift. It is lowered to lock the mechanism into the notch. It has to be jacked back up to release the mechanical lock then while holding that open it can be released back down. I've used this jack many of times previously being double cautious using jack stands but it is very stout and secure. If I were to be laying under the vehicle I would double up the protection with jack stands but I trust this particular jack with the mechanical lo
  8. Yesterday, today and atleast tomorrow evenings I've been/will be rebuilding the front suspension of my jeep. Money has been tight and I've been dealing with a Very annoying death wobble around 40mph. Time to get it done. Almost all lower steering components, wheel bearings and upper and lower ball joints. New tires on the way as well. Then an alignment. Will be adding more rust proofing while I'm into it. My area is rough with rusting/rotting so if I can keep the frame and body from rotting out, the rest is replaceable or rebuildable. Doing collision work for a living I see the pr
  9. I agree with what Frosty said. The twist on the handle needs atleast the edges broke and a better loop and finial. The decorative twists should be in the length not so much the working end. And the working end needs a point and a nice 90° bend, or a more "traditional" or recognizable end. Either way, as Frosty said the handle comfort and shape/style is important to selling the work. You can sell a poker for $40.or more Easily if it is Aesthetically pleasing and functional.
  10. Can you buy gift cards for that store? I'm not positive but you might be able to buy a gift card for the amount you need to use for an online purchase.
  11. Looks like cast iron. What does the rebound rest show? Maybe the biggest cast iron anvil shaped object I've ever seen unless it is cast steel. The shape doesn't give me hope for you that it is cast steel and not cast iron. It might be ok if it does have a steel faceplate but it looks more like a fully cast anvil to me. Rebound test will show if it is a good usable anvil or an ASO.
  12. Alexandr, awesome work. Love the office look. Looks like something I'd love.
  13. You kneaded it very nicely. Beautiful work on that special steel.
  14. I've done that plenty of times. Could use it but offer it for sale for someone that might want it more. If not well, more fodder for the forge or scrapart. Where business and liability are concerned, they rather buy new. And often would scrap something and get about nothing when you could use it and offer them more. Again all that fancy liability mumbo jumbo. My work scrapped a perfectly good car lift for whatever their reason. Got very little for it when they were offered more for it from a couple techs. There have been a few times like that.
  • Create New...