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What did you do in the shop today?

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Thanks guys! 

Actualy das you have me tempted cause I'm really not a fan of this hammer. I may give it to someone. Recently I have just really not been pleased with my work it's starting to get in my nerves. At then kinda like well if you don't like it should you sell it, give it away, keep it as a shop hammer, or scrap it. I already got a few in the scrap pile. 

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When you start feeling that way ask opinions. You may find that what you are making (if structurally/functionally sound) is indeed worth selling, and you are just expecting more from yourself. Thats not a bad thing but don't overlook the value of a quality too you have made even if it doesn't meet where you are trying to get to. 

I also wouldnt turn it down and would trade for more axe heads or whatever i can dig up that you might have use for.  lol....

Finished up order for Christmas table center piece

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I bet that would give a very interesting texture. It also makes me want to see the matching swage. ;) 

58er, that wreath is stunning. Fantastic work!

Friday the scrapyard was open---and had "black Friday pricing---18 cents a pound! I picked up 111 pounds including a lodge cast iron frying pan, another old hand saw to cut up into billet strips and wonders of wonders the section of square tubing I've needed to mount a 6" post vise in the middle of the driveway! 36" long, heavy wall and I have a section of sq tubing that will nest in it (Highway sign support and one that will nest in it too for greater rigidity).  So if I have any shop time Christmas I will start digging the hole in the driveway.  Plan is to bury the 36" long largest tube even with the surface of the driveway and concrete it in. Then when needed the two nested tubes get slid into it and the 6" vise mounted to them.  Then I can do some projects where I need to run around the vise with a 20' stick without running into anything! 

Didn't pick up the old cable tool drill bit as it was probably 150 to 200# of steel itself.  Would make a good improvised anvil though the "heels" were pretty thick.

Oh yes; today the electrician came out after church and discussed putting power to the shop, He had some great ideas and will get back to me with a quote. (Yes power to the shop is one of the pre retirement projects.)

The mother of all gazintas. 

18 hours ago, VaughnT said:

The only thing I would have suggested different would have been to drill a 3/4" hole in the base plate and chisel through a few radial lines.  Then you could have drifted the hole open larger, driving the "spikes" out much like you see when a rifle round punches through some sheet metal.  Insert the tentacle, weld from the back, and then glue on some felt or leather to hide the joint.  It would look like the tentacle was breaching through and you'd have a convenient way to hide the joint with a scratch-free surface.  Love those suckers on the tentacles. 

Thanks!

Your suggestion is actually exactly what I am thinking about for a multi tentacle piece out of smaller diameter material.  I didn't think about doing it for this one, but looking back, maybe I should modify it.....

A cheap buz box from horrible freight or used off craigslist would be all you need for this... Maybe even Flux core.

13 hours ago, Daswulf said:

That's one heavy duty headphone hanger. Awesome work. It is a lot of work moving that size material by hand. 

Love the idea for the backing plate Vaughn. 

Thanks too! It was a ton of work for sure. I said I wouldn't do it again, but I probably will...

I also like Vaughn's idea too. I'll update if I revise this one...

4 hours ago, 58er said:

Finished up order for Christmas table center piece

That is some seriously nice work!

 

Thank you guys 

58, that wreath centre piece is magnificent. The amount of bending, weaving and tweaking would have been awesome. A real masterpiece.

Ausfire. Thanks you.very kind of you. But Not as hard as it appears. 

Spent the usual Black Friday at the forge.  Gratefully raining in the Bay Area, so dodging drips in front of the gas forge till the propane ran out.

Made a couple of hooks, paw/leash for dog people, big hook from a big nail for a co worker. Found a space for the dragon, on top of the case forge (he was going to be a gate handle but he "bites" a little too much for that)

The coal forge is under a leaky section of roof and I have concerns about rain water and coal ash destroying my firepot, so it stays covered in the rain till I can fix the roof/chimney junction.

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Very cool dragon

I noticed my mother had broke her tp holder the other day when I visited for Thanksgiving.  The cedar board is a leftover I found in her father's shop when he passed a few years ago.  

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That is cool.. I really like it..  Some hand wrought nails would make it that just much better.. 

Kilroy1221,

Nice and simple.

 if I might suggest : the next time you go at your mother's, you might change the screws for black ones such as can be had at Lee Valley's for instance. Then it would be perfect.

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Both really good ideas.  I'm glad y'all like it. I might get some black screws, that cedar is really bad about splitting.  She was coming over today on her lunch break to see her new grandbaby so I made it in about two hours.  I was proud of it.  First "inside the house" item I have tried to make.  It convinced me that I need a handy pile of smaller stock to play with, so I don't have to draw down a piece of rebar. 

Top pic.

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3 hours ago, Killroy1221 said:

that cedar is really bad about splitting.

Pre-drill your holes. If you want the screw to pass through the cedar and into something else, pick a drill bit that's just about the same size as the outside diameter of the screw. If you want the screw to anchor in the cedar, pick a drill bit that's just under the size of the internal shank, so that the wood will compress around the threads as you twist the screw in.

Most splintery woods will benefit from pre-drilling, as will especially hard woods. Any time you put a screw very close to the end of the board, pre-drill to minimize the risk of splitting the board.

Even after drilling a proper sized hole, if your screw goes in tightly, rub a tiny bit of wax or bar soap on it. Goes in more smoothly that way.

Mr. Arkie,

Sir,

I must,  respectfully,  disagree about using soap as a lubricant for metal attachment means.

Soap is hygroscopic. That means that it absorbs water vapor from the air. Such water corrodes iron (also steel, etc.). That iron slowly becomes rust with its attendant corrosion.

(it also stains wood).

Oil or wax is a better choice for such lubrication.

(I have used ear wax on the very rare occasion when there was no wax to hand and I was in a hurry).

Most smithy's and machine shops have some oil or grease to hand, (or cooking oil from the kitchen).

Arkie sir,

I hope that we are still friends.

SLAG.

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