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About olydemon

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    Olympia, Wa

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  1. olydemon

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Thanks! No effect just for a nice color.
  2. olydemon

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Made this opener from some 1/2" mild steel square bar. To get more material on the opener end I did a few rounds of upsetting the end to add bulk. I punched the hole in 2 heats. This is a pretty good improvement for myself. It used to take me like 5+ heats. Once drifted and shaped, I started to work on the chiseled lines. I was thinking I may try a cube twist, but I was running out of time for the night so I just decided to twist the lines.... and since I was on a reverse twist theme with my plant hook I did it again on this. At first I wasn't totally happy, but I gave it a bit more twist and it ended up looking pretty cool. Then to give it a little more flare I drew the tail down and curled it up. Finished with heat temper and a beeswax coating.
  3. olydemon

    What did you do in the shop today?

    I tried to redo my failed fire poker forge weld, and failed again. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I gave up for the night. Didn't even have the energy to take photos to try to show the failure. After that, I made a plant hook today with a reverse twist....or should I say Twists.... There is a local antique shop that wants me to make some items for them to have in their shop. The owner said she is asked for plant hangers all the time, so I figured I'd try to make a few. I wanted the top bend to be a bit more round, but I was fighting getting it right. I plan to make a bending jig to help keep them even. Also made a bottle opener, but I will post that one to the BO thread.
  4. I don't follow. you said it was NOT in contact. Did you mean to say that it was in contact? It so, you are probably right. As stated before I've never had an issue with what bits of copper are left in the forge from accidentally letting a piece melt once. Thanks for the time to reply, and hopefully help me learn. It was just plain mild steel from a local steel supplier, not home improvement store.. I would guess A36 if I remember correct. Ambient light? Pretty bright I would say. I often have issues when its too dark seeing other things. Most all of these photos are pretty true to my shop lighting.
  5. The part was not sparkling at all. It was a bright yellow.
  6. So does this mean, even If I kept the piece off the floor, the fumes inside the forge would still contaminate my piece?
  7. You are correct that there must still be some copper in the forge. Ive tried scraping it out and it hasnt been much of a problem untill recently trying to forge weld. I wonder if the borax caused the copper to pool up in the slurry the borax creates? I always seem to regret using borax for a few weeks after. I only have 1 forge, but am working in a 2 burner one I would like to have setup to FW in. Thats interesting I will have to give that a read.
  8. Propane. Single burner, 1" wool lining with hard fire brick floor.
  9. So I've managed to forge weld a few things with ok results (other than totally corrupting my forge floor with flux). The other night I tried to FW a fire poker for the first time and ended up failing miserably. It seemed everything was going pretty well at the beginning. I did hit it on the side and I think it split a little, but it was holding together. I got it bent up and thought I would put another twist in it. This is where it all went bad. I just felt the piece tear rather than twist. I thought I could maybe save it by welding (cheating I know)... but I decided to just break it off since the poker was probably too long anyways, and I figure I can try it again. Inspecting the failed end, I could see a bunch of copper on it. Long story short, a while back I melted some copper by accident and once in a while i get it transferred to my parts, often with cool results so I don't generally worry about it. I was able to rip apart a section of the weld by hand so Obviously it wasn't totally right. You can see in the photo showing the split, there is copper down inside between the layers. That contamination aside (I already have a plan to keep the next one off the floor), I'm more concerned about the torn stock. Is this from overheating? Basically did I burn it up? The only other time I've had my material looking like this was trying to make a Rail Spike hawks twice.. (last 3 photos). On these failures I split the eye then it cracked drifting it out. The failed area looked exactly like the fire poker failure. So it this material crumbling and cracking a result of over heating?
  10. olydemon

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Thanks! The middle 2 are in fact old socket wrenches that had chipped ratchets so they didnt work well. Yes, Bizarre old ladies making tiny felt replicas of their corgies...
  11. olydemon

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Scored a big bag of random tools recently, and also had some broken socket wrenches so tonight I took 2 of each and made some bottle openers.... The 5/8" open ended wrenches are nice to work with since there is no punching and drifting needed. I basically flatten them down, then work the ring down on the horn of my little anvil till they fit the bottle. The broken sockets took a little more work. The craftsman one had the internals that wouldn't come out so I just cut the end off,but I still had plenty of material to mash down before punching. The knurled handled one the internals popped out easy and I was left with a nice ring to flatten like the box wrenches. I finished them off with a brass brushing and beeswax. These are going to make their way to a craft bizarre next weekend.
  12. olydemon

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Thanks! Your suggestion is actually exactly what I am thinking about for a multi tentacle piece out of smaller diameter material. I didn't think about doing it for this one, but looking back, maybe I should modify it..... A cheap buz box from horrible freight or used off craigslist would be all you need for this... Maybe even Flux core. Thanks too! It was a ton of work for sure. I said I wouldn't do it again, but I probably will... I also like Vaughn's idea too. I'll update if I revise this one... That is some seriously nice work!
  13. olydemon

    What did you do in the shop today?

    Completed a gift for my oldest son. He wanted a hanger from Amazon for his headphones. Why buy when I can make. I had started this project a few weeks ago (had to let my arm heal as you will see why...) The starting stock was 1.25" 4140 round bar about 7.5" long. I drew this out by hand to a point about 14" long, leaving the original stock size at base. Process photos in the link show drawing it out and some sucker welding pics. Once the taper was finished, I welded the beads on and then let my arm rest for a week.... haha... actually this was last Sunday and I generally only forge on the weekends. Yesterday I finished the suckers, and then put a curve to it as much as I could. The 4140 is really tough to bend after its about .75" diameter, but It worked well for the hanger hook. I also forged out the base from some 3/16 x 4 square giving it a star shape with some texture. I didn't want to have exposed weld bead at the base, so I drilled a couple holes in the back to weld the 2 pieces together. Worked out well, and I think he will be stoked. The Imgur album for the rest of the photos.. https://imgur.com/a/MWfRrRG
  14. olydemon

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    The other end was the box end. I was worried the teeth would make it crack when drawing out the ring. Thank you! I'm hoping my wife can sell them at her craft table coming up for the holidays. I've given her pendants and leaved to sell with little luck. I think I need something practical to sell, hopefully to the bored husbands dragged out to craft bazaars.
  15. olydemon

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    Spent some time this weekend making openers... I feel like I'm finally getting better at even(ish) loops and cap hooks. Each opener I make gets tested by holding a full bottle by the cap. L to R- Random pattern from 3/16 x 3/4 scrap. 5/8 wrench with a twist. Old thick file. Random beach salvaged bolt from old piers, possibly wrought iron (according to the person who gifted the material).