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About olydemon

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    Olympia, Wa

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  1. I've bought stainless screws to make pendants from. I figure there is no coating on them and when its finished it shouldn't rust.
  2. Thank you! Thank you. Its also a great lesson on handling small items... I think the screws were probably 3".
  3. Made some more horn pendants today from stainless screws. One of them ended up looking like some sort of dragon so I punched an eye to finish it off.
  4. I have but I found that I distorted the suckers a lot more when I tried to form the pendant loops...
  5. JHCC posted the exact video I would have. Only things I can add are... 1. After I weld the beads I heat the piece up again and flatten them down. It helps to create a nice spot to start the punch. 2. A helper when punching really helps makes the job easier. I have a jig I can use for the larger tentacles, like on the octopus I posted. But for these little pendant ones,. they are too samll for the jig so I get my oldest kid to help.
  6. Thanks! Made some more tentacle pendants posted below..... Thanks! Today I made tentacles, a leaf, a tiny troll cross and a bear claw... and finished the gas lines to my double burner forge...
  7. Really cool, it's almost a mixed media piece with the laser cut flat and forged tentacles. I need to make some tentacles this weekend for an etsy custom order.. Mine will be pendant size this time, but my last tentacle project was rather large... made from 3/8" and 1/2" bar.... ALSO.... (edit to add note since my reply to previous and a new post were merged) Not done today, but last weekend... Lots of pendants made from old screws....
  8. I have only treated a few with beeswax to protect from rust. The idea of coloring the low spots does sound interesting, may have to give it a try. Beads is a good idea. I was also thinking of drilling a few holes through the eyes, then smashing some copper wire into the holes.
  9. Yea, basically a bit of both. I start by rounding the top some, then I go at the bottom of the jaw over the anvil. The last thing that gives some shape is punching the eyes.
  10. This weekend I worked on some blockhead style skulls. 3 are made from 4140 and 2 made from some random splitting wedge that was in my garage. I usually make smaller pendent sized skulls so trying these larger ones was a fun challenge. The chunks of 1 inch x 1.5 inch 4140 sure takes a lot more effort to work than the 3/16" mild flat bar I am used to. I also made some spirals out of spring steel to later be bunched like a plant, then welded into a large gear as a base for future yard art.
  11. So a few months back I posted about failing trying to forge weld a fire poker. The consensus was that I either over heated it, or I had copper contamination in my forge (or both). I believe the copper has since been cleaned/burnt out of my forge so the other day I gave it another try. This time it worked with 2 things I made sure to do during the process. First, I filed the scale off to bare metal after the initial tapering of the poker end before bending to weld. Also once I started the process I didn't hit it on the side. I think last time my weld may have been weakened by hitting it on the side to even up the joint after it had slipped sideways. I didn't get a full length shot, but here are the 2 ends. The handle side just has a basic loop and reverse twist. The hook end also has a long one direction twist with it being round stock for the middle section, not shown in the photos. I know its not as fancy as others posted in this thread, but it feels good to finally get the weld figured out. Next one I will try to get a bit more fancy on the details.
  12. Made this opener from some 1/2" mild steel square bar. To get more material on the opener end I did a few rounds of upsetting the end to add bulk. I punched the hole in 2 heats. This is a pretty good improvement for myself. It used to take me like 5+ heats. Once drifted and shaped, I started to work on the chiseled lines. I was thinking I may try a cube twist, but I was running out of time for the night so I just decided to twist the lines.... and since I was on a reverse twist theme with my plant hook I did it again on this. At first I wasn't totally happy, but I gave it a bit more twist and it ended up looking pretty cool. Then to give it a little more flare I drew the tail down and curled it up. Finished with heat temper and a beeswax coating.
  13. I tried to redo my failed fire poker forge weld, and failed again. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I gave up for the night. Didn't even have the energy to take photos to try to show the failure. After that, I made a plant hook today with a reverse twist....or should I say Twists.... There is a local antique shop that wants me to make some items for them to have in their shop. The owner said she is asked for plant hangers all the time, so I figured I'd try to make a few. I wanted the top bend to be a bit more round, but I was fighting getting it right. I plan to make a bending jig to help keep them even. Also made a bottle opener, but I will post that one to the BO thread.
  14. I don't follow. you said it was NOT in contact. Did you mean to say that it was in contact? It so, you are probably right. As stated before I've never had an issue with what bits of copper are left in the forge from accidentally letting a piece melt once. Thanks for the time to reply, and hopefully help me learn. It was just plain mild steel from a local steel supplier, not home improvement store.. I would guess A36 if I remember correct. Ambient light? Pretty bright I would say. I often have issues when its too dark seeing other things. Most all of these photos are pretty true to my shop lighting.