Jump to content
I Forge Iron


2021 Donor
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JHCC

  1. TPAAAT = Thomas Powers Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique. In a nutshell, tell every single person you come into contact with what you’re looking for and ask if they know of any such available.
  2. The only standard thing about a tap handle (technically a "faucet handle", apparently) is that it have a 3/8"-16 UNC internal thread. Beyond that, the sky is the limit. For example, here is one of my plasticine sketches for a simple model:
  3. That’s a nice lookin’ chunk o’ steel, Tim. I suppose you could cut a half-cylindrical recess in the top of the stump, pop the billet off the bolt, and lay it on its side to use as a big fuller.
  4. Tim, have you put a photo of it in the improvised anvils thread? If not, please do!
  5. You are quite welcome! The downside to big hoods is that they can take a while to start drawing well. What pulls the smoke up the stack is the upward-moving column of warm air, and the problem with a big hood (as Glenn notes) is that they are taking in air from a very large area. The great thing about a side-draft hood is that it's pulling the smoke through a much smaller opening much closer to the fire itself, so it doesn't take nearly as much to get that column of air moving. (There's also something of a Venturi effect going on with the cross section of inside of the hood being larger than the opening, which helps increase the velocity of the moving gasses.) You can even jumpstart the draft by putting a piece of burning newspaper inside the hood right before you light the fire. For example, here's a video of the very first coal fire with my own super sucker (made from a party balloon helium tank); you can really see how strong the draft is right from the beginning: This setup, by the way, is running off a 250mm (10") stack with a couple of 90° bends.
  6. First things first: your 200mm (7") stack is WAY too small. Whatever combination of circumstances led it to work well in your previous setup was a one-in-a-million shot, and you got very lucky. Get your stack up to 250-300mm (10-12") before you do anything else. Until you do that, fiddling with the hood is a total waste of time. Personally, I recommend a side-sucker hood, but if you want a large overhead hood, that should work fine IF you get your stack up to a proper size. And yes, anything much over 300mm (12") is not going to draw well and would be a waste of money and material.
  7. I would strongly suggest that you start with mild steel dies for at least the first couple of hammers. Once you've experienced what a total pain it would be to do all that work with a hand hammer and a guillotine, you might reconsider the "no power hammer" thing, and you won't have invested a lot of money in tool steel.
  8. Welcome to IFI! You should put your location in your profile settings, as we probably won't remember Yorkshire once it gets buried in a thread. I don't have any answers to your questions, other than to recommend you contact local dealers to see what they charge and what their refill policies are. With any luck, some of our UK members will be along soon to offer UK-based advise. Good luck!
  9. UPDATE: Spoke with a nice young man at Victor's customer service department, who shared my puzzlement at the absence of TEN tip pressure settings on the website. However, he did email me a chart of the appropriate pressure settings and flow rates. The short version is that all sizes of TEN tip take 5 psi in fuel (either propane or natural gas) and 15 psi of O₂. Credit where credit is due: that was one of the fastest, most efficient, and most informative calls I've ever had with anyone's customer service anywhere. Well done, Victor.
  10. Okay, so NOT punch a hole all the way through, but to forge the circular recess? Can you give us a picture of the tooling, so that we can see how it's deforming?
  11. Sorry, I'm not getting what you're saying. What are the dimensions of your starting piece and what are the desired dimensions of the piece you are trying to make?
  12. Will you be changing your moniker to "twotreeforge"?
  13. I like that video, but the part where he clamps both reins in the vise and then sticks a round bar between the jaws and twists them baffles me. If you think about it, all you need to do is to move each jaw slightly sideways, so that it centers on the centerline of the tongs. That’s nothing more than a simple offset, which can be done with an old-school adjustable wrench. Clamping just the rein of the half you’re adjusting keeps the joint from getting twisted. Spot heating with a torch or quenching the bosses can isolate the bending to right where you want it.
  14. Update: I found an eBay listing for a "VICTOR TEN-5 Propane/Natural Gas Brazing / Welding Tip". I wasn't able to see from the listing if it would fit my WH411 torch, but decided to take a gamble, especially since (A) "TEN-5" is a Victor designation for a propane-compatible brazing tip and (B) the price (including shipping) was less than a new tip by itself. When it arrived today, I discovered that it DOES fit the torch, but I'm not sure if all of it is indeed Victor. The stem is stamped "BGN-6", which seems to be an American Torch Tip 6" gooseneck, and the mixer is stamped "1-W", which seems to reference the "W" series nozzles that fit the 100 & 400 series torches. I still need to get another tank of O₂, so I haven't had a chance to fire it up yet, but things look good so far. What I'm having trouble with is finding any official Victor chart of pressure settings for propane brazing with a TEN tip. I've contacted Victor to see if they have any helpful info.
  15. My very first anvil is back in my possession after almost four decades of my mom using it as a paperweight.
  16. Also took a gamble on an eBay listing for a propane-rated brazing nozzle for the torch. The gamble appears to have paid off; at very least, the nozzle fits the torch handle. If memory serves, the first thing I attempted to forge with this was a piece of coat hanger wire heated in a candle flame.
  17. Was visiting my mom last week, and she gave me a box of stuff that turned out to include my very first anvil from when I was a kid.
  18. Oh, I’ve still got a ton that need to be recut and spliced. I’ll certainly have plenty of opportunities to give this method a try.
  19. Just ran across an interesting video about splicing grinder belts. The maker has what looks like a decent method for using the cloth of the belt for the splice; take a look: Note: there's no narration, so you can skip the cheesy background music by muting the sound. Doubling the playback speed is also recommended, as you won't be missing any important detail.
  20. Ah, it was over thirty years ago. I think I can let it go now. Thanks for helping me work through this.
  21. Bandsaw blades are often made from 15N20 or something similar; pallet strapping is usually a simple high-carbon steel. The latter etches to a dark gray, while the former stays bright.
  • Create New...