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Reflinghaus #58 460lbs

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My Dream anvil arrived in great unscathed condition.. 

The trailer truck was like I hope you have a fork lift.  I told him not to worry because I had a guy with a forklift on his tractor coming, then proceeded to back up the overhead crane trailer and off it came.  Total time to unload it 8minutes and change.. 

I then mentioned what I did and he was pretty interested so handed him my card and the information for both the NEB and ABANA. 

So, I moved it into the trailer but will take photo's tomorrow. It started to rain and I wanted to get grass seed down on the new shop area. 

For those with inquiring minds about the rebound thing.. Everywhere but the very tip of the round horn is about 92%+. 

The 275 Peddinghaus is a tad better but dies on the horn about 1/2 way out. 

I'll shoot some video of the rebound and such in a few days. 





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Pure gold, Jennifer.  That thing is absolutely magnificent.  I bet it'll take a month to wipe that silly grin off'n your face!  I wouldn't even want one just like it at my place..................'cause I might do somethin' stupid like put dings in it or something. :blink:

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Enjoy the new anvil Jennifer. Very NIce indeed. 

Chris, I know what you are saying. But hear is a thought, I have put every mark that my anvil has. May not be happy about it, but, It does tell the story of my journey in this craft.

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3 hours ago, Chris The Curious said:

Pure gold, Jennifer.  That thing is absolutely magnificent.  I bet it'll take a month to wipe that silly grin off'n your face!  I wouldn't even want one just like it at my place..................'cause I might do somethin' stupid like put dings in it or something. :blink:

More like a few years. 

Buying a new anvil is perfect for the dings and stuff.. Better to ding a brand new one than a vintage perfect one.  I have a thing for historically made items so usually wont even recycle good shape items.  Rusted out hoops or rods thats ok, but old axes and other finely made tools have a place to be admired vs used improperly. 

2 hours ago, Mr Moose said:

Enjoy the new anvil Jennifer. Very NIce indeed. 

Chris, I know what you are saying. But hear is a thought, I have put every mark that my anvil has. May not be happy about it, but, It does tell the story of my journey in this craft.

Thanks Mr Moose.  I will ply my skills to it for sure. 

With this said.. Please take what I now write not as a chastizing or critique and more for the newbie or other beginner that might stumble into this thread and read it. 

  Again, as a long time smith I have seen many damages done to anvils which for the most part need not happen. 

I am a fan of history. I look at all things forged before me in the old ways as historical artifacts, testaments to the smiths that did the work. Not as a special thing but as the guys showed up for work every day and just plied their trade.   anvil makers, ship wrights. so on, so on.  Just an average day on the job. Nothing special.. Now 100+ years later or even 50 years in certain cases.  Fisher. :)

With this said I have a hard time now as always with mashing away on an anvil with increasing damage on a historical piece of history in this way.  I have a 175HB anvil that in 30 years of using it I put in 2 smallish dents.  (really only noticeable to me) and in 6months of coming out of retirement, I put 6 small dents in it.  To me, this was/is unacceptable.   I went out and bought the Peddinghaus to beat up until my skills are good enough to use the Hay Budden again. :)

Everything I read growing up was about not hitting the anvil with the face of the hammer so strived to not do that. Accidents do happen but for the most part, going slower and being more careful gave me the largest payback with accurate and sure hammer blows and this helped me get better quicker vs haphazardly just mashing metal.. 

Now, I can swing an accurate hammer again I will pull that Hay Budden out again when the shop goes up and use it again.  I love forging on it better than the Peddinghaus. 

Please don't see this as a chastizing or critiquing. It's your anvil and you can do what you will with it but it's like a lot of things done by newer smiths and all of a sudden they understand what I have been talking about or mentioning all these times.  

2 hours ago, Chris The Curious said:

That's a  thought indeed.  However, to buy most any halfway decent anvil at the new price is completely out of my range.............unless some miracle happens to come my way. :lol:

Thomas's anvil acquisition technique. Chris when the anvil you are meant to have shows itself it will be yours.  

2 hours ago, CrazyGoatLady said:

Congratulations! You've been waiting and saving for a long time to get the refflinghaus haven't you? That's great. So happy for you

I have nearly 5 years in total. they don't import many of the 460 #58's.  I have sent the importer an email about every 6 months for about 4 years seriously. Last 6 months I contacted him every few months asking if he was going to get one in. I just got lucky I guess.  He contacted them and they only had one.  2 Days later the order shipped out taking the month + to get to him and then to me. 

47 minutes ago, 1forgeur said:

Not fair, 2 of them:( LOL

Only 1 Refflinghaus. :)  1 Peddinghaus.  And a whole bunch of others.  Keep in mind I am opening a blacksmithing school so will be needed as time goes on. 

FYI.  I am a big saver.  I spend money on great tools and that's about it.   I don't take vacations, I don't eat out and I don't buy coffee or anything out as a convenience.  I drive old cars and trucks. 

I'll bring water with me in the morning and if I don't have something I won't stop to get it. YUP, that hardcore of a saver.  I work way to hard for the pennies I make. 

I am always on the hunt for a deal. The Peddinghaus was 25% off when I bought it with free shipping. 

This Refflinghaus will be the last anvil that I buy personally for my own use.  It will be my main shop anvil. :)

Few more shots as I moved it into the trailer. 

the perspective is way off on the 3rd picture the Peddinghaus is only like 27" long and the Refflinghaus is 40.5" long. Funny how 2D photo's do that. 




The seller " Shady Grove Blacksmith" Sent this word document along and it's a pretty good read.  It shows wisdom and a great understanding of what is a good way to proceed if not understood. 



1. Ernst Refflinghaus anvils are shipped from Germany via ocean freight. To keep them
from rusting, the faces are coated with a red lacquer. Often this coating is removed here in the US, but
if your anvil does still have the coating; it comes off easily with a wire brush on an angle grinder. If
stubborn a little lacquer thinner might be necessary, but it takes off the paint on the sides also.
2. Many anvils including Refflinghaus Anvils ring like a bell until tightly fastened to a
stump or suitable base. The horns ring more than the center of the face. If the anvil is loud, ear
protection is highly recommended for all blacksmith activities. Many if not most middle age and older
blacksmiths have hearing problems which could have been avoided.

Your anvil should ring when not setting on anything flat such as when a piece of wood
under one end of the base. That ring indicates that the anvil is free from internal cracks and flaws. Ernst
Refflinghaus anvils have a very flat base. When the anvil is fastened down solidly to a flat surface, such
as when bolted to a thick iron plate (like on one of our stands) or something similar, the anvil does not
ring at all which enhances the forging experience.

3. The face of an anvil should generally not be hit directly with a hammer. This is
particularly important regarding anvil edges and the tips of horns. Try to keep hot iron between the
anvil and your hammer. This is the safest way to ensure no chipped edges or dents.

4. As errant hammer blows do happen, use hammers that are softer (less than RC50) than
your anvil face. Hammer and anvil softness/hardness can normally be judged by using a file. Soft hardy
hole tools also are recommended at least where they hit the anvil face.

5. If in a northern climate and when an anvil is cold, consider warming it up a little before
using. Steel gets brittle is approx.. 40 to 50 degrees below zero, Also keep in mind that the overall face
of the anvil should normally not be heated to over 250 degrees Fahrenheit as higher temperatures could
possibly draw the hardness from the face.

6. Do not subject the small ends and/or fine tips of horns to heavy hammer blows. These

areas of small mass can break, bend, or mushroom.

7. A general rule of thumb is not to use a hammer or sledge any heavier than 1/30 of the
weight of the anvil. Sometimes authors of blacksmithing information use 1:50 rather than 1:30. If the
1:30 rule is used a 165 lb. anvil could have a maximum hammer of 165/30 or 5 1/2 lb., and a 330 lb.
anvil could be used with a maximum hammer/sledge of 11 lb. Remember that heavy hammers/sledges
should preferably be used at the anvil’s “sweet spot” which is the center of the face over the main mass
of the anvil.

8. Round all the edges of the anvil – at least a little. This includes the hardy hole and if
possible, the pritchel holes although it is difficult to round the edge of the pritchel hole. Anvil edge
roundness is always a compromise. The sharper the edge, the more susceptible the edge is to chipping,
dinging, or cracking. The more rounded the edge the less it may chip, ding, or crack: but the less useful
it can be for some of the more delicate forging operations where a square corner would be preferred.

When rounding or softening the edge, keep in mind that square edges are at a premium. Generally, the
harder the anvil face and/or the heavier the anvil, the bigger should be the edge radius. That is assuming
that a heavier anvil will receive harder hammer blows with heavier hammers. A square edged block can
always be used in the hardy hole when a really sharp edge is needed.

Refflinghaus anvils edges come from the factory with a small chamfer at a 45 degree angle.
The chamfer usually varies a little, but is approx. 3/32 in wide. The anvil can be used as it comes from
the factory or can be rounded over. The edge can be rounded over by using a power buffer such as a
3M Scotch-Brite Surface Conditioning pad (hook & loop) on an angle grinder. Pads for a 7 inch grinder
last longer than those for 4 1/2 inch grinders. It is best to use a medium or fine grit flap disc sander first
to knock off the bottom and top corner of the chamfer, resulting in a 3 faceted chamfer. Then use the
Scotch-Brite pad to polish.

9. For some forging and bending operations a small round edge on the anvil (maybe 3"
long) is very useful and is found on most (but not all) older used anvils. Both sides of an anvil face can
have a small portion of the anvils edges rounded more than the rest of the edges. Over time most anvils
experience damaged edges. The reason for “small” is to preserve as much of the minimally
rounded/square edges as possible.

The heavier the anvil the more could be the radius for the 3" sections, but with a new anvil
start with the largest radius being no more than 1/8 inch (or smaller). That would be the roundness of a
¼” drill bit. The rounded edge can always be made bigger, if needed, but not smaller.

The typical older anvil face would have this larger radius rounding start at the round horn
and gradually decreasing by tapering the radius to a square edge at about 1/3 of the length of the anvil
face back from the round horn. That would leave about 2/3 of the anvil with the anvil’s minimally
rounded or sharper edges.

Today the trend with blacksmiths is to not taper this round edge the full 1/3 of the anvil
face like was typical in the past. The current reasoning, in part, is that bending on a taper is generally
not as good as when bending on an edge that does not taper. Therefore, an even 1/8” radius about 3 to 4
inches long seems to be the current preferred method. These rounding’s are typically next to the round
horn or side shelf.

10. For centuries, the accepted way to make hardy tools has been to forge the shank of the
hardy tool into the hardy hole of the anvil assuring a fairly good fit. This method has the potential for
drawing the hardness out of the steel around the hardy hole, and possibly causing cracks in the hard top
layer around the hole. Nevertheless this is still the accepted method. This is the method that I use. It
has not had a noticeable effect on the steel around the hardy hole, probably due to the mass of steel in
the anvil drawing the heat away from the hardy hole.

11. Most anvils rust (including Refflinghaus) when in contact with dampness, water, or in
a humid environment. Wax, Oil, WD40, or similar products help keep the surface smooth and rust free.
Objects left on an anvil face can result in condensation between the anvil and the object during periods
of high humidity and temperature changes. It is best not to store items on the anvil. Personally, I like
chain saw bar oil applied to the anvil face periodically.

Most blacksmiths prefer an anvil that has a patina on the face rather than a shiny face. It
holds the metal being forged better. Therefore, a very light rust is acceptable on the anvil face, although
the rust will go away if the anvil is used much.

12. Cast steel anvils can have a very few pin holes and other small surface blemishes.
These do not affect the usefulness or strength of the anvil. In Europe Refflinghaus anvil horns are not
polished as they are painted black which covers up any pin holes. They do sand and polish the round
horns for the USA trade, but sometimes do not or are not able to remove all the small imperfections.

ANVIL STANDS by Shady Grove Blacksmith Shop, L.L.C.
1. When bolting the anvil to the base, hold the angle brackets up a little in order to start the

bolt in the hole without stripping the threads.

2. As the stands are 3 legged so they stand solidly on an uneven floor. When fitted with
the anvil they are top heavy, and it is possible to push the stand and anvil over. Be cautious when

3. It is best if the anvil stand is bolted to the floor or pegged to the dirt, at least when the

anvil is used for striking.

4. The space between the anvil and the removable 1 1/2" bar plate (that fits in the little

hole) on the front of the stand is a great place to put hardy tools.

5. The tool holder (when provided) can be made narrower or wider by heating with a torch
and adjusting, but to keep the tool holder so it fits the holes in the base, adjust with the tool holder
mounted in the base.

6. The bending fork opening can be made narrower by covering the forks with removable,

fitted forgings of various thicknesses.

See www.blksmth.com for additional information on anvils.
Dick Nietfeld.
Shady Grove Blacksmith Shop L.L.C.
North American Ernst Refflinghaus Anvil Dealer


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Arkie, you bet.  I have to figure out how to mount it on the current stand for the short session it will be in the trailer.  :) 

It being 40.5 " long cuts into the room in the trailer but I wannnnnnnaaaaa use it so badly but the bolt pattern is off from the peddinghaus.  I might have to make an adapter plate. 

I have 4 more demos this season in the trailer so have a few weeks to get it up and running.  

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Glad you finally got it. I've read many posts where you say you've been trying to get one for about four years.

When it comes to saving moneyI'm with you there. I'm much more of an ant versus a grasshopper. I put a hundred dollar bill in an envelope every paycheck. I'll have enough to get another used car to replace the one that just recently died soon. If I want something I save for it versus using credit if at all possible.


Edited by pnut
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Das,  Hard earned for sure.  (another long term savings plan).

Will be really nice to forge on I imagine.  Today's plan is to get it mounted in the trailer. Gotta rethink the anvil mount as the bolt holes don't align with the wider base. 

Do I hog them out with a die grinder or install a plate..

More than likely will have to hog them out as adding a plate will increase the height of the anvil's face and it will already be 1.5" taller than the Peddinghaus thus changing not only the viewing height outside the trailer but will compromise how low I like my anvil to be at around 31" face height. 

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One would think with the size difference that this would be the case. The anvils are exactly the same width in the face so the bases are nearly the same with spacing on the backside. 

the front side or the side with the upsetting block on the other hand is a different story. the Peddinghaus is like 4 inches across an the Reflinghaus is 5+. 

when I designed the stand I like the anvls to have no extra stand sticking out around the anvil so there is not much room for the bolts and nuts.. really the nuts more so than the bolts. I will investigate further today as I have a welding job to do so will see what needs be done to get it mounted. I hate talking the Peddinghaus off the stand if I want to forge the bolts though. 

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Reminds me of a racehorse. I wish you all the happiness and contentment which comes with finally getting that special something you've been wanting for so long. 

I remember the stand you built. I'm not a structural engineer, but I have the feeling that widening the holes a bit will most likely not compromise the integrity of that thing. 

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I like the way the horn is on the same plain as the face, almost an extension of the face

I am curious in the construction differences between your cast Reff and your forged Pedd. please share your thoughts and some pictures of the bottom of the holes. Thanks :-)

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here comes a whole bunch of photo's.


Cast from a special supposedly proprietary steel. 

the horn being , on the same plain, offers several advantages the Northern German pattern does not and the largest one is indeed having it on the same plain as the face. this allows for the use of several different radii while forging on it as well as a flatter section in the middle for opening up circles. It is not round. Has some round sections though. 

The Refflinghaus has nicely finished holes, both the hardie and the pritchel holes are pretty smooth and uniform being cast on cores when the anvil was made. I don't see much variation top to bottom or taper.  All the tooling made for he 175 HB at 1" fit perfectly and are a tight fit. Not much slop. 

the holes also are not chamfered other than knocking off the edge finished off about a 45degrees 1/32 wide. 




the Peddinghaus is drop forged in 2 pieces and electric arc welded at the waist.  the pritchel and hardie are drilled and then the hardie hole is broached.  They also use a larger drill bit to chamfer the top of the hardie hole which for me is terrible. I like little if any chamfer of the hardie hole. 

The pritchel hole is drilled straight through and is straight top to bottom coming out the bottom cleanly.   The hardie hole though is not drilled all the way through nor is it broached all the way through for a finished hole at the bottom.   It looks like at the factory the drill was to short so they flipped the anvil over to try and drill it again from the other side so the holes are unfinished looking like they snapped the drill bit and called it quits. Firday at quitting time anvil..

Both anvils have the main body/face of the anvil proud of the rest of the top. Also a very slight crown to the center one side the other. (5" dimension). 


















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