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Reflinghaus #58 460lbs


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Jennifer,

Just curious here.  I believe you have adjustable jacks at the 4 corners of your trailer.  If the anvil stand rests on the ground why couldn't you adjust the height of the trailer with the jacks to end up with your preferred anvil height?   On second thought while I'm typing this I'm guessing with all that weight the wheels still need to take some of the weight to keep the whole thing from bowing in the middle.

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You can certainly change the anvil height via the Jack's and is what I do for fine tuning.

There are actually 2 problems with this and when i designed the trailer front viewing doors in particular were designed to have a particular height. (Bottom height or threshold for the viewing area).

 

If the trailer as a whole gets to high, so I can change (shorten) the floor to anvil height. It also changes the view outside height (whole trailer moves up) The wall moves that much higher up. 2 inches is a lot for kids.

2nd, the adjust time to level the trailer and get the correct anvil height.  I designed the stand originally to be a little taller incase I went somewhere that there was a pit or dip in the landscape. 

Since the trailer was built and nearly 40 demonstrations later I have never had the pit problem. 

I have had the anvil sit 2 inches taller though..

So since this is the case and I am modifying stands anyhow I figured why not kill 2 birds with 1 stone. 

Now instead of having to level the trailer based solely on anvil height, I will be able to park, drop the anvil and just kiss the ground with the Jack's. This will speed up the setup process. 

 

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6 hours ago, Buzzkill said:

On second thought while I'm typing this I'm guessing with all that weight the wheels still need to take some of the weight to keep the whole thing from bowing in the middle.

I double framed the trailer and engineered it so it won't sag or bow in the middle even with axles completely off the ground. 

the frame is solid enough that it does not budge anywhere.  I can lift the whole trailer off the ground with just the tongue and one rear jack. I usually walk around adjusting the jacks so they all have the same tension on the jack handle. 

I have a mandrel making video I finished but it's long as I upset 7/8" round into 1.250" sq then forged it back down into the mandrel. I think it's a good video but most would argue why do that amount of work..  My argument as always is" Because I can".  when in reality it was the stock on hand on hand and well, I can.  It shows the floor moving where the camera is mounted way up on the wall. 

I have since purchased some 1.250" sq which is the starting size tapered out and then made.  Of course, the whole thing is not using a swage block. and this video shows how to create the ridge in the middle without the use of a swage block or form. 

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I today cut a piece of between wood for the Refflinghaus stand and then proceeded to make the hold down bolts. 

I measured 5 times and while the length is supposed to be right they are to short as there is a funky jog on the upsetting block side (its all trial and error kind of thing)... I will have to cut them in half and make 2 new ends on longer shafts to make up the 1" needed to get them where they go. 

5/8" cross bars with 3/4" bolt sections. 

20190907_130224.jpg

20190907_185532.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

thanks. Of course after the fact I have all ready came up with a better way to do it.  LOL.    By putting a cross through the center of the stand i could have created the same movement of the trays but had the outside with less obstructions of the center. I like to store wire brushes in the center of the stand so they are handy. 

By moving the bottom inside pivots to the center it would open the area up and would have made fabrication and installation easier. 

Any how it's the learning curve. :)

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Jennifer, you’re fabrication skills are as amazing as your blacksmith skills. You never stop thinking outside of the box on how to improve problems you have just solved and always share them to help everyone else improve their skills and how their equipment is set up to improve efficiency. I’ve just started in blacksmithing, but have been involved in metal fabrication for almost 50 yrs, but I learn something new from all of your posts, and most of the other people that post here. I thank all of the great people on  IFI for taking time out of their lives to help and support everyone on this forum. 

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oooh, you are tricky.. :)    yes 4 more to make.. Will be fully adjustable height wise using blocks of wood or steel and still hold the anvil securely down to the stand. 

Still working on a quick release system that will offer the pressure I want for the hold downs but quick and easy.  

one screw mounted underneath perhaps with a hand wheel. 

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Les L.   Those are very kind words and thanks so much for sharing them.  Feedback to me is one of the most important aspects of any contribution.  I try my best to give honest information based on what I have learned.

 I'm thankful people can find the information useful and can help them along on their journey.  Even if it's contrary to what others are understanding. 

The resources here on IFI are pretty amazing.  It's the only blacksmithing centered forum I go to. 

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Jennifer, you are so creative! No store bought chineesium hold-down bolts for you. Your skills always amaze. I really like the swing out tool racks, too. When you start teaching in your new shop, your students will probably have no clue as to the skills of their teacher...wish I were closer to be able to experience that.

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  • 6 months later...

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