ThomasPowers Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Or make a tong and hammer rack from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew C Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I plan to replace it as soon as I get a better anvil and only use it for light duty work. I can't mount it as I need to keep it mobile for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Andrew, If you can’t mount it permanently maybe you could find a piece of plate and mount it to that to help keep it from spreading out like Jennifer suggested. You could drill and tap the holes and put the bolts in from the top so it will set flush. you could still have it mobile that way and maybe take some of the stress off. I think everyone here is just worried about the cast iron failing and dropping and anvil on your foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philb86 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 The leveling bolts are only to take a little wobble out due to my concrete floor when I move it to different positions. I have pieces of hdpe that slip on the end of those bolts to absorb any shock from the actual bolts contacting the floor. Same idea I have used on equipment I have installed in the field that has shock loading or high vibration. So far, only one out of those 4 bolts need to contact the floor to take the extremely small wobble it may have out. I will definately keep an eye out on them though to see if I get any issues with concrete spalling or chipping out due to the contact of the bolts with the concrete floor. I know all you guys have probably extensive experience in what works and doesnt. Thanks for the insight, it is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Less worried about them damaging the floor than about them being damaged over time by the hammering, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT Hammer Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 I've read this thread a couple times, and saved off images of the stands I liked. Thanks to all who posted their builds, I never could have made mine without ya. On 11/17/2019 at 5:52 PM, Old Crew said: After I got back from church I cut new legs at 15 degrees ... Any who 15 degrees is much better I think I read the 15 degree suggestion from someone else as well. I based my design around that angle, both the angle and splay of the back legs, as well as the front leg. I then did bed it with silicone, which definitely deadened the ring on my anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 That looks really nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 21 hours ago, Andrew C said: old wrought iron stand I'm with the others, when the picture is enlarged, the casting seams become quite obvious. Still a nice stand for low impact use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 Nice looking anvil and stand MT, only thing I could think off improving (and maybe I am wrong in seeing it on the picture) it looks like you only welded those hammer loops on the underside and a little bit on the side. Now I know how I place my hammer in my loops and it is not gentle. I worry that your welds will break off eventually just because of the leverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 Nice anvil stand MT. You sure picked what you liked from other's didn't you? Well done. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 Looks good MT I played with the angles of the legs for a bit before I found that 15 degrees worked well for my stand . If mine wasn't so stinking heavy I would have done wheels like you did, but I don't want anything popping out of where it shouldn't (Hernia) so no wheels on mine!! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanglediver Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 On 3/1/2021 at 12:39 AM, Waddy said: Tanglediver: That is a great looking solid stand. The plate you picked up looks nice and thick, how much did that cost you? Will you need to attach the stand to the floor or is it fine as is? I would like to make one like that but I need to be able to move it around when not in use. Thanks very much Waddy! The plate is 1" thick and 12" square in size and I paid $46.98 for it. I made the feet out of scrap bits that I had just enough of and drilled holes in them just in case it eventually needs to be anchored to the floor/ground. Like you, I need to be able to move this rig for use at my day job. This could be used in a mobile capacity because the bolts are easy to remove for separation. Today I welded the eyebolts shut so that they don't distort over time with use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Old Crew.. Ah, yup, hernia, broken back and 3" shorter, arms 4" longer.. You need a crane to move yours.. Tanglediver that looks great.. Very serviceable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BartW Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 foot done; and yes, I had to use the crane to get this done ... my back cannot handle an anvil this big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor S Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Any suggestions for an anvil stand? I ordered the Vevor 66lb cast steel anvil. I have seen some people using stumps, but I am having trouble finding the right size locally. I would get a welded stand but I don't have the tools for that and I don't know anyone here who does. I am looking for something easy to make and affordable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 4x4s stood on end will work. Drill some holes, grab some all thread, some washers and a few nuts and you have a stand. Or you can make some steel straps/bands and use some lag bolts to attach them together from the outside. Your overall setup will be pretty light so you might be chasing it around the shop a bit, but you can probably find some means of weighing the whole thing down. There are lots of ways to make a stand, but this is the easiest/cheapest way I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Well around end of the school year I'd wander the alleys around OSU and pick up nice chunks of dimensional lumber from waterbed frames. You can drill and bolt them together to make your own "stump". Out here I was given the rough sawn oak floor boards from a scrapped horse trailer and made several like that, only cruder for a western rustic look. One trick is to make the end pieces taller to help hold the anvil in place. Some folks also make glued up versions from 4"x4"'s. Stumps are usually easily sourced from tree service companies, give them a height and offer to pay a reasonable amount and many places will have one ready for you in a couple of days. My oddest one was when I lived South of Columbus and found an old chunk of RR bridge floating in the local creek during a flood: 3 large timbers bolted together; I still use it on it's side for the armouring anvils and tools. Getting the correct height is the most important part of sourcing a stump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 2 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: nice chunks of dimensional lumber from waterbed frames Do OSU students still favor waterbeds? I think you may be dating yourself here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 It was from the 90's and early 2000's; way past the craze in the 70's and 80's. Perhaps they were leftovers from board and concrete block bookcases? (A perennial college favorite!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Nice stand Bart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc has 40 pages and 4.1k posts of discussion on anvil stands. Did you find anything useful there? Choose the materials you have available in your area and build an anvil stand. Metal can be riveted or bolted together, wood bolted, screwed, and glued together, tree stumps available from tree services, etc. The height of the anvil stand should bring the anvil face up to the proper height for YOU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaegers Forge and Foundry Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 I recently made this anvil stand today I'm going to add a hammer rack and fill the legs with sand as well as supports on the legs The only issue is it's a bit to short So i figured I'm going to add wood boards to add height to it but I don't want to deaden the weight if I add boards under the anvil or under the stand its self with it deaden the hammer blows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 How much height are you thinking of adding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BartW Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Nice stand. What I would do with that stand is this : 1. fill the feet with stuff. I use Ash & mineral oil to prevent inside rusting. 2. reinforce the plate, it looks somewhat thin and bendy. Like weld plate or angle iron to in from below. 3. weld a T close to the ground to prevent the feet from splitting apart. You can also make a table from this to store stuff. 4. If it's too low; I'd add feet under the square tubing of sufficient height. I wouldn't use wooden board directly under the anvil; you want the anvil & foot to work together as one object, not as 2 seperate objects. For this reason you should also clamp the anvil down as strong as you can. but that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 How much do you need to raise it? Thick feet and a thicker plate on top could get you 1-2" easy. More than that and you may want to think about making one the correct height to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.