Old Crew

I am definitely going to replace the belt once I find a source. The belt I have has a few small cracks but only on one side of the belt. The construction of the belt is interesting it has 2 layers of leather 6" by about 4 foot long bonded together with some type of adhesive or plastic?. The plys each overlap the other by about 2 foot . Since it is made like that I don't think it would completely fail with out showing signs of failure. Right now I am getting close to getting it going and just want to use the belt I have for testing.

im not sure what what type of forge you have or want but --- how big can you build with 150 gallons? bigger than I can contemplate ever forging ! If shipping isn't stupid i might be interested in buying 1 pail from you (i have small forge plans)

Jlp I am fairly good at what i do and am able to adapt to changing conditions. The ability to do that is what allows me to make a living. You obviously have spent the time learning the trade and are well able to adjust to different equipment and a different shop and produce good products with less than ideal (or different than accustomed to equipment) Your ability to do that and your desire to train others is something that sets you apart. As a novice to blacksmithing I would love to spend some time soaking in the experience which you (and others) are willing to give to people that desire to learn more about your trade. Thanks for sharing

I have been working on a Bradley hammer i recently got. It was originally set up similarly to a line shaft but with its own motor and pulley system mounted in the roof structure above it. The motor drove a large pulley on the same shaft as a smaller pulley which drove the main crank shaft pulley. There was a canvas /rubber ? belt from the motor to the large pulley and a leather belt from the secondary pulley to the slack belt system to the machine . The leather belt on the slack belt clutch side is old and and dry but not completely ruined and I haven't gotten a new leather belt yet . What do I use to soften and treat the leather belt on a slack belt system ? It is a 2 ply 6 inch wide belt. Does any one out there have a running Bradley 200 compact hammer? If so I want to talk to you!!!!!!! Please David

The whole anvil mirror polished definitely polished nothing to chip off

I like the removable vise mount on your anvil stand you now have a 3rd hand when you need it With a very firm grip!!

Wife was snoring exceptionally loud early this morning. So I had to go to the shop real early to escape the noise First layer of KaoWool in Rigidizing it , you can see the blue coloring in the foreground Closed it off and let it heat for a while, it appears that the burner is working well, the K2800 brick on the floor was incandescent Unfortunately I got a little trigger happy with the spray bottle and used more than half of my colloidal silica on the first layer. Do you think it will matter if layer 2 only gets a light coat of ridgidizer since it will be covered with castable? Or will the Kaowool be to soft to easily work the castable?

Frosty In response to your question in Dan Rs thread about his 336 FARB No I haven't fired my burner in my forge yet! Sadly I am still building my forge. But I am close now unfortunately I am still Skeert of the castable I am an iron worker/welder I want the mud to be hard and flat when I get to the job Wet mud/concrete/castable YUCK

Doors closed with one of the removable burner plenums installed and the other side of the burner plenum Both burner boxes in and a picture of the divider. There with be a cap that seals the top of the divider when only one side of the forge is in use to keep the hot exhaust from coming up between the burners. If you want both sides remove the divider and replace the cap. there is a spacer of kiln shelf material that can elevate the divider 3/4 of an inch to provide an exhaust path if you are only using one side of the forge. I am a welder and working with steel is in my wheelhouse. I am now moving into uncharted waters with woking with the Kaowool and the castable refractory cement. I am not excited about this part of the build

The slot in the center is for a removable partition made from high alumina kiln shelf the floor is made from the same kiln shelf This is one of the doors insulating fire brick in a tray to side in front of the opening

As is the way life happens , what you want to do and what you can or are are able to accomplish are seldom the same. But you still have to keep trying to move forward when you can! I have finally been able to do some more work on building my forge. So I figured I would post some pictures for Recommendations , Criticism , Inspiration , Help because I'm a newbie or whatever! This is a picture of 1 of the burners. This version has 163 1/8 inch holes drilled into a 2800 degree light weight insulating fire brick.

Dan I have been watching your posts and appreciate how you approach building and testing your ribbon burners. Hopefully I can learn from your documented experimentation. I have been working on a drilled brick NARB. I was somewhat happy with version 1 and am still in the testing phase of version 2 but both have exhibited some of the harmonics you are experiencing . Version 1 would sing at different pitches until it got up to heat it had 136 1/8 inch holes and was very stable. Version 2 has 163 of the 1/8 holes and seems less stable so far. As of yet I don't have a completed forge to fully test my burners in , but I am getting closer to completing it. Please continue to let us newbies learn from your Tinkering! Thanks David

i agree

Ben Hover The round rods with the round head are HCA or Headed Concrete Anchors or are more commonly know by the brand name Nelson Studs. They are welded to a steel plate with the studs pointed down into wet concrete. When the concrete is cured the plate is attached to the concrete and you can weld a column or fence post to them. They are soft steel. David

Chris I am skeert of casting a burner so I have been playing with drilling one. 163 1/8 inch holes in a 2800 brick cut to 4-1/2 x 8 The burner is 1/2 larger than the brick I put the brick into the burner and packed kaowool around the edges to test. When I am done testing the brick will be locked in with castable. Some gas leaked past the kaowool and bang pushed the brick out of the base on one side. As for the Eyore reference I wasn't trying to be offensive so If that is how it came across sorry David PS thats is the burner running as low as the regulator goes 2 psi?