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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Frazer

  1. I have the same problem when reading off of screens. It's much easier reading off paper.. I think I might kill a few trees trying to print out all the content on IFI so I make do. What sort of things are you interested in casting? What got you interested? Out of curiosity, are there any casting classes in your area where you could learn the basics before diving in head first? Molten metal can be extremely dangerous. Much more dangerous than blacksmithing an many ways.. If you see safely warnings over in that section then try not to scan over them! By the way, unless there's a specific line you're responding to there is really no need to quote me if my comment is the one just before. It just clutters things up and makes people read the same thing twice (see the read this first link above). For a trimmed quote you can highlight the line you're looking to respond to and then click the little quote button appears. No hard feelings, it's just a best practices sort of thing.
  2. Have you checked out the Smelting, Melting, Foundry and Casting section? https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/91-smelting-melting-foundry-and-casting/ By the way, welcome aboard, glad to have you. If you haven't already I would recommend you READ THIS FIRST.
  3. Judehey, there is no need to post the same question twice, it just clutters things up unnecessarily... The gas forge experts will be along shortly to offer their opinions on what you should do (they have lives outside IFI too). I don't use a gas forge, but I would say rigidize, then KOL, then Plistix. The KOL provides a hard shell that protects the lining from flux, pokes and prods from pieces going in and out of the forge etc. so I wouldn't skip that step. While you're waiting for a more detailed response, read through the Forges 101 thread. The info you're looking for is in there. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53873-read-this-first/
  4. I have read that when welding a billet together it's better to just tack the pieces together lightly. The idea is to let the layers sort of slide across each other as you weld your way down the bar rather than popping apart because the ends have no where to go. I've gotten in the habit of just tacking one end together (usually the end with the handle and a couple more on the sides ~1/3 of the way up the bar) and leaving the rest free. Then again I use flux so its a little different. I'm not sure if that's what what happened to you, but it might be worth trying next time around.
  5. Jarntag, your proposed shop is about twice the size of mine (about the same width, but twice as deep). If you're trying to maintain the ability to park/work on a car in there that cuts your available space in half...ish. I don't have a power hammer or a lathe or a milling machine and I still find my space is limited. I would put one power hammer in. If you want to pour the base for a second one then do that, but until you find you actually need it it's just going to take up valuable space IMO. Let your skills come up, then match your tooling. Fine for the moment maybe, but when you are a proficient blacksmith and you are throwing scale and dust all over your other expensive equipment (both of those things will happen and probably sooner than you think!) is the plan to re-renovate your renovation to protect them? You really only have a couple of things that are really fixed in place: your power hammer and the chimney. Obviously these can be moved, but it's not like sliding around a table or an anvil or other furniture. You want your forge to be a step or two away from your anvil/post vise. If you want to make axes and plan to do any welded in bits, you can't bring your axe up to welding heat and then walk half way across the room and set your weld. It's little thing like that make the difference when designing a shop. I'm not a master smith here by any means. I'm just sharing my thoughts.
  6. To cut this short I think a few of you folks have fried one too many circuits. Not to be an operative in amplifying the issue, but we just had a electrical pun deviation a month or so ago (in this very thread IIRC). Time to pull the plug.
  7. In any case, the correction was imminent due to JHCC's eminent command of language. The hammer strikes again.
  8. I had my brother stop by with his fancy phone to take some snazzy pictures for you all. Samples were ground and hand sanded to 800 grit prior to a deep etch in ferric chloride. Here is the WI spike (a very nice specimen IMHO; reasonably coarse grain and a mushroom cloud shaped pattern in the cross section): While it isn't nearly as exciting to look at, here is the steel spike: One thing that was interesting about the steel spike is that there were what I am going to describe as "tubular inclusions/voids" running down the length of the spike. After sectioning and sanding you could see them as dark spots in the cross section (nearly impossible to see in the pictures after the etch). I ground down to some of the most superficial inclusions and after sanding and etching they appeared as the streaks you see in the side view. Those are actually inclusions and in some cases voids within the material. I am left with the conclusion that the steel spikes are indeed steel. However they are of poor quality relative to modern steel we are used to today. (Note: for their purpose at the time they were probably more than adequate).
  9. Frazer


    Most Machinery's Handbooks have a section on properties, treatment and testing of materials (this includes steel). I have the 30th edition which is relatively new. There might be a 31st edition now, but much of the information stays the same (including the older editions). Most notably, they removed the blacksmithing section that was found in earlier editions, but the trade off is more modern examples and applications. The nice thing is there is also a lot of additional info in there that is not specific to metallurgy. Some of the older versions can be found used much cheaper than new. It's commonly referred to as "The Bible of the Mechanical Industries". I will add that because it's not specifically a reference book for steels it is not as complete as the other sources already provided.
  10. Even if it's not it might be interesting for people who haven't seen the WI grain to observe it after an etch. I'll see about borrowing a decent camera.
  11. Hm.. That's a good idea. I'll cut and etch one of each and share what I find later this afternoon/evening.
  12. I don't know enough about burners to help you troubleshoot, but I can tell you that 1500F isn't hot enough...
  13. JLP, I got a whole tote of spikes ranging from small and relatively old to large and reasonably modern (MC, HC stamps etc.) from a rails to trails program by me. The small ones all look the same, but I've found roughly half of them are WI and the other half are a very low carbon steel. The latter group are (almost) equally fun to forge. Very soft under the hammer, but less of the "red short" that comes along with WI. These must have been taken from a line that was built with WI spikes, but over time they were replaced with steel ones of the same size.
  14. Quicker than when you first start? Yes. However, it's not nearly as fast and easy as nipping off the corner. IMHO the only reason to take the time to forge the corner back into the bar is with damascus where you're looking to let the pattern show that process.
  15. Ah, with mine the rubber stem that holds the speaker in place tore and the speaker fell out. I've always considered the weakest link to be buttons. Frosty, I don't believe these have active noise cancellation. They work just as well as the normal pluggers you'll find at the hardware store etc.. The only difference is these have speakers in them.
  16. They sent me a replacement set too. However, mine were still under warranty. What happened to your first pair?
  17. Agreed on the need for some additional info. Another option to avoid a fishmouth while forming the tip of your knife is to simply hot cut the corner off. This lets you form the tip of the knife faster and in fewer heats which results in a better knife overall.
  18. The smell is indeed uniquely unpleasant. The dust is also not good for your lungs so you should wear a respirator while you cut it. Question: Do you plan on leaving that gap between the ricasso and the antler?
  19. Precision indeed! I like it. I have a little (equally precise) jig that I use during my tempering cycles. It's good to keep a magnet handy and check that the whole blade (or at least the whole edge) is non-magnetic before quenching.
  20. Like this? I know the feet aren't what you're describing... However, I do think this will be an easier way to do it. If my doodle is incorrect please make your own or send pictures of the actual piece you're working on. It's very hard to offer advise when I can't picture exactly what you're trying to describe...
  21. The 19" handle finally came in for the 1lb 12oz axe head. It's a nice hatch-axe size. Large enough for 2 hands, but sufficiently light and wieldy to be used one handed.
  22. Very cool.. I hope you'll share your progress as you go (or at least the final product).
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