Frazer

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Everything posted by Frazer

  1. Billy, really like that handle. Quite a nice piece of wood. Finished the newest member of the tong family. From left to right is the order they were made. The new guy was made for 1/2" square stock.
  2. Turned out ok. The top ended up getting away from me a bit since I didn't focus on enough area during the welds up there. Ended up just making them thin. However, it certainly came out much better than my first one so I'm happy with the progress.
  3. Rojo, bottle opener is a piece of coil spring, most of the things I make I'll use that. With some exceptions. There is a car dealership near me that lets me go through their scrap bin and I've accumulated a lot of springs over time. Jasent, well thank you for sharing, and thank you jlp for making the video. It was very helpful.
  4. Jasent, thank you very much for sharing your video on how to properly make a basket twist. Got started trying it the right way today after work. Not only was the way I had initially done it totally wrong, but the way you demonstrated was much more efficient and made the forge welds way easier. So again, I really appreciate your help. Both ends are welded, but the top still needs some cleanup tomorrow, I ran out of time tonight. Ended up using 8 lengths of 3/16 round stock for the basket. I also made a bottle opener while waiting for things to cool. These were made yesterday, but a couple of keychains.
  5. JHCC, hahaha I expect that is the case for many. Turn 5 hours of work into 20 or so minutes? Pretty easy sell. I'm still in the process of building up my collection of tools. However, the welder beat out the grinder in the hierarchy of required shop tools during my last cost-benefit analysis. Also, officer in the army or Baroque harpsichordist. Talk about a fork in the road. Thomas, fair point,. but I'm sure even the most critical of historians will forgive your approach in this situation.
  6. Thomas, that is quite impressive, I'm sure it was more of a labor of love than an expectation of large profits on the other side (by all accounts much of the trade is that way to one extent or another). I would say bragging rights are well deserved for that particular case. I'm sure it is a reminder of the craftsmanship and ingenuity of the people of that time. And also of the reasons why people were always looking for ways to do things more efficiently. Not to sit here and glorify the "days of old" and such. If they had a grinder or a CNC or whatever in their shops I am sure many of them would have fired that bad boy up in a heartbeat. I on the other hand, sat at the counter for I don't even know how long (took me about 2 weeks of working on little bits at a time) making little piles of shavings, dust and spent sandpaper also to just make myself a simple little tool I'll get plenty of use out of. Not to be historically accurate (I was not by any stretch of the imagination), but just to make do with what I have available to me at this point. Besides what else do I have to do? Making things is fun, even when its tedious.
  7. Thanks! It seems we are in the same boat then haha. Well minus the knife maker part, but that's just a matter of preference. You are likely far more patient than me. Unfortunately, there is no medal for doing things by hand. Simply for the sake of efficiency I'll get a belt grinder at some point, it has just been a lower priority considering I don't really need it all too often. For the poker, I forge with coal so I just heated up one section (about the size you see in the twists) at a time and like you said, alternated the direction of the twist. When heating the next section I tried to have just a little bit of the end of the previous twist at a dull red, so it kind of smoothed that transition from one direction to the other. Then I straightened everything with my handy dandy wooden hammer (a hand sized piece of 4x4) to protect the look of the twists. Also just a recommendation, cut yourself a little extra material than you think you'll need (I used a coil spring because I have a near infinite supply), square everything up and start making the poke-y end first, working back from there. The first time I tried it, I misjudged how much material I'd need and ended up making it too flimsy in trying to get the length I was looking for. Better to have a little extra on the end and cut it off than have too little and get stuck. To add insult to injury, I broke the leaf on the end off while working on the middle because I did things out of order. I always learn some ways not to do something along the way. Just important as when it goes well haha as I'm sure you know.
  8. Finished this the other day. Every time I make a knife I am reminded of why I don't like making knives, so much file work and hand sanding (I don't have a grinder yet). I do however like to carry things that I make, so it's worth the time. Walnut handle, copper pins, started with an old Simonds square file I picked up from a tool thrift shop by me for $1. I love that place, very inexpensive second hand stuff. Full disclosure, I am not a bladesmith, but I do appreciate the handwork and time they put in to make nice blades like yours Michael. Heat treatment went well. It's about 6.25" overall length, pretty small to fit nicely in one of my leg pockets. I also finished this poker last week for my mom.
  9. Jasent, that looks really nice! I think starting out with a thin round stock (like you did) would save me a lot of time, considering I started with a railroad spike.. Inefficient? Yes. Still fun? absolutely. JHCC, I knew I was forgetting something! Now where did I leave that thing....
  10. Thanks all. JHCC I like the 6 strand idea. It would fill up some of the uneven spacing between each strand. I was worried about one of them breaking off so I quit tweaking them to be even while I was ahead. In drawing out the upper portion (twice) I lost a lot of the material on the end of one of the strands to scale. I initially planned for it to hold two candles, branching out at the top in either direction with pretty much the same holder style at either end. However, quite recklessly I'll admit, I forgot to meditate for several hours prior to making my forge welds at the strike of midnight, and I unfortunately I was facing south-southeast at the time. So I experienced some.. *ahem* delamination. The likes of which I was unable to get to weld back together. So I chopped off the top and made do with the material I had left.
  11. Finished a candle holder. First time attempting a basket twist so it could be a lot cleaner at the ends of the twist. I lost a more material to scale than I expected (note to self leave things a little thicker next time), but overall I'm still happy with how it turned out for my first go at something like this.
  12. I agree that silicone will help on both fronts, and that protecting the ears from unnecessary noise is very important. I'm actually quite surprised by how well the two magnets killed the ringing. I ended up locating the one under the heel all the way on the end, on the vertical face and now there is no prolonged ringing at all. It is not a dull thud sort of affair, but I think securely fastening the anvil and the base with a nail hooked nail or something like that will get it as close as possible. I'm not sure caulk can hold the two together securely very long as I'm working at the horn. It isn't really made to resist the moment that will be applied during normal use, unlike a steel fastener. However, for the purposes of noise reduction, and really generally speaking, it certainly can't hurt. Very interesting information, thanks for sharing.
  13. Yessir, been a fly on the wall for a while now. Then I made an account thinking I had a question, but I looked a little harder and found the answer. Funny how that happens. The screw looks pretty good, the screwbox however has likely seen better days. It looks like someone may have done a repair a while back, perhaps brazing, looks like brass on that seam under a nice layer of rust, but it could just be the light. However, it is mostly intact, the threads look to be in very good shape and it works, which is a good start. Might just need a bit of a clean up and not to be torqued down as hard as possible when it comes out of retirement. Also, I ended up going with this one over a 100lb mousehole that was in much better condition because I liked the size. I've only been taking classes and working from home for about 10 months so for me and for what I'm capable of doing with my current setup and level of experience, either certainly would have been fine. This one just seemed like the right choice. According to Sea Farmers post found here https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/i-bought-anvil-today-what-do-i-have-photos-154946/ [third to last comment on page 1], "Finally, got around to looking in my book, Anvils in America by Richard Postman. Richard devotes almost three pages to the Paragon anvil, which was made by a Swedish company names Soderfors. The advertisements claim that they are solid forged steel, but Postman feels they are cast steel. He says that it really doesn’t make any difference, because they are excellent anvils. Soderfors has supposedly been making anvils since about 1200 AD; however, he could only find records of the Paragon anvil dating from around 1902 as the oldest and about 1934 as the newest." I don't have the book myself yet and this only says the most recent records, nothing definitive, so I'd defer to someone else's response if they can provide something more concrete. Yes that will likely help, before any of that I will probably be forging out a few J shaped hooks I can drive down into the wooden stand to fix it in place. As it sits now I can actually move the anvil around a bit within those straps, so they aren't applying much, if any downward force and therefore are doing little to dampen the vibrations. It's also not particularly helpful when working on the horn to have the anvil shifting on its stand. It's not moving a lot, just slightly, but that's enough to justify a quick fix.
  14. First post here, though this was note worthy, I drove 10 hours round trip over to PA last weekend for my first anvil. A 150lb, 1920 Soderfors made in Stockholm, Sweden. I had been working off my improvised anvil for a little under a year. It was a ~3" round of hardened steel maybe 10-12" long that I freed from some larger assembly I found in a local scrapyard. It worked well enough to make small things and to learn hammer control with while I saved up some funds. Since this is my first anvil, in terms of a review I can't really offer any insight as to how it compares to anvils from other makers, what I can say is that I love working on this gal. She's very lively. I haven't done a formal rebound test or anything, just light bouncing of a hammer on the face, but it is certainly better than what I was working on before, and she moves steel much more efficiently. She is also LOUD, rang like a bell with every hammer strike until I stuck 2 very strong magnets I had laying around from building a dc motor which has helped a lot. I'm also going to modify the stand, which came as you see in the picture, to hold her down a little tighter. Which I think should kill the rest. Or at least most of it. Her previous owner definitely put her to work so she has some character, which I don't mind at all. Definite sway in the face on the sweet spot, the edges have a little chipping, but there is still a ton of area to work on and there is also a cut in the face over by the pritchel hole. Possibly from a torch? I have no idea, maybe one of you guys can correct me if I'm wrong. When I first got her she had a thick coat of brown paint, which I was able to remove for the most part with several hours of scrubbing and wire wheeling. I didn't want to make the surface shiny and clean just so I could beat on it with a hammer, but I didn't like the brown. During cleanup I found some other stamps and I am curious if anyone might be able to provide some information on. Under the heel on the foot there is the date, 1920, and under that there is a number 6. Not sure why it's there or what it means. Also to the left of that, there is another stamp which is upside down, but is an F inside a C. Looks like maybe a touch mark from a previous owner, or a stamp from when it was imported, or maybe that's just how it left the factory. Hard for me to say. Those are the only stamps I've seen so far. I ended up paying 700 bucks for the anvil with a hardy, a post vise (no markings that I saw on it on it), a Reed Mfg bench vise, (pictures here if you care to see and some other smaller tools, which seems fair to me. Even if you think I took a bath at that price I am very happy with my purchase and that I took the long drive out there. The guy I bought her from is a retired farrier who was selling off some of the stuff in his shop, which was full of different anvils (probably 15-20 or so, I wasn't really counting) ranging from 10-500 lbs, and tons (perhaps literally) of vises he'd acquired from 30 years of collecting. Real nice guy. I've seen pictures the of the anvil pyramids here, but to see stacks of Colombian and Fisher anvils as well as the various other ones he had tucked away around his shop was really cool to see in person. I'll admit I may have drooled a bit as he showed me around. So overall, in my humble estimation, Soderfors makes a quality anvil and I look forward to using it for a long time to come. PS sorry if the pictures look bad on your end. I have a flip phone that was not made to take nice pictures, did my best with the lighting.