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I Forge Iron

Frazer

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About Frazer

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
     Rochester, NY
  • Interests
    Optics, matlab, target shooting (bow, trap & rifle), Dostoevsky, Tolstoy, hammering hot steel.

    "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is."

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  1. If you prefer to go the bought new route. I got a Fiskars 3 pound (11" handle) hammer a while ago that I liked while I was using it. I prefer wood over fiberglass/composite handles, but I didn't mind this one. 3 pounds is a little heavy starting out, but you could go at it with an angle grinder and shave off a pound or so turning it into a square face with nice rounded edges (I like the square face so you can use the edges like a cross peen) . Regardless, an anvil is a chunk of steel that preferably stays put and doesn't deform while you're beating on it. A hammer is just a smaller
  2. I would take the Soderfors any day of the week. Even if it were the more expensive of the 2. She's a beauty. The PW is probably usable, but the edge damage and pitting from the rust is pretty severe. I would say overall the condition of the PW would be poor.. at best. The Soderfors is in excellent shape. If you're within driving distance, you should go check it out in person and do a rebound test to make sure she's still as hard as she should be. Even if you're a little outside of driving distance it's worth the trip. I drove 10 hours to pick up my Soderfors. Well worth the drive since I
  3. I still have a dumb phone and text Abc. I call it The Brick because it's a bar style phone that's about 3/4" thick. It's built for construction workers so it's very rugged. It fell out of my breast pocket into my quench oil once so I fished it out and cleaned it off with soap and water. I also dropped a hot coal next to it once and the corner caught on fire. Still works fine. That's what I like about the dumb phones, they just work. Fewer software "upgrades", no distracting apps, removable battery, inexpensive, makes calls, sends texts and even has a hammer emoji. The last point I was surprise
  4. Hi Chellie, some fine lookin' animals you have there! Frosty.. I scrolled up two posts to try to decipher what you were talking about.. thanks for that. I was going to make a joke about getting a serious bleating.
  5. While I agree with John that this isn't the use case for ceramic blanket that poses the most risk, it's kind of a moot point given the numerous other (much safer) options that are available for annealing that have already been given above. Like many risks, it's a roll of the dice whether or not one has adverse reactions to some degree or another. And the probability goes up with the amount of exposure you get. I guess the question is why roll those particular dice at all if you don't have to. Even if the odds everything will be fine are arguably in your favor. Using ceramic blanket would
  6. My first anvil was a cylinder of hardened steel I freed from some large piece of equipment I found at the scrapyard. It was 2.5 maybe 3" in diameter and made a great post anvil for the first 8 or so months I was forging. I beat that thing up quite a bit, chipping off a lot of the edge with missed strikes while I was learning some semblance of hammer control. Fortunately, it cost me $14 so beating it up a little bit didn't bother me much. There's nothing wrong with finding a London pattern anvil when you're starting out. But while you're learning, having a piece of steel to beat on has mor
  7. I own a Soderfors and I will say they are wonderful anvils. As far as the weight goes, that depends on the sort of things you plan to make. 88#s is a little light for heavy work. However, if you make a nice heavy, rigid stand for it I'm sure that will work well for you for a long time before you really "need" to size up. While ~$5.70/lb isn't unheard of, if you can talk him down to closer to $4/lb I'd say you got a good, perhaps even a great deal. Of course that is assuming the anvil is in good condition and passes the ring and rebound test.
  8. Das, last time I was driving through PA, I found the roads were actually about 10% potholes. Made for interesting driving. I also found that the number of disabled vehicles on the side of the highways was much higher than I'm accustomed to seeing.
  9. I don't know what it was used for in its previous life, but it looks like a great bottom swage to me. A large radius you may not need often, but is very handy when you do. I would pick it up for my shop! For the right price of course.
  10. It's been a little while, projects move a lot slower when you only get to sneak into the shop one or two days a week. Still, I have finished a bunch of projects, most of which not worth sharing or no longer in my possession. Now that the house is getting close to being done, I have started making the finishing touches for the rooms. First, a coat hanger for the foyer. Turned out okay. Could have been better. And a ring for hand towels in the bathroom. I really like this for the space. I'll make a matching one for full size towels soon. That'll be a bar instead of a ring
  11. TP, I'm going to quote you here, "*Minions* Steve, *minions*!"
  12. Plus there is no point (ha) sharpening before heat treating, that thin edge is going to heat up faster leaving it more prone to decarb/burning up/overheating. General best practice is to break sharp edges before hardening, not create them! Not the end of the world though it'll turn out fine. Looking forward to seeing it done!
  13. The curie point (transition to non-magnetic) is in the red temperature range, well below what I would consider forging temperature. The latter would be in the orange to yellow temperature range. Once the steel gets down to a red/black heat its generally time to go back into the fire. The curie temp is an indicator of when its time to quench steel for hardening, not when it's ready for forging. Get that steel hot, especially tougher alloys like spring steel, and stop once it gets cold. Your shoulder will thank you!
  14. If one found some 1018 (my steel supply carries it, but it's [slightly] more expensive than A36) then you could theoretically still come in comfortably under 0.4% carbon. The problem is whether or not other impurities will impact whatever he needs 99.6% pure iron for and the question is if the carbon content + any impurites < 0.4%. They could test that with the proper instrumentation, which if they have these sorts of specs on their materials, they may have in their lab... or garage... or whatever. Not criticizing, I just don't know what his setup looks like. I imagine forge capab
  15. Mr SLAG, I had to look that up... That's an interesting curve and one I have found myself on quite a few times. Glad it has a name. My thanks, Frazer
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