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I Forge Iron


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About Frazer

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     Rochester, NY
  • Interests
    Optics, matlab, target shooting (bow, trap & rifle), Dostoevsky, Tolstoy, hammering hot steel.
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    "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is."

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  1. When tempering the few hammers I have made, I: Clean up the faces of the hammer Heat up a piece of scrap steel that is roughly the same size as the hammer eye. Place the hammer on the hot steel and let the heat soak through the hammer from the eye out to the faces. This usually takes several heats of the scrap steel to bring the faces to a purple (~280C) This technique is called differential tempering and will keep you from getting in trouble with your wife for using the oven . If knowing the hardness is critical for you, are you able to purchase a set of hardness testing files? They usually come in a range from 40-65 HRC depending on the set.
  2. I think you might be better suited playing with your hood design before replace the whole stack. You may end up putting a larger pipe in there and not seeing much of an improvement. I don't know why Trenton Tye's version works well while yours is having issues, but I have no idea what the rest of his stack looks like. There could be many reasons. You can try bringing the hood down a little lower, a side draft, etc. I do think you would benefit from a larger diameter pipe. With the right hood I don't see why you would need anything larger than 300mm (~12"). If it's easier for you, you don't have to have a single stack. You could run a second 200mm pipe alongside the existing one for the equivalent of a single ~280mm (~11") stack..
  3. H13/S7 are overkill for something like a guillotine die. Especially a fuller. The high tempering range make those tool steels great for items that need to be sunk into into hot steel and maintain their shape... hammer eye punches and slitters come to mind, but you really don't need it for either of those tools either. I use 4140 for my dies, but one could use mild too. If the struck end starts to deform, heat it up and straighten it out again. Another, IMO, easier option would be a spring fuller. At the end of the day, either one would work fine.
  4. It reminds me of one of the grilles seen in "Decorative Ironwork: Some Aspects of Design and Technique" I would share pictures from the book, but I don't have it with me...
  5. Do you have any pictures? I'm assuming your forge setup has stayed the same and the only thing that has changed is the move to a new workshop. If you are only having draft issues since you moved my mind immediately goes to 3 possible causes: The stack is too short for the new building (it should extend roughly 4' (1.25m) -- or more -- above the peak/highest part of the roof) It is otherwise obstructed by it's surroundings (i.e. trees) The new building isn't allowing enough air to reenter the building to replace what is going up and out the flue. Does the draft improve at all if you open up a door? Granted you have probably already tried that since the shop is full of smoke... 7" is a little small. 10-12" (250-300mm) is recommended. Bigger is generally better, but in my opinion 24" seems like it's a bit much.. It would take a long time to get the draft going through a pipe of that size. The heat of the flue gasses going up the stack is what causes it to rise, a pipe that large would draw in a lot of ambient air and the flue gasses could be cooled substantially as a result. You might end up with a weak draft until that thing gets rolling. I guess it depends on how you arrange your hood. I'm no expert on chimney's here. I'm just thinking out loud.
  6. Ha. That's a good one. He's honestly a nice guy he often comes over to just talk for an hour or so, but he really doesn't like the fact that I burn coal. He likes the backsmithing aspect and says he doesn't hear any noise, but he doesn't like that he can apparently smell smoke... Even though his house is to the west of me and there is no visible smoke coming out of the stack (unless it's just getting lit or is dying out for the day). I'm not saying he can't smell it, but he must be extremely sensitive. No one else can smell anything while it's running. He's 85, walks with a walker and just doesn't like the change. I totally get it and I think we have a good neighborly relationship where he knows he can come talk to me if he needs to. He has threatened to go to the town, and get a lawyer... but that was only once when he was really mad. He calmed down pretty quick after we talked for a little bit. I get it. I don't want the confrontation an try to work with him where I can. If it takes an extra ~$500 piece of pipe to make him happy then so be it. He really doesn't have much of a case since the town is already aware and there are no laws restricting me from doing what I'm doing. I just don't want to be a bad neighbor.
  7. I would recommend editing your post before the mods get to it.. IFI is intended to be friendly to all ages. My general rule is if I wouldn't say it in front of my 6 year old nice, I shouldn't post it here. Anyway, welcome aboard! Glad to have you.
  8. Refractory cement isn't intended to be used as a flame face. You're looking for castable refractory (i.e. Kastolite 30). I don't have a gas forge, but this is something that has been discussed many times here. It's a common mistake, no worries. I would just hold off until you have the right stuff. I'm not saying you're not concerned about safety, I just wouldn't want some other person who is less aware about the dangers zinc seeing that and wondering why he gets a splitting headache every time he runs it... Also, yes, chromium fumes (hexavalent chromium) are very dangerous and if you were welding your SS or chromed bucket it might have been mentioned. However, in the temperature range the shell of an insulated foundry such as yours would be expected to reach, SS is very stable and will not release any fumes. That isn't necessarily the case for galvy. Anyway, I don't mean to be a bore, there are others who have more experience with these sorts of setups that can offer more input than I can. Welcome aboard and good luck!
  9. It's the mostly part part that concerns me.. Could you at least paint it with some 500F engine enamel spray paint? I believe zinc stats to release oxides around the 700F mark, so you would at least have some warning that your can is getting excessively hot... Or better yet just ditch the galvy can and replace it with something else.. I like the second idea better. Did you rigidize that ceramic blanket? https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/53239-ceramic-wool-insulation-safety-alert/
  10. I got another 3' section of pipe in. The top of the cap is now 7' above the peak of the roof and is almost as tall as my house I wasn't having any performance issues, but my 85 year old neighbor had called me complaining of a smell, so I said I would extend the stack up a little higher. Hopefully, this resolves the issue.
  11. Hm, it really does look forged... If you're looking for a somewhat definitive answer as to what the body of the anvil is made out of try tapping one of the feet (or the underside) with a grinding wheel and see what sort of sparks come off. Wrought iron will put out dull red sparks with relatively short trails and essentially no forking. If you don't want to do that, then it can remain a mystery. At the end of the day if the face is hardened it will be a nice shop anvil regardless of what it's made of.
  12. They're clear so I wouldn't weld with them either! Even they block 100% of UV there is IR radiation coming off the arc, not to mention the intense visible light that would be enough to blind you temporarily on it's own. In the same breath, I don't consider safety glasses to be a waste of money. You can never have too many pairs laying around.
  13. JHCC, that's what I was talking about, but I probably should have specified cast steel. You would have one heck of a time trying to harden the whole body of a Fisher. *grin*
  14. Many polycarbonate safety glasses will block UV rays. When I was working outdoors I would get rather comical tan lines from them. They do not, however, block IR. The heat from a forge does not put out any UV light as far as I'm aware.. You'll need tinted lenses (they come in various shades) to block IR.
  15. Right, and even then, the stress riser would only maybe be a concern if the whole body of the anvil was hardened. However, since it's only the face, I think the likelihood of a stamp that's 1-2 mm deep in the waist of an anvil causing issues is negligible. Especially when compared to something like the step.
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