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About Frazer

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Rochester, NY
  • Interests
    Optics, coding, target shooting (bow & rifle), general tinkering, "if it ain't broke, fix it until it is", and making things (obviously)

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  1. JLP, looks pretty darn good to me. I wish I could do so well. Perhaps someday. I think we are all the greatest critics of our own work since we are the most familiar with all the little mistakes/imperfections made along the way. But of course you already know that I'm sure haha. I finally finished my scissors. Sorry for the potato-vision. I have also made steady progress on the knife for my brother.
  2. After quite a lot of tweaking I finally got the scissors to where they cut paper/cardboard very nicely. They are still just bolted together, last thing to do is hit the parts with a wire wheel to brighten them up a little and rivet them together. I will say scissors are a pain in the butt to get flat then curved in the way I wanted. I also made a larger and less curved shovel for my Ma. This one is better for scooping.
  3. I actually just watched your second basket twist video where you add the plate in the middle of the twist, that was very cool! I think ill need a little more practice before trying that extra complication, but it did give me some things to think about. I was following the method in your video entitled ""How To" Forge a Blacksmith Twist Handle (Basket) for those Who have not Mastered forge welding." I wont embed the video itself, since it is long and I'm not sure how that would affect the loading speed of the page for other users. Only was scarfing and welding in both sides instead of just one (with very limited success). I do like the lap weld method for adding additional length at the other end of the twist. Its like welding on the reins for tongs, but I didn't think to do that here.. I'm going to try some of the things you have suggested and see how it goes, and if things still don't improve I'll draw up some things and share them with you outside of this thread. Thank you very much for your help and for sharing some of your knowledge with people like myself. Sorry everyone for getting a little off topic here.
  4. I am using the method showed in one of your videos where you had used a mandrel, but instead of a filler piece, I am doing a scarfed piece at both ends. I need the extra length at both ends since it's not being used as a handle. I do have some trouble keeping an eye on the end of the scarf for the the second weld sometimes, so I think I am missing the spot I should be hitting and just squishing the rods, then they end up burning away while I am trying to fix the bad weld. At a certain point, once it gets all covered with ash, they just wont stick. My forge isn't very big or deep so it doesn't keep a clean fire for welding for long.
  5. Yea, I'm probably using the wrong term there, but I'm talking about that piece of round stock that you wrap the bundle around to make the first weld, then remove for the second. You'e probably right, I'll try using my little 1lb-er on the next one. As for the heat, Maybe I'm fooling myself into thinking that I'm at a welding temp when really its only the strands, and not quite all the way through. Ill give it a shot, thank you.
  6. Should have refreshed the page. Chris, nice rack! I'm quite jealous! All my hammers and tongs go in a 5 gal bucket, which is filling up too fast.... as I imagine your 3 rows will as well. Virusds, that's a cool design, very unique. How did you do the castle-like pattern on the pommel? And do you mean to file the blade fit up to the guard? Or the pommel to fit up with the handle? Also 425F is a lot higher than I tend to temper my coil springs for a knife (300-400F depending on what the edge will be doing [even higher for top tools]) . Have you done any edge retention/toughness testing at lower temperatures? I've never made a knife like that so maybe having a less brittle edge will be helpful for a harder use knife like that. I'm not saying that my way is right, I'm just curious. Also, for your serrations, those are usually done like a chisel grind, only sharpened one side. A chainsaw file can be used on hardened & tempered spring steel (usually). Even if the file teeth don't survive as long, chainsaw files are usually harder than others. This is the only dagger I've ever made, back in September for my dad's birthday. It took a month and a half to finish with what I had at the time (both in tools and experience haha). Tempered for an hour two times, first at 350 then 325.
  7. Alexandr, I couldn't even imagine having so much work laying around the shop as you so often do. Incredible as always sir. I tried my first pineapple twist for a little shovel my Ma wanted for planting seeds in the garden, when the time comes. Ill probably end up making several of varying sizes and widths. I also made my first split cross for my great grandma, shes 93. (for those concerned, it will be sent in the mail..) I also repaired one (and destroyed one) basket twist. The one I fixed had thicker round stock and i broke out the welder to reattach a couple strands. I have been having a lot of trouble with the second weld when the mandrel isn't keeping everything in place... Any suggestions? It seems they just don't wan't to stick like the first bundle which always seems to go well.
  8. Mark, I went through her channel and here is a list of everything I recognized, although i don't think any of the listed items are what you're looking for specifically.. still, in case it is of use to you, or to anyone else, ill post it. (Also thank you Jennifer for sharing some of your work, it is really quite impressive. Across the board.) boot dagger (second from bottom [excluding axe]) Carving chisel (third from bottom [excluding axe]) Colonial Style knife (bottom) Colonial Style Wrapped Eye Tomahawk - looks like there has been a handle improvement, or its not the same axe. Not sure. (far left) Knife hiding directly below the... Katana? Knife with hooked tang, center of pile on the bottom (i think)
  9. Ramsberg it seems no one here is denying the validity of the concerns you have regarding the virus. However, for most people visiting the site, in search of "how to do such and such thing", the expectation of having admins add CDC info (which is changing as new information comes out) to every section of the forum where their search may lead, is a great deal of work. Especially on top of all that they are already doing to keep things running smoothly. It is is quite a lot to ask. Remember they are people like you and me and are also pressed with their own concerns for the same, or similar things as you. Follow the guidelines provided by the CDC and stated above and remember that, in many cases, shop time counts as social distancing. If you're worried of the things you're making harming someone, follow the necessary cleaning procedures and your customers/family will have nothing to worry about when it arrives.
  10. If one has such a contact, that may be slightly more efficient than the swing and pray method I have described
  11. Well in that case, *disclaimer: for entertainment purposes only* And in the beginning there was steel. Formed by quite industrious fellows under the oversight of... *insert expansive and eloquent dissertation pertaining to the character of the societies/organizations/institutions responsible for defining the metallurgical standards by which various material properties are achieved* Then came the shadow, cast upon the fruits of these men (and women's) labor by an enclosure which had been formed from the carcasses of pulverized trees. For 3 days the darkness remained, while the contents lay nestled in a bed of compressible materials, safe from potential harm during the treacherous journey. Finally, upon reaching it's destination, there was light, and these fruits were removed from their safe resting place and placed firmly in the rigid jaws of a vise. Promptly, and with all of the precision that can be achieved with a hacksaw, the materials were dismembered and stacked, separated from its former self by the thickness of its neighbor, where they were together electrocuted quite intensely. By now the base brute, who was now their keeper, was wielding a blunt instrument. He cast the conjoined materials into the fire from which they were formed. And here they lay. When it seemed the heat was almost unbearable, they were removed from the fire. As the brute faced due north, and while muttering an incantation of sorts under his breath, they were struck. Pressing their faces together with such force that they had no choice but to join together to resist his blows. The beatings persisted, and only ceased when the heating resumed, or to be once again dismembered and rejoined with it's former self. And in the end, abrasives. Such a collection of abrasives that it would be impossible to recollect them all. All the while the brute continued to mutter his incantations. Although they were quieter now, and they were directed at the material itself. The same material which he had abused so mercilessly before. If you follow the steps performed by our anti-hero, and perhaps add a few of your own, you may indeed create a similar pattern.
  12. Thanks, I admit it was by chance, and not what I was going for initially. I had filed down through the layers with a round file and flattened out the tiny billet (like a ladder pattern). However, I have at this point sanded through all that and this is what was left.
  13. Finally began the somewhat daunting task, in my opinion, of making a hot cut hardie for my anvil. Certainly the biggest piece of material I have worked on (my anvil has a 1" hardie hole) and my little forge was actually was able to keep up, which I am happy about. Started with a 3/4" sq drop 5 maybe 6 inches long I had picked up at the steel supplier (they have a huge collection of miscellaneous drops they sell by weight). I upset it to 1", plus a bit, square then formed the shank and flattened out the rest to make the what will be blade. Then cut a slot down the middle, made a wedge with some 1/8" 1095 and forge welded that in for what will be the edge. I don't think this is necessary, and I'll have to temper it back significantly to avoid potential shrapnel, but it was fun. I've never tried that before. It's not very pretty, but it was quite a lot of heavy hammering, and overall I'm happy with the result. Tomorrow I'll put an edge on it, heat treat, and it will be put to good use. My angle grinder has been doing all my cutting up to this point, but it's loud and my neighbors already put up with plenty of noise. My brothers knife is coming along nicely, still hand sanding, but I couldn't help taking a peak at the pattern now that I'm getting close to final thickness.
  14. Starting stock really depends on the tongs you're making and how beefy they'll need to be, but I usually start with 5/8" round, sometimes 1/2" square, mostly because I have a lot of it. You could probably get away with smaller, certainly can get away with bigger, it just means you'll have some extra hammering to do. There isn't really a set rule as to what to use. Square or round or bar, doesn't really matter to me, as long as there is enough material. As a general rule I don't like to forge anything using rebar, as it is a very heterogeneous material. I've used scrap pieces and had something unexpectedly harden when quenched in water, then break on me, while the next section not 6" away wouldn't harden. It also seems to tear itself apart if overworked. It's hard to work with a material when you don't know how that particular piece is going to respond. Not to say everything made with rebar is junk, far from it, I have just found it a lot easier to work with a piece of steel straight from the supplier, especially after finding it to be so inexpensive. I think a 20' length of 1/2" sq was something like $18-$19 from the supplier that was about 30 miles from my house. Of course your mileage on my comment may vary. Oh, and if you don't have much luck at the scrapyard looking for something that may be 1045, A railroad spike should serve your drifting needs. I use them all the time. Spikes with an H stamped on the head should be around 0.3% carbon and will harden slightly when quenched in water if you like. But in all honesty none of my drifts are heat treated at all, they would all loose their hardness by the time they got half way through anyway. *Edit I didn't see you're in Sweden, so railroad spikes probably aren't the same there as in the US, or they aren't quite so easily found. Anyway, got to shaping out a little knife for my brother using the little piece of damascus I made. I certainly won't be getting into a habit of making damascus, it takes a LONG time with my current setup and I'm more than happy with my good old mild steel. I probably have at least a week and a half in this already (it wasn't the only thing I was working on). Still, welds are seamless and after a test etch I'm really happy with the pattern for my first go at it.
  15. Bluerooster, I agree, I pretty much always end up giving away the things I make. Usually to family, friends, coworkers, and the like. I look at it as good practice and as I improve my work by making things I would have been making anyway then giving them away, I'm getting things out there so when I do feel confident enough in what I'm making (and can do things more efficiently) there are already people who have seen some of my work. Efficiency is definitely the main problem, some of the things I make, I may have tens of hours in hand sanding and file work in simply because I haven't bought a grinder yet. So putting a price on something like that is hard. To me, at least at this point in time, it's just about the experience and having some fun making things while my day job pays for the fuel, and materials and such. Anyway, speaking of spending a long time hand sanding, I've been practicing my forge welds and making a little damascus. I have another piece that's bigger (and by that I don't mean big! Wow Blacksmith-450 now that's some serious forge welding!) and where the welds went much better, this one had a little delamination up by where I punched the hole, so I called it quits on this piece and It'll just be a keychain of sorts. I like looking at it as it took me a long time to do. My brother is fascinated with damascus so I started this project with him in mind. I have also continued on my scissor project. most of the forging is done, but the handles are still a little uneven and there is still quite a lot left to do.