philb86

Noted, no AT signs. I have heard of cases like that, never experienced it though myself. I dont disagree with it being good insurance, as I said almost always I temper after reaching ambient after being quenched, just my routine. Was your students blade forged, or stock removal?

Thanks all! I really have to turn my notifications on so I know when there is a reply. I will start by answering ThomasPowers. You are correct, I forged the billet and then profiled the billet that I had made. The make up is 1095 sandwiched between two pieces of 410SS. I am planning on forging the bevels in once I get myself a little more consistent on making the billets as my second attempt tonight to make another billet of the same make up above, I found a spot where one side of the stainless did not weld to the high carbon. I started to grind it out and it got to the point that I needed to come in for the evening, a little disappointed. It is a fully hardened blade, however I did an edge quench, to ensure that I did not split the billet. I have seen a good bit of cases where when the whole entire blade is quenched and the stainless actually rips the high carbon apart right down the middle. After I finished grinding out the unwelded portion on the current billet I made this afternoon, I may end up cutting in a preform and then forging bevels into a finished knife profile. All depends on how much more I have to grind out of the billet, as the majority was welded. Bob Brandi, as long as you thermocycle the blade properly, there is really no need to rush it off to tempering after quench. I do however do that immediately after for any knife that I make. I have blades that were quenched and not put in into temper until a few days later, and there has been no ill effect.

I started a journey into learning how to forge, and decided it was time I give forging a knife a try. I have done many stock removal knives, but want to take my knife making business to the next level and start learning more. As usual, I jump feet first into things and thought to myself, I want to do a stainless san mai. I dont know if I got lucky, or all the steps of the initial prep work led to have a first successful forge welding experience, let alone stainless to high carbon. Once I had the billet finished I cut out and ground the profile, and finished the knife, and made a leather sheath to go along with it. 410 Stainless and 1095 HC Maple burl and black palm scales with orange and white G10 liners and orange G10 pins. 8-9oz leather sheath made in house as well. Let me know what you all think.

The leveling bolts are only to take a little wobble out due to my concrete floor when I move it to different positions. I have pieces of hdpe that slip on the end of those bolts to absorb any shock from the actual bolts contacting the floor. Same idea I have used on equipment I have installed in the field that has shock loading or high vibration. So far, only one out of those 4 bolts need to contact the floor to take the extremely small wobble it may have out. I will definately keep an eye out on them though to see if I get any issues with concrete spalling or chipping out due to the contact of the bolts with the concrete floor. I know all you guys have probably extensive experience in what works and doesnt. Thanks for the insight, it is much appreciated.

New stand I just finished up for my Fisher anvil. 4 x 4's glued and lagged together in groups of threes, then those 3 groups glued and bolted together with 3/8" all thread. Cut out holders on the plasma for some hammers, tongs, pliers and hard hole tools for the top, and and an angle iron frame for the bottom with 4 corner bolts to take any wobble out due to my concrete floor.

I believe it is right around 150#, cannot remember off hand the exact weight. Frosty, its 1 1/8", I do plan on welding in the remain sides to make a hardy hole on that as well.

This is my improvised anvil that I just recently started forging with. Built a steel stand with hammer and tong holders built into it. It is a large roll for a turning machine from a job I had previously had that they were tossing because it had a crack in it at the corner of the keyway slot. It is hardened 4140.

I'll look that one up and post it up there. It sure is heavy and has great rebound without any ring.

Frosty, It definitely works well. Great rebound and no ring! Its 1 1/8" key way, and that has been my plan to may a nice hardy hole out of it. I kind of got distracted last week when I was gifted an 1885 Fisher anvil, now my focus has been on getting a new stand built for it since the log it was on was really soft and un level on the bottom. Going for wood for this stand.

Red, heres a couple pictures of the knife once oiled up. Pictures arent the best, tlmy wife excels on the camera.

SLAG and Thomas The handle is dyed and stabilized maple burl wood. My absolute favorite handle material with so many curls and eyes everywhere. I know exactly what you mean about the torment of lost souls, it is not the first time I have heard someone say something similar. The blade material is 1095. Thanks Daswulf. Gotta get over to my shop to check it out and try out my ASO and the newly acquired free Fisher anvil. Feel like I need to watch you forge some more so I can learn. Red, I appreciate the kind words. I have been doing this for about 2 years, maybe a little bit longer, sold maybe 20 blades total, given away alot. This knife here was stock removal, not forged. Still working on perfecting my forge of knives, first few looked like complete trash, but I will definately post the first forge one up once Im happy. Ill get some pictures up possible later this evening as I just oiled it up earlier, I have to get my wife to get the pictures taken for our business page on facebook. She takes much better photos than I do.

Just finished this one up this evening. Just need to oil the handle and finishing sealing it, and oil the blade. Oddly enough this is my first hidden tang that wasnt a Wa style handled kitchen knife.

They make something called a Multi Tool Grinder for bench grinders. I started out making knives with one of them before I built my 2 x 72 grinder, and it did quite well. I think they are reasonably price IIRC and come in different sizes, I used the 2 x 36 and still have it.

Three leg stand for my ASO. I built in 6 hammer holders and 5 tong or plier holders inbetween the legs. The holes on the base plate work well for holders of different things as well.

That is a feed roll for a turning machine that turned 4" diameter titanium. Think the reverse of a lathe, bar was fed into machine with a rotating head that removed the material. Its hardened 4140, 5" thick and 13.5" diameter. The place I worked at before I got laid off due to the pandemic was tossing it due to a crack at the keyway slot. I asked if I could have it and they said yes. It sat on my floor for about a year, and when I couldnt find a decent anvil, I got the bright idea to use it as my anvil. Works quite well, has crazy rebound and doesnt ring.