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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by BartW

  1. Hello; Coming from Belgium, I know the beginnings of Belgium and German anvils, but i know awfully little about Dutch anvils. I know they were a "thing" given the shipbuilding history; but I've never been confronted with one. Maybe Technicus Joey (youtube) knows something about this anvil ? Can you test the anvil ? IE, how hard is it, how is the ring/ rebound ? does it have a steel top plate and a softer body ? Is it one-piece steel ? VR really doesn't tell me anything, sorry.
  2. Instead of welding a leg (I'd recommend frosty's method); as an alternative, you could make a matching "socket" which you mount on the floor, as such you can make a low socket and a high socket; depending on your needs ? The stump looks round; it should be possible with a lathe to make a matching socket with a snug fit.
  3. you didn't damage it at all. an anvil is just a tool. Historically absolutely fantastic work has been done on a block of iron we'd call a sledgehammer head. Your creativity and motivation is much more important than your anvil.
  4. Hello All; I wasn't really looking for anvils, but for some reason, anvils tend to find me (odd enough). Yesterday some guy contacts me via my buddy from the railways-maintenance company, and asks if I'm still interested in an anvil. So I said "sure". Can't imagine a blacksmith or bladesmith would answer something else. He says:" Well, we were cleaning this place; and we found a rusty old anvil, and we know you seem to like the previous one. So if you are interested, we'll set it aside; and tomorrow we'll discuss price and such." Sooooo I grab some pocket change and 3 crates of 24 x 33cl belgian beer, and head off. Now I'm back home with less beer and more anvil, and they are a happy crew ;-) Funny thing; both previous skoda's were excactly 154 kilo's; and had an upsetting block. This one is 195,5 kilo's (431 pounds says the calculator), and no upsetting block, but longer and wider, same height. one-piece cast tool steel, hardened. about half a mm sway, and some minor edge-damage (the wire-brushing I did makes the edge damage look worse than it really is). I'm nog sure what to do with the stand though .... it's solid enough, but I still kinda prefer tripods or tree-sections. Friendly greetings, thanks for watching. P.S. it's good to be back after a long absence.
  5. I got one fairly similar, built in 1908 in Belgium in Herstal in the guns factory. I find the holes in the side with different radii usefull for making coal shovels and such. It behaves different from a solid cast tool steel anvil, but it's very pleasant to forge on. You can find a LOT info about it here :
  6. From my testing into this subject; There are 3 parameters of an anvil base important: 1. mass of anvill base. 2. how rigid the anvil is secured. 3. The material of which the stand is made. Short answer: yes; an anvil base can have a large effect on the performance of al anvil. I have 2 identical anvils; modern solid one piece very hard tool steel. One is perfectly affixed to a wooden stump - zero motion; and the stump is affixed to the concrete floor. The other had the same kinda of stump; but was strapped down ... massive difference. Than I changed to a steel tripod; and again massive difference. my prefererence right now is either a hardwood stump glued to the floor and the anvil glued to the base so you have an immobile anvil. OR a steel tripod with filled legs and reinforcements. Most notably is the sound produced difference; I like my anvils as muted as possible.
  7. Hello Everybody; I recently got a box of these (literally a couple dozen). I handled 3 (long handle; medium and short) and parked them in the garden shed; but how many does anyone need .... Goofing around I already made a warhammer from it, but this is more cutting parts off and grinding some. But it's good steel (I guess C50, as it hardens in water and it's somewhat the standard steel of the supplier), so I wonder; can you forge this thing into an axe ?
  8. I've seen one just like it - even the blue paint - in a metal workshop near Amsterdam. It looks good; modern cast steel anvil; but I don't have more details than that.
  9. or make angled thick washers to distribute the pressure. Now all pressure will be pointed upwards and attempt to shear / split the wood. Like a knife trying to cut a piece wood off. But this will hold an anvil down fairly effecient.
  10. That's what I was told by someone who works for the railroads and does metallurgy. But I know these things can vary a lot and it wouldn't suprise me to have different standard in the USA compared to the EU. But on the other hand; they are basically springs.
  11. Those RR clips (springy, like simple 1084 steel) in the video above are not the same as a pandrol E-clip (high manganese, high silicon 5160 steel).
  12. I played with pandrol clips a bit, and they make great tools (punches, chisels, drifts ... ). But I found they are really sensitive to forging too cold; and they need an extensive heat treatment with many normalizing cycles to maximize performance.
  13. Great idea. I've seen you have adopted the golf-ball handle philosofy too ?
  14. Welcome aboard ! my 2 cents: 1. All Anvils can chip. even plain mild steel can chip over time with enough deformation. 2. Don't get blinded by the HRC value. Steel quality and edge radius are much more important. I have a glass hard anvil with sharp edges; and I haven't been able to chip it (and I tried). Reason; this is a professionally hardened 1.2379 aka D2 press block for stamping things. I have some skoda(s), some UAT and some ancient anvil from 1908. The skoda's are cast tool steel and ridiculously hard; yet I haven't been able to chip it. The corners are radiussed, and the previous owners did chip it. The 1908 anvil will baely scratch with a file; but even that has chipping damage. So could you chip a modern anvil? YES. But if you use your tool wisely, it won't chip, and the anvil will serve you and the generations after you.
  15. Welded steel tripod for the 150 kilo/ 330 pound skoda. Half inch baseplate out of steel; 2.5 inch thick wall square tube legs at 14° angle, filled with dry sand and ash. I reinforced the baseplate; and the anvil is screwed down with 4 M16 bolts. there's a leather liner inbetween the stand and the anvil. it's more quiet than the original wooden stand. I love it. The picture is strange, it looks like the legs too straight down, but the wooden base was narrower.
  16. you're right; "best" without context is meaningless. In my case; i'd like it to be as silent as possible. and strong enough to support a 400 pound anvil.
  17. Hello; Quick question; I've been using 60 mm square tube with 3 mm walls; But I've also seen round tube; H-beams, U-beams, angle iron, 20 mm thick iron; 30mm solid iron ... So what would be best suited ? For an anvil tripod stand welded together. greetings, Bart
  18. If you're considering tempering something like a knife in a charcoal forge; Keep the edge out of the fire (as the fire is WAY too hot; and your spine of your knife will be WAY too hot too); and quench in water as soon as you get to the right colour. The difficult part is getting the colour uniform; but this comes with pratice. Kitchenovens or professional heat treating ovens; you set a temperature, and it will stay at that excact temperature; so no need to quench off excess heat build up in the spine.
  19. Hello; Yes, it's possible, and it isn't hard. Clean up a part so you can see bare steel; and allow the heat to creep up slowly, and judge by the tempering colours. That's everything below dark grey in the picture below.
  20. That one looks good; and from some other pictures of that old anvils on this forum, that face looks fairly new. So I'd say pretty much excactly what Irondragon posted.
  21. Hello; Praxis Oak might be fairly low-grade oak; which may not be dried for the required amount of time. You'll have to see for yourself. I've found usefull pieces of Afzelia, padouk and beech in praxis-like shops in Belgium. So i'd say; it depends. I usually test with my tumbnail; if I can dent it easily, it isn't good
  22. Cherry, magnolia, rhododendron, chestnut also good wood for handles. Actually I just use what seems good and what I happen to have on hand
  23. I've used European Oak, Walnut, Beech, Elderberry wood and Robinia pseudoaccacia. many others too, but these i keep around. Oak is good for things you don't hold in your hands for long, as the wood will blacken your skin. sooo chisels, punches ... Walnut is good for knifes & such, as it's pretty, not specifically strong. Beech is like cheap ash :-) ... it's not as strong, but it absolutely loves danish oli; and becomes watertight and dark brown. So short handles, like hammers. Elderberry, walnut is really light but still flexible, makes good broomhandles and things like that. Robinia is harder and stronger than hickory, less pretty tough but more difficult to find. makes great axe and hammer handles.
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