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Everything posted by BartW

  1. That is expensive. The form; the shape and the quality reminds me of this anvil below. It looks like a faceplate, but in reality it's a cast steel anvil, hardened face. Made in germany, but by a lower-end manufacturer, as mine had a fairly soft face. Workable, but every ding I made annoyed me so much I stopped using it, especially given that i have another 3 anvils that are Extremely hard. I ended up selling that one. I wouldn't pay that much money for it; "Used ain't new".
  2. Well; I know a foundry that can cast H13 or 1.2379 (D2 with some heavy vanadium in it), and if money is no issue, I'll think up a design. And a matching stand. and a matching swage block with foot. And given that they probably got a minimum amount of steel for one casting; a workbench ? one can dream ... On the other hand, I'm pretty set; I got two gorgeous Skoda anvils; First I thought they were 115 kilo's (250 pounds), but after weighing them they turn out to be 160 kilo's (350 pounds). Double horned solid tool steel, hardened & tempered face; softening down to the foot. I got both for next to nothing, so I already considered myself extremely lucky.
  3. It was actually a crate like the picture below, with the comfy handle in the middle. So a metal stand, with the anvil strongly fixed to it, would silence the anvil? hmmm maybe I need to try that. greetz; bart
  4. Looks like a nice anvil, but it also looks suspiciously never-used (crisp edges, crisp holes) ... but I'm no expert on anvils on the other side of the pond
  5. So don't worry about the "crack" (there's no trace of it on any other side, and the anvils rings like one piece) ? Has anyone ever seen a casting flaw like this ? It's a real ear-buster, it makes a half a minute very high pitch resonant ring which is truly unpleasant. Anyone any suggestion for a mobile stand that deadens the rings of an anvil ? greetz; bart
  6. Hello All; Every since I made some railway guys happy with a crate of beer for taking an ugly hunk of old tar off their hands (which turned out to be a gorgeous anvil), I've been kinda known as "that guy who likes anvils". Well; The railroad guys were taking apart another shop in the path of a new railway; and they found this anvil buried under the wood. They considered selling it; but didn't because it had a "crack" . They were considering tossing it in the to-recyle-metals container. So they called me to have a look, and so I went with a fresh crate of beer. I left the beer there, and left with the gorgeous beauty below. What they considered a "crack", is under closer inspection actually a casting flaw; like a pebble making it's way to the surface of the liquid steel. You can even see the pebble in the foot belox; right where the track leeds. It rings a church bell - seriously WAY to loud to be usable in an urban area. We defenitly need to tone this one down. It has crisp edges, even the holes seem hardly used. It's prefectly flat, rebounds in the 95-99% range; and seems to have a 1 inch thick hardened steel plate on top. it's 110 kilo's; which is 242 pounds. I can move it around for a couple of feet by myself; but it's killing my back. I cleaned it with a steel brush and rubbed some linseed oil on it. What do you guys think of this save ? Usable anvil ? It seems like it hasn't seen much use at all .. It was cast 1970-1972 according to the UAT factory specs.
  7. Very nice. looks like a very nice usable chisel after some clean up. Congrats. Feels good doesn't it ? Did you notice the difference in reaction to your hammer blows ? Once a weld is set; it feels like a solid piece of steel under a hammer; before it feels different .. more mushy, less rebound.
  8. Very nice knife actually. I would take the grind up higher too; for cutting performance and looks. How did you harden / temper it ? You also did a great job on the surface finish; you must have spent hours on that. Well done. As for the micarta; depending on which kind, and if you don't have access to sandblasting equipement; but you could also use a rotary steel brush on a bench grinder on it; in some micarta's it gives a nice finish ( like an orange peel texture - less slippery yet stil fairly dark).
  9. Light taps. And indeed, O1 contains very little chrome, but as long as you aren't welding it to itself, it should be OK. and the Manganese makes really nice black lines in damascus after some instant coffee etch
  10. Hello Guys; Wel today the guys at work were playing around with some huge chunks of soft pure copper in a mill. Then a guy asks me what they could mill for a testrun. At first I said a hammer, then he pointed to a stack of copper blocks with various hammer holes milled out. So I said "a hardie block?". Took me 5 minutes to explain what it was; but they were all in favor of doing something else (step-milling) then drilling in copper. Now I have a really big hardy hole; 35 mm(1,4 inch). So this thing is 55 mm (2,2 inch) square and 40 mm (1,6inch) high . Weighs about 1,5 kilo or 3 pounds. I had to hammer it in the hardie hole a couple times, hence the hammer marks covering the machining marks. Now other then cutting it up for other things, is this usefull ? It sits really tight, it has several usefull 90 degrees angles, and I can use a top cutting tool without fear of damaging the cutting tool (haven't found a top cutting tool that could even scratch my anvil). Soooo is this thing usefull ? It was free, so nothing lost except half an hour of my time. I also took the rest of the copper "test-pieces" home; trading stock
  11. I never flux between the layers, but as soon as I see colourchange - dark reddish - I start to put flux on it. At first once molten it's like thick sticky goo; but as flux gets hotter, it becomes as thin as water. If your billet is well fluxed, it will "flow" inbetween. and once it starts bubbeling and boiling; you're at the correct temperature. And your forge really doesn't look hot enough; so I share evfreek's opinion on the IR thermometer. Can you verify that thing with an actual thermometer with a K-type thermocouple ?
  12. 2100 degrees F is good enough for forgewelding, but somewhat on the low side as once you take it out of the forge it start cooling down very quickly. Especially for mild steel; you are looking for that yellow-white hot. Your forge doesn't look hot enough on the inside. If you are using borax; you need to look at it, and when it start bubbeling like boiling all over the piece (including the underside and inbetween the layers); you are at forgewelding temp on the outside of your billet. Give some time to soak then forgeweld. There should be enough borax so the whole billet looks wet. Your choice of materials is also ... questionable. Mild steel can be forgewelded; but since you don't actually know what it is; you can never be sure. I've had large bars that just wouldn't forgeweld at all, later I found they had added lead in the steel composition to make it more malleable and machineable.... The leaf spring is pretty much the same. I've had leaf spring for cores of laminates; I've used leaf springs in damascus. But I've also found leafsprings that just wouldn't weld together. This is typically with chrome in steel. I've always had trouble to weld chrome or nickel steels to themselves. I usually add a layer of something like O1 or 1095 inbetween, makes welding a LOT simpler. So if I may give you some advice; 1. Use something really simple like clean ground degreased O1 / file billet. Don't weld something containing chrome or nickel to itself. Keep the chrome containing steels for later when you've mastered this. 2. Make it really REALLY hot. The borax should be bubbeling on your anvil when you're hitting it. 3. I've learned most students the 3-welding heats principle. First welding heat; light taps, one side only. Basically just "set" the welds. Clean, flux. Second welding heat, on the other side , somewhat heavier taps, you should "feel" that the billet becomes one piece. Clean, flux. Third heat, hammer all you like; even on the sides, it should stay together and act like one piece of steel. Hope this helps.
  13. Hello All; Fresh from the forge; a customer-spec nakiri / usuba inspired knife. Specs: 160 mm cutting edge; thickness of cutting edge before sharpening is 0.2 mm. full flat ground; rounded back.3 mm thick 35 mm wide. Steel : 1.2442, I love this stuff. HRC 65. Materials: Reindeer guard; gray leather spacer, kingswood handle. The handle is far longer than I would have made it, about 50 mm; but the customer wanted it really long and flat at the end to crush garlic. This is also why kingwood was selected; no food poisoning danger. What do you guys think ? I recon it can cut up an apple or two once sharpened
  14. Well; grind it as clean as possible, all the cracks out and such; and heat the anvil up to really hot, only then can you weld it. Well it's a little more complicated than that; slow cooling and excact temps depend. I'm intrested in the results
  15. Hello Guys; Railways are usually 0.7 to 0.8 % Carbon steel; with lots of maganese. i'll add a picture of the various grades in use in europe. Without a power hammer; that seems verrrrrry hard. I know the steel doesn't move well under the hammer.
  16. I put in a could of drops of that oil to make machine coolant, gives it a milky-white look. no more mosquito's :-) It's probably not that healthy, but it preserves the water much better over time. Also helps against freezing.
  17. I'd recommend steel tipped boots + shin armour if you use them like that
  18. I think people tend to overestimate their own qualities as a welder, and underestimate how hard it is to actually weld an anvil correctly without ruining it's functionality. You almost need to be a professional welder with a profound knowledge of metalurgy and anvils. I can get two pieces of metal to stick with various forms of welding and brazing, and I know quite a bit about hardening steels and such, but i don't consider myself good enough to weld an anvil, nor do I have the experience on how to NOT ruin the temper and grain of an anvil. Will I use a hardfacing rod to touch up an anvil ? depends. On my own anvils ? nope / never. On an anvil which is going to be used and I'll be accountable if something breaks/cracks? Nope. But if someone brings a real beat up anvil; and I explain them up front that I give no guarantees at all, and this will cost a nice penny in just my wasted time alone ... sure, I'll weld that. I've hardfaced vulcan's with a good chunk of the faceplate missing twice. Is the anvil as good as a new vulcan? No. But it will look shiny and straight. And sometimes that's all people want... a nice shiny straight anvil. Once a woman asked me to put a layer of stainless steel on top; so she could put the anvil outside as a memory to her late husband - and he was a hobbyist blacksmith who kept his anvil so flat and clean with a grinder the entire faceplate was almost gone except a couple millimeters. Wasn't a good anvil either, but I did that job for free. Every time I drive by her house and see that shiny anvil in the garden, makes me smile That was also a really good job for PR, because after that one, my requests for knives, sharpening services and other forgings almost doubled.
  19. Here's my new stand. I complained the glue wasn't really heat-resistant (the hot scales tend to give the previous one a epoxy-resin smell); they told me to mix some fine white sand in the glue; and when curing; spray it with ashes. And so I did. The block of wood is 20 year old dry larix (hard woord). The block is glued to the floor; and the anvil is glued to the block. the straps are for security (the other one doesn't have straps) and preventing splitting. This anvil is a solid one piece really tool steel, and it used to be a real ear-buster; with the absolute immobility towards the ground; it has become very dead; even in the horns. You do feel it in your feet when you are whaling away at it with a sledgehammer; probably the concrete below transferring the shock. I added a pic of the glue itself (check the actual use-case of that stuff ). and I added a picture of my upsetting block; which is mostly in use because of it's nice square corners. The beer is optional
  20. Well; I checked the powerpoint of the safety instructor, and he states the ISO norms : NEN-Iso 525 and NEN-EN 12413+A1.
  21. Well it isn't mine, and given it's not my property the owners can do with it pretty much what they want. It's just sad. Especially when It might have been usefull for someone searching for an anvil.
  22. I've seen the old workshops of Dave Budd (youtube) and Pavel Rihacek (pictures), both of which didn't have electricity (landline; Dave had a generator if I recall correctly) nor running water. Pavel used to use only a drill as electrical tooling. But instead of trying to recycle the heat to power a blower; how about a gasforge with venturi burners ? You could even make a ceramic chip forge with the burners below, if you want it feel like a solid fuel forge. Doesn't use electricity, but you don't need to recycle the heat either because you use the venturi effect of the gas burners. mvg; Bart
  23. In the safety courses at work they explained some european standards about grinding disks. In the 115 mm (4,5 inch) and up grinding disks, they all should have at least a one sided metal washer. And this washer should go against the machine, regardless of on which side the sticker is. This "guideline" is mandatory to get your disks sold in the EU. For the heavier disks, they should have metal on both sides (but sometimes they are only one sided too) and on one side the rotation direction should be indicated. This is a guideline which isn't mandatory. So the baseline is; metal washer against the machine. At least so they tell the welders and mechanics :-) greetz; Bart
  24. I've got three of these, and a bunch of 3M, dräger, deltaplus respirators and various safety glasses for courses. Everybody always starts with just safety glasses, for the forging. when the grinding starts; people add a respirator. by the time they are done - grinding wood for the handles mostly - the three diving masks are in a waiting queue... as in; people having used them; will wait untill one becomes free to finish grinding their knife handle. Adding those peel off things might actually be a good idea; I'll probably try that given that the front of this snorkling mask is almost completely flat.
  25. Hello All; Well; after I've shed some tears, I've found a destroyed anvil. I was looking for anvils as usual; but I let this one go ... as it's essentially destroyed. But there's a lesson here: NEVER mill the face of an anvil. Even grinding is nope (except in case where you know what you're doing). The pics below say enough. You can even see where base comes peeking through the top plate. Also very strange horn shape. Probably someone who found this (good) anvil; but wanted to sell it for 'new', and had access to a large mill; so he probably milled off most of the top plate. Sad ...