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Everything posted by BartW

  1. Hello all, There's a crate of beer in a bet here. Buddy of mine gave me a epoxy-ish glue, which is made to glue steel plates to (worn) wooden beams for train track construction. It's not for glueing rails down, but the plates where the rails are screwed on. Seems to be strange glue. It's ignorant to water, but penetrates wood & rusted steel like crazy (like the underside of the base of my anvil). Anyway, he told me it would hold down an anvil. I told him I'd get him a crate of beer if that would work. Hence the wager. My buddy didn't even used lots of glue. We decided I'd use it for a month, see if I could get it to loosen up. I got to keep the rest of the glue, so I got a couple liters of this glue now. Might also be good for attaching hamer heads to handles... Now I have a stump of wood, sanded flat, with a heavy flat based anvil glued to it. Secured to the concrete floor. Any thoughts how long this will last? Also the dampening effect of this is spectacular. Much less noise. Mvg Bart
  2. Well, today I tried to "pull" the anvil off the wooden stump by attaching a chain block to the round hardy hole and pulling it up. Hoping to shear the glue on that side. Result: nope. The ligt angle iron holding the stump on the concrete (there's 4 of m), bent open and the stump lifted. Strange observation though, yesterday the glue was like epoxy - hardening like a hard brittle plastic - today it seems more like hard silicone rubber. It is also impossible to remove from wood, unlike epoxy it seems to bond with the wood. I also find myself favoring this anvil over the other one. Could be because it's lower or doesn't ring anymore.. Or both. Sooo I'll continue to use it. In a couple weeks I'll start "destructive" testing. Mvg Bart
  3. BartW

    Anvil Harem

    Having asked a similar question before, the answer is you cannot have enough (except when running out of room to put them) , there is an optimal based on your work. I got too much so I end up giving them away to "sponsor" beginning Blacksmiths and bladesmiths. Greetz, Bart.
  4. My anvils have several radii all over. I know on the old one pretty much where what radius is, on the new one not so much yet. I don't think I could work with one uniform radius all over. It would look better though. Mvg Bart
  5. Well I got a box of those double tubes, they say there shelf life is 20 years so I'm OK in the glue department. :-) I added a picture of the glue in question, on the bottle there a picture of it's intended use. Seems to harden fast at first, then slower. Full hardness after 6 hours. I've been beating at the anvil with a sledgehammer (axe making). Doesn't move, no cracks yet. I'm beginning to think the weak part is the stump of pine wood... Mvg Bart
  6. Hello All; Just wanted to show my workshop (yes, I know, I have too much tools ), and a group of people making their first knife. They wanted to use both the gasforge and the coal forge, so we did the heavy metal moving in the gasforge; and the finishing and heat treatment in the coal forge. It was fun, educational, and everybody left with a razorsharp knife. All participants were absolutely amazed about their own creations. A couple have already said they want to do it again to improve on this or that parts of their knife. I told all of them that your first knife is something precious, don't modify it at all. If you want to improve it, make another. Just FYI, I do this kinda thing once or twice a year, on request of a group of people between 4 and 8 people. And it motivates me to clean my workshop
  7. Hello all, The history of the older brother : Skoda anvil Anotger railway worker contacted me, told me he had something that I might be interested in, and he would trade it for a case of beer. So I went and came back with this anvil : It's an exact copy of my Skoda, also 115 kilo, solid tool steel, file hard top, going to hrc 50-55 ish in the foot. Finest I've struck, moves metal better than a 250 kilo anvil with a surface hard plate. Hardly any wear (dished about 2 mm), minor edge chips. I gave the dude two cases of beer and a knife to show my appreciation. My weekend is good, and I got pain in the back for lifting this in the car. Mvg Bart
  8. BartW

    Anvil twins..

    Hello; Do you mean this guy : Hefty prices indeed, lowest is around 1500$.
  9. BartW

    Anvil twins..

    Well: I'll be honest, I didn't see this one coming either; and I already considered myself lucky in the anvils department. If any of you guys come to belgium, we can hammer some stuff together, so you can try it yourself. From what the guy at skoda foundry works told me they were cast from battle-ship-gun-barrel-steel. All I can tell you is they move steel better than a 250 kilo steel faced anvil. They do have big holes (the square is 30 x 30 mm, the round is 25 mm) and no pritchel hole. Now I do have a question however, but how much would they be worth these days? I know the new Refflinghaus go for about 2000 $, and I've yet to see a second hand Refflinghaus. just FYI, I'm not planning on selling either.
  10. Cool. Excellent example of good forging. Proof that even the fanciest anvil and hammer don't make you a good Blacksmith, a lesson for the younger generation. Only practice, learning (from mistakes) and a bit of talent and stubborn - ness will make you a good or bad Blacksmith or bladesmith. Mvg Bart
  11. BartW

    Makeshift anvil

    For a stand, less pieces is usually better. If you had access to a tree stump segment, that would be better. Also; cut the burned ends of the rail off; and mount it vertically. You really don't need more surface than the size of your hammer; but you want it to be fixed as solid as possible. I got myself a rail too; then mounted it vertically to a block of wood; then welded 2 pieces of metal to each size of the rail (those welding plates they use to attach one rail to the other ), and ground the surface flat, welded hardfacing rod, ground again and so on ... used that for about 2 years until I had access to much better anvils. Seriously, the white boards will shatter and make the whole unstable after a while; and the long pieces sticking out on the sides cannot be used either.
  12. I have more confidence in my post vises than in my machinist vices, but to me the answer to your question on how to prevent it from walking is just add more weight. In my case that would mean add a couple of steel 60 pound disks Also; I'm not sure yet if I prefer twisting horizontally or vertically ... Jury is still out on that one.
  13. BartW

    leg vise spring alternative.

    Hello; Just found this one. Very strange setup - couple parts missing - ; but the spring is quite intresting. Why hasn't anyone ever done this ? Seems like a viable alternative to a leaf spring.I got to try this kind one one of mine too some day :-) greetz; Bart
  14. BartW

    Firminy “pig”

    I've played with a couple of firmingy pigs, general round 450 pounds. The hardie hole is "strange"; it usually isn't all the way through; but there is another hardie hole 90 degrees on it; horizontal from the side.This serves to hammer a wedge in to eject the hardie hole from the top. Or the other way around; so you could have an anvil with a horizontal hardy hole. Not all have this "feature" though, I've found some with the hardie hole on the other side, all the way through. Those with a 2-part hardie system should come with the wegde chisel... it's specific to each anvil. They are IMHO uglier than a square plain block. They aren't called "pigs" for nothing That being said, I've tested 6, they all had a straight face; 4 had a thick faceplate - 30 mm or more. 2 were one piece cast steel (these are also newer). my hardness files said between 50 and 60 HRC. They are good anvils; and the sloping arc gives you plenty of options for hammering. For some reason they also makes less noise than a standard german or london pattern anvil. So; if you can get them - go for it. They are good anvils. Good steel too; made by Bonpertus in the days; with good pure carbon steel for the face; and these guys kept the best steel for these anvils. They were expensive; even in france, even back in the day. mvg; bart
  15. Hello All; When looking at the second hand sites in Belgium-Netherlands- Germany - France; I noticed there are a lot of anvils, but all are verrrry old and more important, if you want a harder face; all you'll find are vulcans. Most don't even have a makers mark. This seems strange, as a couple of great makers of anvils are in this region (Refflinghaus, UAT ...) that make a LOT of anvils. Given the average lifespan of an anvil, and the amount of companies that could use them (and their lifespan), why don't we find truckloads of refflinghaus, UAT, PFP, picard ... anvils in this region ? Then I met a second hand sales guy (retired metal worker), who told me he sold about 600 anvils a year; every time he gets a cast steel or high quality, it gets bought by a swiss metal dealer, who collects them by the truckload and pays 4€/kilo (2 $ / pound). This is very strange, so I did some investigating, and indeed, most "named" anvils also from other guys gets bought by a swiss metal dealer, who sells / ships thousands of them every year to the USA (or so they told me). Really hard to track; so I asked and asked and aksed in the port of Antwerp if they had seen containers full of anvils. This costed me a crate of beer Yesterday, one guys showed me a pic of a container manifest which he said was full of random sized used anvils with letters on them. Bingo. What they do in the USA I have no clue, but the relative absence on the market of (for example) UAT anvils in the USA tells me they are not sold to blacksmiths. The Swiss guy doesn't answer any mails; but the shipping crates go to new york, to a company called Simms (or something like that - can't really read it ). Now question ... are you USA guys shipping our european anvils over there to melt into other things? Is 2$ / pound expensive or cheap for good steel ? Or do you guys have a couple of collectors that have a couple thousand of anvils ? Greetings, bart
  16. Ah we 're all getting along in life. Perhaps not in the direction or at the speed we would like, but we are going anyway. If you are in this business long enough, an anvil is just another tool. A decade ago an old German bladesmith gave me a 300 pound square block of D2 (1.2379) hardened completely. A file skates over it everywhere. I've been comparing any anvil to it, and most I checked sucked. After I registered to this forum and read a lot, I realized I've been spoiled. But every body who wants to get started in blacksmithing or bladesmithing in these parts is royally xxxxxxx. Especially if all the good ones go across the big water. Mvg Bart
  17. BartW

    Angle grinder

    3M cubitron 2 cutting disks; flap disks and fibre disks. flex-o-vit, Tyrolit & Norton aren't bad either, but 3M beats them for working hard steel. As for machines; I've got 2 Metabo WQ1450 grinders, using 125mm disks (the standard small ones), also got a bosch and a einhell. One makita and one metabo 8inch 230 mm disk grinder. I'll tell you from having held both in my hands cutting - grinding for countless days ... the metabo's are a lot better and safer. I love the safety clutch and the fact they produce less vibration. Haven't touched the bosch or einhell in a solid year, and the 8 inch makita once last week when I was to lazy to swap the disk . the makita is close behind the metabo's tough.
  18. Hello All; Back to the question at hand, I kept mine from moving at all. And if I want it to be even heavier, I can add more weight. check the last pics in this thread : The goal of this setup is to have it outside in the summer (less dust inside) and inside in the winter (too moist & cold). Works well for twisting and even heavy hammering.
  19. Hello Guys; Some time ago I found these in the trashbin of a large company. I've attached a picture. All of the toys are brand new - some are even in the plastic sleeve they get sold in- even tough they have some rust, like on the wrenching bar. each bucket is about 30 kilo (60 pounds). The three largest reamers are 5 kg each The brands are "cleveland" and "Dormer" for the drills; a couple reamers are marked "Dormer" as well; most reamers hawever have no markings except their size. Now I have 3 questions. 1. The large reamers (65, 50 and 40 mm) don't look like HSS. The mill-scale is all wrong (large spotty); the colour is too black, and the socket end files easier than solf-annealed HSS. Anyone know what steel they are ? 2. The bucket of drills are almost all in the 24mm to 36 mm range, all mk4 socket. But a couple have hardly any spiral, while some have almost 3 whole rounds... anyone know why they use these almost straight drills ? 3. Can these be forged or turned (in a lathe) into usefull tools ? greetz; bart
  20. Well I don't particularly mind overseas trades. Anyone intrested ?
  21. Hello all, New knife as a laminating experiment. Center layer (W2 steel) isn't in the center after grinding, hence the difference in sides. But, it's ground full flat to zero, with a hrc 61 center layer. It even has a 30 degrees secondary edge (see the pics). It's extremely sharp. 6 mm spine. Specs : laminate W2 with 7 layers 15n2 \ c75. Bronze pin, bronze guard. 8 inch blade. It's larger than it seems. I love the lines. Very comfy handle too. Time for pics. What do you think?
  22. Well I used 2 trampoline springs and two steel wires around each post just below the box and screw. So I'd have a spring on each side pulling the jaws shut. I need to be able to remove it easily whithout unscrewing the whole vise to use the vise "normally" again. Still; bebeaux's idea seems better. Mount a hardy hole under it; and replace the one spring with 2 springs; and it's a good solution.
  23. That is cool... I was wondering to modify a leg vise in a manner so the jaws would pinch shut with a spring; so I could use it to hammer a drift down without needing to adjust the opening. But this method is way more simple, and seems more efficient. I'm going to try it at some point ...
  24. Well; I'm not a metalurgist, I was just telling was I was told... I honestly don't know the background; but you did provide a really nice paper which i'm defenitely going to read. Thanks Sly.
  25. Well; all (knife) steels have this window after quench, in some it's just so short you can't use it. check the picture in this blogpost, which is marked ttt diagram for 1050 steel : steel TTT diagram . Read the time below on the X-axis. given that we're talking about knives; let's assume 10 to 15 seconds to cooldown in the quenchant. You're basically drawing a straight line from top left to the x-axis where it says 10. Your straight line barely doesn't touch the pearlite/ bainite formation nose. Now untill you reach the horizontal line; your steel is still "malleable"; as if it was copper or pure iron. You can straighten a knife for example in this window with a wooden mallet on a flat piece of wood for example. This is also why if you aircool 1050 steel; it'll remain soft Any standard steels have room under that "nose", and if you remove the knife from your quench tank at say 450 °C; you have a couple of seconds to straighten knives; which will oddly enough keep this form and snap like glass 10 seconds later (once under the martensite formation line). I have a piece of L6 which I use to demonstrate this; heat to non-magnetic; soak a bit; quench in oil; a second after it loses red colour; take it out (it will burst into flames again when use organic oil); blow those out; bend it 30 degrees in a vise; back in the quenchant. a minute later; and cool; try to straighten the 30 degree bend, and it will shatter. I only show this to advanced bladesmiths; as there really is no time to do or think about anything else (or I'm too slow; also possible ). So; the "myth" that you can quench a steel; and straighten it very fast after; then back in the quench tank is scientifically correct . In fact I think you see Ilyia do this several times in the men at armes reforged series. However ... I've *never* been able to straighten a knife perfectly. The only perfectly straight knives I've had came out the quench straight or were ground perfectly straight.