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Everything posted by BartW

  1. Hello; Quenched in mineral fast oil; which makes it WAY too hard for a hammer (around HRC 64); cleaned up both faces; then heated up the drift to bright red; and let it sit untill both clean side were going to purples - I was aiming for HRC50 - 55 . Checking for cracks is always good, I found a couple in the tip. I always grind a piece clean with coarse grits; Then I dunk it in cooling liquid (water with oil), then warm it up slowly. Cracks will become visible due to the boiling black goo :-) I've always found this method somewhat "improvised"; does anyone have a better way to check for cracks ?
  2. I've made hammers from them; works fairly well.
  3. Here are my dogs: The brown one is cross between a chocolate labrador and an irisch setter; she was going to be put down due to her previous owner getting a divorce when she was about one year old; so my wife and me took her home. She 's the friendliest dog I've ever known, she loves everybody, hunts down mouse and rats, and loves to eat :-). She's 10 years old by now. The white one is a swiss shepard dog (Like a german shepard dog, but bigger and white ). He's 2 years old; and listens to the brown boss. Guards very well, and always aiming to work / do something for you. He's not really about to let anyone unchecked approach my workshop :-)
  4. Well I know a fair bit about workhardening in railroad track type steels. These are mangenese-carbon bound, as the typical modern RR track is essentially C80 or 1080 steel with about 1% manganese and between 0.15 to 0.6 % silicon inclusions. There are ASTM specifications for this. However; it's a fairly "dirty" steel for all intends and purposes. Lots of inclusions; casting artefacts and variability in quality. So bad even that Railroad track seems to absorb moisture if you put in in a bucket of water. As such, I wouldn't use it for knives or things with delicate cutting edges; but it's good for axes and splitting mauls ... You could get lucky and have a nice and clean piece of which you could make knives ... The quality is also the reason very few damascus makers will use it in pattern welded steel, although it makes nice dark lines due to the manganese content. It isn't very different from O1, just a lot less consistent and O1 has some vanadium and tungsten to make it a better knife steel. They work harden by plastic deformation, and as such make a good durable rail - the more trains cruise over them; the harder they get. However; they do not become near as uniform or as hard as a proper carbon steel that is heat treated correctly. The hardest rail we've found was around HRC 50. We also found spots were it was almost HRC 60; right before and after a weld. These welds also broke fairly fast; and we found out why; someone was pouring water over the red hot weld (and thus hardening it ! ). makes nice steam columns though My anvils are all in the HRC60 range, and much better quality steel.
  5. I'm from Belgium; and honestly, I cannot identify your anvil. I've seen quit a lot, but I've never seen this style, nor the inscriptions. I've seen you have ground a bit on the edges; do you have a clue what kind of steel / iron it is ? Is it hard (you can test with a file) ? It looks to be forged; but I cannot identify a faceplate; which would make it way old. Also; on the second hand websites there's a guy named "jack" from fairly close to me in Belgium; he deals in several hundreds anvils a year (he's a retired metalworker). Maybe ask him ? mvg; Bart
  6. Absolutely love it, and it came with lots of accessories.. I tried to mill a symmetrical grind on a bar d2. 4 degrees, works like a charm. Most of the tooling is carbide that came with it, and i like it best with this head in it at 1000 rpm. It is also very quiet. You stand next to it and talk normally while working. Can you identify all tools?
  7. Well I got it home, now I need to get it off the trailer. And outdoors I don't have a crane. I'm thinking of taking the table off (like the saddle of a lathe) but that thing itself is also way too heavy for me to carry. Or the head part with motor... Tramming the head to the table is needed off course. A teacher in machining told me once that it's best to let it sit in its place for a couple days before Tramming. Like leveling a lathe and fixing runout. I also got a large machine clamp, and a couple of mills, two three and four flute hss-co8, 20 mm mills. And a ER20 intake set for small mills. Mvg Bart
  8. I am familiar with bladesmithing, forge welding, grinding stuff, but I also have a large metal lathe, and I know how to make tread inside and out side, axles and bushings. Mostly from a repair point of view. Experienced machinist? Nope.
  9. Hello All; Tomorrow I'm getting this thing delivered (see picture below). What I know of it so far: 3000W Siemens motor, 380V (I've got a 380V in my workshop sooo) . Goes from 500 rpm to 4000 rpm; belt driven. 600 Kilo's (1200 pound). It's a swiss made thing; as the body on the back is marked "shaublin". It has an ISO 30 / SK 30 head; and it will be delivered with machine clamp; drilling head, and a box of milling cutters. There's integrated cooling (big box of cooling liquid in the foot.). I got it for fixing their network and a server (it helps to be an ICT engineer sometimes). I was up for a new column-drill; and I suppose this thing can drill holes too. But what can this thing do more ?
  10. I'd leave it as it is. Grinding that amount of sway out of the face will force you to remove LOTS of material, which will take years off the usable life of the anvil. Secondly, you risk going through the top plat at worst, or reaching softer material, which invites new dings and will make new sway happen faster, so you'll be grinding more as well. You cleaned it up nicely, now if you use it, it will develop it's own character. And the curves could be usefull is certain jobs. If you consider filling up parts (welding) ; that's even more complicated. You really need to be a skilled welder, preheat the anvil good; and have several types of specialized anvil repair sticks. My advice; NO grinding on the anvil; use it as it is; there's plenty of life left in that one.
  11. Oh my ... I'll make a couple dozen of those keys, can I get a couple dozen of anvils ???? ;-) You made a great deal. And I agree, the welds look ugly. I'd cut it free, and clean it up. There are only 2 situations I'd recommend taking a grinder on an anvil.. 1 for removing welds, 2 for severly beaten up faces, I'd grind it flat again *once*, preferably with those 36 grit fibre cubitron discs, Fix the edges, and than start sanding, usually to about 240 grit, so it's nice and shiny, and you can maintain it with a simple scotchrbite pad.
  12. I think it's a repair. Someone had the vise, worn the treads down (altough that usually happens on the male side of the screw), or most likely simply lost that part. After that it's just a matter of making a mold, casting a cylindrical object in brass, then use a lathe to do the rest. I've seen one be made from aluminium entirely on a lathe. Nice vise tough.
  13. Well, you can try with a small file, see if you can file into the top plate material near the crack, since if you're going to use this anvil, you might as well remove the cracked part. You could leave the corner (corner of the hardy hole to the start of the crack) to have something like a mini flat horn You shouldn't or barely be able to file the top plate since it should be hardened steel. But then run down the crack and do the same every inch or so. I think this is a one piece cast anvil. You'll either notice the same all over, or it reducing slightly in hardness going to the feet. This makes a very good anvil that your grandchildren can teach their grandchildren on how to forge. Unless you find a clear difference in the body and the top plate, those are very good anvils too (hardened faceplate). But than at least you know. I'd simply put her to use. Some minor grinding on the crack , face and horn, some wirewheeling all over, if you want to go fancy, you can even polish the face. Last, a couple good coats in linseed oil and you're good to go.
  14. Question; how hard is the foot ? I've seen "fake" top plates before in cast steel anvils; and the crack seems to me to be a one piece anvil .. That's probably also why the hardy hole half broke off.
  15. Well I do agree silicone caulk will help; but not for the reasons you think. Silicone caulk fixes the anvil in place, but keeps the anvil as a single object with a resonance. The harder it is fixed to a stump, the more it will become "one" object, and "one" object made from different resonanting materials cancel the sound out. I'd bet that if you use hard epoxy instead of silicone caulk, it'll even become less noisy. I tried it already on two identical (loud) cast very hard tool steel anvils, and I posted it here on the forums (glueing anvils down ). So I'd say try and make your anvil into a as homogenous and heavy as possible object, and don't consider a bolt or a strap enough to make it "one" object. on my mobile anvil, which I refuse to fix to my stand, I use a polyurethane rubben 3 mm sheeth; but it's nowhere near as efficient to deafen an anvil as glueing it down to a wooden block.
  16. I've seen anvils like these being made in Turkey when I went and visited the Sahinler factories. Normal soft iron body in 5 pieces forgewelded together, with a steel plate on top which is hardened. There were pictures in the factory tour where they forged these together. I couldn't find any markings on them either. However, regardless of the manufacturer of your anvil, I'd assume a plain iron or mild steel forged welded together body with a hard plate the equivalent of C80 or 1085 steel. greetings, Bart
  17. That Belgian guy referred to could be me. I have 2 of these babies; shown here : From what I guy from the Skoda foundry guy, these are cast tool steel anvils (it looks like a faceplate, but it is in reality a grind line from the tooling), and the steel is the same steel used for battleship guns. They are extremely hard - a file doesn't even scratch it. The foot on mine is made specific to this shape to have 4 large locking bolts holding the anvil down in naval usage. mvg; bart
  18. If you have welding experience, it is very tempting to clean out the crack and start welding at it. I know, I've been in the excact same situation. But trust me, it's a LOT harder to do this welding correctly than it seems. Also, I don't think it's worth it, since nothing you can do will improve the anvil. Just use it as it is; and if you do manage to break off that part; then worry about welding it back. About the hardy hole; I'd put it under my drill press, use the biggest diameter hole I could get without touching the square side, and drill entirely through, then chisel of file the rest. I assume you have tried simply beating it out
  19. Looks like a forged iron with a steel plate on top. If the crack doesn't go through the steel plate, I wouldn't worry about it at all. It looks like a fine anvil. About it not having a ring, don't worry about it either; a high pitch ring is good to drive you nuts and deafen you after a while. If you have many anvils; you will notice you will almost always tend to use the least noisy; unless you really really need another one for some reason. Mass under the hammer is the only thing that really matters; while rebound and hardness are only helpfull if you plan to miss often (less damage to the anvil).
  20. Well the offset idea is there, but to the right (which makes more sense if working with angle grinders). This one is more like a vise and less like a machine clamp. While mine is more of a hybrid. Mysterious vise...
  21. Some fun welding. I'll have to turn the straps into something more "blacksmithy" but they work. Half inch thick mild steel. Hard rubber padding to absorb sound.
  22. Hello all, I found this strange vise, 4 inch replaceable Jaws, it looks like a good machinist vise, except all the jaw is moved to the left. Also the screw and nut are strange, the screw is one long threaded rod, but the nut is like a pipe screwed on the back. There's thread inside all along the length. Tolerance is very small - machine clamp small. The whole thing is steel (checked with hardness files after i tried and failed to drill a holes). Also the rails have this bronze looking bar in a slot which you can adjust just like a adjustable cross-slide on a lathe or mill. The bottom is completely flat. Opens fairly far for such a small vise. Anyone know where these come from and why they are made like this?
  23. hello guys; I have a question concerning ribbon burners. I've seen how most are made; and all cast a block of refractory cement with straws or some other means of making holes in it; then attach it to a metal casing in which the gas/air mix is pushed, most often by a blower; but it's also possible naturally aspirated. In my position, I got plenty or basically any kind of steel/ iron / cast iron. But refractory cement ... is fairly pricy, especially the good stuff. Now suppose I don't feel like mixing refractory cement, and replace the hole-block part with a 1 inch thick cast iron plate full of holes... or 2 inch .. or a mild steel plate. Of course, I'm going to make sure that plate doesn't touch the metal box in the back to limit heat by convection by separating it with a insulating fibre board rated for verrry high temperatures (1260 °C) . The cast iron gets "cooled" on one side by the cold gas/air mix; and heated on the other side by the inside of the forge. This limits the cracking problem with casting refractory. And replacing the face plate when it's worn is not really a problem; 10 minutes with an angle grinder, and 20 minutes on a drill press. Also, my forge is mostly used on weekends, and I really like the "silence" of ribbon burners, as opposed to the roaring of my current venturi burners. Is that even possible ? Or is this a bad idea for some reason I'm missing ? mvg; Bart
  24. Hello; Well the overhang is already gone in this one I don't like the look of it either. Do you happen to know this brand ? i've never heard of it. Yet it seems a good portable anvil. mvg; Bart