Andrew C

I plan to replace it as soon as I get a better anvil and only use it for light duty work. I can't mount it as I need to keep it mobile for now.

I did fix the issue. I had to grind the sides of the rivet to get it out, flipped one side around, and got it set straight. On the plus side, I made my first tool to make a tool! I know I don't need a rivet setter and could have just hammered them flat, but I have 2 bent equalizer hitch bars that a friend was going to scrap. They aren't perfect and I plan to put the top tool on a diet at some point, but they worked for the 4 new tongs I made..

I finally got to run the forge for a few hours on Saturday and I took some pictures. I noticed that I don't have any noticeable dragon's breath. I was in full sunlight, but I figured I should at least see something? I also noticed that I am getting a fair amount of scale on the mild steel. I'm running at 5 PSI and the forge was on for a few minutes in these pictures.

Well, I can't believe I did this but I thought I would share...

Here is my stand and HF freebie. It is a 70+ year old wrought iron stand from the creamery on my family's farm.

I have been looking at fork truck tines and other things. Here is one for sale in my area for $700 on CL. It states that it is over 200#.

Thanks for all the replies! I'm on the lookout for a better anvil, but I don't have the cash right now due to building a new house. When I get settled in 6 to 9 months, I'll begin in earnest provided a great deal didn't fall on me out of the sky. lol As for the heat, I was well above non-magnetic. I gauged the color as best I could and my son verified that it was very bright yellow orange. My new forge is Hot! And don't worry too much about my body, I have been diagnosed with Psoriatic Arthritis for over 10 years and know my limits well. In addition, I'm working out a few days a week and coaching a tackle football team 2 days a week. I'll post some pics this weekend if I get a change to pull everything out and get it fired up.

I started working one piece and after 5 heats, it was still about 1/4" thick and only 3/4" wide using about 4" of the length. My ASO is a 55lb free HF special. I have it mounted to a wrought iron stand that easily weighs more than the anvil. The rebound is crap even mounted to the stout 1/2" thick wrought iron stand, maybe 2 or 3" out of 10". I made sure to get the metal to non-magnetic before forging. Even then, the going was rough with my 2.5# hammer. I quit soon after because my shoulder was on fire. Arthritis makes me listen to my body or I have a steep price to pay for days after.

it was only 70 here in the desert today....brrrrrr

Nice looking axe!

I was reading about forge lining. Would you recommend Plistex or Kast-o-lite to coat the fire bricks?

I finally got my stuff together and built the forge. Here is my parts list and estimated time: Research - 800 hours (OK, maybe not 800, but at least 40) Shopping - 12 hours (Don't go to HomeDepot or Lowes in AZ, they don't have any small fittings. Ace Hardware for the win!) Fabrication - 7 hours (1 hour for the T-Burner and 6 for welding and grinding) 1- .035 mig tip 1- 1" coupling black 1- 3/4" nipple 8" black 1- 1x1x3/4 tee black 1- 1/8" brass coupling 1- 1/8 to 1/4" reducing bushing brass 1- 1/4" 90 ell brass 1- 1/4" nipple 4" brass 1- 1/4" coupling brass 1- 1/4" MIP to 3/8" flare brass 1- 1/4" ball valve brass 1- propane regulator with gauge and 6' hose (Amazon) 3- 3000 hard fire bricks for floor 6- 2600 soft fire bricks for walls and ceiling Plate and angles are remnants from local steel supplier bolts and wing nuts were laying around I followed the Frosty T-Burner build except I omitted the flare fittings in the middle as I didn't see a reason to run flare to MIP to flare and back to MIP for the mig tip. The tip was about 2/3 into the tee when I took the video. I shortened it by an 1/8" and plan to test it later this week. I'll post a video in a bit, it's on my phone and didn't want to type this on a phone screen... Here is the video. I was running 5psi and the 1/8" bar was hot, but didn't get hot enough to start burning to metal. I also added some 3" legs to get it off the platform. I'll have a steel cart and not osb on saw horses! 20210131_153007.mp4

Harbor Freight has one that states will measure -22°F ~ +2102°F for $60 US. I think I'll pick one up and see how it goes. Thanks guys. Now back to the forge building plans... Andrew

I am partially color blind, red/green. While at the forge, I can tell when a piece is dull red or white hot, but I couldn't tell between 2 pieces that were pulled out as a test tonight. Others could tell that one was definitely hotter than the other. So... for gauging temperature for heat treating, is there a cost effective IR thermometer or should I just go by magnetic testing? Thanks in advance, Andrew

Thanks JLP! I have 2 10" straight rods now. I'll practice on drawing them out as wide as I can and maintain 3/16-1/8". I have a new hammer on order and should be coming in soon. Andrew