jlpservicesinc Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 counter sink the holes with a 1" auger bit.. so the nuts have something to sit against.. then you can just use plain flat washers up in the hole and if desired could get 4 coupling nuts.. The stump if you were to ask me is just about the perfect size.. Not much extra anvil nor extra stump sticking out.. That to me is just about perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 I like the looks of the all thread idea. But I think I would just bend the stump end into a U shape, sharpen the end, and drive it into the stump to hold. You wouldn't need to tighten both ends anyway. Plus you loose the shin grabbers. Life is Good Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norrlander Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 Nothing fancy, just wanted to celebrate having finally got my anvil attached to something! A proper old piece of chain, complete with shackle which we dug out of the forest last autumn turned out to be exactly long enough to wrap around twice. A couple of square plates and washers, two longish (could be longer) coach screws and two layers of roofing felt have turned a deafening 'TING!' into a much less bothersome 'clonk'. I won't dispense with ear protection but it might be nice to use something a bit more comfortable than my chainsaw helmet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 That is fantastic.. The Swedish pattern anvil is my favorite.. What are the measurements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 I agree the Swedish pattern anvil is beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Well done Norrlander, damping a cast Swedish steel anvil down to a clonk is outstanding! She's beautiful, I'd love a chance to work one like her. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norrlander Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Jlp : she weighs in at 41.5 kg and measures 67mm wide and 61cm tip to tip. There's also a stamp "1912", but I don't know if that's when the anvil was made, or the original pattern design or the company (Söderfors) start date. Any ideas? Frosty : thanks! After your warning I looked around a lot for ideas and this was the result. We'll see how long it lasts, but with only two screws it's not much bother to make adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Wonderful thanks for the info.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hheneg Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Sweet looking anvil.. Stand looks plenty stable.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatLiner Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Roughly 400 lb black granite block under my post anvil makes the whole thing over 500 lbs. It's bolted together using 1/2" concrete anchors drilled into the stone. I did it this way so I could separate the anvil from it's base because otherwise its a beast to move. This deadened the ring and the anvil feels more solid and lively. This is my go to anvil when I am using a striker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornguy Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Here’s my anvil base for a 200kg Soding Halbach anvil. This one is as quiet as a mouse now, since I added a dense rubber Matt under anvil and strapped it down tight with the chains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 That’s one big mouse. Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornguy Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 More if a rat really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lary Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 I had this fabricated anvil on a wooden stand i made from 4x4's for quite a while. Always had to fiddle with it to keep it from rocking. This 3 leg stand I just finished feels so much more solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 Upgraded to a steel stand from a wooden block. I still have to add some tool holders to it, but I want to use it first. I used JLP's anvil mounting system which works extremely well! Thank you for the idea. The stand weighs about 180#. Hopefully I won't be chasing my 150# anvil around like I was with my wooden stand. I thought about filling the legs with sand, but I think that might be unnecessary. We will see. Everything is bolted together in case I decide to change things in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Very nice Frazer! What size and thickness square tubing did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 4"x4"x3/8" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Frazer.. That is a great, heavy stand.. Very nice.. Some serious forge work on those links too.. Job well done. I ended up simplifying the design a lot on regular based anvils and it speeded up the process but is not nearly as intriguing as what you did.. I love it.. the story is spectacular. On the anvils with the upsetting blocks the tie rod can't go over the block.. This design really sped up the process though. Looking forwards to feed back on how you think about the Wood vs steel stand in use. Will you put the moving shelves on it too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHC Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 My new Holland settled on some 4X6 pieces, buried about 13.5” into sand and crushed concrete, tamped down nice and solid. I need a slightly bigger stand width wise. I’m thinking of pouring a concrete stand, that’s a skill set I have in spades and the tools/materials to do it. Any thoughts on a concrete stand? I’m not worried about portability, and I can make minor adjustments to height the same way I have with this one, adding or removing a little sand and crushed concrete in my work area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Over the years I have read different accounts of stone stands. I can't say personally if I am for or against. I do know that with concrete, rebar, welding, and a little bit of thought there can be so many extra items included in a very solid compressive strength materials. If your not worried about moving it, I'd make it much longer 3 or 4ft buried in the ground with a footing. I'd include items like the black widow stand with receivers, both in 2"id down to 1" I'd. That way things can be put anywhere. Be looking forwards to what you come up with.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHC Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 I was kinda leaning towards an 18-20” deep footing, 3-4’ square with a column of the proper width coming up from the center, poured in one piece. I’ve done similar bases for fountains and other projects. A single straight column going down 3-4’ would be so much easier and wouldn’t leave a lip I’d have to keep buried to prevent tripping on. If I were to go through the trouble there would definitely be more than just a big stick of concrete sticking out of the ground. I can easily add tool hangers on all sides. But I don’t know anything about a black widow, except I get a nasty headache when I get bitten by them. I did some looking and found some pics in this thread but I’m not sure I understand what exactly would make it more desirable than something else. Can you direct me to some more relevant information or explain anything about it to me? I can stick pieces of metal together but I don’t consider myself a welder by any stretch of the word. I do have one living in my house though, my oldest son went to trade school for it and he enjoys earning his keep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Black widow has to do with the X pattern on the bottom of the stand. It has 2" receiver tubes to install different items.. Foot hammers, vises, brackets, tool holders.. etc, etc.. only limited by your imagination. I like a stand that is straight on the sides exactly at the same footprint as the anvil base/feet.. I make the stands tapered when they are not in the ground fully supported because I'm rough on anvils and stands.. I often work on the sides of the anvil and heavy on horn and heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 On 1/1/2022 at 7:52 AM, jlpservicesinc said: not nearly as intriguing This is why I wanted to do it the way I did, call it a skills test On 1/1/2022 at 7:52 AM, jlpservicesinc said: Looking forwards to feed back on how you think about the Wood vs steel stand in use. I have a Soderfors with 85-90% rebound and I can honestly say (based on 2 days of use) the steel stand is not only more lively, it's also quieter than the wooden block. I took the chain off the waist and the magnets off the anvil and it's still quieter than before. I'm guessing it's just held down much better. So far I love it. I did add another piece of 1.25x0.5" flat stock between the 2 legs facing the camera in the last picture (and the opposing two legs facing away from the camera). I also put another piece of 5mm soft plywood under the feet to protect the concrete floor a bit. On 1/1/2022 at 7:52 AM, jlpservicesinc said: Will you put the moving shelves on it too? You becha. Part of that's done, more to come.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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