FlatLiner

That is awsome. I remember when we were working on your first anvil at the farm.

Here is my 260+ lb post anvil made from two 2 in x 8 in fork lift tines welded back to back. I perimiter welded them with 7018 welding rod. The root pass penetrated about 1/2 inch then I ran cap welds. It rings like a bell and so far after a few years of use it hasnt shown signs of coming apart.

Thank you all for the kind words and reviews.

Awesome job, I am jealous you have access to the blacksmith shop at the farm. You should have sent me a message I might have been able to come over and helped you out.

16 Layer twist damascus made from 1095 and 15N20. The handle is made from padauk. It is 11 3/4 in long and weighs in at 7.73 oz.

Beautiful work as usual. I can't wait for your new book to come out.

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Hay unos de nosotros aqui que hablamos Castillano/Español. Bienvienido a este foro de herreria.

I have thought of doing that same "upgrade" Laynne. Let us know long term how it holds up

His hammer does look huge. He handles it like it weighs nothing. It is impressive seeing how easily he took that first round bar to a point. I am betting that first bar was one inch diameter.

Holy hammer batman. In my two decades plus experience as a stone mason using different hammer styles and weights I would have cut that handle off halfway since it is only being usied choked up by the head. But that is my experience and me only seeing a video.

Interesting take on a treadle hammer. https://youtu.be/BL9vCX74LDA?si=Z3d1lvqt24auZkTk

Great video and explanation on a shop built diy anvil. https://youtu.be/gUVsLMc5Njs?si=pHobb9QRMeAejm5U

I think FIF has been good to resuscitate a dying skill. Yes you might see people who may not be the best in the trade but at least they are there willing to put their work out there for everyone to forever critique and criticize. I find it fascinating that there are a lot of "experts" who are willing to critique and criticize the contestants but in the same breath refuse to attempt to go on the show. Maybe it's because it's not worth their time, maybe they didn't even get through the application process, maybe it's a little bit outside their boat house, maybe they don't like being in front of cameras, and maybe it's because they aren't willing to put their work on the line to forever be critiqued and criticized. Maybe before we bag on the FIF contestants we should do a lot of introspection on how, when, where, why, and who we have tried to spread, teach, and pass on our knowledge of proper blacksmithing or bladesmithing techniques and principles.

Break your cable down into smaller strands while you are learning how to forge weld cable. That is what I did. I didn't use a v swage, I used the step between the cut plate and face to forge weld the cable. I only work it at a forge weld temperature until I know it it completely welded. It will go from soft and squishy to solid like any other round stock when it is welded. The thicker the cable the longer you want it to soak in the forge at forge weld heat to make sure it is at forge weld temperatures completely throughout the cable. Like others have said, weld the ends, heat the cable, untwist the cable to get flux all throughout the cable, retwist, reheat to forgeweld temperature and twist as tight as you can, reheat to forge weld temperature and continue to twist until you can't twist, reheat to forge weld temperature and start to forgeweld it by rotating it in the v swage the direction of the cable twist as you tap it lightly and quickly, reheat to forge weld temperature and continue the rotating and quick hits, eventually you will feel the cable going from soft and squishy to solid, the more solit it is the harder you can hit it. Work it at forge weld temperature until you are certain it is completely welded up. Rarely will you get it right in the first try.