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Found 14 results

  1. Hi Guys, I have just been blessed with about thirty old school punches, hand fullers and chisels. After a week in a vinegar bath they are ready to go. Unfortunately i really do not have a good logical place (at the moment to store these so that i can use them without digging through a bucket or opening up 4 drawers to find what i am looking for. Anyone have a solution that works for them? Visual aids would be most welcomed. -c
  2. I am making a sheering die for my toggle press to knock out simple squares. This particular die will cut 1" and 5/8" squares. I'm using a piece of leaf spring 3" wide and 3/8" thick. I've not had it tested yet, but my guess is that it's plain carbon between 80 and 90 points. I've used springs before for sheering dies similar to this, but I have to say I prefer 5160, which is typically used in the thicker springs--1" and up. Since this is going to be a hot operation, the alloy is not as critical as it would be for cold. As we all know, the difference in hardness is more from heat than anything else; and in my experience, the biggest enemy is abrasion from the scale, not distortion from power. Spring works for that. It's easy to machine and it's free, both of which let me feel more willing to experiment than with a 50 dollar slab of D2 that's a tool chewer. The first thing is to lay out the holes in their approximate location. Nothing really precise about this other than the corner marks to hold it to the bridge. Then it's drilled. The spring was a tad wide to fit into the die holder, so I ground the edge. Then I put it in its die holder and mounted that in the Garvin die slotter to rough cut the hole square. For anyone who doesn't know what a die slotter is, it's like a shaper, only vertical. The Garvin's ram can be tilted too, to get the relief for the die. It uses a single point tool like a lathe's. It has a rotary table and X Y Z. One corner's cut at a time; it's rotated 90º and then the next is cut, until they're all done. It's pretty rough inside yet, so I take it to the die filer. This also has a table which tilts for relief. It took about twenty minutes to smooth it. Next is to make the punch, but that will be another day. That's when it'll get its final sizing and fit. For now, it's only approximate. Finally, it will be heat treated and surface ground, top and bottom. I hope you enjoyed this. Comments and questions are welcome. Joel
  3. Got a few things here I'm unsure of their use. Utility knife is for size reference. Tongs aren't too old I don't believe. I have a bunch of the + shapes chisels (?) and I have four of the old cone shaped iron pieces...hardy? The post is cylindrical so I wasn't sure if it was a hardy or not.
  4. I have thought for a long time that you should hit a punch with your flat die of your hammer, but recently, I have seen some people turn to their round die for punching. Is their a reason or recommendation for this?(only applies if you have a rounding hammer...)
  5. So I had seen wedge joints on fences in Virginia City Montana and actually took some apart while cutting a tree out of a ladies yard, I remember I was pretty wowed by it. So when I started smithing it had been on my mind. So I made my slitter, drift, fuller, and swedge and made a simple project to test the waters. Here is my result. I did make the wedge part of the "tail" cause it seemed like it could be so much more then a wedge. lol So here are all the tools I made and my project.
  6. I made this hammer eye chisel over the last couple of days. Its not perfect but it does punch a hole. I ground off all of the scale that's why its so shiny. Its made from one inch sucker rod.
  7. Hey Guys, just me showing one possibility to make a hammer eye punch. I used C60 tool steel in 20mm round stock: Here are the different steps: 1. forge the round bar to an octagonal shape 2. create a teardrop shape about 1 inch below the top 3. create a light taper that starts of at the end of the teardrop and gets thicker for about 2 - 3 inches 4. then cut off additional 4 inches and create a light taper that gets thinner to the tip 5. taper about 1 - 2 inches at the tip thinner than the rest 6. planish and make everything nice and straight 7. dress the striking face 8. dress the surface of the rest of the tool and remove remaining sharp corners (optional) 9. heat up the whole tool above the transition point and let cool down slow (eg. in sand or on coals) to anneal it 10. grind the tip 11. heat up about 1 inch of the tip to cherry red colour and quench it in water or in oil to harden it (optional) ATTENTION: NEVER harden the striking face!!! 12. temper the hardened portion and a bit above to sky blue colour 13. clean it and touch up the edge 14. look out for cracks, test whether it is shatter proof 15. have fun with it :). Here is the one I made in the video: Well I hope this was helpfull. Yours - Daniel
  8. Hey guys! Thought I may post this here, this is an informational video about how to forge punches efficiently! :) Hope you all enjoy! Any suggestions for future videos? Many thanks!!!
  9. Hey all, quick question regarding punching holes in thin stock, I will need to use a slot punch, but I don't think the mechanics are exclusive to that vs say a round punch. iv drawn up a small demo project that involves spreading a bar quite thinly to mimic a scallop shell, and then slot punching through the thin part and pushing one side of the slot down and pulling the other side of the slot up to make it a bottle opener. however, I think I am going to run into difficulty actually punching the slot. the material will more than likely be between 1/8" and 1/16" thick at the time of punching, my slot punch is an Aspery style 1/8x7/8(plus or minus). I will not have the opportunity to prototype it beforehand so I need to consult the experts :) am I going to need to modify the process in some way to get it to work? im thinking the thin stock will cool very quickly and I wont have much working time, but also because it is so thin I don't know if I will be able to get a well defined hole to counter punch and have enough differential in material thickness for the plug to be sheared out. thoughts? should I just hot cut a slot instead, drift it open a ways, and then file off the rag? or punch from one side as much as I can to define the hole perimeter and chisel cut the slug out from the same side? Many thanks.
  10. Hey Guys, on friday I forged a Brian Brazeal hammer eye punch top tool.The first one I ever forged under just my own supervision. With Henrick Stark as my striker. Stock material was L6 thermodurable tool steel (56NiCrMoV7) in 1" round. I hope you enjoy the video =) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=nCETra-GCMU Btw not all steps are shown entirely! Yours - Daniel
  11. Well on Friday I said to myself that I will finish the two pairs of tongs I started and voila! I have done it. The first pair are as ugly as sin but are surprisingly very useful. The second pair are by far much better and look great as well. Here are some pics of them as well as some of my other tools I have amassed. These are all my forge tools I have so far. From right: 1kg machinists hammer, 1 water scoop, 1 punch, 1 cutter, 1 First pair of tongs, top - Second pair of tongs, Bottom - Fire poker. Detail of the scroll work on the end of the poker. The water scoop. My first pair of tongs made from 10mm steel bar, head and neck forged, handles drawn out near head and widening to the back, this balances them very well. The two parts were riveted together by myself. Detail of the head. As you can see the one lip is longer than the other, this makes it an excelent tool to use when doing rivet work as the longer head can be placed over the rivet and is used to hold it in place while you shape the other side of the rivet.I have not included a picture but the lips have a groove down the center so as to be able to grip onto the piece being worked on. My pride and joy at this moment. The second pair of tongs I have made. The heads were forged from 16mm bar and then the neck was drawn out to only 1cm, I then cut them off of the original stock riveted them together and then welded the handles on afterwards. Size comparison. This one also has the groove in the center so as to be able to grip better. Detail of the head. Here you can also see the top lip is slightly longer, this is so that I can scoop the piece I am trying to grab rather than chase it around the fire pot. You can see the welds that I made as well. Thank you all for reading my posts I appreciate it very much. Fell free to drop any comments I look forward to them.
  12. Hey fellows, after I published my guide on how to forge a rams head wall hook some people asked me how to make the punch for the eyes of the rams head. Due to the fact that there isn´t any video covering this very type of punch yet, I decided to make one on my own. I hope it can give you an idea how you would forge one on yourself. Please bare with me, it was -10°C and gloves where an absolute necessity in order to be able to forge anyway. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCkMiVZR8Pw&feature=youtu.be Here a little written description: 1st heat: forge a square taper 2nd heat: dress up the taper 3rd heat: dress up the tip of the punch 4th heat: punch a dent into the tip of the punch using a ball punch 5th heat: take off two opposing corners of the tip, if you want the eye ball to be round, only use a file, if you want it elliptical first upset it horizontally with the hammer and then dress it up with a file 6th heat: cut it off at desired length 7th heat: make the strike end of the punch octagonal and forge a teardrop shape about 1" below the striking face, dress the striking face 8th heat: anneal the whole punch 9th heat: harden the tip of the punch at cherry red color and then use the spare heat to temper it to sky blue color last step: test if it is shatterproof and test the punch on a piece of steel. I hope you enjoyed the video and learned something new! Your - Daniel
  13. Made one and attached it.Made a quick, dirty knife to try it on. Took most of a day for a first try, wondering what sort of tools you can use and easily make to do the whole instead of cutting in from the side. Really like how much more solid it appears to be.
  14. Made some punches and a chisel over the last few days. It takes me a while to get things done. If I last 2 hours in the shop I've had a long day. It didn't used to be that way, but I'm gonna do stuff anyways. Bad knees and all. Anyway. I made several punches and a chisel from some spring I was given by Phil Krankowski . I was very happy to recieve it and he totally gets the credit for me having it. Another spring I was able to get was from Jake P. I made a bob punch from it but I'm not done with it yet. Also the chisel is from that same larger spring. I heat treated them today and took pics. I tried my best to run the colors on them but I'm not so sure I did a very good job. I brought them up to non magnetic, quenched in water and then scrubbed them with some sandpaper watched the colors run and when they hit a light straw I finished the quench. So, I don't know if thats right or not but I did a test with them and they all held up just fine. Made the marks on a piece of mild plate. Hope you enjoy.
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