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Found 14 results

  1. Hi Guys, I have just been blessed with about thirty old school punches, hand fullers and chisels. After a week in a vinegar bath they are ready to go. Unfortunately i really do not have a good logical place (at the moment to store these so that i can use them without digging through a bucket or opening up 4 drawers to find what i am looking for. Anyone have a solution that works for them? Visual aids would be most welcomed. -c
  2. I am making a sheering die for my toggle press to knock out simple squares. This particular die will cut 1" and 5/8" squares. I'm using a piece of leaf spring 3" wide and 3/8" thick. I've not had it tested yet, but my guess is that it's plain carbon between 80 and 90 points. I've used springs before for sheering dies similar to this, but I have to say I prefer 5160, which is typically used in the thicker springs--1" and up. Since this is going to be a hot operation, the alloy is not as critical as it would be for cold. As we all know, the difference in hardness is more from heat than any
  3. Got a few things here I'm unsure of their use. Utility knife is for size reference. Tongs aren't too old I don't believe. I have a bunch of the + shapes chisels (?) and I have four of the old cone shaped iron pieces...hardy? The post is cylindrical so I wasn't sure if it was a hardy or not.
  4. I have thought for a long time that you should hit a punch with your flat die of your hammer, but recently, I have seen some people turn to their round die for punching. Is their a reason or recommendation for this?(only applies if you have a rounding hammer...)
  5. So I had seen wedge joints on fences in Virginia City Montana and actually took some apart while cutting a tree out of a ladies yard, I remember I was pretty wowed by it. So when I started smithing it had been on my mind. So I made my slitter, drift, fuller, and swedge and made a simple project to test the waters. Here is my result. I did make the wedge part of the "tail" cause it seemed like it could be so much more then a wedge. lol So here are all the tools I made and my project.
  6. I made this hammer eye chisel over the last couple of days. Its not perfect but it does punch a hole. I ground off all of the scale that's why its so shiny. Its made from one inch sucker rod.
  7. Hey Guys, just me showing one possibility to make a hammer eye punch. I used C60 tool steel in 20mm round stock: Here are the different steps: 1. forge the round bar to an octagonal shape 2. create a teardrop shape about 1 inch below the top 3. create a light taper that starts of at the end of the teardrop and gets thicker for about 2 - 3 inches 4. then cut off additional 4 inches and create a light taper that gets thinner to the tip 5. taper about 1 - 2 inches at the tip thinner than the rest 6. planish and make everything nice and straight 7. dress the striking face 8
  8. Hey guys! Thought I may post this here, this is an informational video about how to forge punches efficiently! :) Hope you all enjoy! Any suggestions for future videos? Many thanks!!!
  9. Hey all, quick question regarding punching holes in thin stock, I will need to use a slot punch, but I don't think the mechanics are exclusive to that vs say a round punch. iv drawn up a small demo project that involves spreading a bar quite thinly to mimic a scallop shell, and then slot punching through the thin part and pushing one side of the slot down and pulling the other side of the slot up to make it a bottle opener. however, I think I am going to run into difficulty actually punching the slot. the material will more than likely be between 1/8" and 1/16" thick at the time of p
  10. Hey Guys, on friday I forged a Brian Brazeal hammer eye punch top tool.The first one I ever forged under just my own supervision. With Henrick Stark as my striker. Stock material was L6 thermodurable tool steel (56NiCrMoV7) in 1" round. I hope you enjoy the video =) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=nCETra-GCMU Btw not all steps are shown entirely! Yours - Daniel
  11. Well on Friday I said to myself that I will finish the two pairs of tongs I started and voila! I have done it. The first pair are as ugly as sin but are surprisingly very useful. The second pair are by far much better and look great as well. Here are some pics of them as well as some of my other tools I have amassed. These are all my forge tools I have so far. From right: 1kg machinists hammer, 1 water scoop, 1 punch, 1 cutter, 1 First pair of tongs, top - Second pair of tongs, Bottom - Fire poker. Detail of the scroll work on the end of the poker. The water scoop. My first pa
  12. Hey fellows, after I published my guide on how to forge a rams head wall hook some people asked me how to make the punch for the eyes of the rams head. Due to the fact that there isn´t any video covering this very type of punch yet, I decided to make one on my own. I hope it can give you an idea how you would forge one on yourself. Please bare with me, it was -10°C and gloves where an absolute necessity in order to be able to forge anyway. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCkMiVZR8Pw&feature=youtu.be Here a little written description: 1st heat: forge a square taper
  13. Made one and attached it.Made a quick, dirty knife to try it on. Took most of a day for a first try, wondering what sort of tools you can use and easily make to do the whole instead of cutting in from the side. Really like how much more solid it appears to be.
  14. Made some punches and a chisel over the last few days. It takes me a while to get things done. If I last 2 hours in the shop I've had a long day. It didn't used to be that way, but I'm gonna do stuff anyways. Bad knees and all. Anyway. I made several punches and a chisel from some spring I was given by Phil Krankowski . I was very happy to recieve it and he totally gets the credit for me having it. Another spring I was able to get was from Jake P. I made a bob punch from it but I'm not done with it yet. Also the chisel is from that same larger spring. I heat treated them today and t
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