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I Forge Iron

Rich Hale

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  1. Mr. Hale, I have some pure 3/4 " round nickel rods that I wish to forge flat and incorporate into with a powdered steel for a pattern in a mosaic damascus billet.  No, I have never done powdered damascus, but I have done many damascus billets and knives.  Should I forge the bars hot (how hot) and can I do it with my tire hammer?


  2. In the knfemaking lessons there is a place for any of us to list suppliers,...Did you add that to the list?
  3. i second the get into the shop note above..it is soo easy just to type a question in here..but shop time solves questions and the answers stick with youi.
  4. Not sure about where you are but some shipping pallets here are made ofhardwood ,, a used pallet would have a lot of wood in it...if you can find one......Used furniture stores may have some things you could break down for wood..Dressers,,chairs anything..and if they are broken the price may be better....
  5. My posts were in responce to the original question.
  6. After heat treat did you do all the normal shop tests to make sure it was hard?,,,and then after you tempered did you again test? And how did you know the blade was at the correct heat to quench? All the answers are here in the heat treat stickiews and knfe making lessons. If you google specifications for 1084 steel you will find what the maker suggests for quenchant...and for any other steel by number also in different searches.
  7. I opened a catalog for a place listed in the knifemaking section under supplers and they list ivory.
  8. I have and use one of those belt attachments..it is not suited at all for making blades..first the contact wheel needs to be larger..second you need more power..third it runs at too fast a belt speed. And lastly 2" x 72" is the most popular size for knife making for a reason..Most suppliers of belts have a large nuimber of types of belts in many forms and grit sizes..those small length belts wear out faster and you will be limited in what type and quality of belts you have....Read close anything Wayne Coe suggest.
  9. D 2 is not a stainless.
  10. The warp is most likely due to stress in the blade prior to hardening...It can also be saused by sticking the blade in the quench so one side hits quenchant more than other side. In the knife making lessons and heat treat stickies there is info on normalizing,,
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