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Found 8 results

  1. I have a very large hammer that was used to punch pretty big holes. I’m not really sure exactly what kind of hammer it is actually. It is kind of in bad shape and I would like to grind it down into a hammer eye punch because I plan on forging or buying a drift soon. Does anyone have any kind of objection to grinding this one down and if so why?
  2. Hello all, I was fortunate enough to come into possession of a few 10" pieces of S-7 steel. I would like to make a drift, but would need to upset the round stock in the middle. From what I've read, you should air cool S-7 and avoid working the hammering end. I have a gas forge and can't fully isolate the middle section from getting heated. Can I still cool the ends with water before I upset? Would that make the end product too brittle? Thanks for any/all advice.
  3. So......I suggested "wall art" in the, what can I make page. 14 hours later this is what it got. I am calling it "Remnant" Because it was forges out of failed pieces and left over drops. We all have that pile of short steel that we hold on to because one time 9 years ago we needed a 3" piece and had to cut into a fresh 20' stick.....so now we don't throw anything over 2" away........but we never really use much of it.....well my hoard was growing and starting to attack my shop space with ill intent. I drew this project up about 3 years ago......and it was time to get it done. I wanted to have the assumption of a frame without the frame. I wanted tenons, drifted holes, dog boned flat bar, curves, upset corners, twists, hard and soft lines and lastly........some obnoxious riot gate rivets. this piece is about 21" across by 38' tall, weight is about 35lbs. The 3 frame pieces are 3/16" x 1 1/2" I upset the sides down the length of the stock down to 1" left about 1 1/2" untouched at each end, this gives the steel the appearance of being fullered with wide grove. I had some twist experiments so I forged a foot to mount them and riveted them on. I then forge chunks of 1/2"-3/4" square, 1"-2" x 3/16"/ 1/4" flat bar and a round bar scrap. At any rate several hours of forging later I have all my parts done and bolted the entire piece together and made some adjustments. Because of the theme of this piece and the fact that I wanted a dark steel piece I only wire brushed the pieces by hand while they were hot. I don't want any burnished silver metal on the piece. Here is my sketch which i altered a lot.......its art, and its mine.....so I can do whatever I want. lol. Anyway moving on. Here I have forged several pieces and decided on a rivet that i really like. Its in the top right corner.......I ended up making 11 of them but one had to be cut down. At this point a lot of thought and planning starts to slow down progress, each piece now is associating with not just 1 other piece but 2,3 and even 4 other pieces. Everything must work together. I use bolts to fasten the pieces tightly together so I can make small adjustments as I forge new pieces. this makes assembly must faster and I have less alignment issues. Due to the nature of the pieces I had to get creative with my ability to drill nice, centered, and useful holes. lol. I always wondered what that slot on the vise was for. At this point all the pieces are forged and bolted together. I really had to pay attention now so I could rivet and peen my tenons in the right order. With so many over lapping junctions and pieces if not assembled in the right order some of the fastening points would be unreachable. During assembly one of my tenons snapped of.......ah crap......I simply plug welded it the welded the tenon over the lug weld and peened it over like a normal tenon.......lol.....if I had not said anything you'd never notice...even if your got really close. But I learned a new trick........you "purest".... just relax its not the end of the world. lol Here is the completed piece. I used a torch to spot heat sections and make adjustments to bring everything back into alignment. It was a fun project and I learned a lot from it. If i do anything like this again it will be better and easier. I got to use 11 big, obnoxious, gody, rivets!!!! That really is the point of these monthly "what can i make" it to get you in the smithy forging. If your forging, your learning. Push yourself outside your comfort zone and see what happens.....there are no , knowledge being gained and that is what allows us to say......."I forge Iron" have a good time and make some wall art!!!!!!
  4. Finished this one a few weeks ago. Forged from 1x2x3 mild with a leaf spring bit. Found fractures from the spring, I think, once I was doing some final grinding. I worked the bit nice and hot, so I'm thinking it was from previous fractures. Came out right at a pound and a half and stuck it on a cheap Link handle from Rural King. Can't wait to make more like this, my Brent Bailey axe drift is my new favorite tool! Next time, i'll make sure I set my bit further back so I don't have that nasty line where the bit meets the mild steel. All welds are solid. it's a little dirty here, I had already gave it a few test runs.
  5. I picked up some large Ball Peen Hammers, I've found lots of info already on forging them into Tomahawks... Question: My Ball Peens seem to have a variety of hole diameters for the handle, all of which seem small for a Hawk. Do most people use a drift to enlarge the original hole for a hawk? Thanks...
  6. So i have an idea to turn an old hammer into a bowl or gutter adze for some woodcarving, and i feel confident in undertaking that task, but i have a question on making a drift to keep the eye from gettin squashed or warped while i hammer it probably pretty close to it. Can i taper the peice i want to use for the drift til it starts to fit through then heat it again and drive it through the hammers eye to get the shape i want to keep.
  7. So I had seen wedge joints on fences in Virginia City Montana and actually took some apart while cutting a tree out of a ladies yard, I remember I was pretty wowed by it. So when I started smithing it had been on my mind. So I made my slitter, drift, fuller, and swedge and made a simple project to test the waters. Here is my result. I did make the wedge part of the "tail" cause it seemed like it could be so much more then a wedge. lol So here are all the tools I made and my project.
  8. I had an idea recently that one could split and drift a square (diamond?) shaped hole with the same tool. But the geometry of such a tool has thrown me for a loop. I'm sure it's rather simple concept to some but I've struggled any advice would be appreciated. Has anyone seen/made/used such a tool? (pictures would be great!) Is there a specific name for such a tool? (Or is it just a chisel when cutting and a drift when drifting?) I'm sure the usefulness of such a tool is highly debatable but I've set out to make one anyways if only as an exorcise. I've had limited success so far and I don't think a lengthy post is desired here, but I've detailed my experiences in my two most recent blog entrees if anyone would like more insight into my questions. PS: this is more of a general blacksmithing question but I don't think it warrants a second topic.. As I understand it the length of the slot to be cut is 2a - 5% ('a' being the width of one of the four sides of the the hole to be punched). In Mr Hofi's blueprint his chisel cut a rectangular hole, less of a 'split'. I'm led to believe I may need to account for the thickness of the chisel as well. Does anyone use any other formula? When I was first approaching this problem I assumed the diagonals of the square would be used to calculate.