Alan Evans

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About Alan Evans

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    http://www.alanrobertevans.co.uk

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    Stroud, Gloucestershire, UK

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  1. All my fans are in boxes to hush them up a bit. The big one has a 1hp motor and a 24" fan (at a guess) and is quieter than the cooling fan on the MIG welder...mind you that is an old 500 amp beast. I replaced the brushes on the little fan a couple of weeks ago and took some photos of the box with its internal baffle/flue...may be useful for someone... Alan
  2. The resentment I feel with presbyopia and varifocal lenses is childish I know...so many people have not had the benefit of 20/20 through the rest of their life. When I finally acknowledged that my eyesight had deteriorated and that reading glasses and non prescription bifocal safety glasses were no longer adequate I went to the optician and ordered a couple of pairs of large aviator style safety varifocal safety glasses. My idea of the big lenses, apart from maximum protected area, was to enable them to be mainly clear with the graded magnification starting below the centre point. So at the anvil I would be looking through clear glass. It didn't turn out that way. When I put them on in the shop the optician said it will take a bit of time to get used to them. I thought, what does he know? They look fine. Thought I would leave them on, said thank you and goodbye, and as I went to open the door missed the door handle! Lesson one! Then I got back to the forge I thought I would have a bit of a tidy up. There was a a 600mm offcut lying on the bench so I picked it up noticed it had a curve. I tapped it to straighten it using the correct position on the anvil and the right weight of blow based on 30 odd years of familiarity...and got a shock that it was now bizarrely over-bent. Then looked along it, and discovered it had been straight until I tapped it...some head scratching later I discovered that the glasses distorted horizontal lines...into a frown if they were above eye level and into a smile if they were below. Tilting my head up and down made them cycle! Lesson two! Straightening long bars in the press with natural eyesight was so easy, by being able to look along the full length of 3 or 4 metres...I have to consciously alter my head angle now to focus at the different distances using a good light and it is just not as efficient or accurate...hey ho. Getting older with bits wearing out is a pain. But it sure beats the alternative as they say! Alan ps these sort of thing might help some people on a short term basis...while waiting for your prescription ones...cheap enough and being 3M should be available most places. http://www.axminster.co.uk/3m-bx-readers-bifocal-safety-spectacles-ax866756
  3. Plaster of Paris and tallow is what I was told to mix in with the pitch. I am sure that the metal won't mind what you use! Apart from the balance between flexiblility and support the only other consideration is the release from the metal surface when resetting. Alan
  4. I was just looking up a tool shop catalogue for some Carver Clamps for another thread and found this...Reminded me of Frosty's suggestion....Presumably a clip on lead to the tractor battery would be possible... Alan http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-thermocut-12-e-hot-wire-cutting-device-12v-dc-211076
  5. It is a good investment, you will not regret. But I choose my words carefully...investment equals serious money! I have 6 of the slightly longer reach ones than Iron Dwarf posted and couple of the big boys with a straight bar to use for spreading. Alan The Carver Standard-Duty Long Reach Rack Clamps have many uses. The most common include welding, metal fabrication, moulding box and die holding, plate fabrication, plastic and fibreglass moulding and maintenance work. The Carver T321-250 Standard-Duty Long Reach Rack Clamp has the following specifications: Capacity: 250mm (10in). Reach: 120mm (4.3/4in). Overall Length: 360mm (14.1/8in). Clamping Force: 5,650N. Weight: 2.0kg. The standard reach ones like Iron Dwarf's have double the clamping force:- The Carver T186-300 Standard-Duty Rack Clamp has the following specifications: Capacity: 150mm or 294mm Reach: 60mm Overall Length: 245mm or 395mm Clamping Force: 11,300N
  6. Not the table no...they are the orange two piece clamps with the shrouded screw and the notched coarse adjustment. Alan
  7. Don't they just. I celebrated my 40th birthday at the ABANA conference in Saint Luis Obispo. Lesley came over with me and she attended an early morning session on backs. The tutor/speaker mentioned that our backs are good to survive mistreatment for 40 years or so then they complain. A month after we got back my back went! But 25 years of (occasional and ill-disciplined) exercise have kept me upright and working ever since. Alan
  8. I tend to use Vise-grips for light stuff, G cramps (C clamps to you!) just for wood work but I invested in a few Carver clamps for serious metal work. Most fabricators use them over here, are they available on your side of the Atlantic? I suggested the straightening beads in case the OP did not have Oxy-Acetylene to hand...but its true...more fun playing with fire! Alan
  9. I am bitterly sorrel to hear that... Alan
  10. jeremy k and bubba682 refer to heat straightening...I know the process as "heat triangles" so that may give another line of research / help with googling. Very effective process, I have bent and straightened Channels, RSJs and Universal Columns in both planes with it. The slight disadvantage in this instance is that it puts even more tension onto the weld area. But it is a quite normal procedure. A couple of similar sized weld beads on the back of the TEE bar (immediately opposite / in alignment with / and parallel to the tee fillets) can do the same job and be almost invisible if you grind a Vee first. If this is just for a base frame and is going to have castors why worry about the distortion anyway? It will be strongest left as laid and should not worry the castors. If it was sitting on direct on the ground a plate welded on as a toe at either end would prevent it rocking on the centre... Alan
  11. Sorry to hear about your back...is it disc, facet joint or muscle? When I was on my back with a popped disc which damaged the sciatic nerve I found four things that helped... Diclofenac-retard slow release anti inflammatory...ibu-profen wouldn't touch it.A marvellous Physiotherapist who manipulated my back a bit, but crucially showed me how it all worked mechanically and gave me the exercises I could do to get it better, regain and maintain my Lordosis and prevent it happening again. A back swing which is a table which holds you by the ankles and you cause it to swing backwards and can hang upside down Dracula style...I used to watch an evenings tv...you get used to the upside down picture rapidly! A book entitled "Treat Your Own Back" by a New Zealander Robin McKenzie ISBN: 978-0-9876504-0-5 Underlying each of the good things was exercise and movement...sitting around or lying in bed was not the best. I have been able to carry on working for the last 25 years since the disc damage even working heavier metal than before...I still have a slightly numb big toe and developed a strange gait but I have been almost entirely pain free. I have also heard from my Physiotherapist that Sarah Keys has some very good back advice...she is based in Oz and has a lot of youtube videos and informative websites. Basic rules I gleaned for backs... Sit tall, stand tall, don't slump. Working at the computer or over the bench or anvil, take a few seconds to straighten up and push you hips forward and arch your back the other way every now and then. A few wimps push ups leaving your tummy on the ground is an even better way to arch your back. Exercise to keep the spine flexible and supple...it spreads the load and the bend. Never exercise into pain or discomfort. Feet at shoulder width, heels on the ground, and bend your knees not your back when lifting. Prepare somewhere to put it down before you pick it up. Good luck. Hope some of that helps, Alan
  12. A concave blade with a ball point like a tripe knife cutting outwards? The "unzip" gralloching knife used by deer stalkers or the larger butchers' tripe knife cut from the inside out and avoid having to cut through the contents. Alan ps You can use the inside/outward cutting technique with any blade shape, but a concave one makes it easier to make a continuous cut and keep your hand clear of the packaging and contents...hay being so abrasive can skin your knuckles...I have used the technique with some success on Haylage bales...they only have had the multi layer plastic wrap rather than your net, and on other shrink-wrapped pallet loads. Alan
  13. I remember seeing an old film of rivet throwing...I seem to remember the rivet heated on the dockside going up the side of the ship on stages of scaffolding in three or four throws and bucket catches to the riveters...most impressive. Alan
  14. The full length handled image is from the Belfast Museum and is listed as a riveters' hammer. The caption was not included for some reason. Third try..... Alan This rivet hammer was used to knock red hot rivets into steel plates. Riveting was an important part of building the Titanic. Riveting squads in the Harland & Wolff shipyard were usually three men and one or two young boys aged 14 or older. A boy heated the rivets in a furnace to a temperature of around 650 degrees Celsius. Then a boy, called a ‘Heater’ or ‘Rivet Catcher’, would hold it in tongs and run or climb to where it was needed before it cooled off.
  15. Yes, mine is a steel drop forging, you can see the flashing shear on the sides. Alan