Alan Evans

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About Alan Evans

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    Stroud, Gloucestershire, UK

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  1. Have a look at this thread which may help. There are some pages from a pictorial book there which has some useful riveting information re countersunk / flush rivets. Alan
  2. I think we should just chuck it might awl go Pete Tong. Alan
  3. I avoided that one, it is too addictive....I hear you can really get the bit between your teeth. Alan
  4. Thank you for coming back…and I am sorry to hear about your mother. My mum is going to have her 93rd birthday on Wednesday, and I am fortunate that apart from shrinking on a daily basis, she is remarkably cheerful! I cannot pretend that I was not upset by your personal “boring” comment but after I looked back through my posts I did think it was unfounded and was able to shrug it off. I was not forcing anybody to read my musings. I think the discussion has been surprisingly on topic in fact, given how threads quite often stray on fora. Though admittedly my posts were perhaps slightly towards the abstruse spectrum. I was intrigued and did care, about the OP’s initial query though… With conflicting political commentary we know that it will always be biased by the left or right wing media. Depending on the source, we can make adjustments to get it nearer a truth which will likely be somewhere in the middle. With the rare occasions of conflicting technical information how do we know which book to trust? Just more sources (whether from Books, Experience, Colleagues, Internet fora) in order to acquire a consensus, I guess is the answer. Thank you again for your subsequent post, I feel a lot better. I will now go and get on with my other hobby of watching some paint dry! Alan
  5. Sorry to hear that. And a bit surprised. I thought we were just discussing the OP's theme of how do you know which book is correct. Maybe you missed the bit where I said I agree with you that it is the best we have got. Alan
  6. What he said...or...that's easy for you to say! That is a far more eloquent version of what I was trying to say in my "middle eight". Thank you. Alan
  7. No, just trying to make the same point. Healthy scepticism. We should not blindly accept something simply because it appears in print, however worthy the tome. From a position of ignorance how do we know what sources are correct? If the writers of the reference or textbook consulted the wrong practitioner or incorrectly recorded the researchers' or practitioners' experience, how can we know? Philosophically we know that in "physics" a model is constructed which fits the observed phenomena and that is taken as the hypothesis until evidence is found to the contrary, when a new model which takes account of the new evidence is devised to replace the previous one. All we can do is keep an open mind and build our individual world view from the information we acquire, and subsequently accept or reject. This thread is a case in point....if you follow the various bits of quenching and quenchant information arriving in sequence it is only after a fair bit of conjecture that a consensus was formed. If you stopped reading early on although the information was not incorrect it was certainly incomplete. Alan
  8. Who qualifies the qualifier? I suppose reference books should be more sought after and/or trusted in their second or third editions, when any errors have been corrected. Unlike literary tomes which attract a first edition premium. Alan
  9. Yes, either in the vice or with a snap clamp/Vise grip or Carver clamp resting the blocks on bench or anvil. Should add that the bench in question is a 40mm (1.5") thick plate weighing 1 tonne... so bounce is minimised. If you are really going for it...the larger rivets are done very rapidly under the power hammer. You can even use a press in a pinch (sorry) It needs very little to hold the two halves together, the riveting force is down not sideways. It is important to flat bottom drill the holes. I have the rivet blank inserted but not fully, then I heat the head plus a bit, the first push seats the rivet to full depth and leaves only hot metal exposed for upsetting. Alan
  10. Have you looked at his thread, there area number of split rivet makers illustrated. Alan
  11. I have a couple of buckets of the hard and soft foam disposable ear plugs, and a few various makes and types of passive ear muffs, these are to make sure that I have something that will suit every assistant or visitor....I have some electronic muffs for shooting, useful if at a range or with others so you can hear the RCO instruction, but when forging or shooting solo I prefer the better attenuation from the reusable ear plugs. I have some by 3M EAR Ultrafit UF-01-000SP these have an excellent SNR rating of 32dB I can't remember off hand whether the USA NRR up or down relative to the European will be NRR of over 30dB whatever. I wash the reusable ear plugs when I wash my hands, they clean up great with "Palms" hand cleaner. The disposable fabric dust masks are basically ineffectual against anything really nasty, and you cannot check that they are sealing against your face so forget them. They provide nothing but an illusion of protection. If you are using proper face masks with replaceable cartridges......make sure you ask for the pre-filters and housings that clip on in front of the cartridge. For some reason the salesmen never tell you about their availability. The cartridges are rendered unusable when paint spraying not because the filter media is exhausted but usually because the large paint globules have smothered the inlet surface. If you use pre-filters the cartridges themselves maintain their effectiveness for at least 5 or 6 pre filters and 4 or 5 times their un-pre-filtered life. I put on two pre-filters in front of each cartridge and throw away the outer one at the first sign of reduced air flow...moving the remaining one to the front with the new one against the cartridge. I have a couple of air fed face shields which are very good for paint spraying...again you can buy clear acetate disposable cover sheets which can be discarded and prolong the life of the visor indefinitely. I use double palm welding gauntlets for power hammer forging, but ambidextrous gloves are more economic for hand forging...I always just use a left hand glove and hold my hammer barehanded. You either need ambidextrous gloves or do a swap of the unused hammer hand gloves with an opposite handed smith! If you are using rotating not use leather or the fabric and leather rigger type gloves. Wear elasticated gloves which can be yanked off if caught in the machine without taking your hand in with it. Test to make sure the glove will come off by just pulling on one finger. Find some good toe-tector boots, preferably with nitrile rubber soles if you use a coke fire. Buy good quality comfortable safety glasses and wear them all day. Keep them on a string around your neck and never put them down on any surface in the workshop in order to keep them scratch free. All surfaces have abrasive dust. Have some prescription safety glasses made up if you wear glasses ordinarily. Hot metal work, wear only cotton and wool artificial materials. They can all burn but the natural fibres will not melt onto you. In fact the single most important thing with any PPE is that it should be comfortable and pleasant to wear. It should be comfortable enough to wear all day...and not be lying on the bench in between activities. Everybody does it, and most people get away with it most of the time. Be a lucky smith and learn by somebody else's mistake when it comes to preventable injury. Alan
  12. It is all fraught with danger though...people that write reference books are not always practicing or practical people. They make mistakes. I even know of two well respected practitioners in this field that have made mistakes when it came to putting their knowledge in print. I agree though it is the best we have got. Alan
  13. We have a green Oak sprung and Ash framed sofa made by an old school friend of mine using that technique. There was a revival of interest in the green woodworking techniques of the old Windsor chair bodgers a few years ago over here. Lots of courses sprung up alongside the survival type Ray Mears outdoor adventures. I made various bits and pieces of pole lathes and froes and the like for friends who became interested. The main chair making industry centre was not actually in Windsor but High Wycombe. The Bodgers turned the spindles green on pole lathes in the woods and stacked them up to season for a few months after which they were then taken down to the factories for assembly. The big trees were split and seats adzed out, drilled and assembled whilst still green. My father was a furniture designer-maker all his life. As his eye sight started to fail he moved over to lathe work spindle and bowl stuff which he could feel as well as see...the cabinet joint precision became fact I am looking at one of his stools now. That one has through tenons and wedges in the seat. Wedges always at right angles to the grain around the socket! He knew some of the old boys involved in the Windsor chair making Industry...or rather its Arts and Crafts revival from the turn of the century. One of the "wrinkles" I remember him passing on from them, was to use a bit of boiled potato in a failed shrink joint as a glue! It works well. I used it recently to fix the wooden knob on the end of my Lee reloading press lever, which kept coming off has stayed on ever since, at least six months. Alan
  14. I did manage to clamber through to the lathe, it is buried under the interior trim panels of the old discovery I am rebuilding! The auger has the same cutting edge as OlioReader's, so I guess it was for the same purpose. I can't get back to edit my earlier post but a bit is the too small should have ended "even for the Windsor spindle back joints" The augers I have seen used for the spindle backs all had a single flute but included a taper twist screw point to locate centre and pull them in. The tapered screw tips work with side grain but aren't much good for the end grain boring that these lathe / spindle bits are designed for. Alan I even found the hollow centre device that it worked through.
  15. I do not think they are for metal...the cutting edge is too fine. I do not think they are for chair making...they are too long and too small diameter. They look similar to the augers my father used through a hollow tail stock device on his wood lathe to drill things like the cable way for a standard lamp or table lamp...the standard lamps poles were always made in two pieces because the lathe bed was not long enough to do it in one. The augers kept central...most of the time. If I can dig through my storage junk in his workshop I will check and photograph one. Alan