Aden Cassidy

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About Aden Cassidy

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia, NSW
  • Interests
    Archery, reading, shooting, Bladesmithing.
    Video games.

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  1. Can't do that here in Australia, most of our axes need to have a thickish edge cause of how hard and knotted a lot of our woods are. Just try cutting a gum(eucalyptus) log and getting some to split is a slight tap while you really need to wallop others from the same tree. Then you have the knots etc... Others will also just go less than 25mm into the log even while trying to follow the grain, only thing to use then is a chainsaw.
  2. ahhh, my neck of the woods. Where about is Aus did you send it Stormcrow. Also you might like a few things on Australian blade forums, have some ABS JS's here now among them. Few of the blokes are on here as well. Some of the work and inspirations on there is awesome. engravers, jewellers/knifemakers, sheathmakers to name a few of the craftsmen on there.
  3. Have a look at gameco they are bringing wilmont grinders into aus at the moment. Then there is also the radius master which is designed and built right here in Aus. There is a few attachments for both of these machines but those get quite pricey from what I have seen.
  4. If you use stainless I am pretty sure it must be heat treated to spring but I think I heard that doesn't need to be done with titanium. Don't quote me on this it is just something I have heard.
  5. Just chuck it back in the oven at tempering temp, then get a little piece of leaf spring etc... with a slight curve. I have one roughly 300mm long for this, you then use a metal clamp and make it straight or just slightly bent the other way and put it back in the oven leaving it for 30min then let it cool slowly. This is what I did with a warped cooking knife recently.
  6. You do it before you harden as it marks the line between the harder edge and softer spine where the satanite/clay was. And yes polishing the blade till it shines then a slight etch to bring it out is what works best.
  7. Looks nice, I have tried composite handles lately and they can be annoying. But this one looks fantastic.
  8. How did you get enough stock to forge this out of coil spring? whats the actual size of the axe when finished.
  9. WOWZER, look at those horns!!!! Really nice table by the way as well.
  10. I have seen similar ones we have in my blacksmithing group that held a pick head. Also ones made like that are good for holding bits of flat bar as well for knife making. That's what I am buying a smaller pair for anyway.
  11. Small primitive style knife for a blokes black powder kit. Weighed less than 100 grams.
  12. Nice score tim, looks like the same photos you had on ABF. But a totally square forge, haven't seen one before. Only seen rectangular upside down pyramid style or round for solid fuel till now.
  13. Hey Chris, love the axes and especially the engraving. By the way in your location by Down Under do you mean here in Aus? If so do you post on any ozzi sites as well.
  14. I generally use a small sledge hammer, I think it was originally a plumbers hammer that I bout for $25-30 here in aus at bunnings years ago. Started forging when I was about 13-14 and now am turning 21 soon. I started off with a smallish ball pain, less than 2 pounds. Then after a few months of the basic leaves etc... I bought this 4 pound sledge and use it for almost everything, after you find the size and shape of hammer you like don't just switch to it right away. It takes a while till you can use a significantly heavier hammer all day long just by itself, pace yourself and switch between them. Hell I even use this when my blades are forged to size and to refine the bevels and straighten the blade. I can basically finish a blade in less than five hours from a piece of coil spring, use a file for about 10 minutes then sandpaper to polish etc,.. using this hammer and one pair of tongs.
  15. Looks like an absolute ripper mate, should be proud of yourself for that bit of work.