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About DanielC

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    Piedmont, NC

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  1. Testing everything out. Works better than i had hoped. Die fits tight. Keys fit rather well.
  2. The dies came annealed. After all the machine work i normalized 3x at 1650F, and then hardened at 1550F in 10 gallons of Parks 50 which was at 75F. I am not overly concerned if the main body wasnt as hard as the face of the die. Since its roughly the same diameter as many of my 4140 hand hammers thats are hardened in Parks, i knew it would take on full hardness. Now for final fitting of the key.
  3. Looks like a self contained under the tarp.
  4. Ugh, such little available on Nazel.
  5. Ahh so the tag serial doesnt reference a year at all. It did in a card catelog somewhere, forgotten in time though. I keep meaning to buy that book. Does jt contain info on self-contained hammer?
  6. I need more info on this from books. I didnt realize Murco was bought by LG. Whats yours look like?
  7. Well the machine company that had it eventually to sell to someone else has 1975 on thr date with a machine# which is i am assuming a catelog number for their records in their warehouse, and the date it was brought there? Or it was bought new and they were a distributor of the hammers and the date 1975 is the date of manufacture? Maybe the 2052 serial number on the Murco tag means it was the 20th machine made in 1952?
  8. It is amazing that i just found this thread, and i was replacing the tension spring for the first time on my 50# Murray. Like your Moloch, my Murray has some upgrades to the LG hammers you often see. Roger Rice is making up some keys and bolt down die blocks for my hammer as we speak. He said my hammer had very few hours on it, and thats after me pounding away with it for a few years. With that said, i havent forged with the new spring on, but before it was replaced, my 50# Murray has such ridiculously good control. It will forever be used as my blade hammer. Simply no replacing it.
  9. Ok so talked to the owner of little giant, and his ans for Murray and as indicated by my machine, that a Murray hammer has taper in tje female dovetails on the machine, but the dies are straight. I originally had my top die correct for my machine. LG's have a 2 degree taper, but my murray has a 1 degree taper. My top die that i milled the 2nd taper in as per instruction here can still work for my machine with a custom key, that they are also willing to make.
  10. Every hammer performs better on a foundation, but many advertise not needing it, such as the smaller Anyang. Didnt realize he didnt recommend it for the IK though. Digging a hole and concrete to fill it is relatively inexpensive.
  11. Personally i find the horse stall mat under my 50# to give too much. I regret putting it under there actually and plan on removing it lol. I feel like 2 sheets of 3/4" ply glued together would work a lot better. I have Fabreeka for my Nazel 4b. The going rate of it per sq/ft is $300-$400, but it and material like it are the best choice.
  12. I concur on pouring a good foundation. I poured 1.5 yards under my 50# Murray, and plan on pouring 16-20 under the Nazel 4B when I install it. With bigger hammers that I have been around the isolated foundation is a must. Especially as it appears this is in a shop connected to your house. My 50# mechanical is rock solid on its 3.5' thick foundation. The only indication that it is running is the smacking of the material with the top die. I also do not suggest dampening with a rubber material. Stick with lumber. If I remember right, your size is a bit of an enigma for the IK. Most of his tup weights were smaller in his production and were closer to a 20:1 ratio. Not to say 16:1 is bad. My Nazel with sow block and bottom die on the anvil is around 19:1 ratio. A lot of other hammers dont even come close to either numbers. If I were to own a hammer that was not self contained like this class of hammers, the IK be the one. I ran the 110 at Kerry's for like 3 minutes, and it was a beast. Very ridgid I remember thinking when it would hit.