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Mr volcano burners - international options?


Hefty

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Hi All,

Can anyone in the US confirm that Mr Volcano burners are still available for individual purchase?

I'm looking on the US and AUS Amazon sites and I can't find the burners by themselves. They aren't even offered on the Mr Volcano website?!

I'm still seeing people refer to them as a great deal at the current price (and I'd love to drop a Christmas hint to the wife) but I can't find them anywhere!

Any help greatly appreciated!

Jono.

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Dang, that's what I was afraid of. 

I would almost consider the whole kit but I've already got a forge shell to put it in! (Hopefully, a new thread soon to be posted!).

Oh well, I'll just have to put my two little 3/8" burners in it, instead. 

Cheers, 

Jono. 

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I've posted about them previously but I can't remember where. Burners 101 or AHB's 3d printed burner thread, I think.

With advice from you, Frosty and AHB; and Trevor84's 1/4" micro "pocket rocket" as a template I made my first one and then accidentally created parallelogram intake holes on it when it twisted in the lathe chuck when I threaded it.

I also asked questions in the forges 101 section about casting flame retention nozzles into the forge shell for them, but there was some confusion and things were lost in translation.

Anyway, I've just finished casting a monolithic interior shell out of castable refractory and I've (hopefully, provided everything's set well) cast two burner ports with nozzles in situ.

...oh okay, here's some pics of the shell casting up (Sorry, haven't got any photos of the burners on hand):

The mold, made from too many pieces of PVC and clear Perspex. The top piece of Perspex and the outer PVC pipe are both split into 2 pieces.

20231210_155325.thumb.jpg.506d4ab66b0d014babdb59b61e2809f1.jpg

Everything cast in place. I originally wanted a flange like this on both ends to contain the ceramic wool I will put around it but I couldn't figure out how to cast it in one go.

20231210_161917.thumb.jpg.8d5bc6aab3a2475efc2a73e3a38c728d.jpg

The whole thing sitting in a plastic rubbish bin on a brick over some water for a humid set/cure (lid went on after the pic).

20231210_164021.thumb.jpg.e72a1859ce64c4affc6573f9e4fa142c.jpg

I hope de-molding it goes easier than I'm expecting it too, or I might end up snapping off the surrounds of the burner ports. :wacko: Fingers crossed!

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I did something similar when I made my first and only cylindrical forge but I used "Sono tubes," the cardboard concrete forms used to make footings and pillars. The OD of the inside one is the ID of the forge chamber and the outside tube has an ID 1" larger for a cast hard refractory flame face 1/2" thick. I drilled the burner port after it set but before it was fully hard. 

I made the ends by rolling the refractory, cutting the openings and sticking on the ends after I inserted the insulated inner shell into the pipe shell. It didn't go as smoothly as it sounds here, now but it worked for a first propane forge. It only had 1" of Kaowool outer liner and I wrapped it around the set and cured flame face inner liner and compressed it with paper and masking tape so it'd slip into the shell.

Were I to use the technique now I'd cast burner flares into the hard liner too but I probably won't make a cylindrical forge again. 

How did you mold the flares?

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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After all the to-ing and fro-ing, I ended up opting for stepped nozzles in the end, because I could simply wrap some greaseproof paper around the same tube stock I made the mixing tubes and the nozzle spacer rings out of. The larger tube was intended to pull inside the ID tube and the smaller tube out through the OD tube and extra forms I had protruding. Unfortunately, I relied too much on the plastic to not stick to the castable without extra lubrication/mold release agent. The photos above were taken yesterday and after 24 hours, when I went to de-mold it today, no amount of careful prying and chipping could get it loose :(

I was really happy with how hard it was, except I couldn't successfully de-mold it without breaking it. The burner mounts broke off and the ID tube was stuck fast.

Being a small forge, and with the amount of castable I have, I'm not too upset, because I've learned enough to be able to re-make the mold with every section apart from the cast nozzle sections (these came out from the inside ok) being two-piece and I will spray the heck out of everything with spray oil, or similar, to enable it to de-mold more easily. I was about to re-cast everything when I realised it was getting late so I'm going to do it tomorrow.

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I wonder if it's a location thing? I'm searching the US site, but being in Australia it might limit what I can see. Their other parts and consumables are there and they say "ships to Australia" but no burner.

Might have to find someone with a VPN and ask them to search for me.

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Well, second time's a... something. 

20231214_154631.thumb.jpg.bdc173b6c912fa4bfb862840aafcb824.jpg

I think it should be viable but there are some voids in it.

I haven't picked up any ceramic wool yet.  Will it hurt to do a short test fire with the burners in it without the extra insulation? (Apart from it getting hotter on the outside).

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That I don't know Hefty, without insulation around it it's going to cool off REALLY fast. I don't know if it'd be fast enough to cause it to crack or worse break apart.

Patience is a good thing. It won't eliminate problems but it sure can reduce them.

Frosty The Lucky.

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