Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Adair

Members
  • Content Count

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Adair

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

2,356 profile views
  1. I make hooks sometimes at public demos. I'm aiming for consistent forms from 3/4" round stock. No swage, just a hammer, anvil and punch. I like the proportions of the ones you've shared here.
  2. Hi Glenn, I have a few things on wheels, but my goal is to avoid them. I've spent too much time in shops where things move and wiggle about. It comes somewhat at the cost of circulation space, but I'd rather have fewer tools than constantly be shuffling things around. It's not a shop that can do everything, but it suits the way I work I have wheels on the obvious things: welder, oxy acetylene rig, forge, bandsaw and my fabrication table which can dock against my platten table to extend my layout space. Frosty, The dashed lines are overhead beams. In the pacific northw
  3. My disorganization has finally led me to a complete shop overhaul. The only thing fixed was my power hammer. I decided nearly every other item had to move to improve my efficiency. It took most of the afternoon to move everything, and it took twice that long to lay it out, but I can tell it is going to pay off. I post here just to encourage people to make as accurate a drawing as they can and test everything from the handle swing on a hossfeld to outlet or lighting locations.
  4. Goods, Very constructive suggestions, thank you. The keyway is a great idea, it need not be deep to be effective. -Adair
  5. Frosty, Bolting from the top does make sense for various reasons. Thank you for the suggestion. Jim Coke, I strongly disagree with your assertion and find your conclusion pretty limiting. Finding terminology to describe the processes for forging plate into vessels seems elusive sometimes (as evidenced by this meandering discussion thread). I suspect we are just visualizing something different. I do this work already (though inverted) with both sledge on anvil and set tool on my Litle Giant. I posted earlier on this thread of the same process done with a water powered tilt hammer
  6. Frosty, Negative. Please ignore those images. I am referring to the last image posted. The one with the note identifying "cylindrical forming die". (It's photobucket, I don't know if everyone can still see it). I just want to make a shallow sow block but don't want to machine it all from solid. I'd like to use 2" plate with a male dovetail bolted on. -Adair
  7. I wanted to revive this thread in hope of receiving some input on one question: Is it wise to bolt on a dovetail on a 100# little giant per the lower right drawing in the above post? I'm imagining (4) 3/4" socket head cap screws up from the lower part of the dovetail
  8. I've seen plenty of folks trying to sell junk to suckers, but the Craigslist ad I came across today was so upsetting. Someone took an anvil that must have had a hard life and milled the top right down to nothing. The horn and cutting table were ground down, and blended smoothly. The anvil was advertised as having no repairs and looked quite convincing, but anyone who has dripped sweat on an anvil would see the clues. Someone spent a lot of time on it. Hopefully someone purchases it for interior decor because I doubt there is a smidge of tool steel left on that face. As a beginner I might
  9. Adair

    Show me your Lathe

    It has taken a couple years, one lathe would come up for free, it became too much of a project or ill-suited for my needs and I would swap our for the next freebie to come along. This 18' ATW fit the bill nicely. It was in many parts on a pallet at the salvage yard across the street. I put it back together and just sorted out the wiring this week. I took the first cuts yesterday and now have a learning curve with the lantern style tool holders to sort out how to grind the HSS bits. This machine takes up a good chunk of my shop floor so I'm elated to finally have it running. 201911
  10. Thank you both for helping me face the reality. I asked them to just send the dies back. We'll see how long they hold up pounding cold sheetmetal. I'll be curious until the end of time what steel I actually purchased. It was soooo long ago. The first tool steel I ever paid for. -Adair
  11. Hello all, I sent some dies to a heat treat shop. I had 4140 written on the steel. I have a few hundred dollars invested in machining. They were heat treated but do not test above 45 Hrc. I was after 54 Hrc. The representative in the shop thought they behaved like 4130. He can case harden them but these dies are for cold work (sheet metal power hammer). Is there any prudent next step that I might be able to take. I bought the steel new but it was 20 years ago. I must have mislabeled it. -Adair
  12. Adair

    "New" hammer

    My first guess was a sawyer's hammer. Your explanation reinforced my conclusion. It's light compared to many sawyer's hammers I've seen, but the opposed, wide peins look correct. -Adair
  13. Iron Dragon, Thanks a million. This forge belonged to my friends grandfather and he would like to be able to use it again. Very interesting to know that it was welded. I was hoping to rivet the corners! -Adair
  14. Irondragon, I would really appreciate that if you have the time. Thank you. In the attached image you can see what is left of the forge I've been asked to reconstruct. -Adair
  15. Hello, A friend has asked me to reconstruct a forge identical to this one. There is next to nothing left of the box and lid, but the hardware and legs are all intact. I was hoping I could get a measurement of the thickness of the sheet metal used so that I can have a new one brake formed. Any chance you could provide that? -Adair
×
×
  • Create New...