Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Need a new forge


Swamp_Rat

Recommended Posts

First time poster here. I’ve been forging for about 2 years now and I feel the thing that’s holding me back a lot is not being able to get to forge welding temps. 
 

my current forge is a 20lb propane tank made slightly oblong with 2” of ceramic fiber covered with kast o lite 30 and brushed with itc-100 and has a Mr volcano burner in it. I do have fire brick doors on the front and back and 3 bricks to build up the floor and take up space. I used to run at about 5 psi but increased to 8 and noticed a big change in heat. I’ve went to 12-14 to try and forge weld but no luck!

Any help or advice would be so greatly appreciated, I work in the metal fab industry so making a new forge isn’t hard to do if needed, I just require the knowledge 

Thank you. 7F9D3DF1-1B1F-4F10-866F-B0CEA9737117.thumb.jpeg.0f1a5e17b69614ec20272dc7a9585aa5.jpegBE8A5A6A-58E8-4FF3-9F4D-327DCD6EB7FC.thumb.jpeg.53ec3d4a01a69d15d5bd8b18cb9304fa.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of your problems shown in these photos is that your burner is severely choked down; open it up. The photo also shows blue flame coming out of front and rear openings; this is carbon monoxide being burned off, which should have been burned away in the burners flame; it was not, because the burner is being starved of air. At least open the choke enough to completely burn its fuel.

Secondly, using extra bricks to eliminate space within the forge, creates all manner of problems. Such a 'cure' is worse than the illness.

However, one of the photos also shows that, at least the end of the part is white hot. Are you sure that your welding problem is due to low forge heat?

Finally, open the gas valve comletely; it is a ball valve, not a needle valve.

A partially open ball valve creates cavitation; this will enterfere with the gas jet, which is your burner's engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once your burner can work properly, you will come up against another problem, for I see the cross angle, holding your brick doors is place, is already starting to overheat. You need to move  those bricks about one-inch away from the edge of the forge opening, so that the exhaust gases can rise up between the brick doors and the edge of the exhaust opening. It is fine to leave the back doors where they are, because you want to encourage the exhuast to pour out the front opening; once it can without hindrance, it should stop pouring out past the back bricks.

You would be wise to exchange the wood pieces near the back of your forge, for cement board...before they catch fire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your response and help! 
I initially had the choke on my burner opened all the way but I was getting bad putting and scaling so I tried it closed up to see if that helped. I was running at 4-5 psi so maybe I just didn’t have enough fuel for the amount of air?

I have opens the ball valve fully now and will bring my forge into work and reposition the front doors. Is there something I can do better instead of stacking bricks to take up space?

Thank you for the tip on the back wall, I already had cement board to put up it just hadn’t made it there yet, and that photo makes it look a lot closer than it actually is (still not ideal, I know)

Thanks for all the help and suggestions

*what psi should I expect to run when forge welding? Maybe I’m being to frugal with my propane. 

 

Edited by Mod30
Remove excessive quote.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Swamp_Rat said:

I initially had the choke on my burner opened all the way but I was getting bad putting and scaling so I tried it closed up to see if that helped. I was running at 4-5 psi so maybe I just didn’t have enough fuel for the amount of air?

Most smiths prefer a reducing flame, to keep scaling minor; this is fine. However, this is one more example of "if some is good, isn't more better?" To which the answer is NO! A slightly reducing flame provides reasonable assurance that little super heated oxygen will impinge on the heating parts. Increasing the amount of fuel gas past this point adds nothing useful to this situation; it only lowers internal temperatures, and produces carbon monoxide gas into the exhaust. So, play with the flame, until you become familiar enough to see the point where the secondary flame envelope becomes minor, but is still present; that is the best balance of positive to negative factors.

Four to five PSI fuel pressure is way to low for welding with this burner series. You need to understand that these tube burners are designed to produce high-speed flames; this is accomplished with smaller gas orifice diameters and higher gas pressures passing through them. Expect to run around fifteen PSI for welding. Lowering gas pressures is actually a losing proposition, since a successful forge operates as a radiant oven. A yellow-white forge enterior will heat the work far faster than an orange hot surface. So, increasing gas pressure saves more than it costs, so long as you aren't wasting gas with a flaming exhaust.

Instead of adding bricks--even insulating bricks--to the forge, you are better off to add insulation over the floor, with Kast-O-lite 30 on top of it, so as to reshape the inside of the forge, closer to a "D" on its side shape. The reason is that you want the hot internal atmosphere of the forge to circulate without hindrance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mikey98118 thank you for all of the help. I’ll get the bottom of the forge all fixed up. I should re word that when my forge is up to temp I was running 4-5 psi just to forge, not welding heat. I went to around 12 psi when I tried welding. I’ve since increased my psi to 7-8 when forging and I’ll try 15 or a bit higher tonight for welding

 

Thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are welcome. Answers is what we are here for. Each one of you who speak out about a problem, is only one of many more around the world, who are also wrestling with similar issues. So, when we write back to one of you, all those others have the chance for an answer too. That you get particular answers to particular questions is your reward for speaking out :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And once you figure your burner out you might like to check out the Burner's 101 section of Iforge. It contains many issues, solutions and proven home built burners and what makes them work the way they need to, to work well in a forge.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the traffic load has been pretty low. I think it's the general state of life right now with a hard winter thrown in. Snow storms, floods, wind storms, etc. I know a few folks who've taken second jobs to make ends meet and are still struggling. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Frosty said:

And once you figure your burner out you might like to check out the Burner's 101 section of Iforge. It contains many issues, solutions and proven home built burners and what makes them work the way they need to, to work well in a forge.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thank you! I definitely will. I’m still having some troubles, so I think I’ve got a lot to learn. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, it's just the learning curve. Nobody is born knowing this stuff or anything for that matter we all started where you are, just some of us a couple few decades ago.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...