Finishes for Metal

I have an outside gate project that is going to consist of 3" x 3"x.25" mild angle frames back to back and galvanized stock panel in the middle. Looking to get a Cor Ten looking finish with out using Corten. What is everyones experience with sealing or clear coating rusted steel.

I'm working on a belt buckle, and am having second thoughts about the finish. I was going to paint it, which I've done on belt buckles in the past, but paint chips over time and I'd like something more long-lasting that won't rub off easily on clothes. My next idea was a beeswax and linseed oil finish, coated with paste wax and dried. I've used this on some other pieces and it seems like it would work but I'd be interested in other opinions.

I'm building some fire doors and my partner on this job is thinking about using this stuff.....A 2000*f clear coat for painting exaust pipes. Anybody ever tried it? http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=C1ApprxJrUpPwIeTiiQKdnoHIB5WJqOwD1fymwXbVrtXXlgEIBRAEKAVQmMaIiQFgycaNh8yjwBfIAQeqBCZP0IcbNcZOGKLa1LxDoOQFNX9iW0F1Wz6HeqTVsD-I_8ZP8dgthcAFBaAGJoAH7aP_I5AHA-ASjfCT3pOyosE0&sig=AOD64_269-VRvnUv299E9aKIReJq3ceuMA&ctype=5&rct=j&q=helix+very+high+temp+exhaust+paint&ved=0CD4Qvhc&adurl=http://www.denniskirk.com/314233.sku%3Futm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dcse&cad=rja

What methods are used to finish large items like tables and chairs. I'm a new blacksmith and have made some very nice furniture (so I'm told) recently. The finish however is a problem. I'd like that nice blackened and oiled appearance. I've resorted to sand blasting. This removes the mill scale from the hot rolled sections that don't get any heat and makes everything uniform, then reheat the whole item with a propane weed burner. I can then apply linseed oil or just a clear varathane. This its very inefficient and really not the look I'm after. Please help me out with your suggestions.

I'm after a cleaning agent that'll thoroughly clean mild steel without affecting the colour, does anyone know anything that might be suitable? My usual process after forging is: sand it to bring out the texture, clean with household washing up liquid using the scouring pad side of a normal sponge, food safe finish it. Cleaning it that way is a laborious process that takes several goes but it gets me there in the end however yesterday I was having problems with one bowl where regardless of how many times I cleaned it every time I started smearing vegetable oil over it to start the food safeing process the tissue came up dirty...despite no dirt coming off on the dis…

Hello, I am new to this group and so far quite glad I found it ! Has anyone ever done the old motor oil finish like they used to back in the day ? I know it s un ecological and highly toxic, but so far it is the only most long lasting finish I can find. I need to know everything there is to know about it. We use this technique for small items like hinges, but i ve got a large sculpture i hope to seal with the motor oil. It s a little discusting, it consists of heating the metal then dipping the piece into a bucket of used motor oil. This makes the metal black and rust proof for decades if not more. Multiple dipping is a good way to extend the life of the finish. I do …

I watched a programme about Tudor armourers a while back and I'm sure I remember the programme saying that for Queen Elizabeth's armour the armourers tempered it to an iridescent blue for effect, however over time the temper colours have faded. The blues and purples in tempering are lovely and seem like a nice way to finish some pieces. I bet I'm about to open Pandora's Box but what factors are involved in how long temper colours last and how can you preserve them?

I just finished a twin tripod cooking rack and am having a dilemma. Normally I seal work with the usual waxes of oils, but this one presents a unique challenge because of being used in close proximity to a camp fire. I have looked at high temperature paints for grills or automobile exhausts, but they all require that they be cured in heat. The length of the legs, at about 6 feet each, makes this impossible to properly cure these paints. Anyone run into this problem before? or know of a solution? Many thanks.

hi guys i was wondering how to make cooking utensils food safe. i make a some meat turners , grill forks , hot dog roasters but i need them safe to use in food. thaks kyler

I've made a few damascus steel blade using high carbon steel with manganese which is a dark greyish colour and silver steel. They look awsome but they are quite common designs. I was wondrin if there were any colored metals that i could use. i was thinkin red gord but with such a low meltin point it would be difficult to weld the layersin a billet

So I am making spindles for our stairs, and am looking at how to finish them, I've done a lot of reading here on it but I still have a couple questions that I cant find the answers to. First, are there any wax/oil finishes that can be applied cold? Secondly, I haven't found anything on what is needed to refinish a wax/oil finish, so in 5 years when its starting to get old and worn through would I have to take all the spindles out to re-heat and refinish them? Sorry if I've missed this in my searches.

Hey guys, I tried searching around but couldn't find anything - does anyone know where I can find some photos showing the different types of steel finishes out there? I've read a lot about different types of wax, linseed oil, tung oil, rustoleum, etc out there, but I can't decide which one I want to use on my current piece. a photo of each different finish end result I think would be really helpful. Does this exist anywhere? Thanks! Lodestone

I have 62 linear feet of forged railing to prep and need a fast way to remove all forge and mill scale. What grade of Black Beauty to use, medium, fine, or extra-fine? The medium would be fastest, but requires 1/4" blast nozzle, and 80 CFM at 90 psi, which means renting a bigger compressor than my 5hp 80 gal. Please help!!

I have a new customer that owns a store that trades in mountain man stuff. He came by a few weeks ago and looked at my stuff and placed an order. He liked everything the way it was. However, pick up and pay up day arrived and he told me he wanted most of the stuff painted instead of treated with wax and linseed oil and the other stuff just polished with a wire brush. Everything he ordered is going to be subject to use and abuse and I have never had paint that could stand up to that. Is there anything new on the market that I don't know of? Should I try to talk him out of his insanity? Should I run screaming?

How do you all finish your metal products. I just made a dinner triangle for the kiddos to hang outside, but don't want it to get all rusty and end up falling apart. What different products do you use for outdoor metals? What about indoors?

This is a picture of a "Stabburslås". A "Stabbur" is an outhouse set on stumps (stabbur) that are carved so that mice cannot climb them, where food and fine clothing was stored. It is made as an apprentice exam by locksmith Kjell Foldvik, in 1955. The key is typically around 5-6 inches long, so it is a rather large lock. What I'm wondering is how the near perfect finish is obtained? I do not think any sanding is used, power or not. and the baseplate is rather large to file, no? I've heard something about scraping. Is this somewhat like scraping wood? Or how does it work? Other possibilities?

Has anyone bothered to measure just how much material is removed by the etching process? Obviously, the strength of acid, kind of acid, the time spent etching, and the desired severity of etch all have an effect, but if a smith wanted a very dramatic topographic etch, are we talking a thousandth of an inch? One ten-thousandth?

Some of the most distinctive pattern welded steel I've seen has had a beautiful topographic etch. How is an etch like this produced? Is it all in material selection,or a specific acid? Thanks in advance!

I'm currently building a fire basket for someone, it's my first. I'm looking to paint it with black stove paint but apparently it is a bit soft and liable to scratching until cured (obviously it's intended for the outside of a wood stove. any ideas? or better suggestions?

Hey guys, I am very new to blacksmithing. I have made a set of fireplace doors for my grandmother, and the material I used had been sand blasted. So I am trying to figure out how to get black finish back on it. If I use the Beeswax, Turpentine mixture, will that acheive the look that I am after? Any help is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance. Chad

Hi folks -- Frist off I am not intrested in useing a ac/ox torch to heat Stainless & run colors for this project Now that being said What I am looking for is a way to color / patina stainless steel art pieces that we are doing these days some kind of acid ech or ??? ANY Info a book to ck out on this subject would help Roger & myself we are working on a fairly large piece & Roger would like to get some color / patina in it here & there THANKS alot for any help Steve P PS there will be pics of art piece sooner or later posted

I am wondering if anyone has ever tried to use Pine Pitch as a finish for metal. I was out collecting Pine Nuts the other day and realized I have a plentiful source for Pitch. I'd be interested in formulas or ideas on how to make the pitch dry or harden so it isn't sticky to the touch.

The thought occured to me the other day. It's caustic at least, (not sure if it's acidic?) and fairly cheap/available. Anyone ever try etching with it? Any idea what the active ingredient is, or the Ph? How much should it be diluted? Would coating with whiteout or wax be good enough to etch patterns into steel? Or would it eat the whiteout/wax right off? (I'm sure you guys are familiar with the process of coating steel in whiteout or wax, scratching words, patterns, etc with a small tool and the acid etches where you scratched it off) Would like to find out before trying it, in case it ends up being unsafe. If no one knows on here I guess I'll try to do a bit more…

I have a commission for a fireplace screen. They don't want black paint. I did a search and came up with Dave's fireplace screen thread, but would like a few suggestions. What finish do you use on fire screens that won't burn off easily? Thanks, John

Ok, first question for on here, and I hope it's in the right forum! I'm looking at some holiday themed items, and would like to be able to "stain" the steel with a greenish tint before waxing. I'm not a fan of actual paint, and do want to see the steel through the tint. Are there any ways to accomplish such a color stain? Where's the green Dykem when I need it? I'm going to experiment with some inks and such, but figured somebody on here had already done this. I wouldn't be surprised if it's already in a post - but I've yet to find it searching. Thank you, Jason