I have a commission for a fireplace screen. They don't want black paint.

I did a search and came up with Dave's fireplace screen thread, but would like a few suggestions.

What finish do you use on fire screens that won't burn off easily?

Thanks,

John

Powder Coating or anodized. You can use aluminum for the frame, but that may be to expensive. Most screening material comes in steel mesh. I have done two screens and powder coated both. It is expensive, but will last and not require yearly treatment.

is the fire place going to be used? I would use straight linseed oil.

Go with forged stainless steel and passivate and not worry about it!

The fireplace will be used. It is a true fireplace and they want doors that will be attached to the rock work.

I built railing for their decks this summer and powder coated them, but for inside the house they didn't want powder coat.

Will linseed oil stand up to the heat?

Thanks for the stainless idea Thomas, I'm not sure I could get them to swallow that bill!

Anytime there is a piece where the owners might not follow through with regular maintenance I suggest stainless.

Some of the wax and linseed oil finishes are "burnt on" at a black heat which is probably hotter than the fireplace screen should get in typical use.

I've used clear coat on several screens on big fireplaces that get used. Never had a problem with it! Cold oiling would be a good second joice!

Where you been Dave? havent seen you around :)

I use clear acrylic high heat from Summit Racing.Never had a problem with maintenance with this finish. I apply roughly 7 coats and encourage the owner to wipe down with lemon furniture polish annually..... :D

Where you been Dave? havent seen you around :)

Ehhhh Mississippi, Missouri, South Dakota (ABANA), Wyoming, Montana, Colorado, New Mexico, Texas.......I'm sure I'm missing a couple. Been on the road without internet for a month. Just got back a week ago. Been REALLY busy since then too!

I use a blacksmiths wax that has been around awhile. It has boiled linseed oil, Johnsons Paste Wax, bees wax, turpintine, and Japan Drier in it. I use this on all my fireplace sets and screens and can easily be reapplied over time if needed. I you would like the recipe I can post it for you.

Is the secret - with a nod and never to be used to cause anyone heart burn for legal reasons - 1.5 cups melted beeswax & 1 cup turpentine & 1 cup linseed oil & 1 teaspoon Japanese drier?

EDIT: I will change this post again.

Have you thought of electroplating?

Nothing wrong with a simple primer and a coat of good enamel. I used Valspar brand recently. Choose any color the client desires.

Thanks Frank, but the family doesn't want paint...so I am searching for a good finish that will stand up.

I use a blacksmiths wax that has been around awhile. It has boiled linseed oil, Johnsons Paste Wax, bees wax, turpintine, and Japan Drier in it. I use this on all my fireplace sets and screens and can easily be reapplied over time if needed. I you would like the recipe I can post it for you.

I would appreciate it greatly if you did post the recipe you use.

Commercial stove black made with graphite and black pigment works well and has low odor when applied

A Wax for all Seasons

1 cup Johonson's paste wax
1 cup boiled linseed oil
1 cup turpentine
1/2 cup shaved bees wax
2 tlbs Japan Dryer

I put all the ingredients into a new metal 1 qt. paint can and set on the top of the forge to melt. Do not place it over a direct flame. You could use a electric heat gun. Let it melt slow and then mix together. If you are unfamiliar with Japan Dryer. It is a paint additive to help oil based paints dry faster. I buy mine at Home Depot. Warm the part, to the point it is hard to hold on to, and apply wax. then 2nd and 3rd coats when part cools. Let dry overnight buff to luster.

A Wax for all Seasons

1 cup Johonson's paste wax
1 cup boiled linseed oil
1 cup turpentine
1/2 cup shaved bees wax
2 tlbs Japan Dryer

I put all the ingredients into a new metal 1 qt. paint can and set on the top of the forge to melt. Do not place it over a direct flame. You could use a electric heat gun. Let it melt slow and then mix together. If you are unfamiliar with Japan Dryer. It is a paint additive to help oil based paints dry faster. I buy mine at Home Depot. Warm the part, to the point it is hard to hold on to, and apply wax. then 2nd and 3rd coats when part cools. Let dry overnight buff to luster.

 

I used this formula on a recent piece of work (except I omitted the Johnson's paste wax).  I heated the piece in the oven at 500F and then applied a coat of the wax liberally.  It looks great BUT it is not drying well. It has been three days now and it is still very tacky.  Suggestions?

Clear satin polyurethane works well and holds up to any normal heat.  I've probably got 30 fireplace screens out there and nobody has ever called back to complain.  I also used in on my screen at home and it doesn't peel unless you are in direct fire contact like with andirons or the tip of a poker.

Robo: the Johnson's contains Carnauba which is a surfacing hard wax, means it tends to come to the surface of the application and air hardens considerably. That much boiled linseed oil will take time to polymerize and remain tacky till it does. The Japan drier is a polymerizer and really shortens the time.

 

I use the "formula" I got from Bealer's Art Of Blacksmithing and it goes something like this. Melted wax, parafin or bee's, enough turpentine to soften it to a shoe polish consistency and soot, lamp black, etc. My next batch I'm going to try graphite powder as found at art suppliers for pigmenting paint. My first batch I used parafin and it's been standing up very well on outdoor pieces here for the last 15 years, no rust at all but these aren't wear items, mostly hangers of one kind or another.

 

It should be applied at just enough heat to make the turpentine steam out like smoke leaving the wax. The turps are a vehicle that carries the wax into the smallest nooks and crannies and if that's not enough the heat causes it to foam microscopically and be driven into said nooks and crannies.

 

On the other hand, paint is has been the preferred traditional finish for iron work since it was invented, modern tastes not withstanding.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Frosty,

Thanks. I like your (Bealer's) formula.  What do you do for soot?  Just scrape out your chimney or something?  Lamp black - it sounds kinda familiar, but can you buy lampblack?

 

BTW, it is starting to harden - little by little.  I think eventually, it'll be perfect - but at this rate it's gonna be at least three weeks total time.