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I Forge Iron


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About trinculo

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Asheville, NC
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Brazilian Jiu JItsu, Motorcycles

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  1. When a i was buying a new anvil several years ago it was between the 250 Fontanini and the 275 Pedd. The Fontanini was less expensive than the pedd @ the time and that was what I got. I think it ended up around $1350 with shipping to NC. Shortly after I got a deal on a slightly used 200kg Old world haberman pattern and would recommend their anvils without hesitation. I saw the Blu anvil at the NCABANA gathering and it looks like a baby haberman. Josh at Big Blu told me they are made from 1045. No idea of hardness but they looked very nice. Here is a little sheet comparing prices at the ti
  2. So because you never run across it it can't be L-6? Seems about the same degree of certainty as the OP assuming it is L6 based on a Junkyard guide. It is a mystery steel until a spectrograph or specs from the manufacturer define it as otherwise and it should be treated as such.
  3. Gorgeous knife. Please continue to make and share more.Sitting down or standing up you certainly have the eye and talent for it.
  4. I think Hofi uses stuff called sikaflex to glue the handles.
  5. I like 'em Black frog. Very cool idea with the jet. No doubt it will mean alot to the lucky septuagenarian grease monkey.
  6. Nice Tools Curly. The possibilities are vast with what you can do. Bending and straightening are so easy with the fly press.
  7. I'd be up for an induction build session. Done my far share of soldering electronics.
  8. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38110-5-flypress/ Whatever size table you will want to bolt it down, there is a tremendous amount of lateral torsion.. Here is the one I made for a Karachi #5. Base plate is 1.75" plate drilled and tapped to bolt the press down. Legs are 3" x.25" wall square tubing @ 18 degrees. I'm going to add some diagonals as even with it bolted you can see the table twisting when using the press with gusto.
  9. I can't see the taper of your drift from the thumbnail but that could be one thing. Upsetting with a flatter and cupping tool at least 4 times rotating 90 degrees each time usually shocks it loose. I'm not far from you if you want to come over one day and troubleshoot. Happy to help.
  10. Dan, i don't know you but if you think Brian has not been exposed to any real smiths . . . . Well then perhaps it is you who need to get out more. I've seen quite a few people forge, but very few have the chops Mr Brazeal has with a hammer and an Anvil. I would love to take a look at some of your work but your website appears to be offline.
  11. For a first hammer I would suggest a rounding hammer between 2.5 and 3.5 pounds. There are likely many people on here who could make you one. Do a search for a Brazeal style rounding hammer. That's a good place to start. A few people sell them on ebay. Aaron Cergol and Dave Custer that I know of make fine hammers and could make you whatever you want for less than hundreds of dollars. I think they sell in the $125-150 range for a nice forged hammer.
  12. I followed Andrew recommendations (except) I TIG'd them. They are seeming to be holding up well. I used a slight breeze of compressed air to harden a few of the shapes that didn't get hard the first time in still air to a file test.
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