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I Forge Iron


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About Stefflus

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  1. If this is some alltogether new, revolutionary process, then I think you already know way more than me. If you mean to go by it the conventional way, then there's a limit to how much I can say without getting into trade secrets. I can say this, however; If you are entering the high purity market, you'll need a supply of very clean quartz, which is really only found in the mediterranean in appreciable amounts. For small projects it might be found scattered all over in veins. If you are entering the normal market, it is highly competitive and the prizes are low. Compared to the other alloys I mentioned this process gives a very low yield, as quite a lot of the "ore" escapes the furnace as microsilica dust (which is a valuable product by itself). Because of this and other peculiarities it is of the more difficult to tap. It devours any steel it touches in an instant, making lancing arduous. Also, don't get it wet in a space with insufficient ventilation (such as in a boat hull). Boat crews have perished from the phosphine gas it emits when wet (at least the normal purity stuff).
  2. But ok, with some of the more common refrigerating liquid gasses you might get some spectacular cracking, but also a poisonous or explosive or environmentally hazardous cloud. I'm guessing the cracking spectacle would be not so different than one brought about by quenching an air hardening steel in water.
  3. ​What steel? I'm thinking that to get hot enough during tempering for the finish to stick you'd want at least something like A2 or D2? I've noticed canola doesn't stick at all unless I use it as a quenchant. (1095, L6)
  4. Heat of vaporization Water - 2260 kJ/kg Ammonia - 1371 kJ/kg Nitrogen - 199 kJ/kg Heat capacity Water - 4.18 kJ/kg·K Ammonia - 4.7 kJ/kg·K Nitrogen - 2.13 kJ/kg·K Heat conductivity Water - 0.58 W/m·K Ammonia - 0.540 W/m·K Nitrogen - 0.065 W/m·K (Silver - about 410 W/m·K) So, what steel and from what temperature? "Cryogenical" quenching of some high alloy steels is quite common, but it's not done with just one quenchant in one go. What I'm trying to say here is that liquid Nitrogen is a rather poor quenchant, and if you stick a piece of red hot steel into it you might make a woosh of very expensive air. Depending on the steel type and cross section there may be cracking. silly but enlightening video of "red hot nickle ball into liquid nitrogen"
  5. Frosty I have a feeling he's actually meaning to make Ferrosilicon, not Wrought. I used to work in a FeSi plant, and a FeCr+FeMn plant, and I can't fathom how anyone would want to do that for fun Well ok, making granulated FeSi is kind of fun the few times there's a real big steam explosion. The smallest furnace I've seen is a 1MW research one, which they stopped and cooled to study evidence of differing zones. Is this somewhat the plan? If not, what is this project? It's a rather strange project since it's so heavily studied already, unless you have a revolutionary new take on the process.
  6. bigfootnampa, seconded. Actually whenever there's risk of high enery catches, such as when roughing or working on the outer circumference of large, heavy bowl blanks, I just pinch the handle horizontally between two fingers, so that if it snags, the tool goes flying without breaking any of my fingers. It very rarely snags, tho. If you ever feel you need to resist the handle lifting, then the solution is not to hold harder, it is to sharpen the tool, spin the blank faster and ride the bevel. The weight of the handle alone should be enough force. Tucking is something you can do for comfort with a treadle lathe.
  7. Maybe, motor oils can be quite different things, as can vegetable oils. But I always advice to stay clear of used motor oil since it's really quite nasty, carcinogenic stuff, and going for something like canola
  8. I sense that you're eager to get going? In your position I would put the brake drum on hold, make a quick sideblast clay forge and make a first pair of tongs. Then, after getting to know it and if I felt the forge made a good even heat, I'd go ahead and harden the blade. Then you can tinker with sharpening, sheath and handle while contemplating how to design the brake drum forge, or forge some more in the sideblast.
  9. ​You could, but there would be risk involved. Also it would be easier to grind after temper. I usually brighten a patch on the steel immediately after hardening, then draw it to pale straw in the flame over the forge. That way I'm pretty sure it won't crack by the time I get home to my oven. I have also considered having a pot of boiling water to keep hardened things in until I can get around to tempering, because of the freezing temperatures I work in.
  10. My immediate thought is that I wouldn't make a taper that puts a wedging force against those thin webs I'd set the block on end with the radiused edge up, and weld on a square hardy. But I'm guessing you've already made a conscious decision on this matter.
  11. Very nice! Any reason you didn't sharpen it on both faces, or is there a microbevel I'm not seeing? I'm quite sure it will not be ideal for hollowing, but it's perfect to have one like this for outside work even when making bowls. If you do make a curved one, might I suggest you bend the pick side of the hammer down the shaft? This would add a bit of mass, plus give you strength when levering out chips.
  12. Yes, but hardly in an atmosphere exceeding 900o C. In exceeding amount it might make slag doughy though because of its high melting point
  13. What handle has the power to do it if control is lost? A rivet hole broach? I'm thinking most likely not a machine handle per se, but a tong or tool handle in a power hammer?
  14. I get alot of people asking how much their woodworking tools are worth, and I reply "It's worth what you can get for it". Then they often throw out an ebay-price, and I have to ask "Do you know if it's actually sold for that?" Generally, people in this country has too much money, so interior design means old tools and anvils go for vastly inflated prices, it's almost always cheaper to buy new. A woodworking friend of mine beat me to some chisels and a plane at a fair we were at. The initial asking price was about 200$. "Oh, you're going to USE it?? -Tell you what, give me 10$ for them" :D
  15. For you Marius I would suggest these, in this order: http://cdon.no/b%C3%B8ker/bergland,_h%C3%A5vard/kunsten_%C3%A5_smi-927620 Håvard Bergland - "Kunsten å smi" (Curriculum at Hjerleid school) http://www.adlibris.com/se/bok/nya-jarnsmidesboken-9789197563499 Norèn og Enander - "Nya järnsmidesboken" http://www.adlibris.com/se/bok/klassiskt-jarnsmide-9789197261586 Norèn og Enander - "Klassiskt järnsmide"
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