Greenbeast

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About Greenbeast

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    http://www.pigstyforge.co.uk

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    Kent, England

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  1. time-to-complete was a concern of mine
  2. This is the best photo i could get I'm going to try playing with the temperature of the forge this weekend. I need to put twists in the fire tools i'm making and cannot afford to risk them cracking after the work i've put in to the finials
  3. virgin mild steel no pics but i can do some tomorrow
  4. A couple of times recently i have experienced the corners on a piece of steel cracking. Today was the worst/most demoralising. I spent 5-6 hours tapering 12mm square bar, and noticed some slight cracking but managed to not make it worse. Until i came to scroll them all, the edges opened right up and now they're not worth what i'm meant to be charging for this project. What could be causing this? I'm forging with gas Could it be too hot, too cold (unlikely i think), too rich or too lean burn? Too long in and out of the forge? I spent 90mins doing a pair of them at one point I now face the prospect of replacing a whole days work with not a lot of time to do it in :(
  5. ok yes, i'd like to avoid acid as much as possible so i think i will try the reverse electrolysis, we have a battery charger on site
  6. Thanks guys. I was thinking about acid bath, so i will give the muriatic a go
  7. I've got a customer who has a reasonable list of jobs for me to do, but he wants everything to look aged, as though it's been there a century or more, even internal brackets, etc... What would be the best way of achieving this?
  8. yeah i did this a few years back for the then wife, she was chuffed. i was quite pleased with myself too
  9. Thanks guys, i do have a reasonably sized fly press. I have enough steel to continue with this project using alternative fixing methods. Although i do like the pre-bending method as it will allow me to use welding which will seal the seam/gap ready for galv/powercoat
  10. it's hot dip I was just going to ask about the brazing option, i've never done any
  11. Ok thanks, at least you have confirmed my fears, and that i will need to look for a solution
  12. Hello all, Relating to this thread: I'm considering using countersunk screws, stitch welds or rivets (countersunk, welded and cleaned on the front at least) Does anyone have any idea how this will behave with galv and powdercoat, given that there will be a seam along the part, or all of the bar. Will the galv penetrate between the two component bars sufficiently or am i opening myself up to rusting problems down the line? Thanks all!
  13. It is purely ornamental, i thought it might be aesthetically better to lose the seam between the bars I'm debating minimal welding or the countersunk screws. The piece will be galvanised and powder coated. my concern is getting a proper coating in between the pieces, if it was screwed at least it would be removable but the 10x10 might be more likely to warp in galv (i think?).
  14. i use mine all the time, cleaning up burrs, tidy up a fish mouthed bar end, etc... i find it easier to put a 90 degree end on a bar after cutting using a platen on the grinder. also handy to sharpen/refinish knives, punches, hammer faces
  15. Thanks guys. Mick, yes i guess it would be possible to use countersunk screws, i was going for the solid bar look so it didn't occur to me. John, I did actually weld it in short 25-50 sections all over the bar.