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I Forge Iron


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About Akad

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    Junior Member

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Lifting weights, running, forging, drawing, music, (Drums and more recently, guitar)cooking, heavy metal music, religion, football.


  • Location
    Middle-of-Nowhere, Iowa
  • Biography
    My real name's Austin, I've been in the smithing game for 4 or 5 years
  • Interests
    Forging, Drumming, Video games, lifting, running, hanging out with friends
  • Occupation
    None, currently... I'm a student and supposedly that'll pay off in the long run...

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  1. Maybe a Celtic sword that took on Roman influence after the occupation? Looks nice though.
  2. Generally a flamberge is a fairly large two-handed sword with a wavy blade (flamberge would mean flame blade). It can also come in a one-handed form, but I think most people think of the larger variety first.
  3. Hmm... I would forge the hatchet with the hammer on the back first. Make sure the eye is big enough to put the piece of metal you'll use for your handle/prybar through. Assemble it, then forgeweld it shut, making sure it's a good solid weld. (That will probably be the hardest step in the process, you'll probably have to practice just forgewelding simple things first.) Once it's all forge-welded, then go ahead and shape the prybar, cut the little nail puller into there, and rivet the handle on. Like I said, try your hand a forgewelding first. You wouldn't want this to be your first attempt
  4. I see the Celtic qualities as well as some Roman qualities, but a lot of Iron Age swords looked similar, probably used similarly. Also, cultures spread, even back then, and influenced one another. In any case, it was truly a successful experiment, as it looks awesome!
  5. I thought it was something Europeans introduced to the Indegenous Americans as a sort of gift. And it like, symbolized whether they would fight (the tomahawk) or be friendly (smoke the pipe together). I'm not expert though.
  6. Ooh I like that. Can't really see the handle well in this pic though. Looking forward to seeing some others!
  7. Wow, thanks for posting that video Mat! I kind of want to try my hand at casting now. Looks pretty dangerous though, and they're standing a little too close to the steam for my comfort. Also need to get a sturdy lad for working the bellows! But casting an item of the magnitude that Razzputin is atempting would probably be the easiest/quickest option.
  8. Perhaps. I'm trying to think of how that would work. Make the guard, the skull decoration and the curved horns that go around the guard all separate. It would take a lot of skill, but I think you could weld the skull to the guard, then loop the horns around guard as they are in the pic, and hold them in place with C clamps or something to the top of the skull, weld them onto the skull. But it would require accurate/solid welds. But once that was done, since the skull is on one side, you would be able to mount it onto the blade and handle according to the pic without much difficulty. A lot
  9. I definitely see the appeal of trying to make a replica of a cool fantasy sword. I too play WoW (just look at the profile pic), and I too once tried to make a cool fantasy sword, one even simpler than this, out of a leaf spring. I too thought that I would be an exception to needing years of experience and practice. I made a fairly decently sized "Katana," and it actually held up pretty well. It did end up a ton more curved than I intended, the handle was crooked, the bevel was all kinds of screwy, and in short, it wasn't nearly as cool as I thought it would be, as it was a SLO (Sword Like Obje
  10. Thanks for all the answers. Though I wouldn't be too worried about inhalation, as I have a fairly well ventilated area and a legit gas mask (It works well, I've used it to avoid fumes from paint and cleaning chemicals) Guess I'll just stick with warm/hot vinegar, though I've toyed with the idea of using something like lemon juice, which (I think) is a bit more acidic than vinegar.
  11. I suppose that's true. Could it be used to etch copper or brass then somehow?
  12. The thought occured to me the other day. It's caustic at least, (not sure if it's acidic?) and fairly cheap/available. Anyone ever try etching with it? Any idea what the active ingredient is, or the Ph? How much should it be diluted? Would coating with whiteout or wax be good enough to etch patterns into steel? Or would it eat the whiteout/wax right off? (I'm sure you guys are familiar with the process of coating steel in whiteout or wax, scratching words, patterns, etc with a small tool and the acid etches where you scratched it off) Would like to find out before trying it, in case it
  13. Ok, so yesterday I had some down time and drew up the handle and blade, with a cutaway view to show the spring and the locking bar thingy. I cut em out and laid them over and I see how it works. Today I took apart the old one I had and makes tons more sense. I might use the spring from it for the knife I'm gonna start working on. However, this doesn't tell me anything for the future. What sort of material is used for the little rod spring in a lockback knife? I've heard music wire can work as well, and I could probably get some of that pretty easily. Would anyone know about that/recommend
  14. Ok I think that helps, thank you. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to *carefully* disassemble this old lockback I have. It only cost a buck when I bought it, and I quit using it when the clip broke off. For a cheapy knife it locks and stays closed alright so it should be a decent model to go off of.
  15. So I've been thinking about making a folding knife. I decided I liked the lock back design, though a liner lock was a close second. I understand how both stay open when in use, and how you close them as well. My question is this: When you close the knife, does it stay closed via friction alone, or is there a mechanism that helps keep it closed that I'm ignorant about? (Although, technically any such mechanism would do so with friction :P ) I think with a liner lock the spring presses up against the blade to help keep it closed. At least, that's how it appears to be on my current knife,
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