I'm working on a belt buckle, and am having second thoughts about the finish.  I was going to paint it, which I've done on belt buckles in the past, but paint chips over time and I'd like something more long-lasting that won't rub off easily on clothes.  My next idea was a beeswax and linseed oil finish, coated with paste wax and dried.  I've used this on some other pieces and it seems like it would work but I'd be interested in other opinions. 

Can you forge it from stainless?

clear lacquer? 

Easiest way is to use a paint that will not chip.  Thin coats of fabric paints work pretty well.  The same flex that enables it to survive multiple washings on fabric protects it from chipping.  I often use Tulip brand "Slick".   As with most coatings several thin coats will usually get the best results.  I often use multiple colors to get complex stoney or woody looking finishes.  This is an example that I have done on a Bubba Mug for a christmas present.  The texture is a burlap overlay with about a dozen coats to get to this point (finished... I think)!

The kind of heavy wear that the buckle's "tongue" or "hook" or "prong" gets will wear off any coating but also keep it clean and rust free.

Thanks for the suggestions.  Stainless would certainly work, and the finish on that mug is great.

Fabric paint eh? Think I'm going to be checking it out. Where's a guy find it?

 

I was going to suggest powder coating steel or forging from copper/brass and enameling it.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

You can give it a brass/golden look by brushing it with a brass brush while it's black hot.  The brass transfers from the brush to the steel.

You can give it a brass/golden look by brushing it with a brass brush while it's black hot.  The brass transfers from the brush to the steel.

 

I suggested that but the customer didn't care for that finish, he wanted something rougher and black.

Hey Nick,

 

You were going to go with linseed and beeswax. If you want black and rough then use some old dirty beeswax and get the metal too hot so it boils the beeswax to smoke. I keep doing this until it cools enough to quit burning the wax. Usually goes really black and durable. I get my wax from the dregs of bee keeper wax so it's already darker than most. The iron doesn't care if a couple of dead bees, woody debris and other things are in there. 

A wax finish will probably do well.  If the belt is used regularly the continued handling will probably deposit enough oils and rubbing to keep the rust away.

Frosty the hobby stores have fabric paints and even Walmart in their crafts/fabrics section.  Fabric stores are likely to carry some and art suppliers have it.  It will be available from a hundred sources online as well.  

I have lately been using the fabric paints to coat the bead heads on my fishing flies and as a convenient head cement too!  I thought I was the first to discover this but I have seen these paints on the desks of some fly shops lately... so the word is getting out!  The rubbery flex and deep penetration of these paints can create a nearly indestructible fly!  I don't consider my flies well designed unless they can be fished all day without problems!  

When you sink to the level of painting your steelhead flies with Walmart glow in the dark puffy paint then you have a problem. BFN, I think you're on your way. Flash on your camera works really good for charging the glow in the paint.  

I like the hobby and craft stores for supplies much better than the fly shops. Oh the portions!

 

Belt buckle. I put it in there. Wax. argh. Sorry Nick.

Frosty the hobby stores have fabric paints and even Walmart in their crafts/fabrics section.  Fabric stores are likely to carry some and art suppliers have it.  It will be available from a hundred sources online as well.  

 

Cool thanks, here on the last frontier anything exotic is a loooooong way away. We've got Wally World and fabric shops but I haven't seen a hobby shop in a couple years. Can't even find a Revell model. <sigh>

 

Frosty The Lucky.

linseed,turps, and beeswax. great for buckles. as it wears, or is worn, it will develop a hightlighted edges etc and improve w/ time.

for the brass brush, I brush it on hot first, then hot oil it. finally buff it w/ beeswax or pastewax cold. this final step adds subtle bright highlights. the brass is muted by the hot oil and are the "lowlights" the hot oil is the primary color. overall it has a deep darkrich burnished bronze look. try it on a sample and show your client.